Main > Main Forum
Dreamcast and Mame cabinet
<< < (8/10) > >>
northerngames:
to be honost with a trackball spiner buttons joys and wiring your not going to get the switchbox in your cp anyhow.

place it on your coinbox so when you open the coin door it is right there if that is an issue.

you could wire a switch from the toggle switch and mount it anywhere on the cab you wanted really.

there are big bulky models and there are smaller models like the radio shack version.

if you use DB25 and remember your pinout you then can connect any console of choice the same way f you need to swap it out unplug it and put the new one in no tools needed.

any other way plan on spending hours trying to find what wire goes where and to what on each console connected and tools needed and alot of time that could be saved in less time by making it DB-25 istead once its done its done after that everything else can just plug in.
NickG:

--- Quote from: moloch on June 17, 2008, 04:19:36 pm ---How do you call up the physical console from a frontend, and switch back? That would be the  :censored:!!!!


--- End quote ---
Use an Ledwiz (or similar) or a serial controller to drive your switchbox(es) and power relays as well.  Keep an escape/quit button un-switched.
One plan I have thought of is to use Mala's serial plug-in, in combination with an IR blaster circuit and an IR A/V switchbox, and some IR KVM's.
Another - probably easier and more reliable- is to tap the switch lines directly to +5V from LedWiz (or similar) outputs.
I mentioned these ideas before in the project thread in my sig.
moloch:
Nice. That is awesome.....

I will look through your thread. I glanced through it. I will now go through it with a fine tooth comb.
ark_ader:

--- Quote from: Miller on June 17, 2008, 04:47:51 pm ---
Why am i going to fry my PC or DC? and why is this a lazy solution is it not being lazy by buying a switch box without attempting to do it another way?
Like i said i dont want to open the CP and start switching over controls and also bear in mind that this cab is a Naomi uni therefore space is very tight and an external switch box is ugly period.

--- End quote ---

You mount the switchbox from inside, use a dremel and make a small hole where the shaft of the switchbox will be made available and either extend the shaft of the switchbox, or get a cover that will marry the colour of your cab.  Put some decals next to it, and it will look the business.

Nobody would know.  Or you can just get an electronic switchbox and wire it to a momentary switch.  Some of those switches are very small.

I agree that manual switchboxes are unsightly, but there are ways to conceal them.
Miller:

--- Quote from: ark_ader on June 18, 2008, 01:01:34 am ---
--- Quote from: Miller on June 17, 2008, 04:47:51 pm ---
Why am i going to fry my PC or DC? and why is this a lazy solution is it not being lazy by buying a switch box without attempting to do it another way?
Like i said i dont want to open the CP and start switching over controls and also bear in mind that this cab is a Naomi uni therefore space is very tight and an external switch box is ugly period.

--- End quote ---

You mount the switchbox from inside, use a dremel and make a small hole where the shaft of the switchbox will be made available and either extend the shaft of the switchbox, or get a cover that will marry the colour of your cab.  Put some decals next to it, and it will look the business.

Nobody would know.  Or you can just get an electronic switchbox and wire it to a momentary switch.  Some of those switches are very small.

I agree that manual switchboxes are unsightly, but there are ways to conceal them.

--- End quote ---

Ok ive been looking into this a bit more and it seems using a Y cable for DC and PC controls which is in affect what im doing causes grounding issues and like you have already previously posted it is more hassle than its worth. I spoke to another guy who said he had a solution using terminal block connectors but it turned out all he was doing was using male and female plugin term blocks and swapping them over when he wanted to change controls, which is not what im looking for.
So a switch box as you have righly pointed out looks like the only real viable solution in my case  :applaud:

Are these the type of switch box you are talking about? http://www.amazon.com/tag/lpt%202%20port%20switch%20box%20printer%20db25%20mechanical%20manual and wire each cable to each pin?

The box above looks way too bulky so ive been looking around and do you think this one would be ok http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-Compact-Parallel-Switch-Printer/dp/B00004Z6QT/ref=pd_sbs_ce_title_1 it looks ideal for my purposes as it is automated (no switching) and compact (will fit in CP) and also capable of adding more console controls in the future.
Let me know what you think thanks.
Navigation
Message Index
Next page
Previous page

Go to full version