Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

Galaga upright restoration

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Mauzy:

--- Quote from: kayoteq on October 07, 2008, 12:10:28 pm ---
After a while of playing and booting, the PCB hasn't acted up once since that one brief image rom hiccup. Guy does a keen job.

Still have an issue of it taking about 10-15 minutes for the CRT to 'warm up enough' to make the green show up. the connector has issues with red, and maybe the green signal isn't making contact till the boards expand enough (already did all the standard caps on this G07) So at a point I gotta pull the chassis and reflow the connectors for the rgb. I overlooked it the first time (and it was, indeed the first time doing a cap kit)

Worth it rather than having somebody over and having to wait for all the colors to show up..
The other G07 I have boots right up in color, so there's something not connecting right off.


--- End quote ---
My Galaga PCB randomly resets itself every 2 or 3 months, other than that, no problems. Somethings aren't worth messing with again.

Do the other two colors come up relatively quick? The G07 in my Super Pac takes a good minute for the picture to completely come up. I was told by qrz:


--- Quote from: qrz on December 12, 2007, 11:09:42 pm ---
a weak tube can be compared to a mineral build up in plumbing. the more gunk in the pipe the lower the flow.
a weak crt has less available electrons in which to bombard the phosphor. the greater the kinetic energy of the electron impact, the brighter the emited light ( hence the high 2nd anode voltage )

what the rejuve procedure involves.. briefly increasing the filament temperature by applying a higher than normal
voltage . this will increase the volume of available electrons at the cathode  .
a momentary high positive voltage is applied to g1. the sudden presence of the voltage attracts the electron cloud from the more negative cathode . the sudden burst of current ( limited to 100-150 ma ) will burn off a layer of cathode "crud" thereby restoring normal beam current.  however.......,
cathode material has a finite life. eventually, the emitting material will be depleated . nothing further can be done short of replacing the gun assembly .  this is called a rebuilt tube .,or grade B crt



qrz

--- End quote ---

IDK if this pertains to just a single gun but it sounds close. If not, feh.

kayoteq:
Hmm.. quite possible, but I'm really suspecting the connector. The easiest fix, relatively. Spares a plenty, though- I still have several chassis/ tubes to fix up. After all, this was junk from the parking lot of an ops.. So I'll give that a try if the connector reflow doesn't do it. Like with the red, though- it seems the tube has the capacity when I turn up the brightness, just not the signal. Once it's warm though, dead on color-wise and stays that way. Seems like I'd have uneven color- it's 0% then on like it never was missing it.

Yeah, the PCB seems quite reliable for the moment. My Gravitar, however, still gives me score/fuel in hexadecimal at times. quite strange.
Probably some maths chip..  these manuals are incredibly detailed. More like some study book for a EE degree than a games manual.
In the meantime, I spent the weekend and over $50 replacing 2 different brand internet routers that lasted a year apiece. This is progress?

Mauzy:
So whatever happened with the monitor situation?

kayoteq:
Sorry, was away for a week. Haven't done anything with the monitor yet,
but the plan is to take the chassis board out and reflow the connectors and everything else accessible.
That, and rebuilding one of the spares and swapping it out.  But the simple stuff first.

Mauzy:
Good plan. Let us all know how it goes.

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