Author Topic: DK2 Restoration? err... Project? - This machine has been Sold! (Read 17279 times)

RetroACTIVE · « **on:** August 18, 2008, 05:00:19 pm »

I've begun restoration of a Nintendo (Popeye converted to a Vs.) to a Donkey Kong 2. Like I said... not sure if this is a restore or project thread... either way... it will have original DK boardset + wiring + power supply.

As you can see, I've dismantled the cabinet as best I could without damaging it. I didn't have to pry anything apart hardly at all since all of the glue holding the blocks has given out...

These first few pics represent 2 days of bondo and primer primer work... plus a little woodworking as I had to re-fab the base.

Anyhoo... it begins.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #1 on:** August 18, 2008, 05:01:01 pm »

more pics

WunderCade · « **Reply #2 on:** August 18, 2008, 06:57:33 pm »

Given that it's part of the Donkey Kong legacy, I think you're in the right place.

Can't wait to see it.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #3 on:** September 22, 2008, 06:05:58 pm »

Ok... got the blue applied... I used Sherwin Williams industrial marine grade enamel... WHAT A PAIN!

Rustoleum... believe it or not a much better paint for this app. It thins better and it spreads better... The only thing that would work for a thinner with this paint was 100% mineral spirits... any other thinner goobered up the finish!

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #4 on:** September 22, 2008, 06:06:52 pm »

Here are a couple more pics of the other panels

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #5 on:** September 24, 2008, 04:51:52 pm »

Here are the Sherwin Williams codes for Sapphire Sparkle. The industrial enamel is labeled "gloss" finish but the paint is really more like satin-semi.

audiomidiman · « **Reply #6 on:** September 26, 2008, 04:18:21 pm »

Looking good. Just wondering why you went with marine finish? Is gloss too glossy? My Sherwin Williams couldn't mix the Sapphire Sparkle for some reason. They said it would be to bright so I went to the independent Pratt and Lambert that my "normal" hardware/paint store (where I buy all my Valspar laytex) sent me. He knew how to mix it and it's about 98%-99% the same as the flat Behr paint swatch. Just wonder if they could of mixed it using a different finish like I suggested.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #7 on:** September 26, 2008, 07:01:26 pm »

Quote from: audiomidiman on September 26, 2008, 04:18:21 pm

Looking good. Just wondering why you went with marine finish? Is gloss too glossy? My Sherwin Williams couldn't mix the Sapphire Sparkle for some reason. They said it would be to bright so I went to the independent Pratt and Lambert that my "normal" hardware/paint store (where I buy all my Valspar laytex) sent me. He knew how to mix it and it's about 98%-99% the same as the flat Behr paint swatch. Just wonder if they could of mixed it using a different finish like I suggested.

The SW guy said that the marine enamel was the only oil based that the sapphire sparkle would be able to be properly matched. The paint is spec'd as gloss but its not at all glossy, more of a satin finish.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #8 on:** September 29, 2008, 06:06:39 pm »

Putting it back together a little bit at a time... ( finding the time is the real issue here

)

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #9 on:** September 29, 2008, 06:08:31 pm »

I chose to re-fab the ledger... it had gotten wet and shrunk up a bit.. pulling from the edges... I will be laminating it with the left over black laminate from my MAME cab project (eons ago as it seems).

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #10 on:** December 31, 2008, 01:27:20 pm »

Ok... I've been able to free up some time for my own projects over the past few days... made some good progress on this fellow... About 3 weeks ago I received my first batch of artwork from ThisOldGame... Included in the package was the CPO (w/instruction card), Marqee, and coin labels.

Here is the overall look... as you can see I've used a 19" plastic bezel trimmed to fit, I will add a paper flap on the back to connect to the roof of the cab so to blacken the whole interior... (BTW: It looks like there is a purity issue with the monitor... there isn't that's just the way the pic came out)

I'm still waiting for the bezel and side art... but its playable and really really fun!

Back side:

I've not finished fixing the rear door panel... it has some crunchy edges... I will bondo it up and re-rabbet the end... the repaint it.

Control Panel:

This thing kicks but, I'm wicked pleased with the quality of the CPO... I rebuilt the panel using a MikesArcade repro stick and original nintendo (jump) button... the P1 and P2 are not Nintendo sized but look good just the same and do not detract from game play as they are not used!

Monitor:

I chose to use a new D7700 tube and chassis, fit to the Sanyo frame... (Not to worry no Sanyo monitor was harmed in the making of this

). It looks great! plus it has the remote control board which is handy for making adjustments in FRONT! I used Markvp's old technique for fitting the tube in the chassis... also it needed to be de-gaused to fix the purity issues as a result of flipping it on its side.

Power Supply:

I used the original power supply and wiring harness... notice I painted the inside of the whole thing purple gloss paint... It makes it nice for keeping it clean and this cab had a bit of water damage so I really wanted to clean, prime and seal with a new coat of paint. So I painted just about every piece of bare wood in it.

PCB:

Not much to say... your basic 2 board set w/Braze kit upgraded to DK2

Paint/Finish:

This paint was a total pain in the rear to work with... but in the end it really really looks solid. The pics make it look a lot brighter than it really is.

Whats left:

Side art
Front Bezel
Coin Door refinish (On the fence whether to powder coat or just paint it...)
Fix/Paint rear door
Install wheels.

I couldn't be happier with the way this has turned out...

TheShanMan · « **Reply #11 on:** December 31, 2008, 02:58:45 pm »

Looks awesome Jim!!! I can't wait to get a DK, and I will definitely be getting DK2 roms. I played a couple of games at FrizzleFried's house last month and that was enough to convince me to get it.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #12 on:** December 31, 2008, 06:02:43 pm »

Very nice !

BrentRadio · « **Reply #13 on:** January 01, 2009, 12:54:17 am »

That will be the nicest DK2 cabs in the world right there.

Great job!

Get those original start buttons too!

TheShanMan · « **Reply #14 on:** January 01, 2009, 08:44:18 pm »

Jim, the more I think about your project and your pictures of it, the more I feel inspired to eventually do one too! Not sure if I'd have both a DK and a DK2. Maybe if I end up getting a DK cab that's not in great shape, I'll restore it as a DK2 cab and have that as my only DK. And if I end up getting a nice condition DK then I'd have to later get another cab to convert to DK2. It would be kinda cool to have DK and DK2 side by side.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #15 on:** January 01, 2009, 09:12:22 pm »

Quote from: TheShanMan on January 01, 2009, 08:44:18 pm

Jim, the more I think about your project and your pictures of it, the more I feel inspired to eventually do one too! Not sure if I'd have both a DK and a DK2. Maybe if I end up getting a DK cab that's not in great shape, I'll restore it as a DK2 cab and have that as my only DK. And if I end up getting a nice condition DK then I'd have to later get another cab to convert to DK2. It would be kinda cool to have DK and DK2 side by side.

I thought that too.. I have a DK on it's back in my garage in the beginnings of a restore. Probably going to sell it cause of space issues. Besides I can play both DK and DK2 in the DK2 cab... so it suits my space requrements.

Level42 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 02, 2009, 02:36:18 am »

This is one freaking sweet restore/project. !

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #17 on:** January 02, 2009, 12:54:59 pm »

Thanks for all the compliments!

I've decided to paint the coin door. If I don't like it I can always have it blasted and powder coated another day. I have a local powder coating shop so it's no biggie.

I also am going to use fishpaper for the paper flap to be attached to the bezel and cab top. It's tougher than poster paper and I will be able to paint it well.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #18 on:** January 10, 2009, 08:45:58 am »

I've cleaned up painted and put new mechs in the coin door

Here is the face of it... Sorry about the lighting... I really have crappy lighting in my basement and the flash really kills the pic..

I purchased brand new coin mechs... (expensive... but they look great)

Here is a pic of the front with the coin mechs installed

Inside

Wiring is next...

audiomidiman · « **Reply #19 on:** January 10, 2009, 09:22:00 am »

Very nice. Those mechs look awesome.

TheShanMan · « **Reply #20 on:** January 10, 2009, 11:17:23 am »

Nice! Yeah, this is a project where you wouldn't want to go with used mechs unless they were in immaculate shape or had no other alternative.

Bender · « **Reply #21 on:** January 13, 2009, 12:24:38 am »

Great restoration/creation!

I'm Lovin' DKII by the way, hard but fun!

those coin mechs are awesome!
Where did you find them?

NEED... TO... HAVE...!

for my DK/DKII cab!

Level42 · « **Reply #22 on:** January 13, 2009, 01:38:41 am »

Gotta love it when a product still is 100% the same as 28 year ago

Those are the very mechs that Nintendo installed originally. My RS/MB has the same mech and apart from the front plate, it almost looked like new inside still. The basis is all aluminum so no rust

IIRC some people ordered it directly from the US office of Asahi Seiko:
http://www.asahiseikousa.com/html/roll_downkwm740.html

Expect to pay almost 40 bucks per unit !

Blanka · « **Reply #23 on:** January 13, 2009, 03:38:26 am »

It's not complete the same, this one is brushed stainless instead of aluminium, but for 17,95 euro a good deal too at Jan's arcadeshop:

javeryh · « **Reply #24 on:** January 13, 2009, 05:06:48 pm »

Wow those coin mechs are awesome looking. I might have to try and order some (even at $40) once I finish my DK restoration...

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #25 on:** January 13, 2009, 07:15:46 pm »

They are real pleasant over at AsahiSeiko...easy to deal with. They do also sell replacement parts, faceplates, coin catchers, etc! These mechs have 12VDC lockout coils I plan on hooking up as well to a secondary 12VDC power supply.. I know it's not stock but will be cool just the same.

I've got the door wired now...I rewound the coin counter back to zero, put a credit into each mech and now my counter is at a whopping 2! I love the sound of the counter...it adds a real kick when a coin is dropped.

Level42 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 17, 2009, 02:45:35 am »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on January 13, 2009, 07:15:46 pm

They are real pleasant over at AsahiSeiko...easy to deal with. They do also sell replacement parts, faceplates, coin catchers, etc!

What ? Great ! I need a coin catcher (missing) and a new front plate would be great too.Do they have a price list or something ? If so it might be handy to attach here.

Blanka: Yeah I saw that one before and e-mailed to ask about about the size of the front-plate.
I know these mechs come in different sized front-plates. Never got a reaply.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #27 on:** January 17, 2009, 12:35:19 pm »

Mech: KWM-10013, $38.00 ea
Faceplate: KWM-3002-14, $4.00 ea
Return Cup (large): KWM-3034-10, $4.40 ea

The return cup is not the U shaped catcher that comes stock with the mech, it's the original enclosed catcher...

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #28 on:** January 17, 2009, 10:44:37 pm »

Finally got the coin door rewired.... I added a 12VDC power supply to power the lockout coils... it works on 100-240VAC so I could plug it into the extra ac outlet of the power supply...

Coin Door:

AC-DC 12V power supply... I picked it up at coolerguys.com it has a standard PC type molex connector on it... I made my own cable and that was all she wrote... works fantastic... Its a 2 Amp supply... I checked each lockout coil uses about 110 mA ... so its more than capable of handling the two coils...

I will be working the back panel next... I've repaired the loose laminate... I will have to bondo the corners... its a pain cause its cold out now so I can't really work in the garage... and bondo is too fumy for the basement...

audiomidiman · « **Reply #29 on:** January 17, 2009, 11:13:04 pm »

Very nice. Almost looks like mine.

Can you please let me know how you reset the coin counter?

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #30 on:** January 17, 2009, 11:43:58 pm »

Quote from: audiomidiman on January 17, 2009, 11:13:04 pm

Very nice. Almost looks like mine.

Can you please let me know how you reset the coin counter?

I took the cover off of it, removed the spring and the advance lever thingie.... Then I hooked a rubber wheel up to my dremel, ran the dremel at lowspeed with the wheel pressed up against the least significant digit and ran the thing back.

Worked like a champ! I made the rubber wheel out of hot melt glue...it was soft enough so that it did not burn or screw up the plastic on the counter wheel.

rockin_rick · « **Reply #31 on:** January 18, 2009, 12:25:07 am »

Very nice. I've ordered the DK2 kit also, but don't have a cab to put it into. I have a DK but don't want to convert it as it's not too bad...

Perhaps you are aware, but prok http://www.gamestencils.com has a set (clear top and black 'inner') of joystick dust washers for sale now. Since it looks like you don't have either... (me neither)

Rick

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #32 on:** January 18, 2009, 09:17:02 am »

Quote from: rockin_rick on January 18, 2009, 12:25:07 am

Perhaps you are aware, but prok http://www.gamestencils.com has a set (clear top and black 'inner') of joystick dust washers for sale now. Since it looks like you don't have either... (me neither)

Rick

Oh yeah... I'm going to pick one up

Level42 · « **Reply #33 on:** January 18, 2009, 03:16:43 pm »

Quote from: RetroACTIVE on January 17, 2009, 12:35:19 pm

Mech: KWM-10013, $38.00 ea
Faceplate: KWM-3002-14, $4.00 ea
Return Cup (large): KWM-3034-10, $4.40 ea

The return cup is not the U shaped catcher that comes stock with the mech, it's the original enclosed catcher...

Thanks, so does that mean they don't have the U-shaped coin catcher ? Seems a bit strange as they are still on the complete coin mechs ?

Anyway, I'll drop them a mail, I just discovered that my Meteor has Asahi Seiko coin-mechs too and there's a (big) coin-catcher missing there too.....

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #34 on:** January 18, 2009, 04:24:10 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on January 18, 2009, 03:16:43 pm

Thanks, so does that mean they don't have the U-shaped coin catcher ? Seems a bit strange as they are still on the complete coin mechs ?

Anyway, I'll drop them a mail, I just discovered that my Meteor has Asahi Seiko coin-mechs too and there's a (big) coin-catcher missing there too.....

Nope... They have them both... I have another restore where I needed the large catcher and had no need to purchase the U version seperately... hence I don't have the part number. They did have it at the time I asked.

audiomidiman · « **Reply #35 on:** January 18, 2009, 04:25:57 pm »

Quote from: Bender on January 13, 2009, 12:24:38 am

Great restoration/creation!

I'm Lovin' DKII by the way, hard but fun!

those coin mechs are awesome!
Where did you find them?

NEED... TO... HAVE...!

for my DK/DKII cab!

I sand blasted then painted the faces w/ Metallic Silver and clear coat and they look nice. Not brushed I know but very nice. Does anyone know "IF" they sell the non "U" version that is on my DK Jr.? I know these were used for years.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #36 on:** January 18, 2009, 04:30:32 pm »

Not sure, you may have to buy the U version, then purchase the large catchers separately and swap them out yourself.

WunderCade · « **Reply #37 on:** January 18, 2009, 04:32:34 pm »

By "non-u" are referring to the old school ones in the pick we have fondly come to refer to as "the ear" thingy.

RetroACTIVE · « **Reply #38 on:** January 18, 2009, 04:57:44 pm »

Quote from: WunderCade on January 18, 2009, 04:32:34 pm

By "non-u" are referring to the old school ones in the pick we have fondly come to refer to as "the ear" thingy.

Ear thingy is a perfect description! This is what the manufacturer refers to as the "Large Return Cup".

Wade · « **Reply #39 on:** January 19, 2009, 12:05:09 pm »

FWIW, Steve's Pinball Resource sells the whole NOS mech for the DK JR lever style for $10 in a whole bunch of token sizes. I was going to buy a set, but even at $10 I passed after repainting my front plates (ended up looking like new anyway). Figured someone might want these for a similar project.

Wade


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