| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| Gorf restoration |
| << < (35/49) > >> |
| Spyridon:
She Lives!!!!!! :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: I swaped in the new board set I got and she fired right up. I'll start swapping boards when I get time later to try and figure out what happened with the original boards. Just needs the side art to really finish her off! This board set was pulled from a cocktail, so one issue I have to figure out is how to stop the picture from flipping on player 2. I don't see a dip switch for cocktail mode. |
| MaximRecoil:
--- Quote from: Level42 on August 06, 2008, 04:08:38 pm ---If you'll be in this hobby, you're going to need a good soldering device. Although it doesn't need to be a metcal. --- End quote --- No one thinks they need a Metcal until they try one. ;) Here's a post I came across on a newsgroup a while ago which sums it up pretty well: --- Quote ---I couldn't agree more. Metcal irons are miraculous. If you haven't tried one, you haven't been enjoying soldering. It took me months to talk my new employer into trying one. In less time than that, we now have them all over the company. :) One assembler called it a 'dream iron'. Yes, they're *that* good. Those of you who work with your soldering station switched on most or all of the day really owe it to yourselves to try one. They're expensive, but well worth the money if you solder a good deal. For fine pitch work, they're not merely a luxury -- once you try one you'll be hooked. --- End quote --- I finally got a Metcal of my own, the same model I used to use when I worked at the PCB factory. Anyway, Spyridon, did you get your soldering sorted out? As others pointed out, you had some goose-pooping going on there. A low wattage iron combined with being new to soldering tends to give results like that. You want your through-hole fillets to be shiny and smooth, and be shaped like a Hershey's Kiss. Heat the pad and post from one side by pressing your iron down against both simultaneously, and then feed the solder wire (use flux core 60/40, or better yet, 63/37; ~.025" diameter works well for most PCB soldering) in from the other side, pressing it into the pad and post in a steady motion (not into the iron; the heated pad and post will melt the solder); then pull the iron and solder wire away at the same time when you have enough solder in there. Also, until ThisOldGame gets the authentic style of coin door plates made, have you thought about applying the ArcadeShop sticker to the top of the original plate, and then installing the plate with original-style rivets to the coin door? That would at least retain the look of an actual riveted metal plate rather than just a sticker. |
| Spyridon:
--- Quote from: MaximRecoil on September 10, 2008, 01:24:25 am ---Anyway, Spyridon, did you get your soldering sorted out? As others pointed out, you had some goose-pooping going on there. A low wattage iron combined with being new to soldering tends to give results like that. You want your through-hole fillets to be shiny and smooth, and be shaped like a Hershey's Kiss. Heat the pad and post from one side by pressing your iron down against both simultaneously, and then feed the solder wire (use flux core 60/40, or better yet, 63/37; ~.025" diameter works well for most PCB soldering) in from the other side, pressing it into the pad and post in a steady motion (not into the iron; the heated pad and post will melt the solder); then pull the iron and solder wire away at the same time when you have enough solder in there. --- End quote --- I did pick up the Weller soldering station discussed earlier in this thread. Good advice on the soldering tips above. I've got three monitors sitting waiting for cap kits to be done, so I'll be using the new iron and your advice soon. I think I just need more practice. --- Quote ---Also, until ThisOldGame gets the authentic style of coin door plates made, have you thought about applying the ArcadeShop sticker to the top of the original plate, and then installing the plate with original-style rivets to the coin door? That would at least retain the look of an actual riveted metal plate rather than just a sticker. --- End quote --- That's a good idea, unfortunately, the original plate was destroyed in the removal process. I wasn't trying to be gentle with it and I didn't think about applying the sticker over it. Hopefully the metal replacement plates will be done soon (yeah, I've been saying that for a while). |
| ChadTower:
That looks really good. |
| Spyridon:
--- Quote from: Spyridon on September 09, 2008, 10:12:44 pm ---This board set was pulled from a cocktail, so one issue I have to figure out is how to stop the picture from flipping on player 2. I don't see a dip switch for cocktail mode. --- End quote --- Okay, I figured out how to switch between cocktail mode and upright mode. There is a jumper on the board that sets this up. If the jumper is in place, then cocktail mode is enabled. Here you see the cocktail board on the top and the upright on the bottom. JU1 is the culprit Instead of removing the jumper, I swaped in the board from my original set and it solved the cocktail issue. And now I know that board wasn't the problem in my original set. I'm also having a problem with the joystick. Once you let go, the ship moved down on its own. I'm going to pull the control panel and clean the optics with a q-tip and alcohol. I may also reflow the solder joints. |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |