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Author Topic: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!  (Read 61152 times)

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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #40 on: August 03, 2008, 10:29:08 am »
I didn't think that I'd go for the second coat of primer... but when my wife Debby offered to help, I couldn't refuse.  This coat was much easier to apply.  ;D



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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #41 on: August 08, 2008, 10:03:01 pm »

measured out 1/2 the circumference of the circle that I needed . . .


Math is not my strong suit, so this may just give you a chuckle, but do you mean that you measured out the radius?  I can't figure out how measuring out 1/2 the circumference would be helpful.  I need to cut out an odd-sized circle, though, so I'd like to understand exactly how you did this.  Finding the right sized hole saw is out of the question.
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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #42 on: August 09, 2008, 07:20:11 am »
duh  :dizzy:  ... must have been sleep-posting.
I'll go back and fix it.
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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #43 on: August 12, 2008, 06:32:24 pm »
The Paint Job
-----------------
Over the weekend, I put another 7 hours into the project.  Including my wife's help... it was probably around 11 man/hours.

I sanded down the primer with 120 grit paper.  I put on the first coat of real paint... Let it dry... Sanded it down again... and painted again.

I was only expecting to apply one coat of paint (over the weekend)... but with the assistance... I managed to get two coats done.

The painting is finished.  Final tally: 2 coats of white primer inside and out.  2 coats of semigloss rolled on the outside.

I'm real pleased with the finish.  Next weekend, I'll likely get the T-molding done and start adding parts.

Here's what it looks like after about 80 hours of work:



(In the photo, I haven't pulled off the masking tape yet)
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notanoob81

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #44 on: August 14, 2008, 10:03:06 pm »
Looks great. I'm eager to see your monitor installed  :applaud:



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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #45 on: August 15, 2008, 03:13:06 pm »
Your cab is looking great, don't you just love the UAII cabinet design?  Not as boring as most cabinet designs.

I went with this cabinet as well because I needed a cabinet that I could take apart easily and move.  I ended up using bolts and wing nuts to connect the top part to the base.  This way I can remove the top part, remove TV, remove control panel and I have 4 much easier to manage parts to move.



paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #46 on: August 17, 2008, 07:04:38 pm »
The monitor is coming soon.  I need to get the marquee light [more specifically, the wiring] and the rear fan [again wiring] before I install the monitor.  It'll make life easier if I don't have to reach around a monitor.

Yes, I really like the UAII design.  I'm only about 1 year into this hobby... when I first saw this cabinet design, I knew that it was what I wanted to build.   Unfortunately, I had no idea what it was called... so it took me quite a while to finally find the plans.

Today, I spent a couple of hours on the cabinet.  The keyboard drawer was sticking a bit because the paint built up the already tight tolerances.... nothing that a file and some 60 grit sandpaper could take care of.

I also installed the T-molding.  There were a few areas that gave me a little trouble... it was where the screws pulled the slot together a bit.  I used a piece of 1/16" sheet metal as a chisel and cleaned out the slot.  Other than a few areas, the T-molding was no problem to install using a rubber mallet.

Here's the cabinet:

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Neilyboy

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #47 on: August 18, 2008, 07:37:22 am »
looking very nice man!! very nice.. I am anxious to see this one progress!! I like the color scheme as well.. Good luck with the rest of the project!
Dang every new project I see makes me want to get out in the garage and start/finish mine haha.


Neil

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #48 on: August 25, 2008, 03:51:33 pm »
Now that it's painted, it's time to start adding some mechanical components.

I've mounted the NovaMatrix light and the Sony speakers... and added the associated wiring.  I decided to do my own version of "structured wiring" and wire everything internal to the cabinet to a screw block.  This way, I have a termination point for cabinet internals and I only need to wire "patch cords" from the computer to the wiring block.

The speakers:



The NovaMatrix light from Groovy Game Gear:



Wired up to a screw terminal block near the rear of the cabinet:

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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #49 on: August 25, 2008, 04:02:09 pm »
Ahhh... but that's not all.  I also mounted the fan, coin door, and the monitor.  Everything fit right into place.

The monitor was the first thing that I ordered for this project.  I wanted it first because it was going to determine the width of the cabinet.  I was a little worried that I would get the monitor all mounted and then find out that it didn't work.  That wasn't the case.  It fired up right away and I was impressed with the 1024 x 768 resolution.  Even without the control panel... I couldn't resist playing a few games.

The fan has some blue LED's installed so it puts out a cool blue glow on the back wall:



The coin door:



The first time that this monitor has been turned on (here anyway):




... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #50 on: August 25, 2008, 04:07:51 pm »
I had a little trouble deciding where to mount the controls for the monitor OSD.  I ended up placing it just above the keyboard drawer.  It's really intended to be mounted against some sheet metal... with just the buttons poking through... but this will work fine.



At work, I plotted the control panel layout 1:1.  Here it is sitting on top of the real control panel.  If everything works as planned, I start cutting/routing the panel tomorrow.

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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #51 on: August 25, 2008, 04:13:39 pm »
I dropped in the bezel for a photo op... here's 90 hours into the project:

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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #52 on: August 28, 2008, 08:52:26 pm »
I've been cutting/routing/boring the control panel top over the past few days.  I decided top mount everything to get the most out of the stick length.

I measured the thickness of the joystick/trackball metal mounting plate (1/16") and routed out a recess for each of the sticks and the trackball.... then I realized I need to go deeper.  I plan on having the dust washers from the sticks sit BELOW the CPO.  I also had to account for some sort of mounting bolt head.  I decided on a 5/32" recess (1/16" for the metal plate, 1/16" for the dust washer, and 1/32" for some additional clearance.

I ALMOST routed the trackball recess the same depth but I caught myself just in time.  The trackball mounting plate only needed a 1/16" recess.

The holes for the buttons and the spinner were no problem at all to bore out using a 1 1/8" Forstner bit with a drill guide that I bought at Harbor Freight.

I'm using 5/8" MDF for the panel top... with the "usual" 1/8" Lexan to make it 3/4" total.  I routed a 1/16" slot 11/32" from one edge of the CP top.  Once I add the Lexan, the T-molding will line up perfectly.

Some things that I learned/comments:

- A Forstner bit doesn't leave a "plug" like a hole saw.  It completely eats up the material that you're drilling through.... and it leaves big piles of shavings.   :)

- High speed seems to work best with the Forstner.

- It's close to impossible to route a straight line freehand.  I had a guide clamped in place but it was too much hassle so I removed it and went freehand.

- Using a dull (ish) router bit will burn the wood and not cut so great... use a sharp bit!  I was already in gear for the project so I didn't want to stop once I started... I should have paid closer attention to the bit before starting (like the day before).

Drilling some holes (my cordless drill really wasn't fast enough for the job... so I went with the old standby [a Craftsman electric drill that must be 20 years old]... which worked great):



Nice, clean holes:



The panel (don't laugh at my routing):

« Last Edit: August 28, 2008, 09:08:56 pm by paulscade »
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notanoob81

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #53 on: August 28, 2008, 10:13:33 pm »
Looks cool, although I must admit, your button layout looks a little uncomfortable.

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #54 on: August 29, 2008, 05:25:00 pm »
Ha!... [notanoob81]... I just knew that someone was going to comment on my button layout.

Here's my logic:

I wanted the 4 in a row for NeoGeo.  I wanted 6 in a group for [6 button games].  Now the twist... I wanted 4 in a diamond pattern for other emulators (like Nintendo, etc.) so I could program them like the original controller.

I liked the arched button layouts. (and I'm guessing that you're questioning the 4th "thumb button" being located to the right instead of the left)... hey... my thumb is on the other side my hand.   :)

If I had moved the last button (in the row of 4) to the left, it would mess up my arch and I would have to turn my arm to hit all the buttons (the diamond pattern would "force" me to locate the button too low on the panel).  When you're playing with two players... you're really not standing right in front of the cabinet... you're, sort of, playing at the corners of the cabinet anyway... so the sideways arm position is more natural.

I found the layout comfortable in my controlled lab testing  (my testing consisted of laying out my 1:1 plot of the controls and pretending to play).   :P

Anyway... that's my logic... right or wrong.
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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #55 on: August 29, 2008, 05:32:48 pm »
One of the forum members had asked me about the paint job on the cabinet.  Since my response was somewhat verbose, I thought that I'd post it here for others.

1 - The cans (left to right) are: Black, Blue (both were mixed colors), and primer.
2 - The primer is white and I did not have it tinted.
3 – I hand sanded with a sanding block.
4 – I used 120 grit for the whole project.

I sanded between each coat. (hint… let the paint fully dry.  :) ).   I did one coat of primer one day, another coat on another day… then, on a different weekend… I did the final two coats of blue/black on the same day.  I probably should have waited a day between coats… but I had my wife helping me and she’s one to get things done quick.  If the paint isn’t fully cured, it tends to clog the sandpaper… which is what happened to me when I did the two coats in the same day.

All paint came from Home Depot.  I bought way too much..

I used:
¼ gal blue
¼ gal black
½ gal primer

I painted two coats of primer on the outside of the cabinet… one coat on the inside.  The white that you see in the arcade photos is primer.

Hints/comments:
- The first two coats of primer were applied with a brush.  If you’re going to use a brush, be sure to use even strokes in the same direction.  It will save you some sanding.
- When I was sanding, I didn’t go nuts.  I was only smoothing out any bumps/imperfections.
- Use a good quality, short nap roller for the final coats.  I used a cheap roller for the first final coat… and I found myself picking out little fuzz things that the roller had left behind.  The final coat was applied with a good roller.
- The black paint was more difficult to work with.  It seemed like I could see every little imperfection (maybe I was just looking too hard).

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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #56 on: August 29, 2008, 06:10:20 pm »
Well... today was Lexan cutting day.

I started by cutting the trackball hole.  I figured that this would be the most difficult and everything else needed to use this as a reference.

I wanted a perfect 3" hole... so I used the trackball mounting plate as a guide.  I saw (I believe it was Mountain's) postings so I decided to do something similar as it looked like the way to go.

Here's my circle jig for routing out the trackball hole:



From the top, you can see the mounting plate behind the 5/8" MDF.  I clamped this under the Lexan, set the pattern trace router bit to ride along the mounting place, and started routing.



Lexan is really easy to work with.  It's sort of soft... at one point, I had a sliver hanging off of the panel... I went to break it off and it bent... sort of like copper wire would bend.  I can see why people like to work with it as opposed to Plexiglas.

The hardest part was drilling pilot holes for the router bit to start in.  The drill bit wanted to bite into the soft Lexan material... and I needed a rather large hole (3/8") for the router bit.  I started with a small drill bit and then stepped up to the 3/8".  I had wood directly under each drill hole and I clamped additional support to the left and right of the area I was drilling.  I drilled high speed.  The clamping and speed helped a lot... but the drill bits still wanted to bite into the Lexan with a sort of pop as the bit went through.  I would imagine that this is where most people shatter Plexi.

Clamping the Lexan for drilling pilot holes:



Once I got all the pilot holes drilled, the routing went like clockwork.  Like everyone says... the router cut the Lexan like butter.  No melting; just "snow" everywhere.

Work in progress:



Here's the [almost] completed Lexan panel with its protective covering still on. (minus joystick holes).  It matches the MDF panel exactly.



It took me just under 5 hours but I'm real pleased with the results.
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jlfreund

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #57 on: August 31, 2008, 09:57:58 pm »
Hardware... oh, yea... I'll be needing some hardware...

I went hunting around for some way to mount the control panel box onto the cabinet.  Yes, I know that Happ sells those panel latches (and I'm not sure, I may still need some of those).  I found these friction catches at www.rockler.com .  I mounted them and the panel now snaps into place.  I used 4 of them.  Since the catch uses a "pin and socket" sort of design, I didn't want my panel to be sitting on pins (the part of the catch that's mounted to the bottom of the control panel) when it's removed from the cabinet.  I decided to place two pieces of MDF (one on each side) on the bottom of the control panel.  I cut them at an angle so the panel really does center itself as it snaps.


Great idea for the CP mount.  That was something I struggled with as well (for my kit build) http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=72579.msg748113#msg748113.  I suggest forwarding a link to your post to Mameroom.  They really should update their design to allow for sturdier CP mount and easy CP removal.

I also love the LED, fan, and speakers.  How did you supply power to the screw board for those devices?  And are you going to provide an external volume control?

Also, I hope you use the local artist for side art.  I think it would be really cool to paint something original rather than stick on something you bought online.

-Jason

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #58 on: September 01, 2008, 09:01:21 am »
Great job so far, and well done on the Lexan routing. I've only routed a plexi CP once before and I was really nervous the whole way through... its so easy to go wrong if the piece slips or the router catches. Good preperation, and templates/guides are key.

By the way, theres no such thing as a perfect button layout for EVERY possible game configuration, but reading your description of the 6 player arc + 4 player Neo Geo + 'diamond' configuration, I reckon that comes really close. Well done.

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #59 on: September 01, 2008, 10:11:09 am »
Great job on the project so far, I look forward to following the project all the way to the end.  I especially appreciate the comments, tips, and thought processes and you have went along.

Your work and words and inspired me to get off the couch and finally start my first MAME project in the next few weeks. I have been reading and planning much over the past month but it was your post that got me to Lowes yesterday to pick up three sheets of MDF.

Though I plan on using 5/8 and making a few tweaks and personnel ideas to the overall UAII plans.

Again thanks for a great post so far and look forward to seeing how your machine comes out in the end.


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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #60 on: September 01, 2008, 11:16:53 am »
jlfreund -

The fan, LED marquee lighting, and lights for the coin return are all 12v.  They are all (will be) wired to the terminal strip.  The 12v will come from the PC power supply.

Re: external volume
I fought with that for some time.  Even with all the posts on this board, I still had a hard time choosing a sound system.  I checked into speakers/sub with external volume controls... and I just didn't find exactly what I was looking for.  Once I decided on the car audio speakers, I knew that I would have to find (or build) an amp to drive them.

I found this on Amazon for $60:
http://www.pyleaudio.com/itemdetail.asp?model=PTA2

With the lack of subwoofer, I thought I should, at least, provide decent power to the speakers... I wanted to be sure that I could hear the "wacka, wacka, wacka" of PacMan.  ;)

So... because of this choice, the volume control will be in the cabinet.  I'll likely mount this just inside the coin door somewhere.

dmworking247 -

re: preparation/template
That has a story too.  I did the layout in Visio.  We have a nice Epson 10600 plotter at work.  I plotted at 1:1.  First, I plotted to a local pdf and later sent the pdf to the plotter... it came out too big.  Then, I plotted directly from Visio... it also came out too big (the same actually).  After the second plot, I measured some key points on the plot and the same points on the the control panel... I figured out the percentage difference... (it was 4.6 percent too big)... plotted at 95%... Bingo... I finally had a template that I could use for the CP top and Lexan cutting.  I'll probably use a similar tactic for the CPO.

koinsatx -

Wow... you found 5/8" MDF at Lowes.. amazing.. I had to special order from 84lumber and wait for 3 weeks.  Good luck with the project... my advice: Don't rush. Take your time.  Do lots of research on this board; it's an amazing resource.
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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #61 on: September 01, 2008, 11:29:59 am »
I mounted the glass yesterday.  I was trying to find the right hardware to hold the glass in place.  I came across these shelve supports at Home Depot (.99 for 12).  They looked like the right part for the job.  The supports have a small peg on one side that fits into an appropriately sized hole.  On my test wood, I found that the right sized hole was just a hair too big (1/64" smaller was a bit too tight).  They fit snugly but I wanted tight.

To fix the problem of these potentially falling out, I first drilled the recommended size hole only 1/8" deep.  I switched bits to 1/64" smaller... and drilled the remaining 1/8".  I pushed them in tight with a pair of needle nosed pliers.

The shelve supports:


The glass:
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koinsatx

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #62 on: September 04, 2008, 09:30:06 pm »
I am also considering the Makvision Tri-mode as my monitor, I was curious what measurements as far as width you used on the front and back panels?

Looking at the Ultimate Arcade II plans is a little confusing on the width of these panels.

Thanks..  keep up the great work, it's look sweet.
Kevin

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #63 on: September 05, 2008, 06:57:56 pm »
koinsatx...

The inside dimension of the top of the cabinet is 25".  That allowed for about 3/8" clearance on each side of the monitor.  It doesn't really have a whole lot of extra room (by design).  I wanted the cabinet to be as narrow as possible while still accommodating the monitor that I had picked out.

I also considered the width of the doorways in the house... nothing like building a cabinet in the garage and finding out later that you can't get it into the house.  Doh....
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notanoob81

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #64 on: September 06, 2008, 10:16:05 pm »
Everything looks really great, but you button layout looks uncomfortable for Capcom fighters. What's up?

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #65 on: September 13, 2008, 12:24:11 pm »
Paul,

Quick question, are the speakers your using shielded? if not are they far enough away from the monitor so not to cause and problems?


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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #66 on: September 13, 2008, 04:51:14 pm »
Paul,

Quick question, are the speakers your using shielded? if not are they far enough away from the monitor so not to cause and problems?



That's NOT going to be an issue ...

paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #67 on: September 13, 2008, 05:12:29 pm »
That *was* a consideration when I picked-out and purchased the speakers.  I really couldn't find any "cool looking" shielded speakers... so I took a chance.  I haven't seen any issues yet... but I haven't actually hooked everything up yet either.  I would think that unshielded speakers would cause the most problems when there's a varying magnetic field (i.e. they are on  :) )
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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #68 on: September 13, 2008, 08:56:05 pm »
Project Status:

I'm now 104 hours into the build and the project has come to a screeching halt. <not by choice>

I have to decide on a theme/graphics.... at least for the Control Panel.

I'm at the point where I can't mount controls on the control panel and begin wiring... unless I have a CPO.  The CPO will be sandwiched between the wood CP top and the Lexan... which is held together by the buttons.  I'm not about to unmount everything to get the CPO on after it's all wired up.

I have a few themes in mind:
- Space (lots of free, high resolution photos available)
- Star Trek (humm... not real original... my wife’s vote is for this one)
- Alien (the HR Giger Alien)
- Alien vs. Predator (my wife hates the idea)
- Dueling Dragons (from the roller coaster at Universal Studios in Orlando FL.)

Depending on what I hear back from a local artist... I'm leaning towards dueling dragons.

Check out the attached photo.  My neighbor has this painted on the wall of their son’s bedroom.  I think that (or similar) would look really cool on the sides of my cabinet.  I'm waiting to find out if the artist is interested in doing the work... and at what cost.

Meanwhile, I've tried creating a few different CPO's in Photoshop (Space Theme).  I'm no artist.  I've created "decent" looking composites... but nothing that I'm happy with just yet.

Until I get this solved…  I’m on hold.  :(

Artist Credit: Rick Froehlich
« Last Edit: September 28, 2008, 09:22:42 am by paulscade »
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paulscade

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #69 on: September 15, 2008, 10:52:16 am »
I just got word back from the local artist... no go.   :(
He's busy working on other projects.
I'll need to go to Plan B.  Once I figure out what that is... I'll post an update.
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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #70 on: September 22, 2008, 03:12:14 pm »
I'm back in business.

After the artist said no, I decided to go with the theme that I first considered at the beginning of my build... a space theme.

One of the considerations was that space photos (Stars, Shuttles, Space Stations, etc.) are available in high resolution for free.... all over the NASA sites.

A few hours [over a few days] with PhotoShop and a >350MB file later.... I came up with my CPO.

I took the PhotoShop file on CD to my neighborhood FedEX/Kinkos and spent a little time explaining what I wanted and how it was going to be used.  For printing media, I was amazed at how many different media types that I could specify.  The girl behind the counter first recommended a laminated photo paper.  While this looked good, I thought that it may be a little too thick.  I don't want my Plexiglas sitting too high on the panel.

I chose their "inside banner paper".  It's sort of a plastic photopaper... relatively thin.  It's glossy and doesn't rip if you try to tear it.

http://www.fedex.com/us/officeprint/storesvcs/osg/detail_indoor_banner.html

I paid $30 for my photo quality, 17.5" x 29.5", Control panel Overlay.

The comet in the center is part of the area that is being cut out... so my lighted trackball will have it's own tail.  ;)
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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #71 on: September 23, 2008, 06:46:08 pm »
I started work on the control panel again over the weekend.

I mounted the hinges and ran into a bit of an "issue".  While my tests seemed to indicate that the hinges would work without any modification, I found out otherwise when I actually mounted them.  More on that in a minute.

The hinges came with these small wood screws.  While that might be fine for a cabinet door, I thought that the weight of the panel, fully loaded with controls, might be a bit much for a few tiny wood screws... especially if I end up opening and closing it all the time to show off to friends.   ;D

I wanted the screws to go through the wood where I could use a washer/nut to insure that I get a solid hinge.

For the top screws (going through the CP top) it was easy.  I countersunk the screws on the top knowing that it would be covered by the CPO.  After I tightened them up, I knew that they weren't coming loose any time soon.  I plan on leaving that side of the hinge connected all the time (i.e. when I remove the panel top to make wiring easier, I'll remove the set of screws that hold the hinge to the CP box).

For the screws that hold the hinge to the CP box, I wanted to go through the box (for strength)... but... that would be to the front side of the CP box.... not so pretty.  Counter sinking would have worked there too...

But what happens later when I need to remove the CP top?  The top screw heads won't be accessable... they will be behind the CPO and Lexan.  The front screw heads won't be accessable because I will have filled in the countersunk holes.  I didn't want to take a chance of the screw heads (or nuts, depending on which way I go) spinning around when I tried to tighten them up.

I must have stood in the isle at Home Depot for 30 minutes thinking of a way around this.  Then I found the obvious answer.... T-Nuts (of course, I could have used these for the top too... duh).  It meant that I had to drill out a countersunk hole a little bigger than I wanted... but I would figure out a way to fill that up later.  The T-nut solved the problem of a spinning nut once the countersunk hole is filled in.

Now about those hinges.... once everything was bolted together, I had an interference problem.  The CP top was hitting the edge of the CP box as it hinged upward.  It wasn't much but it was enough to make me want to fix it.  The fix was to route off the inside edge of the CP box.  I had a 1/2" round router bit in the collection so I chose to use that.  Once I routed off the front edge, I thought that it looked pretty good... so I routed the entire inside edge of the CP box.

I mounted the hinges back and everything moved smooth as silk.... just what I wanted... strong and smooth.  For the final touch, I'll probably connect a chain or something to keep the top from hinging back too far.... to keep some of the pressure off of the hinge.

Here's the routing that I had to do around the inside edge of the CP box:


The panel opens pretty far:


I put on the first coat of paint... there will still be some sanding and additional painting... it's still a little rough around where I filled in the t-nuts:


Since this is going to have a 3/4" black T-molding around it, I masked off the slots that I cut in the CP box... after I remove the tape... I'll paint a black edge around the bottom so, if the molding center is off at all (it shouldn't be with all the measuring that I did), you won't be able to tell.

« Last Edit: September 28, 2008, 09:21:39 am by paulscade »
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predator314

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #72 on: September 23, 2008, 08:46:15 pm »
I love this cabinet.  I'm building my first cab and it's the UAII design as well.  Glad I can follow along with this thread (with it's great detail) as I am way behind you in process.  Hope you don't mind if I steal some of your ideas, cause I think I'm gonna ;)

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #73 on: September 23, 2008, 09:46:32 pm »
Lookin' good so far!

What kind of hinges are those?
never seen ones like that before

thatitalian

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #74 on: September 24, 2008, 06:13:32 am »
Lookin' good so far!

What kind of hinges are those?
never seen ones like that before

I am also interested about these hinges as they are screw in ones and am having difficulty in finding a decent pair!

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #75 on: September 24, 2008, 07:11:05 am »
Lookin' good so far!

What kind of hinges are those?
never seen ones like that before

I am also interested about these hinges as they are screw in ones and am having difficulty in finding a decent pair!

I think they may be similar to these kitchen cupboard hinges:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/lrgimg_popup.jsp;jsessionid=XZUIGP035LZSOCSTHZOSFFQ?productId=16131&imageNo=null&ts=54537

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #76 on: September 24, 2008, 07:48:28 am »
I think they are slightly different. they look as if you do not need to router out a circle for the hinges to slot into.

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #77 on: September 24, 2008, 08:57:26 am »
You get get these from Screwfix in the UK. They may not open quite as much as those ones though but they may be worth a try:



(click the image for the link)

I used them on my cocktail and they worked a treat but I was only opening a panel with no hangover though 90 degrees.


thatitalian

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #78 on: September 24, 2008, 09:04:14 am »
Its the hangover that worries me  :-\ (not the drinking one..... :laugh2:)

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Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #79 on: September 24, 2008, 09:06:17 am »
predator314... steal away... I'm flattered.

You guys like the hinge... I did too.  :)

It's from Rockler:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=255

(and I wouldn't have known about Rockler if it hadn't been for this forum.)

No, you don't have to route out a hole... they fit flush against the surface.

But NOTE: you won't get >90 degrees of opening if you have more than, say a 3/4" overhang on the control panel top.  Mine is 3/4".

Here's the detailed spec sheet that came in the bag with the hinges.
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