| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| Gorf restoration |
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| Spyridon:
While waiting for the paint to dry, I got started on a cap kit on the monitor. This will be my first attempt at doing a cap kit and really, my first use of a soldering iron. This video posted by KLOV member p1899m on youtube was very helpful: [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3EEPLjJeXg[/youtube] Monitor is a Wells Gardner K4600 model. The first step was to try and figure out how to get the chasis off to work on. Took a while to figure out what to unscrew but I got it to a point I could work on it. Here is the general process. Step 1: Locate the cap to be replaced. In this example it is cap C311 (upper left) Step 2: Desolder and remove the old cap. I tried using the desoldering braid as shown in the video but wasn't having any success. I switched to a solder sucker and that worked really well Step 3: Locate the replacement cap. Insert, making sure to allign the positive and negative correctly. Bend the legs back to hold it in place Step 4: Solder in the new cap Step 5: Trim off the excess legs Wash, rinse, repeat. The photos above were from my first cap. I did get better using the solder as I went along. Here is the finished auxilary board: Not sure why the kit didn't come with a replacement for one of the caps (grey colored one), but I checked another 4600 kit I had and it also did not include it. I also replaced one resistor on the board that was included in the kit. I didn't know that resistors went bad over time like the caps? I continued on to the main board and with just 3 caps remaining, I noticed this: Here it is from the top: :hissy: I looked back to my original photos and the crack was present when I started. It may have gotten slightly worse as the board was moved around. Here is the original shot before I started working on the caps: The monitor was working when I pulled it and I don't think I caused this when taking the monitor out. Anyone know if this is a problem? I know it can't be a good thing, but the monitor was working. I would guess I need to run some new tracers but why did it work before? Well, after that dissapointing discovery, I did finish up the last of the caps: I was worried about doing the cap kit, but it was pretty easy. (maybe I shouldn't say that until I know it works) |
| Level42:
Resistors don't go bad over time. They can burn out when something else goes wrong in the circuit though, and if it's a common failure, those kits often include these resistors. Don't know if you used it already, but my golden trick to get those old solderings flowing quickly and easy is applying a little bit of new solder first. The flux in the new solder will make the old soldering flow much quicker so you don't have to apply the heat of the iron for too long. About the break: did you measure it ? The copper could be intact (on a tiny spot maybe) so I guess that's why it still works. I would surely jumper it anyway (take a pretty heavy gauge wire, that's a wide track) . |
| Spyridon:
--- Quote from: Level42 on July 18, 2008, 02:16:21 am ---Resistors don't go bad over time. They can burn out when something else goes wrong in the circuit though, and if it's a common failure, those kits often include these resistors. --- End quote --- That makes sense. --- Quote ---Don't know if you used it already, but my golden trick to get those old solderings flowing quickly and easy is applying a little bit of new solder first. The flux in the new solder will make the old soldering flow much quicker so you don't have to apply the heat of the iron for too long. --- End quote --- Didn't try that, but I did put some flux on the iron each time. Seemed to work pretty well. --- Quote ---About the break: did you measure it ? The copper could be intact (on a tiny spot maybe) so I guess that's why it still works. I would surely jumper it anyway (take a pretty heavy gauge wire, that's a wide track) . --- End quote --- How do I measure it? I'll pick up some heavy wire and jumper it. Should I put some silicon or something over the crack to keep it from expanding? |
| Spyridon:
--- Quote from: Level42 on July 18, 2008, 02:16:21 am ---About the break: did you measure it ? The copper could be intact (on a tiny spot maybe) so I guess that's why it still works. I would surely jumper it anyway (take a pretty heavy gauge wire, that's a wide track) . --- End quote --- Okay, I did figure out how to measure it using my meter. The copper must still be intact as I am getting reading at all points across the break. I'll still jumper it to be safe. |
| Spyridon:
Another problem with the monitor. I noticed this today: The width coils on these are very fragile and it looks like I cracked this one. I'll need to find a replacement. Bob Roberts has a good tutorial on transplanting these. Hopefully he still has some replacements available. |
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