Gorf restoration

[Spyridon]

Today I used some 220 grit sandpaper to go over the first coat of primer.  After sanding I used the air hose to blow away any dust left from the sandpaper, followed by a wipe down with a tack cloth to make sure I got it all.  I then hit it with the second coat.  I went with a vertical spray pattern on this coat since I used a horizontal spray for the first coat.





You can't even see the big scratch that was in the interior side anymore.

Before and After:


Paint is extremely smooth.  I think that will be the last coat of primer and now onto the main color!

[WunderCade]

Man, you got this! 

It looks good bro.

[Spyridon]

Man, you got this! 

It looks good bro.

Thanks for your help.  Excellent suggestions and I've been following all of them.

[WunderCade]

No problem.

One other thing I did....at this phase in my painting, I was having trouble seeing the new spray as I was spraying over the dried primer (it's white on white), so I found it very helpful to add a tiny bit of the blue paint to the primer to just tint it a little, not much. Then I was able to see the coat I was spraying against the previous coat. It worked great.   

[JeepMonkey]

WunderCade - Nice tip.

Should I be concerned / jealous at the amount of enjoyment I get from seeing a well primered bit of plywood?  Your results with your lack of experience gives me hope for my own cab.

[Spyridon]

Should I be concerned / jealous at the amount of enjoyment I get from seeing a well primered bit of plywood?  Your results with your lack of experience gives me hope for my own cab.

No concern at all.  Just wait until you have one of these primered beautie sitting in your garage.  It gets even better.

[tafische]

Did you fill in the scratches with anything (bondo, putty, etc) or did the primer fill it in enough that it hides them?

[Spyridon]

Did you fill in the scratches with anything (bondo, putty, etc) or did the primer fill it in enough that it hides them?

I used Bondo on the scratches.  Primer alone won't do it.

[Spyridon]

Oil and water don't mix.   That is the lesson for today. 

Last night I began the process of spraying the black interior section of the cab.  I pulled out the Rustoleum black satin paint and noticed that it was an eanmal paint.  This paint had been recommended for the black so I didn't give the type much thought.  At this point I though, Hmmm....I don't think I can thin this with water. 



Well, since I didn't haven anything else to mix it with and not wanting to make a trip to Lowe's, I gave it a shot.  Sure enough, my old 5th grade experiment still holds true.  Oil and water don't mix.  I ended up with some sludge with most of the water floating on top.   

Okay, plan B.  I search around to see if I have anything to thin this paint with.  I have laquer thinner, but the can specifically states not to use it.  I finally found a bottle of "paint thinner".  Doesn't say anywhere on the bottle what is actually in it, but I'll give it a shot. 



Success, it mixes well and I have a nice thinned black paint.  Time to spray the cab. 

I begin the painting process and then quickly realize that I need to tape off the exterior parts.    Doh!  I was in too much of a hurry to see the next color go on.  Okay, put the spray can down, get out the newspaper and tape and start covering the external pieces.



Done.  Hope my paint didn't harden up on me. 

Sprayed the cab and all went well.

Now time for the clean up.  What a pain in the --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules--!  I will be using all latex paints from now on.  Thankfully, I had my can of laquer thinner to clean up, but what a mess.  Wife wasn't happy when I used the industrial sink in the laundrey room.  Smelled up the whole area and I still have black paint in the sink.  Well eventually, I got the spray gun cleaned.  I really hope that one coat of black paint is good enough.  I really don't want to go through that again.

[Spyridon]

Got a better look at the paint job today.  Turned out pretty nice with one issue.




Very smooth.  The side above is the one that had the deep scratch in it (see pics a few posts above).  Can't tell it was ever there.

Okay, here's the one issue I have.  I didn't completely cover one of the areas.  I wouldn't be too worried about it if I was doing a second coat like I planned.  Here is the area:

You can see it is a little spotty in that area.  I'm considering leaving it as is to avoid having to clean up that paint again.

[WunderCade]

Oil paint over water based primer = problem.

Wish I would've caught you earlier, but what happens is that the latex breathes and is flexible...and draws out moisture. You can put latex paint over oil primer, but not the other way around. Just make sure now that your cab is never outside or in a moist area or an area where temps significantly fluctuate.

Also, for that black Rustoleum Enamel, you'd use mineral spirits for clean up.

[JeepMonkey]

Sorry to hear about the unfortunate situation.  I will be reviewing my plans now.  We might need to get a paint sticky somewhere.

[Spyridon]

Oil paint over water based primer = problem.

Wish I would've caught you earlier, but what happens is that the latex breathes and is flexible...and draws out moisture. You can put latex paint over oil primer, but not the other way around. Just make sure now that your cab is never outside or in a moist area or an area where temps significantly fluctuate.

Didn't even think of that issue over the primer.  It will be inside in a controled environment so hopefully it will be okay.  I've been thinking about hitting it with another coat.  Do you think making it that much thicker would make it worse?  I can live with it as is if so.

[Spyridon]

Sorry to hear about the unfortunate situation.  I will be reviewing my plans now.  We might need to get a paint sticky somewhere.

Well hopefully it will bo okay.  Only way to learn is to get in there and do it.  I'll know better for the next one.

[Wade]

Oil paint over water based primer = problem.

Wish I would've caught you earlier, but what happens is that the latex breathes and is flexible...and draws out moisture. You can put latex paint over oil primer, but not the other way around. Just make sure now that your cab is never outside or in a moist area or an area where temps significantly fluctuate.

Didn't even think of that issue over the primer.  It will be inside in a controled environment so hopefully it will be okay.  I've been thinking about hitting it with another coat.  Do you think making it that much thicker would make it worse?  I can live with it as is if so.

If it makes you feel any better, my stenciled Moon Patrol had a latex base coat, got stencilled with oil rattle cans, then got a sprayed heavy clear coat of Polycrylic.  Haven't had any problems with the mix of paint types.

Wade

[Spyridon]

If it makes you feel any better, my stenciled Moon Patrol had a latex base coat, got stencilled with oil rattle cans, then got a sprayed heavy clear coat of Polycrylic.  Haven't had any problems with the mix of paint types.

Yes, it does make me feel better.   

[Spyridon]

I decided to bite the bullet and put another coat of black paint on.  I've put too much work into this to not fix that bad paint section.  Picked up some minearal spirits to help with the clean up this time.  Paint went on fine and clean up wasn't too bad.  Still a pain in the --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- compared to latex but not too bad.  (Except for smelling up the house again)

Before painting, I went over the first coat with 220 grit sandpaper.

Left and right side with second coat:


Next I prepped the bottom section for the first coat of grey paint.  I masked off the back section which will get hit with the blue color.


I got the paint color codes off of someone on the KLOV site that had computer matched it.  Unfortunately, when I took those codes to Sherwin Williams, the base color was a type that they no longer carry.  He said the one he used should be fine.  Well it wasn't.  I could see right from when he put it in the can that it was way too dark.  I tried a sample of it on my cab and confirmed that it was way too dark.   I decided to take the entire bottom of the cab in to get it matched.  Before I carried (pulled on the hand truck actually) into the store, I asked the girl if she could match something of that size.  She said yes, and I asked her again if the sensor can be moved off of the desktop because the piece is pretty large.  She said no problem.  I pulled it in and by the look on her face, I knew she couldn't do it.  I guess my explanation including exact dimensions was too much for the (possibly teenage) girl.  Anyway, we did pull out the paint samples and matched one by eye as close as we could.  

Here is the paint I used (Latex!!!!!):



After thinning with some water, it sprayed on with no problems.

Here is an in process shot that shows you the color difference:


And the completed first coat:



Color looks to be a real good match and clean up was two minutes with some water  .  One more coat and I should be ready for the blue!

[JeepMonkey]

Oil paint over water based primer = problem.

If you use an oil based paint what type of primer are you supossed to use?  I just realized that my paint is oil based and my primer is water based (both still unused).

[WunderCade]

Oil paint over water based primer = problem.

If you use an oil based paint what type of primer are you supossed to use?  I just realized that my paint is oil based and my primer is water based (both still unused).

You use oil based primer for oil paint.

But since you have the water base primer, just use waterbase paint. Todays latex paints are excellent, just go to Sherwin Williams and use their best latex. Clean up is way easier and you dilute with water. Just my preference...others may differ.

[Spyridon]

But since you have the water base primer, just use waterbase paint. Todays latex paints are excellent, just go to Sherwin Williams and use their best latex. Clean up is way easier and you dilute with water. Just my preference...others may differ.

I agree 1000 percent!  Go with latex and save the clean up headaches.

[Spyridon]

While waiting for the paint to dry, I got started on a cap kit on the monitor.  This will be my first attempt at doing a cap kit and really, my first use of a soldering iron.

This video posted by KLOV member p1899m on youtube was very helpful:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3EEPLjJeXg[/youtube]

Monitor is a Wells Gardner K4600 model.  The first step was to try and figure out how to get the chasis off to work on. Took a while to figure out what to unscrew but I got it to a point I could work on it. 



Here is the general process.

Step 1: Locate the cap to be replaced.  In this example it is cap C311 (upper left)

Step 2: Desolder and remove the old cap.  I tried using the desoldering braid as shown in the video but wasn't having any success.  I switched to a solder sucker and that worked really well

Step 3: Locate the replacement cap.  Insert, making sure to allign the positive and negative correctly.  Bend the legs back to hold it in place

Step 4: Solder in the new cap

Step 5: Trim off the excess legs


Wash, rinse, repeat.

The photos above were from my first cap.  I did get better using the solder as I went along.  Here is the finished auxilary board:

Not sure why the kit didn't come with a replacement for one of the caps (grey colored one), but I checked another 4600 kit I had and it also did not include it.  I also replaced one resistor on the board that was included in the kit.  I didn't know that resistors went bad over time like the caps?

I continued on to the main board and with just 3 caps remaining, I noticed this:

Here it is from the top:

 
I looked  back to my original photos and the crack was present when I started.  It may have gotten slightly worse as the board was moved around. Here is the original shot before I started working on the caps:


The monitor was working when I pulled it and I don't think I caused this when taking the monitor out.  Anyone know if this is a problem?  I know it can't be a good thing, but the monitor was working.  I would guess I need to run some new tracers but why did it work before?


Well, after that dissapointing discovery, I did finish up the last of the caps:



I was worried about doing the cap kit, but it was pretty easy.  (maybe I shouldn't say that until I know it works)

[Level42]

Resistors don't go bad over time. They can burn out when something else goes wrong in the circuit though, and if it's a common failure, those kits often include these resistors.

Don't know if you used it already, but my golden trick to get those old solderings flowing quickly and easy is applying a little bit of new solder first. The flux in the new solder will make the old soldering flow much quicker so you don't have to apply the heat of the iron for too long.

About the break: did you measure it ? The copper could be intact (on a tiny spot maybe) so I guess that's why it still works. I would surely jumper it anyway (take a pretty heavy gauge wire, that's a wide track) .

[Spyridon]

Resistors don't go bad over time. They can burn out when something else goes wrong in the circuit though, and if it's a common failure, those kits often include these resistors.

That makes sense. 

Don't know if you used it already, but my golden trick to get those old solderings flowing quickly and easy is applying a little bit of new solder first. The flux in the new solder will make the old soldering flow much quicker so you don't have to apply the heat of the iron for too long.

Didn't try that, but I did put some flux on the iron each time.  Seemed to work pretty well.

About the break: did you measure it ? The copper could be intact (on a tiny spot maybe) so I guess that's why it still works. I would surely jumper it anyway (take a pretty heavy gauge wire, that's a wide track) .

How do I measure it? 

I'll pick up some heavy wire and jumper it.  Should I put some silicon or something over the crack to keep it from expanding?

[Spyridon]

About the break: did you measure it ? The copper could be intact (on a tiny spot maybe) so I guess that's why it still works. I would surely jumper it anyway (take a pretty heavy gauge wire, that's a wide track) .

Okay, I did figure out how to measure it using my meter.  The copper must still be intact as I am getting reading at all points across the break.  I'll still jumper it to be safe.

[Spyridon]

Another problem with the monitor.  I noticed this today:


The width coils on these are very fragile and it looks like I cracked this one.  I'll need to find a replacement.  Bob Roberts has a good tutorial on transplanting these.  Hopefully he still has some replacements available.

[Level42]

About the break: did you measure it ? The copper could be intact (on a tiny spot maybe) so I guess that's why it still works. I would surely jumper it anyway (take a pretty heavy gauge wire, that's a wide track) .

Okay, I did figure out how to measure it using my meter.  The copper must still be intact as I am getting reading at all points across the break.  I'll still jumper it to be safe.

Sorry should have replied a bit quicker Yeah good thinking. Not sure if you will need to "support" the PCB in any way to prevent the crack from going further. Can't think of a good way to do that...

[Spyridon]

Not sure if you will need to "support" the PCB in any way to prevent the crack from going further. Can't think of a good way to do that...

I was worried about that as well.  Maybe I can cut a piece of PCB from an old PC I have lying around somewhere and glue it onto the component side of the board above the crack.  Not sure what to use to glue it.

[WunderCade]

This is quite primitive and probably smelly, but maybe you should try melting a plastic spoon or fork along the break, not sure if it will stick though.

[Spyridon]

Bob Roberts has a good tutorial on transplanting these.  Hopefully he still has some replacements available.

Good news.  Bob Roberts has some of these in stock.  Ordered one today.

[Wade]

Not sure if you will need to "support" the PCB in any way to prevent the crack from going further. Can't think of a good way to do that...

I was worried about that as well.  Maybe I can cut a piece of PCB from an old PC I have lying around somewhere and glue it onto the component side of the board above the crack.  Not sure what to use to glue it.

The cracks don't usually get worse if the board is not stressed, and it shouldn't be.  After soldering in the patch wires, I'd just put some high temp hot glue across the crack or just leave it as it is.

Wade

[Spyridon]

Second and final coat of grey paint is done. 



Next up...the blue paint!

Getting close to being able to reassemble everything.  Can't wait to play Gorf again.

[DrumAnBass]

Awesome restoration! You are really sweating the details; this is going to be like a brand new machine once you finish...! Great information too.

 

[Spyridon]

Awesome restoration! You are really sweating the details; this is going to be like a brand new machine once you finish...! Great information too.

 

Thanks for the comments.

I masked off the base for the blue paint yesterday.  Hopefully I'll find some time to spray it today or tomorrow.

[ChadTower]

I agree with above... the crack isn't an issue if you jump it and put some glue in place.  I'd use superglue or an epoxy rather than hot glue.  Hot glue is sort of flexible and may not secure a crack like that.  Probably doesn't matter though as it's not a moving part.

[Spyridon]

I agree with above... the crack isn't an issue if you jump it and put some glue in place.  I'd use superglue or an epoxy rather than hot glue.  Hot glue is sort of flexible and may not secure a crack like that.  Probably doesn't matter though as it's not a moving part.

That sounds like a good suggestion.  I was holding off until I got a chance to pick up a hot glue gun, but if superglue works, I have that in stock.

[Spyridon]

Black and grey are now masked off and the cab is ready for the blue paint.

[Spyridon]

Did the first coat of blue today, but it didn't go to well.  First the paint was too thick and I was just getting splatters out of the gun.  I added more water and still the same.  Did this two more times and finally got a good spray pattern.  The problem was that at this point, it was too watery.  It's only the first coat and I was planning on lightly sanding after this coat as well so I'm not too upset.  I may just need to do some more sanding than planned and maybe need a third coat.

Hopefully I can figure out the water to paint ratio and get it right for the next coat.  (still learning)

Here is the paint I used:

The good news is that the color looks great.  The paint codes were provided by a KLOV user that had gotten it computer matched. 




Another issue I see is where I had used the blue painters tape to mask off when I painted the black.  It must have left some residue behind as I can see exactly where it was all around the cab.  Sanding it down should fix it.

[Spyridon]

While the paint was drying, I went back to work on the monitor.

First order of business was to add some jumpers around the cracked area.  I used a combination of methods that had been suggested.  I used one of the left over legs from one of the caps for the short jump and some 30 gauge wire for the longer one.

Here is the wire I used:


and here is the board with the jumpers:

Does it look okay?

I also picked up some loctite glue and added it to the cracked area on the component side.  It should be strong enough to just make sure it doesn't crack anymore.

[Spyridon]

Next step was to replace the broken width coil.

I ordered a replacement from Bob Roberts:


To remove the old coil, I used a dril to remove the rivets that were holding it in place.


Here is the new one in place.  Old one is still attached.  Next I have to swap the wires and I'm good to go.

[Spyridon]

New coil has been soldered in.


Chasis has been put back together.  I need to pull the pictures to make sure I've got everything back together.