Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Farb's Donkey Kong Restore *COMPLETED*
Farb:
LOL -- it's always better to have clear goals :) I already feel the urge to get my score higher!
jimkirk:
--- Quote from: Farb on May 27, 2008, 11:41:09 am ---Below is a pic of the cam lock I removed from the coin door. It looks to me like it's 3/4" but all I really see mentioned on the board is 5/8" and 7/8". Am I reading the length wrong or is this an oddball lock? Any idea where I can find a replacement?
->Dan
--- End quote ---
Yes that is a 3/4'' lock. I used a 5/8'' lock with straight cam lever on my DK. I have a 5/8'' lock with a tubular type key you can have free,just pay shipping or you can check local hardware stores for one.Let me know if you want the lock.
Farb:
I've replaced both the joystick restrictor plate and the buttons with items from mikesarcade.com. The restrictor plate works great and the joystick now operates the way it should. The buttons, as others have said, are not quite the correct color, but otherwise work great.
I've also replaced the starter lamp and bulb in the marquee fluorescent ballast with the following parts from topbulb.com:
Item Number: FG-7E (starter)
Item Number: FL-10D (bulb)
It's good to see the marquee lighting up!
->Dan
Farb:
I've removed one side of the art (the really faded one). It came off easily with a blow dryer, however, it did leave a lot of gummy residue. A little work with Goof Off took care of it nicely, though. You can see how yellowed the laminate/paint is in the pic below. Also attached is a pic of the replacement bezel from arcadeshop.com.
->Dan
Farb:
I received my CPO reproduction plexi and instruction card from tntamusements.com today. I took the opportunity to completely disassemble and clean the joystick using WD-40. It managed to come pretty clean and I lubed the ball joint with some bicycle lube. It now returns to center cleanly whereas it used to get stuck to the right periodically before.
I reassembled the CP and replaced the missing bolts with new ones from mikesarcade.com. The new plexi overlay is a little thicker than the original, so I had to adjust the button switches so they get triggered properly.
The black on the CPO needs to be touched up and the t-molding on the front needs replacing, but otherwise, the CP practically looks new. Anyone have any idea what kind of t-molding is used on the front of the CP? It looks thinner than the rest of the cabinet.
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