Arcade Collecting > Pinball

First pinball. cleaning the playfield. UPDATED: pictures added

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shardian:
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/#smatrix

The lock out wire problem is discussed in this section.

grbgemen:
well there is no coin mechs/switchs on the coin door so i dont see any coin door lockout wire.  like i stated earlier, it appears that the previous owner or somebody wired a pushbutton switch into to 25 cent plate to control credits.  im gonna go take another look at it.

EDIT::

i wanna check the spider chips but im a little confused on how to test them.  the description is not clear enough for me.

"Testing the Input/Output Buffer and Spider Chips. In order to check the buffer chips, we will activate the buffer inputs, and see if there is a corresponding response at the buffer outputs. The buffers chips are Z29 (7405) and Z27 (74H21), both right below the DIP switch. Also Z9 (7405) and Z8 (7404), both at the bottom left of the CPU board. Use an alligator clip connected to ground to activate the buffer inputs, which will control the buffer output pins. A logic probe is best for checking the output, but a DMM set to DC volts can be used."

it says use an alligator clip connected to ground to activate the buffer inputs.  so i assume a alligator clip connected to ground metal piece with a wire leading to where?

the first pin to check is:

Ground Z29 pin 1 (input) and check pin 2 (output).

does the other end of the wire go to pin one?  then using my DMM i put the positive end in pin 2?  where does the neg end of the DMM go?  or am i totally misunderstanding this?

grbgemen:
so i should probably repin everything next? 

what all do i need?  i see like three different types of pins on the pbresource website.

man this is a lot of work.

shardian:
Have you inspected the connectors like I said earlier? Have you taken pics? We are getting to a point where you have to start supplying visual input to get better advice.

If your board edges look like this:


And your connectors look like this:



Then you will have tons of issues and your switch matrix can go nuts.

Personally, testing the spider chips is a waste of time. There is a list of things you can check that will pretty much tell you if you have a fried spider chip or two. With a scope, it takes like 5 minutes to figure that out. The guide then goes into a detailed check of the spider chips, but why? You can't reasonably replace them.

You can test the board by soldering an led and resistor across the inputs of the top/right most display chip, and then connecting only the top left power connector to the board. That will take all of the connectors out of the equation. That procedure is outlined in the repair guide. If the led comes on after 5 seconds, you have a booting board and know the hanging problem is in the connectors.

And yes, you really do need to bite the bullet and repin the connectors. It is a royal pain in the ass to get started, but gets easier as you go. Proper tools are an absolute requirement.

grbgemen:
i apologize, i thought u wanted to see pictures of what condition the machine was in.  didnt even think about you wanting to see the connections.

but last night i started looking at the pins and i think they do need to be replaced.  i ordered some new pins last night.  gonna try the LED test when i get home from work.

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