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Author Topic: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!  (Read 61151 times)

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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #80 on: September 24, 2008, 03:25:38 pm »
Monitor:

I made a slight mistake in my earlier posting (it's fixed now).  This is not the Tri Mode monitor from Happ.

The monitor that I chose is the MakVision 29" (27") High Resolution Monitor from Happ.

http://www.happ.com/monitors/49271700.htm

I realized my mistake when someone had asked me (in a PM) about if the monitor remembers geometry settings between resolutions.

Well... the answer is yes, it does.  I switched to 1024x768 and made some changes in vertical size.  Switched to 800x600 and changed the horizontal size.  Switched back to 1024x768 and the previous settings were still intact.

So far, I really like the monitor.  It looks great through the smoked glass:



Here are some shots of the On-Screen-Display settings that can be adjusted:









No... it doesn't have all that moire waviness when you see it in person.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2008, 12:41:21 pm by paulscade »
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #81 on: September 28, 2008, 08:44:11 am »
I started work on the control panel top.

I took my CP Overlay to the garage (hard smooth concrete floor) and placed it out on a large sheet of paper.  Using the Lexan top as a pattern, I cut around the outer edges with a scalpel.  I wanted something real sharp.



Once I had the outside of the overlay cut, I sandwiched it between the CP MDF top and the Lexan and clamped to insure that it wouldn't move as I cutout all the holes.  I began with all the button holes... those would allow for the most mistakes because the buttons all have bezels.... I would have to be well practiced by the time I got to the joystick and trackball holes.



Here's the cutout CPO.

« Last Edit: September 28, 2008, 09:19:28 am by paulscade »
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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #82 on: September 28, 2008, 09:01:19 am »
Time to mount some controls.

For strength, I wanted everything to have screws that went completely through the panel with a washer and nut on the reverse side.  I'm not sure if anyone has tried wood screws... but given the amount of pushing and pulling on the controls, I wouldn't recommend it.

In my control countersinking, I allowed for extra depth for screw heads.  It might sound odd but I couldn't find the right flat head screws at Home Depot... so I used round head screws and filed off the tops a bit.



I found out that the bat tops of the joysticks don't fit through 1.125" holes so I had to take the joysticks apart.  I would have had to take them apart anyway because:

- I need to change the spring on the U360
- the bases of the Magsticks didn't "nicely" fit through the cutout that I made (by design) due to the way that the microswitches are attached.



For the Magsticks, I found that it was easier to first mount the top plate on the control panel... then attach the guts later.



The U360 was easy as it has a removable bat handle... so it just fit into the hole that I cutout.

The trackball mounted with ease as I used a mounting plate.

« Last Edit: September 28, 2008, 03:22:54 pm by paulscade »
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #83 on: September 28, 2008, 09:06:58 am »
Now let me point out a rookie mistake....

Take a look at the U360 in the photo above (center stick).  Do you see anything wrong?

Before I mounted it, I plugged it in to the computer to check for orientation... woops.  It's not a square mount... and I managed to mount it 90 degrees rotated.  I know that I checked this when I first got the stick... but it must have been erased from memory when I marked-up and cut the panel.

Good thing that this stick is programmable.
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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #84 on: September 28, 2008, 09:17:51 am »
All the controls fit perfectly.   :applaud:
The wood panel, the cutout Lexan, the CPO all fit just like they are supposed to fit.

I was a little concerned about the lineup of the trackball... because it had the "football" hole in the wood but the Lexan had a 3" hole (concerned about the alignment of the 3" hole as compaired with all other holes).

I haven't mounted the spinner yet... I'll do that today.

Including the time I spent on putting a 3rd coat of paint on the CP box, it took me 7 hours to cut the CPO, drill, file (screws), and mount the controls.

I'm 117 hours into the project at this point.

Here's the bottom of the panel:



... and a "sneak peek" at the top with part of the Lexan protective coating missing:

 

(I'm not ready for a full unveiling just yet)  :)
« Last Edit: September 28, 2008, 09:39:37 am by paulscade »
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #85 on: September 28, 2008, 09:35:07 am »
A few things that I wanted to mention...

U360:
I fully agree with the recommendations of going with the harder spring for this stick.  It really does feel much better.  With most everyone recommending this upgrade, this stick should really be sold with the heavier spring... and have the light spring as the option (but I suppose that wouldn't bring the vendor an extra 8 bucks.  ;) )

The dust washer on the U360 needed to be filed out a bit in the center hole.  I'm not using a restricter... and because of the amount of throw on this stick, the dust washer wanted to "tilt" a little when the stick is fully pressed to one side.  It tilted instead of sliding around because of the thickness of the washer and the tight tolerance of the center hole.  I couldn't have this happening as my dust washers are under the CPO.  Filing out the center hole fixed the problem.
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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #86 on: September 28, 2008, 12:57:42 pm »
nice work and tutorial, i also have the u360 and ordered extra stiff springs and circular restrictor plates.

in a week of 2/3 i will install the cp and your guide made me think of a few things  :D

your almost there , keep it up !

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #87 on: September 28, 2008, 01:58:22 pm »
I'm really REALLY interested in hearing your opinion of the Mag-Stick Plus. Its on the top of my list for my cab. Its simplicity  and versatility are what i'm impressed by, however i've found few reviews on them as those were not all positive.  Your project looks great by the way.

Bill

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #88 on: September 28, 2008, 04:03:45 pm »
Paul,

 The CP is looking great and excellent detail in the documentation of the process. This is why I have found your thread one of the most helpful on the board. 

 It is looking great!

Kevin

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #89 on: September 29, 2008, 02:07:25 pm »
Thats some nice work.
“Woe be unto him who opens one of the seven gateways to hell, because through that gateway evil will invade the world."

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #90 on: October 08, 2008, 04:35:11 pm »
After spending 7 hours last Sunday: Control Panel Wiring Complete.

It wasn't difficult... but my hand was killing me from all the crimping.

I started by daisy chaining the grounds.  I decided to create two ground loops... one for the left side of the panel and one for the right side.  For no particular reason other than it made the wiring a little neater.

Here's shot of some of the daisy chaining.



I stripped each wire end about 3/16" before placing it in the connector for crimping.  I found that stripping about 1/4" made it easier when trying to place two wires into one quick disconnect (for the ground chain).

I couldn't find any wire at Lowes or Home Depot.  They only had the bigger stuff... for home electrical wiring... and some for alarm wiring.

I was looking for (and found) 20AWG, stranded wire.... at, where else,... my local Radio Shack.  I picked up three rolls in a pack (they call it "hook-up wire"): Red, Green, and Black.... 20 feet each.  It was just enough for the job.  I didn't have much left over.

For quick disconnects... I found that the best deals could be had on e-Bay.  I purchased both .187 (for the button microswitches) and .250 (for the Magstik microswitches).

Me, hard at work:


I'll tell you what... my hat's off to you guys that have those showcase panels... it's really difficult to make the wiring look really good.  I suppose part of the good looks comes from pre-planning... doing things like laying out controls so that wire runs can have perfectly horizontal or vertical runs.

No matter, I'm happy with the way that it turned out:
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #91 on: October 08, 2008, 08:36:33 pm »
Paul,

 Looks fantastic...   I was just at Radio Shack tonight and spotted the same wire... lol  I am hoping to find the quick connects locally but not having much luck.  The package never seems to use the size .187

 Again, looks great... look forward to seeing some more.

Kevin

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #92 on: October 09, 2008, 08:14:56 am »
My U360 Experience:

When I realized that I had mounted the U360 "wrong", I didn't think it would be much of a problem as the joystick is programmable.

I spent about 30 minutes yesterday reprogramming all the stock maps to account for my mistake.

Remember, I mounted the U360 90 degrees rotated counterclockwise.   :o

So my thinking as I'm programming went something like this:

"OK... let me see... when I push the stick to the top right... I'm actually pushing it to the bottom right... so... in the map... I need to make anything in the bottom right send the signals for top right.... etc. etc."

When I was done, the maps were confusing but functional.

UNTIL... I got the the analog setting.  You can't program the analog portion... so I was starting to feel the pain of the incorrectly mounted stick.

I was thinking... maybe there's a custom driver that I can install (ouch)... or maybe there's a firmware hack that I can get from Andy to make this work.  I wasn't about to remount the stick.

I wrote Andy at Ultimarc (and he promptly responded with the answer).... it was staring me in the face all along....

Unscrew the 4 screws on the bottom of the U360, remove and rotate the board 90 degrees, reattach the board.  Done.  Such a simple fix to my rotated mounting problem.... it looks like it wasn't actually a problem at all.

I reloaded all the maps that I had modified back from the original install... and everything was normal.

Sometimes, it's the simple things that you overlook!   :-\
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #93 on: October 09, 2008, 11:10:06 am »
Is there a "TOP" marked on the U360's someplace?  Did you just miss it in your anxiousness to get the joysticks mounted?

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #94 on: October 09, 2008, 11:33:55 am »
Very very nice.  I love wiring a control panel.  It is so relaxing for some reason to just sit there and not have to use any power tools.  Looking good!   :cheers:

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #95 on: October 09, 2008, 12:13:39 pm »
Just unscrew the pcb from the bottom of the u360 and rotate it so the up indicator is pointing up.
DOC! YOU HAVE A TABLE OVER THERE WITH A SIGN THAT SAYS, "LASER DEATH RAY BARGAIN BIN!"

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #96 on: October 09, 2008, 04:02:40 pm »
I didn't see anything on the U360 indicating "This Way UP".  Before I designed/cut-out the panel, I did plug in the stick to see which way was up but it happened over time (i.e. I received/checked the sticks some time ago... and more recently worked on the panel).

I did take the stick apart... and I used the mounting plate to trace out the shape onto the panel for routing.

I suppose that I just got caught up in the moment.

[recently acquired knowledge]
This stick is really versatile.... it doesn't matter which way that you mount it because you can adjust for mounting by rotating the PCB at the bottom of the stick.

javeryh: re: relaxing
Yea... I really do enjoy working on this project.  Unfortunately, most of the work was done in the garage... in Florida.... in the Summertime.   :o  I'm not complaining... but I must admit... now that it's all "inside work"... it's been much more relaxing.
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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #97 on: October 11, 2008, 12:09:09 am »
Looking Good.   It's fun isn't it?

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #98 on: October 11, 2008, 05:31:23 am »
The wiring looks pretty good to me.  Looks like its gonna be a smart machine  ;)
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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #99 on: October 11, 2008, 02:10:40 pm »
Paul, I wanted to give you a big thanks for doing such an incredible job documenting the build. I started my project just a little after you, and your project has certainly made my job a whole lot easier. Your cabinet looks great!

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #100 on: October 12, 2008, 09:58:15 am »
Tkx! All for the continued encouragement.

Groovy Game Gear Trackball (Electric Ice):

It's nice that they provide a lighting module but it would have been nicer if they provided a way to turn it on.

The GGG trackball [USB] interface connects to the Betson Imperial trackball... it's sold as one unit from GGG called the Electric Ice Trackball.  Also included is a lighting module that's mounted to the center/bottom of the trackball housing.  The lighting module has a small ribbon cable attached that provides a way to light the LED's (4 wires: 5v, Red, Green, Blue).  For a few bucks more... they could have hooked up the 5v to the USB interface on the trackball and provided a switch to light the individual LED's.... then it would be a complete unit... with nothing else needed to provide a working, lighted trackball.

I know, it might be expected that you would hook this to a LED Wiz or similar.  But I don't want a LED Wiz... I just want a lighted trackball.   :hissy:

So... I built my own on/off switch / dimmer for the trackball LEDs.

This lets me:
1) completely switch off the LED's
2) select any/all of the three colors available
3) dim the LED's

Here's what it looks like connected:



and the electrical diagram is below (the 5th switch is unused).  Also note that the series resistor for the LED's is not shown in the diagram... they are part of the GGG LED board.

« Last Edit: November 05, 2008, 03:03:04 pm by paulscade »
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #101 on: October 12, 2008, 10:16:15 am »
My control panel is done.

I'll have to get some better pictures (because taking photos of highly reflective control panel top is difficult).... but I wanted to share it with everyone....

Tada....



No bevel around the trackball hole (was it mountain that did that?)... but it fits nicely:



Another shot of the final wiring... with the USB cables layed in and the LED control mounted:



It opens nice and wide... a little too wide actually... the top is somewhat heavy and there's a lot of pressure on the hinges when fully opened.  I'm probably going to add a small chain to limit the opening and provide some support:

... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #102 on: October 12, 2008, 10:37:29 am »
I also spent some time wiring the coin door yesterday.

It required 4 wires: a common ground, +12v (for the reject button lights), and 2 wires for the coin switch contacts.

I wired the ground just like the control panel... daisy chained from the common contacts on the 2 coin switches to one each of the contacts on the light bulbs.

I daisy chained the 12v to the other contact on the bulbs.

The two coin switch contacts are independent wires... that will run to the control panel (I need to find a nice, 2 contact, quick disconnect before I hook up the coin switches).

The 4 wires that run into the cabinet need to be flexible as the door needs to open and close.  I attached the wires at the the top of the coin door leading into the cab...  and the wires are attached  to the cab at the bottom once inside.  This leaves a nice length of wire for flexibility.

Light bulbs:



Coin Switch:



Door:



I'm now up to 132 hours of build time on this project that I started back in March.
« Last Edit: October 13, 2008, 02:46:29 pm by paulscade »
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #103 on: October 20, 2008, 06:18:22 pm »
I mounted an arcade button to the side of the cabinet.  I picked Black so it would blend in (and it does):
 

 
This button is wired to the terminal block on the inside of the cabinet (more on that below).
 

 
The PC is plugged into the "MASTER" outlet of a Philips smartstrip.
The monitor and audio amplifier are plugged into the controlled outlets.
 
I found a nice empty spot on the PC case and I mounted one of these:
 

 
The "RST" is tapped into the momentary on power switch on the front of the PC case.  I traced the wires from the switch to a couple of connections on the motherboard... they were marked "reset".  :)  Once I verified that it was really the reset switch, I cut the wire and tapped in.
 
The 12v comes from one of peripheral power connectors.
 
With the PC inside the cabinet, I use a "patch cord" to connect these connections to the terminal block that I had installed in the cabinet.
 
My connections from the PC to the cabinet:

- reset switch to terminal block
- 12V to terminal block (for marquee and coin door lighting and for rear fan)
- audio out to amplifier to terminal block (for left and right speakers)
- USB to: U360, Electric Ice Trackball, and TurboTwist2 Spinner
- PS2 to Keywiz40
- [USB keyboard and PS2 mouse]
 
One push of the button on the side of the cabinet and it all comes to life.... another push and it all shuts down.
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #104 on: October 25, 2008, 12:00:38 pm »
I have a huge problem....

...and I knew that it was coming because I've read about this phonemenon on this board before....

My cabinet is playable.   ;D

So now, I spend all my free time playing games and not finishing up.

I have only a few things left to do before I can officially call it complete:

- side art
- marquee
- coin switch hookup (to Keywiz)

The plus... I'm on vacation this week... so I plan on using my [cough, cough] creative talents and coming up with something for the marquee and sides.

The coin switches are easy... I just need to find a 2 position connector so it can be easily disconnected.
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #105 on: October 25, 2008, 04:30:08 pm »
you bad man , dont give it up !

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #106 on: October 26, 2008, 01:42:13 am »
Lol, I know that problem...the playing makes work tough but it is so rewarding to have a few games...of course a few usually turns into a few hours...

Love the controller and wiring :)

Last Project



Epyx Tutorials:
Tutorials

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #107 on: October 27, 2008, 01:30:09 pm »
Something to consider when building the UAII…

Placing a large monitor in the UAII cabinet puts the rear of the monitor very close to the outside of the cabinet… so close that the flyback transformer is easily within reach.  It's sort of sticking out there saying "touch me".  :o



The plan for this cabinet (probably most cabinets) is to sit against a wall… but nevertheless, I wanted to protect against accidental “fingerpoken”.

I cut out some triple-corrugated cardboard and slid in the rear of the cabinet… leaving some vent area on the sides.  My monitor runs surprisingly cool.  I was expecting a good amount of heat.  Even after it’s on for a few hours, the fan at the top of the cabinet is still exhausting only slightly warm air.  I don’t expect the cardboard to effect the cooling.


... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #108 on: October 27, 2008, 01:34:01 pm »
Even though it's not finished, the grandkids have had no problem figuring out how it works...

Adam (waiting for me to sit back down and play  :) ):



... and Christopher and Tyler:

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NipRing

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #109 on: October 27, 2008, 11:04:55 pm »
So did you wind up using the Mag Stick Plus joys? If so, how do you like them?

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #110 on: October 28, 2008, 05:13:29 pm »
The MagStik+ Joysticks:

They are OK.  I did read other people's comments/reviews before buying them... and the one thing that I read over and over is the comment about their short throw.  Well.. they have a very short throw.  I measured only 1/4" each side of center.  I really wanted the sticks because of their 4/8 way, change from the top, design.  I figured that I could get use to the short throw.

The sticks are well made and strong.  They look like they could take some abuse.  I've found that they work fine in 4 and 8 way mode but the diagonals are not always so easy to hit and the corners, are not as distinct as I'd like.

While these sticks can be switched from the top of the panel, you can't easily tell if you're in 4 or 8 way mode.  It would be nice if there were some sort of indicator.  If it's before the game starts, I find myself listening for the difference in the clicking sound (as both switches are depressed in the diagonals) to tell when it's in 8 way mode.

I did get use to them pretty quickly.

Compared to the U360... I actually like the MagStiks more.  (I have the 360 w/hard spring and no restrictor).  I might add the circular restrictor [that I've heard so much about] and that may change my comment.  You can't really beat the U360 for versatility... it's really a different stick.  It's nice to have both in the panel.

I've also heard others comment about the MagStik microswitch clicking.  Yes, they click but I don't see it as a distraction... the click provides a bit of tactile feedback so I see it as a positive attribute.

Would I buy them again... yes.
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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #111 on: October 28, 2008, 05:20:41 pm »
Excellent work all around Paul!

 :applaud:

Keep it up!!!!
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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #112 on: October 28, 2008, 07:15:06 pm »
Very nice work, Paul.

Have you tried a 49 way joystick? If so, could you comment on how the U360 compares to the Magsticks?

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #113 on: October 30, 2008, 06:31:26 pm »
Hey Benevolance.. I've never used a 49-way stick so I can't comment.  ... see above... I thought that I did compare the MagStik to the U360.

If I had to add something, it would be to say that the U360 is also a nice stick.  It's lighter than the MagStik and it seems more delicate.... even though I don't think that you could easily break a U360.

U360:
There are 4 metal supports extending downward from the base of the stick.  These supports hold the electronics and sensor in place.  On my stick, they look to be bent a little... almost like if you placed the stick on a hard surface and put a lot of pressure downward/diagonal on it... all 4 supports are bent equally.  I wasn't sure if that was on purpose (some sort of "adjustment"), by design, or by accident (shipping?).  I left it alone.  The stick does seem to be just a little off center.... and even though there's another thread in the main forum about not using Windows calibration to adjust for it (vs changing the dead zone in the maps)... I used Windows calibration anyway and it seems to be working fine.

Although I can't say for sure (because I don't have one)... I think that I'd probably agree with what most people are saying about using the circular restrictor.  Without the restrictor, there is quite a bit of throw on the U360... but it does feel nice and smooth through the entire movement.
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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #114 on: October 30, 2008, 09:12:36 pm »
That was a retarded typo on my part. I meant to ask how the 49-way compares to the Magsticks...but since you haven't tried the 49-way, that answered my question. :D

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #115 on: November 01, 2008, 04:33:18 am »
I have been reading these boards for months now, waiting for my stuff to arrive, I have had alot of time to think of ideas for my daughter's cabinet, I thought I'd share one of them, since you posed a question I had thought of as well.
     "While these sticks can be switched from the top of the panel, you can't easily tell if you're in 4 or 8 way mode.  It would be nice if there were some sort of indicator. "

Have you thought about using another microswitch mounted at the end of the white levers path on the magic stiks.  ie. when it's set to 4-way light up an 8-seg led display reading "4" and "8" when the white lever moves (by changing the mode) and presses the microswitch.

My idea was to use 8 3-way leds embedded under the cpo around each joystick, and a microswitch controlled by that white lever, and have the control.ini via ledwiz and that switch light the 8 leds red or green, depending on whether or not it's in the correct mode for the current game. 


I have a question, did you bondo over the plates and trackball mount before putting the overlay down?  I can't seem to figure it out from the pictures. Or did you have your artwork printed backward on the back of a clear, self adhering vinyl, and stick it to your lexan?


BTW, you have great wood working skills.  :applaud:

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #116 on: November 01, 2008, 10:27:18 am »
Hey MacGyver,

Now that you mention it... I did actually consider a similar addition (albeit yours is more elaborate).  I considered using a microswitch to detect the position of the white lever... but instead of lighting a display with a 4 or 8... I just wanted to light a single LED.  So "LED on" might mean 4-way.  I haven't ruled out the idea... I could even mount the LED under two of the admin buttons (so I don't have to drill into the panel).  It wouldn't require any external controlled (i.e. LedWiz).

Just FYI... they make a number of 7 segment displays that you could use instead of using discrete LED's.  I'm sure that you could find them at DigiKey or some place similar.  I have a few of these "better than 7-segment" displays (attached photo).  They require only 5v.  It's a Hex display so you can light up anything from 0-F.  The segments are not "boxy" so you get a nice round cornered 8.

re: your questions

I routed the trackball plate recess 1/16" deep.  So when the plate was installed, it was flush with the top of the panel... no need for filler.  The recess for the joystick mounting plates was routed 1/8" deep to allow for the mounting screws and because I wanted the dust washers to be under the CPO (I had to allow some clearance for them to move freely).

The Control Panel Overlay is printed on "indoor sign material" from Kinkos.  It's thin and sort of plastic'ie.  There's no adhesive.  It's not printed backwards (i.e. printed normal like any printout).  This CPO is sandwiched between the wood (on the bottom) and the Lexan (on top).  It's all held together by the buttons (as the buttons all go through the panel and are secured with the button-nut on the bottom of the panel).
« Last Edit: November 01, 2008, 10:36:32 am by paulscade »
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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #117 on: November 01, 2008, 12:11:27 pm »
Great job Paul!
 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:

I especially like your wiring job. Very professional. In my own projects, I get in a hurry near the end and wind up with a sloppy wiring job. Seeing your work makes me want to do better next time.

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #118 on: November 04, 2008, 01:47:31 pm »
Tkx! DaOld Man.

Marquee Retainer:

I spent a couple of hours mounting the marquee retainer.  This is the marquee retainer that you can buy from Happ (which I bought through Divemaster).  The specs for this product on the Happ site are nonexistent.  Similar to: it's PVC and 10 feet long.

http://www.happ.com/accessories/49100000.htm

Once I received the retainer, I realized that it was a little wider than I had expected (1.5 inches wide).  The retainer is an extruded J shape.  It's nice and thick PVC so it won't bend easily.  On the side opposite of the J bend, there's a raised line that runs the length of the retainer.  It looks to be a guide for mounting on the edge of the wood.

(difficult to explain) If I had left it stock... it would have allowed the marquee to extend (IMHO) too far above and below the lighted marquee area... and it would have left a wide dark stripe at the top and bottom of the marquee (where it would be blocking the light from behind).

Bottom line... I decided to cut it down.

I considered using a hack saw and a utility knife but this stuff is pretty thick and I wanted a nice straight edge.  This might be a good time to mention how handy routers are...  :)

Here's the marquee retainer before and after (the top is the original retainer):



I drilled a few mounting holes in the retainer (since I would need them anyway) and I used them to secure the retainer to a piece of scrap wood.  I added another piece of wood for the router to slide across.  Using a pattern trace router bit, I trimmed the retainer down to size.  You can see the bits of black plastic "snow" from the first cut:

« Last Edit: November 04, 2008, 02:07:52 pm by paulscade »
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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #119 on: November 04, 2008, 02:04:26 pm »
With trimmed the down marquee retainers in hand, I ran into another problem.... how to attach them to the cabinet.

The bottom retainer would be easy... just screw it into the wood.  On the UAII and probably other cabinet designs, the marquee is recessed.... so there's no way to slide in a marquee once the retainers are attached.... and if I slide in the marquee first, I wouldn't be able to get to the screws.  The top retainer needed to be detachable.  I considered using Velcro but I wanted something more "sturdy".

On the top retainer, I used an aluminum angle iron and mounted the retainer to it.  The angle iron will sit on top of the cabinet and be attached with a couple of screws.... easy on, easy off.

It looks like this:





And the finished retainer mounting looks like this:



.... now... if I only had a marquee to put in it... <that's next>
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...