Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!  (Read 61151 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Martijn

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 822
  • Last login:January 25, 2024, 10:34:36 am
  • Akira!
    • ModMyBox
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #120 on: November 04, 2008, 03:50:14 pm »
nice workaround. btw did you test if there will be light bleeding through the speaker holes? because i see the marquee light is just above the speakers

Benevolance

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 602
  • Last login:August 10, 2019, 03:13:59 pm
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #121 on: November 04, 2008, 03:56:30 pm »
Did you need to use a special router bit to cut metal? Or was it just a regular carbide pattern bit? You've given me an idea of how to make my marquee holder. Thanks.

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #122 on: November 05, 2008, 10:45:40 am »
Martijn:
There's no light bleeding through any of the mounting holes, etc. for the speakers.

BUT... as an extra added bonus....

The light does backlight the red speaker diaphragms making them glow red.  It's not something that I expected... but it looks cool.  So cool... I considered adding extra lighting to make them really glow (just considered... I probably won't really do it.... yet).

Benevolance:
I didn't need to cut any metal.  I cut down the plastic marquee retainers first.... then mounted them to the angle iron.  In the photo, it may look like they were cut while attached... but that's because of my precision measurements.  ;D   nah... not really... it's about 1/16" off but that didn't matter.
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

Benevolance

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 602
  • Last login:August 10, 2019, 03:13:59 pm
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #123 on: November 05, 2008, 02:07:39 pm »
Heh. The plastic looked like it was metal in the photo.

I'm intrigued by your dimmer switch for the trackball. I bought the Electric Ice trackball, too. I'd like to do the same thing myself, but I know very little about wiring electronics. I have a few questions if you don't mind?

The red wire that goes into the first terminal of the switch is the 5v that you pulled that from the USB board that's on the trackball itself, right? And the second wire in that pairing goes...where, exactly? Regarding the ribbon cable for the lighting module, wires 2-4 go into the switch. The regular 5v just plugs into the green block?

What is the green block beneath the red switch? It looks like the red switch part might 'plug' into the green block beneath it? If that's the case, are the wires going into the red switch or into the green block?

The blue block in the top left is a resistor? It doesn't look like it's connected in any way to the circruit? Is that the case or is there a connection underneath?

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #124 on: November 05, 2008, 03:28:31 pm »
Benevolance:

I've updated the schematic that I posted to include pin numbers.  This should clear it up a little.

Where to start....

The green block is just a 16 pin socket.  I wanted to be able to replace the switch if it broke... without having to resolder the wires.... so I used a socket.

The red block is a simple switch (x5 but I only needed 4; switch 5 is unused).  The switch plugs into the socket.  I could have wired directly to the switch but I would have had the issue above.

The blue block is a variable resistor.  It has 3 connections... one for each end of the resistor... and one for a wiper arm.  I used 2 of the 3 connections... one end... and the wiper arm (which provides for the varying resistance).

Yes, the red wire comes from the +5 pin on the trackball interface.  The little header pins on the trackball interface provided for an easy way to tap +5 and Ground.  The white wire is the ground.  I needed both.

If you have a look at the schematic....

- The red wire comes from the TB and connects to one side of switch 1 (opening switch 1 lets me turn it off completely)

- The other side of switch 1 connects to one end of the resistor

- The wiper arm of the resistor provides the 5v back to the LEDs (in other words... the wiper arm is connected to pin 1 of the ribbon cable coming from the TB.)

(at this point the LED's all have power but none of them turn on because there's no ground.)

- each of the remaining 3 wires from the trackball ribbon cable are connected to one side of each of 3 switches (switch 2, 3, and 4).

- The opposite side of switches 2, 3, and 4 are all connected together along with ground (the white wire from the trackball interface).

Make sense... or add more confusion?.... :dizzy:
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

Visitor Q

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1187
  • Last login:May 01, 2019, 09:09:30 am
  • The Saw Is Family
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #125 on: November 06, 2008, 08:26:18 am »
How do you like that tinted glass Paul, now that you have had a chance to play some games on it?

Do you plan on trying any light gun games?
“Woe be unto him who opens one of the seven gateways to hell, because through that gateway evil will invade the world."

Benevolance

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 602
  • Last login:August 10, 2019, 03:13:59 pm
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #126 on: November 06, 2008, 03:58:17 pm »
Paul, that was immensely helpful. Thank you very much.

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #127 on: November 07, 2008, 12:26:08 pm »
The tinted glass is great!  When the cabinet is off, it has a nice tinted look that somewhat hides the bezel and monitor (not that it needs hiding  :) ).  When it's on, you don't even notice that that glass tinted... unless you are consciously looking for tinted glass.  Highly recommended.

No, I have no plans on using a light gun... but I have found that some of the light gun games play pretty nicely [for single player] using the trackball... Bang! being a current favorite.

Marquee Update:
I made a cardboard marquee last night to test fit the marquee mounts.  It fit nicely... so now I have the exact dimensions that I'll need for the real thing.  I'll be out of town for a week... so graphics design will be put on hold for a bit.
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

SNAAKE

  • Trade Count: (+29)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3546
  • Last login:January 11, 2024, 12:21:50 pm
  • my joystick is bigger than your joystick !
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #128 on: November 24, 2008, 09:01:03 am »
can U still see the bezel though?? I have a 31" monitor and I am planning on building another cabinet but I have NO idea what to do about a bezel. they dont one for that size and I dont wanna make some r andom bezel out of cardboard box or whatever. maybe tinted glass will work best.

anyway nice cabinet.  :cheers:

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #129 on: November 26, 2008, 04:55:57 pm »
Yes, you can see through it... it won't hide the bezel/no-bezel completely.  You can get different shades of gray... from what I read (before ordering), the light gray seemed to be the tinted glass of choice.  If you go too dark, you'll have issues with monitor brightness.

As you probably saw... here's what it looks like with the arcade powered down:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=82241.msg878506#msg878506

and here are the specs on the glass:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=82241.msg865815#msg865815
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

Visitor Q

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1187
  • Last login:May 01, 2019, 09:09:30 am
  • The Saw Is Family
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #130 on: January 13, 2009, 08:39:27 am »
I am still trying to decide if I want to get smoked glass or not. The one very positive thing I can say about the Makvision monitor is the blacks on it are amazing. Vertical games look excellent; the black bars on the sides of the screen are pitch black like the monitor is not even on in those spots... My TV does not even handle blacks that well!
“Woe be unto him who opens one of the seven gateways to hell, because through that gateway evil will invade the world."

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - No Name (yet)
« Reply #131 on: February 07, 2009, 12:43:36 pm »
One of the members here asked me about my trackball LED control.
 
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=82241.msg897333#msg897333
 
I thought that I would share the answers with the general population.
 
First, I'd like to say...
 
LED's require a current limiting resistor to be in series with the power supply.  This limits the current once the LED lights up.  The LED lighting module on the Electric Ice Trackball already has these resistors in place... so lighting one of the LED's on that module is simply a matter of supplying 5v and Ground to the appropriate LED.
 
The USB interface on the trackball gets 5v from the computer so it's a perfect place to get the power that's needed to light the LED's.
 
The LED control that I built does nothing more that that.... it supplies 5v to each of the 3 LEDs.
 
The tweaks...
 
I added a switch so I can control [on/off] for each individual LED... and... I added a variable resistor so I could supply less than 5v allowing me to dim the LED.
 
... side note... looking back... I probably could have skipped the dimming... I've never dimmed the trackball... it looks really good at full brightness.
 
> How hard was it to build?  :dizzy:
 
That depends.  If you can't solder, you're going to have a tough time.  It wasn't difficult to build... you do have to have some dexterity to wrap small wires around small pins.
 
> Are the parts pretty easy to get at a Radio Shack or Fry's?   :dunno
 
I had the parts in my parts bin.  Yes, Frys would probably have these parts... Radio Shack; I'm not so sure.... they aren't what they use to be.  You can definitely get them from DigiKey.
 
> What was the cost?   :dunno
 
I'd be surprised if you had to pay more than $10 for everything... and I'm guessing that for that $10, you're probably going to get extras (i.e. two in a bag, etc. from Frys).
 
> Do you have a parts list?   :dunno

8 pin IC socket [optional] (I used a 14 pin socket because I didn't have an 8 laying around)
5K Variable resistor [optional]
4 position SPST DIP switch (I used a 5 because I didn't have a 4)
1" x 1" piece of perfboard to mount everything
Some wire (you'll need two... 1 for power, 1 for ground)
 
> Any instructions?   :dunno

Connect the power and ground wires to the corresponding +5 and gnd on the trackball interface (you'll see them marked on the interface board).  You should now have a ribbon cable from the LED's and a power/gnd from the interface in your hand.

I'll call the side of the switch with the numbers (1-5) side A and the other side, side B (ref: photo).

Connect the power wire to side A of switch 1.  Connect Side B of switch 1 to the center conductor of the variable resistor (the VR will likely have 3 connections).  Connect either side (pick one) of the variable resistor to the 5v wire on the *ribbon cable* coming from the trackball LEDs.

-- at this point--- you've got the LED's powered but since there's no ground yet, nothing lights up.  The 3 remaining wires (part of the ribbon cable coming from the trackball) are ground wires for each of the 3 LED's

Connect pins 2,3,4 together on side A of the switch... and connect the ground wire (coming from the trackball interface) to any of these 3 pins (connecting them all together.)

You should now have 3 unconnected wires left (the 3 grounds coming from the trackball LED's).

Connect each one of these wires, one to each pin [2, 3, and 4] on side B of the switch.  One wire per pin.  It doesn't really matter which one goes where... the order will determine which LED color lights up with which switch.

That's it.

Note that this only allows you to turn on/off each individual LED... and dim them all at once.  This mod does not allow you to dim the LEDs individually.

... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #132 on: March 17, 2009, 09:28:03 pm »
Well... in line with the space theme, my cabinet now has a name.... BLASTOFF!

I designed the marquee using Photoshop and gave the artwork to Scott at Mame Marquees (because I heard so many good things about Mame Marquees here on the board).

I can say that the results were nothing less than spectacular.  Although I didn't see the basic marquee material, the "ultimate" is really nice.  It's a real thick plastic material with a slightly textured surface on one side.  No doubt worth the extra $10.

I had Mame Marquees cut and include the Plexi.  It was cut exactly as I specified and it fit perfectly.

Here's the Marquee... more photos will follow shortly.



The photo really doesn't do it justice.  Here's a jpg of the artwork.


« Last Edit: March 18, 2009, 12:47:38 pm by paulscade »
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

cmoses

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 718
  • Last login:July 27, 2023, 05:19:00 pm
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #133 on: March 18, 2009, 09:34:15 am »
Paulscade,

Looking good, glad to see an update.  Need to see some pictures of the marquee installed as well as some full cabinet pics.

Did Mame Marquees do (2) pieces of plexi and front and back to sandwich them between?

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #134 on: March 18, 2009, 01:06:00 pm »
Yes... there are two clear Plexiglass panels ... each is .08" thick.  They were cut to my exact specification (to the 1/16").  The sandwhich fits really nicely into the marquee holder.

I took a load of photos yesterday evening.  Once I go through them all, I'll post them here.
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #135 on: April 04, 2009, 10:38:39 am »


I thought that I would share this little applet as others may also find it useful....

Hardware:

The GGG KeyWiz40 (but the hardware really doesn't matter)

Some Background:

The Keywiz allows for multiple profiles to be applied (one at a time).  The profile files can be selected using a command line switch when launching the keywiz downloader.  So I can program my buttons differently depending on which configuration file that is selected.  It also allows for 2 profiles to be selected via the joystick (MAME default and the currently loaded configuration) by holding down the Shazaaam key and moving the stick.

I have a two player control panel setup... but I find that it's *usually* played by one person (but certainly not always).

I have two configuration files that are usually used --

Two Player - this profile programs the controls like you might expect; the buttons/stick on the left are for player 1 and the buttons/stick on the right are for player 2.  The analog stick is also used by player 1 by default.

One Player - (the default) - both sets of controls left and right are all programmed as player 1 controls.  Button 1 on the left is the same as button 1 on the right, etc.

In the one player configuration, I can stand wherever I want when playing... I can use the stick on the left and the buttons on the right... or the stick/buttons on either side (like you normally would).  It also allows me to switch hands (i.e. use the stick on the right and buttons on the left)

My "Problem":

I wanted a simple menu system that lets me select a profile to use at boot time.  While I can switch between two profiles using the joystick... my only choices are the MAME defaults and whatever has been uploaded to the KeyWiz.

I wanted to be able to choose between my player one and player two profiles at boot time.  While I could have used a batch file, that's pretty ugly.  After discussing the "problem" with a friend at work, he wrote me this .hta menu system that works great.... and I'm real pleased with the way that it looks.

How it works:

Pretty simple... it waits for about 10 seconds for a keypress.  If no key is pressed, the default option (keypress of 1 [one player]) is chosen.

Valid keypresses are [currently]:
1 - one player
2 - two player
esc - exit
end - exit

You can add additional keypresses by expanding the case statement.

The applet launches the keywiz downloader with the appropriate option then launches my frontend [Maximus Arcade]

You can modify the paths to point to whatever front end that you want... you can also modify the KeyWiz downloader options and path (or replace it completely).

The screen positioning and size are optimized for 1024 x 768 (which is what I run).

Drop these files into the same directory and run the hta.

Programming credit: Billy Casselberry
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #136 on: April 09, 2009, 03:24:18 pm »
When I mounted the marquee, I had some light leaks... maybe 1/16" on either side of the marquee.  I placed some light pencil marks where the front of the marquee would sit and I used some foam tape to seal up the leaks:





I'm happy with the results:

(this photo taken with no flash using only the backlighting from the NovaMatrix from GGG)

... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

monkey puzzle

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 193
  • Last login:March 14, 2024, 07:36:37 am
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #137 on: April 14, 2009, 04:44:03 pm »
Hello Paulscade, I just wanted to say how good your cab  is looking.

I'm currently building my first cab, but havn't got very far yet. I have a question for you:
I was planning on using 2 x U360 joysticks and no other joysticks. For what reason do you (and others like you) use 2 x magsticks (or similar) as well as a U360? Why don't you just use 2 x U360s? Should I re-consider my joystick choice?

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #138 on: April 14, 2009, 07:20:44 pm »
Being a first build, I did a lot of homework... reading this forum and searching the web for any info that I could get... so I could make the right choice... well... at least an informed choice.

I wanted a universal panel.  I've always liked the feel of real arcade sticks... the ones that have corners (4 way sticks).  I also knew that I would be playing plenty of 8 way games.  The Magsticks seemed to fit the bill.  In hindsight, I think that I made the right choice.  They are a very short throw... but I've got very use to them.

The U360 was selected because I wanted an analog stick in the panel (although I haven't exploited the analog functionality yet).  I do find myself using it for the flying games (horizontal and vertical scrollers) because it seems smoother.

I'd probably agree with what most people say about the U360 stick... get the hard spring and the circular restrictor.  I've got the hard spring... but no restrictor.  The stick does have a lot of throw without the restrictor.

As for your choice of using 2 x U360's ... I suppose it's somewhat of a personal preference.  If you go with only U360's, you won't have that 4 or 8 way feel... unless you add one of the restrictors... but, then, that sort of, defeats the purpose of having a fully programmable stick...

Side note and off topic a bit...

I spent about an hour composing a nice post with photos (of Blastoff!)... when I went to post, I got an error because I was trying to attach an xls file... when I hit back... my post was gone. :banghead:  My next post will probably have photos of the project.
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

cmoses

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 718
  • Last login:July 27, 2023, 05:19:00 pm
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #139 on: April 14, 2009, 08:54:44 pm »
Looking forward to your photos.  Make sure you have one of the full cabiner so we can see it in all it's glory.

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #140 on: April 15, 2009, 02:57:05 pm »
Some project facts:

???  Research for the project started in November 2007
:laugh:  My build lasted from March 2008 to December 2008 (mostly weekends)
:o  Project cost: about $2100 (excluding the PC)
:applaud:  Total build time: 138 hours   

I'm 98% complete now.  I consider the last 2% of the project the time that it will take me to get together and apply the side art.

I've attached a spreadsheet detailing all the project costs and build time.

This really was a fun project to build... and it's my first woodworking project (aside from when I was a kid and bolted together a few 2x4s to make speaker stands).

Here are the photos of the project:

















... And "No flash" shot:

« Last Edit: August 14, 2009, 09:23:13 pm by paulscade »
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

Benevolance

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 602
  • Last login:August 10, 2019, 03:13:59 pm
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #141 on: April 15, 2009, 06:40:22 pm »
I think this is one of the best documented project builds I've seen on this site and the final product is excellent. I bookmarked this thread early and routinely followed along with the updates. I took a lot of inspiration for my own cabinet from this thread. And especially thanks for all the help with wiring the lighting for the trackball!

Gamester

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 483
  • Last login:March 01, 2019, 03:00:10 pm
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #142 on: July 02, 2009, 05:08:26 pm »
Paul,

I just want to first say that you did a fantastic job on your cab, and your extremely thorough documentation is really appreciated!

I have a question for you...  I was curious about your decision to use a hi-res (VGA/SVGA/XGA) monitor instead of one that supports the authentic arcade resolutions (like the WG D9800 or the Betson).  How close to authentic do the older games look on your monitor?  Any regrets? 

I'm struggling in my decision between the monitors that support the authentic resolutions vs a hi-res model like you got.  I can see advantages both ways.  I'm leaning toward a hi-res, but my only fear is that I might be sacrificing too much with regards to the display of the classic, low-res games.

Any insight you can offer is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Current Project:                                                       First Project:
  

paulscade

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 215
  • Last login:December 26, 2022, 09:40:35 pm
    • My Arcade Project - Blastoff!
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #143 on: July 04, 2009, 10:09:11 am »
@gamester
Tkx! for the compliments... let's pause a second so I can soak it up.  ;D

No regrets at all!.... none, nada, zip.... I run the front end at 1024x768... I'd run it higher if the monitor supported it.  I think that it switches resolution and/or refresh rate automatically once you run MAME... to whatever MAME needs.

The monitor looks great.  The games all look "authentic" enough to me... sure, they are missing [most] all those scan lines... with the right filter enabled, they look (IMHO) better than the original.  The video filtering does make a difference.

Because of the monitor size and the smoked glass in front of the monitor... the vertical games look great too.

re: decision to buy this monitor

I really didn't have any experience at all... this is, after all, my first build.  I started off looking for an LCD monitor for the project... but then quickly realized that they don't make *big* LCD monitors (say bigger than 21" or so) in a 4x3 aspect ratio.  For me, 4x3 was a requirement... so I knew that I would have to go with a CRT.  I went looking for the biggest CRT (within reason) with the highest resolution that I could find.

No regrets... I'd buy this monitor again.
... Why is it that you always find it in the last place that you look? ...

Shortbus

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 194
  • Last login:August 26, 2023, 03:20:00 pm
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #144 on: September 13, 2009, 01:11:45 pm »
I have to agree with the masses, you did it right and it shows. I learned alot and took notes on specific things, thank you Paul.

Just one thing I noticed in the final pictures, a errr request if you will.

Please either:

A: move the cabinet

or

B: Re-locate the picture of the marine.  (If he visits and sees blastoff covering his pic he might beat you, plus he deserves it).

(this was a joke).

Thanks alot, now build a jukebox or something, how about a CNC, so you can document it and it will help me,,.,,,,heeee heee.

take care.


danivempire

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:November 05, 2014, 01:50:57 pm
Re: paulscade - First Build - MAME - Blastoff!
« Reply #145 on: March 06, 2011, 06:30:07 am »
DAMN!!!

sometimes, I like to wander around in the forum, see what people did and stuff...

And Here I got an answer for a problem I have too!!!

I got two ultrastick 360 in this cab

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110012.0

And due to space issue I had to put the sticks in the wrong "side" as you did... And sometimes it's a pain in the ass for some games

And reading your stuff, I saw the "just turn the pcb at 90°" ... It's so evident that I didn't see it...

thank you, gonna grab a screwdriver and move the sucker  :notworthy: