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Smash TV --> Golden Tee --> Smash TV MAME Cabinet
IDDQD:
--- Quote from: grbgemen on June 03, 2008, 09:03:23 pm ---the cabinet im working on now is a MKII and ive been using 3M Safest stripper. The results are fantastic.
i have also used a heat gun to remove a thick layer of paint on a cabinet. that worked good too. that cabinets artwork was painted directly onto the wood.
but it depends on how the smash tv artwork is applied. for example, the MKII side art is a vinyl sticker if you will. if i used the heatgun on that, it would lift both the paint and the artwork up from the wood.
--- End quote ---
I think what I'm working with has been painted directly on to the cab, because I can see the relief of it underneath the black paint -- it's a little raised where it has been painted. Does that make sense? Also, if this is the case, would you recommend a heat gun? What exactly did you do to take the paint off with the heat gun? Would a hair dryer work?
--- Quote from: weasel-like_animal on June 04, 2008, 12:04:54 am ---Think about using 3/4" plywood, or even MDF for the control panel. Many people use MDF because it can give a really nice finish. Also if you are super anal, you can get a thin lexan/plexi sheet to lay over the CP when its done. I chose to make a 1/4" plexi CP without wood and its sorta cool, but not traditional.
--- End quote ---
This was actually going to be my next question. I'm going to Home Depot tomorrow to buy something for the CP, but I'm not sure what... do most people use 3/4" plywood or MDF, or what? I'm planning on using this at parties, so I don't think the plexiglass is a bad idea, but it depends on how nice my CPO is, I guess.
Another related question, how do you guys make the cut necessary for t-molding on your CP?
weasel-like_animal:
I think a lot of people use 3/4" MDF, with 1/8" plexi (if they use it, and its totally optional). That way the buttons and joysticks aren't too deep and will work.
To get T-molding in there, you'll need a router with a t-molding bit. You might be able to do it with a Dremel, but it will take lots and lots of patience and a VERY steady hand. Router is the way to go. There are threads about it on the Woodworking section.
grbgemen:
basically the paint was on so thick that i just put the heat gun on a spot for a little bit. the paint would start to bubble up and then i would move to another spot and repeat. after i had a little area done i stopped and peeled the paint away.
a few spots i left the heat gun on for to long. after i was all done, the paint had tiny pinholes all over. not sure if it was from the heat gun or if it was like that from before. but the entire side art was intact and could be restored easily.
i have read about others who have used a hair dryer before and it worked. my heat gun was only $20 from a local hardware store.
not sure if i would really recommend it but if you do try it, do not leave the heat gun on for to long. maybe wait and see what others say.
Barry Barcrest:
That artwork looks like it is a sticker, that is why it appears to be raised up.
shardian:
The original artwork is a screen printed vinyl sticker and it will appear raised under the black paint. You can get 3m safest stripper at Ace Hardware. That is the only place I know of that stocks it on the shelf. It works GREAT for screened vinyl cabinets.
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