Pentranic 1132 (CH-288) No Picture & Chirping - [FIXED!!!!!!]

[gokun]

First let me once more send my sincere regards to the experts here(and for those keeping score at home, the nanao I was helped with a while back is still running great I'm happy to report). 
That being said, the monitor gods apparently hate my guts because now my large monitor(the pentanic mentioned in subject line) has gone out on me....as before, I know very little about monitors, but am familiar with basic electronics(can fix pcbs, etc.) so be sure to use small words that I can understand ...the story:
Well, ironically enough, there was no defining event that caused this to happen; it simply worked one minute and not the next. I was working on converting a positional uzi by snk to work on my steel gunner 2 board...was working fine but had hooked up the U/D & L/R incorreclty, so turn it off and go fix that...come back turn it back on...chirping with no picture...everything I was doing was at the harness level however and nowhere near the internals of the monitor so I seriously doubt this had anything to do with it as I'm pretty familiar with boards(just not monitors)and again it's a positional uzi so it has no direct line to the monitor or anything like that...monitor ust blew out on its own in other words, which I suppose is no great shock as once I got it open it was marked as being made in august '97...at any rate, it says it's a model 1132 on the sticker, however there is also a marking on the board which reads: CH-288. The monitor sticker(on the tube itself) says: A80PNT29X...It's either a 29" or 33" (haven't measured it lately and it isn't marked on it anywhere, but as memory serves, it's a 29"...I think...)Ok, so that's as much as I can do as far as identifying the monitor/chasis...
The symptom:
Well as soon as you power on the monitor begins a regular, constant chirping sound...you can, of course, hear the games loading & Running, but no display at all, and though I cannot tell for certain, seems like it's not even turning on....just chirping with no picture...
Things I noticed(may or may not be helpful):
The "tube" thing on the back of the monitor(the yoke?) does not appear to glow at all...I noticed this because it does glow on my other 3 monitors when they are turned on....the chirping definately seems to be coming from this general area as well(cannot pinpoint it exactly)...
the onboard fuse is not blown so nothing that simple(damnit!)....
There is 1 capacitor (the orange, round kind) that seems to have a small black "spot" or "chip" on the top of it...but could 1 tiny capacitor in a non-important looking location really cause this? I've had boards with capacitors chipped much worse than this and they still worked fine...
Also, something I noticed that I thought was odd...there was a small string of glue going from one of the heat sinks down to the tube thingy(the one that isn't glowing)...this in and of itself wasn't weird as I understand the glue is added at the factory, etc....what was odd to me was that the string would pulse in perfect time with the chirping...reinforcing my suspicion that the chirping originates in this area...
What else....uh.....well, I've read on the boards so far that a likely culprit is the HOT(?) but the problem is I dunno what this is or where to find it....also read you can disconnect it and connect a light bulb to test it...but again, without knowing where or what it is, I cannot do this, so I suppose a good place to start would be to let me know what I'm looking for here(honestly I have my suspicions but I'm just too afraid to touch anything without knowing for certain what it is first)...
Have also read it could be a power problem? But again, not sure how to test for this on a monitor...so could use some help there too...
So that's all I know and the theories I'm leaning towards at present...if someone could help get me started testing these things(or giving me other options to test out) I would GREALTY appreciate it....I have a MVC2 on the way and wanted to put it in this cab I could cry!
So thanks in advance and I really hope someone can help out.

[qrz]

check for a shorted horiz output transistor and/or vert output ic.
a cycling chirp is indicative of the smps attempting to supply power under a high load condition.

qrz

[gokun]

Ok...the HOT is the one connected to the metal thingy(don't you love my technical jargon?) where the monitor power is, correct? According to what I've read, that should be it and is the most likely culprit here(I hope)...
but I have not located the vertical output IC yet...there are 3 that I'm debating on being it right now, and will know for sure by tomorrow as I'm very obsessive compulsive.
Anyhoo, will not be able to test either until tomorrow night as I will have to get the board out to be able to access these components...
and I will have to discharge the monitor prior to that, correct? It has instructions on it on how to do that, so I believe I can if needed...
Anyhoo, will post an update after I've had the chance to test those components...
in the meantime, all opinions, suggestions, advice, etc. is more than welcomed...thanks!

[EDIT 1]
Ok, so in anticipation of having to take this thing apart and have my way with it(after all, it can't really be more broken...it's either broken or it's not, so I figure I won't be mucking things up any worse by learning with it, and best case scenario, I can even maybe fix it)...so I've been reading up on discharging both here and elsewhere...

my monitor actually says on the back of the tube:"warning: to discharge monitor short anode lead to grounded rimband." which I'm thinking is basically the screwdriver method, right? So exactly how much of a spark would I possibly get from this? as in how far back from the thing should I be as a minimum when doing this? full arm's length plus screwdriver length(e.g. as far away as humanly possible?) or can I be nearby it?

[grantspain]

you can get the schems for this on pentranic's site,all you need to do is register

[qrz]

horiz ouyput xistors are usually a  2sc prefix (like a 2sc4742)  , and a few 2sd #'s on the lower frequency units.
vert outputs are usually a la or tda prefix . but, there ARE exceptions like matsushita's an5521, etc....

unless ur planning on disconecting the anode lead , discharging isn't that critical . just remember, there COULD be
considerable voltage there and treat it accordingly......

qrz

[grantspain]

the pentranic use phillips bu2520,
beware with these as I and a few other techs have had serious problems with all phillips deflection transistors recently
i tend to cross reference to a toshiba transistor like 2sc5422

[Rickn]

Go to my website... www.niemandisplays.com download from CRT based products the CGA/standard schematic. Next measure the HOT collector to ground (Q401- BU 2520).

A great trick. desolder and remove the HOT (Q401).... now connect a 60 watt bulb from collector to ground. If the bulb lights as normal, check the volyage at the cathode of d501, should be somewhere between 113 and 130 volts DC depends on the tube used. If so power supply is fine.

Then the problem is likely in the horizontal circuit ... again Q401, but if not check electrolytics on that line especialy C313 and C501.

Good luck

Rick Nieman
www.niemandisplays.com
rick@niemandisplays.com

[qrz]

the pentranic use phillips bu2520,
beware with these as I and a few other techs have had serious problems with all phillips deflection transistors recently
i tend to cross reference to a toshiba transistor like 2sc5422

FYI, Grant.  there seems to be more and more counterfeit semiconductors showing up at "bargain" part suppliers,
and china seems to be the biggest offending source - go fig   
so, best to know by whom and where ur replacements are mfg'd  !!!!

qrz

[grantspain]

i bought my last batch from farnells in the u.k,i only use major suppliers as i work for an international company so we have accounts with a few large european component suppliers
i returned the entire batch after the sixth failure and they sent some more with the same result-bu2520 and bu2727
now i don't bother with phillips and only buy toshiba,its difficult enough to diagnose a problem let alone deal with substandard components

[gokun]

Ok...so I discharged the monitor, got the boards out and all ok and am in the process of checking things out now. I've started with your recommendations and checked capacitors 313 and 503 and the HOT.
The capacitors seem to be ok, but the HOT seems like it might be faulty...but I'm not sure I am testing correctly here...could someone go over the test procedure with me please so I can be sure I'm reading it right? TIA!
Assuming it is, in fact, bad, I will order a new one(the toshiba one recommended)...in the meantime I'm just going to continue checking components on the boards to be safe. On the bright side, no noticeable damage, burn marks, etc. anywhere.
So aside from verifying that I'm testing the HOT correctly, does it sound like I'm on the right track here?
Thanks again for any and all help!
[Edit]
Forgot to mention, I tried the lightbulb thing and it did light up, proper voltage, etc...so that should mean no power problems hopefully.

BTW: Rick, could you please give me a quote on a replacement crt in case I can't fix this one? Thanks!

[qrz]

a DMM with a diode test is quite handy here . if the xistor is shorted , there will be a low ohm reading from collector to ground . bear in mind the xistor suffix is important as there are several versions . a bu2520 does NOT have an internal damper diode and base/emitter resistor whereas the bu2520d does . see  www.alldatasheet.com
with no internal resistor, the base emitter junction should test like a diode . with the resistor, it will have less than
100 ohms b/e.  with no damper diode , there should a good diode test c/b and open c/e. with a damper , there should be good b/c and reversed c/e.....
fyi, the 2sc5422 does NOT have a damper or base resistor.

qrz

[gokun]

exactly what I needed to know! many thanks!! Will let you know the results tomorrow after I've had a chance to check it out.

[grantspain]

obviously it is important to match the transistor exactly,i was being general

[gokun]

actually it's good you mention it because I hadn't really realized it yet being scatter-brained as I am. 
Anyways, turns out the HOT is indeed bad, so I've ordered a new one of those(I found the phillips one like what was in it on ebay cheap so got one there to try out..course now i'm paranoid I still got the wrong one....lol!)...but of course will take a bit for it to arrive. Haven't found anything else wrong as far as capacitors and resistors, but figure I'll check again just to be sure since I have some time to kill now waiting on the new part. Will update you all on my progress once I get the new HOT in place,etc. thanks again!

[qrz]

the next question would be why did it fail ?
there could be an issue with the fly , timing caps in the sweep or even a yoke problem.
if it fails again qiuckly , these areas should be checked .....
and BEWARE of semiconductor fakes.....many times bargan parts aren't such a bargan. KNOW THE SOURCE !

qrz

[grantspain]

quite a common fault on pentanics,also worth noting that the high voltage cap on the collector can be blown

[gokun]

Ok, well I verified everything as far as the HOT, and I had a BU2520DF in there originally and in addition to a few other types I got(just in case) at the time I got one of these too which is supposed to be legit as far as I can tell(but still ebay so you never know)...at any rate, I'm happy to report I'm getting at least 1 of the proper replacement part. Will let you all know how fast it explodes once I get it and install it ;p

[gokun]

Hey guys....unfortunately the new HOT did not fix the problem....while the chirping DID become noticeably less frequent(e.g. it's chirps slower now than before) it is still, alas, not working...
None of the other components I checked seemed bad(although obviously I do not know how to test the more complicated parts properly-but all the basic stuff like capacitors check out)...
if it makes a difference I was able to pinpoint where the sound is coming from...I think...it seems now to be coming directly from the anode suction cup(or very very near that area)...does that make sense to anyone or are my ears playing tricks on me?
At any rate, I'm open to ideas...thanks!

[qrz]

hv is likely pulsing in time with the smps. there is still something amiss in the circuitry - next component that can load the smps is the vert output ic. disconnect b+ to the chip and BRIEFLY ( i.e. < 5 seconds)  pwr it up.
if the supply comes up to voltage ( no ticks) then replace the ic.


qrz

[gokun]

ok,ok,ok...I know it's 2am but this whole affair has me really depressed so I feel obligated to keep at it....anyhoo, I need some clarification on something...I'm currently working under the assumption(based on things I've read,etc) that the FET, vert ic, etc. is on the small board in the back(attached to the back of the yoke? still not 100% on all the terminology)...is this correct?
I ask because after many, many hours of reading and researching, I found someone with a similar monitor(pentranic 33") with the exact same problem and the supposed solution was that he replaced the FET, IC and capacitors on "a small circuit board in the back." I'm assuming this is the one I mention as it has an IC, caps obviously, and what looks like the right type to be the FET....but again, I am new to monitors and the schematics are much more complicated and much harder for me to read than the PCB schematics I usually deal with...so I guess I'm looking for verification here(or to tell me I'm wrong before I muck something up).
Also worth mentioning is that the new HOT has not blown as of yet and I believe I misread the old one and that it is indeed still good as well(once I got the 2 new ones in I was able to do much better testing as I had a basis for comparison, which finally made it all make sense to me in regards to the HOT...I'm a designer by profession so I suppose I'm just a visual person by nature)...
anyways, back on the subject at hand, I would like to once more extend my thanks to everyone for all the help.
I'm still hopeful that maybe we can get this damn thing running again.

[grantspain]

the fet is q501(K1507-01)
vert ic is IC2(ha11235)
all on the main chassis,the fet is near where the mains input plug

[gokun]

thanks grantspain....I'm really struggling with this, so I appreciate the help.

[grantspain]

we always want to think that a repair is gonna be easy and 9 times outta 10 it is,seems like you got a bit of a difficult one-the advice is not to give up and follow the advice of the techs here

sometimes it is better to send for repair if you do not have the patience or experience

[gokun]

Honestly I have considered just taking it to someone locally and seeing what they can do, but I'll feel like a complete failure if I do that....so I'm going to take to heart your statement on patience and just keep at it for a while....after all I am never going to learn anything if I give up, right?
During my lunch break today I decided to take a fresh start at it and re-check all the capacitors again...this time I used a 25x magnifying lamp with a flourescent light around it (before I only used DMM and didn't do a very good visual inspection in my opinion)so I could see everything really really really well....and....
I think I found 2 blown capacitors after all....one is what appears to be the main one(400v 220uf biggest one in physical size on the board)...don't have the schematic in front of me right now, but plan on taking some pics tonight anyhoo so will update with the ID from the schematic then as well...at any rate, although it tests within tolerance on a DMM(well, as much as is possible at any rate), the top of it upon close inspection is bulging out, which I understand means it is toast...
now here's where I get confused again...there is another part, which looks similar to a capacitor except all it says on it is "25uH LL00015"....this is an inductor or something maybe?? it's almost like an hourglass shape, but it has ridges in it like it collapsed on itself or something...the ridges are irregular in appearance as well...
At any rate, there is copper visible(e.g. you can see the insides of it)through a small hole in the side, and towards the bottom there is more visible and it looks almost scratched or something...unfortunately it's up against another piece so will not be able to get a good look until tonight some time....sigh....and of course what I see may not turn out to be copper at all....who knows...
but I am going to post pics of the 2 parts to see what you guys think....I am fairly sure that the capacitor is bad, but have no idea on the other part....it just looks bad to my eyeballs...
also plan on doing the other suggested tests tonight or tomorrow on the vert ic, fet, etc. (thanks grantspain-I found them!)and will post my results....
so don't give up on me guys-I'm determined!

[Rickn]

So did you do anything as far as C313 and C501??

i would suggest that you change them both as they are likely leaky or off value.

yes I can quote you on a new board, but seemed like you were determined to find the problem and learn something... every day you learn something is a good day.

If you want a price e-mail me rick@niemandisplays.com-> be sure to give me a ship to address.

good Luck

Rick

[gokun]

Hi again;
Rick-Yes, I am taking your advice and replacing those caps just to be safe(new ones are already ordered). And while I am certainly determined, it is not unthinkable that this project could reach a point where I'm either too inexperienced or too frustrated to continue, which means shelving the monitor until later...should I reach that point, I would certainly be looking to get a new monitor from you, so be expecting an email tomorrow regarding that quote.

As to the monitor situation, I have the pics I promised earlier...all are clickable thumbnails which link to the big pics on imagevenue...
First one is a pic of the monitor doing its chirping thing...just took this to be sure there were no visible sparks, fireworks, etc...
 

Next pic is my "sketch" pic of the chasis board with the components I'm interested in marked where I think they are located....please be sure that I am looking at the right things(thanks!)...



And finally, the pic of the current suspects....c313, c501, L902(?) and the big cap(it's located near t501 but did not see a ID number around it...anyways, I have drawn arrows to the areas I feel are suspect, and if you look carefully you can tell that the big cap is leaning to one side(because of the bulge)...all these except that weird L902(?) part with the two rips in its casing are on order....but I need help identifying the weird part, and you guys' opinions as to if it looks bad or not....

[qrz]

per pic,
the "bulging cap" is the raw B+ filter cap. the plastic cap does tend to stick up a bit over time .
if the aluminum below this cap is not deformed , the cap may be ok.
the vert output ic is on a heatsink near the ha11235. (the ha11235 is the h/v osc ic )

qrz

[gokun]

doh! thanks very much for the clarification as usual!
Also, do you happen to know what model flyback would work on this should I have to replace it?
It seems the one that is on it is hard to find so was hoping to find an easier to locate compatible model...thanks for any help.

[qrz]

post the number off the fly and will search to find what subs may be available ( if any ? )

qrz

[gokun]

post the number off the fly and will search to find what subs may be available ( if any ? )

qrz

There is a white sticker over the main sticker which reads: model #: 1138
it is on top of what looks like the factory sticker...but after 11 years I don't think it's coming off without a fight...but if it helps, the chasis specs are on rodotron.com.tw (it's the ch-288)...is that helpful or should I keep looking? Let me know; thanks!

[EDIT]
Ok, according to info I found on another website, these things pretty much all use a MHF023-45 flyback. That should hopefully be a little more helpful.

[gokun]

Ok, so I got all my parts in and here is what I replaced...
all the caps on the board and neckboard...
the HOT....
the vert ic...
the horz/vert osc ic thiingy...
cleaned up any questionable solder points...

Alas, I still get the the same problem....chirp chirp chirp chirp chirp....starts slow then picks up to regular pattern....no neck glow, etc....all the same symptoms....guess I should consider myself lucky it didn't explode what with this being my first real attempt at a complex (for me) monitor repair...sigh...
so what does that leave? The flyback and yoke?
And if that is the case, I'm feeling that could make it a lot more trouble than it is worth considering I can't even find the flyback for sale anywhere...jeez...isn't my luck just grand?
so anyways, any more ideas here or am i totally screwed on this one?
thanks again!

[Arm123]

you should check out my thread, sounds like we have the same problem.   

[gokun]

I actually did read it...but mine is a definate chirping(like you would imagine a baby chic would make) and nothing ever burned. It literally worked one minute and not the next....sigh...but nonetheless I suppose they do sound somewhat related at the least...well, here is something I am just reading myself so take it with a grain of salt, however it comes from a good source....I'm going to paraphrase rather than quote because I'm pretty sure the author doesn't want his exact info(and all the details) posted and I don't want to disrespect someone trying to help me after all...so basically this is as detailed an explanation of what I'm reading as I'm allowed to give publicly...that being said...
in a nutshell, it says, r513 can often cause our symptoms(and a lot of others) due to B+ circuit going into over voltage....which not ironically is what some of the fellows here have implied to both of us...we are advised to change it out for a metal film one of at least 600mw or higher...
my own theory right this second(and bare in mind I'm still reading the new article and there is LOTS of info for me to still read)...is that I definately think it's in that stupid safety reset mode or whatever the hell it's called...both because of what I've read and what the guys here tell me....well, apparently there are only so many things that typically cause that to happen(most of which you and I have already replaced with the help of the guys here)...so since I can understand it's an overvoltage at this point, and this is apparently one of the common causes, I'm willing to try it and will let you know the results...but I have to order the part(all the shops around my area SUCK) so if you get a chance to test it out first please let me know the results as it will be at least a week before the part comes in for me...I really want to learn how to do this...REALLY bad...anyways, I will definately let you know if I find a solution as long as you promise to do the same for me. Sound fair?

[Arm123]

Yup...  Ill be posting my results this weekend.  I only have the chassis sitting here.  The tube and cabinet are about 40 miles away and ill be going there this Sat.

Ill make sure to fill you in on my results.   (fingers crossed) 

[Bad Man]

On a small sub board that is attached to the heat sink there are two capacitors that can cause that problem C511 and C512.

Good Luck .......

[gokun]

Thanks for the heads up Bad Man...one of them was, indeed, fried...decided to replace both just to be safe...
also replaced the resistor I mentioned earlier...unfortunately, I don't have 1 of the 2 caps on hand, nor do I have a replacement IC as of yet, so will be tomorrow before I will know the results of this(without the ic-next week with the ic)...Anyhoo, thanks for the advice and will keep everyone posted on my progress.

[Edit]
Just got in touch with Pentranic's tech dept, and they say to check d501 as well FYI
Just throwing this in for Arm123

[Arm123]

Thanks gokun.  Some great Pentranic information here.

Unfortunatly, i didnt get to go test my mods that i made this weekend.  I got too drunking on Sat night   

Ill update as soon as i am able to test.

[gokun]

Thanks gokun.  Some great Pentranic information here.

Unfortunatly, i didnt get to go test my mods that i made this weekend.  I got too drunking on Sat night   

Ill update as soon as i am able to test.

No worries; turns out I found a guy in town who cross-referenced the parts for me and got me what I needed so I have everything except the IC from the sub-power board(which is on order). I'm going to install after work tonight and see what happens...will let ya know.

[Rickn]

I think you may have already told me.... but I get a lot of e-mail and sometimes lose track.. Where are you located (for some reason I thought here in Canada, perhaps even Toronto??)

If so drop by and I will give you one of the small regulator board.

Good Luck

Rick

[gokun]

Unfortunately I am in the USA but I would be happy to paypal you the shipping or whatever, just msg me.
[Edit]
and if you're talking about the little sub power board(don't forget I'm still a noob to this so not up on all the terms) then it turns out I will definately be needing that after blowing mine up. So please get in touch. thanks!


**********************
Now for my update....after replacing everything I mentioned, I fired up the monitor and......
it worked for about 5-10 seconds before blowing the hell out of the transistor above the ic on the sub-power board....I'm thinking I replaced it with the wrong one...or maybe the diode I replaced? Definately looking for expert opinions here as far as proper part #s and specs for the stuff I replaced on the sub-power board and d501...I'm thinking maybe I replaced something with the wrong part? Opinions and advice please!
That being said I feel like I'm close provided the sub power board is not fried completely now (there was a small orange hadoken before I pulled the plug and the board appears a little burned, obviously)...but I figured I would give myself a break and wait until tomorrow evening before pulling the chassis back out again, etc. Also hoping to get some feedback first before I proceed...but like I said, at least it didn't chirp...it actually powered on normally, then blew the sub power(well, I say it powered on normally but perhaps I should say seemingly...you know that regular little hum noise you get when you turn on a working monitor before it displays? It did that....then blew).
So I guess that's better than nothing at all....or more of that damnable chirping-lol!
So there you have it as of right this minute...the saga continues...

[Edit]
Well, you shoulda known I could not resist at least looking at it....
parts that blew:
the fuse
the transistor above the IC on sub power
a leg of the IC on the sub power board
possibly r515 on sub power board(haven't checked-just eyeballing it)

the fuse is easy enough, so I need some part #s/specs on the rest to ensure I have the exact right parts on hand next time...and of course, still need the expert advice in general. TIA!

[Arm123]

Tonight i checked r513, C511, C512, d501 and all is well with those components.

Heres hoping i have some success   

[gokun]

Well, apparently my luck seems to be changing...the guy in town that I found is going to cross reference the remaining parts for me(or get me the exact ones if possible) so I won't have to worry about wrong parts anymore hopefully.

Also, Rick has very kindly offered to help me out(take a wild guess where I'll be getting my next monitor when the time comes^_~) so between the two I should have everything I need to finish this up.

I'm still convinced I put the wrong resistor on that sub power board as that is exactly the part that blew out...just my luck it got hot enough to fry some stuff around it too...crappy radio shack carbon resistor! (or crappy repairman-take your pick-lol!)

So I'm very hopeful that once I fix the sub power board it will fire back up again. Obviously I can't be 100% but it seems promising...anyways, should have most of what I need on Friday(the IC may not be in until next week) and once I make the fix will post another update...

In the meantime I have yet another question...just because I'm paranoid now...
would it hurt anything to use a much larger resistor? As in would it work properly that way or would it not?
Reason I ask is I have some pretty heavy duty ones leftover from another project and I was thinking maybe using one of those if it would work ok...but they are MUCH bigger resistors so I'm not sure...I've done it on some (non-monitor) boards and it's fine, but on others not so much....so what do you guys think? TIA!

[grantspain]

depending on the circuit as some resistors act as safety resistors
 for example hantarex use anti flame safety resistors,if you don't use the same type and wattage you can actually get a fire
this when you need to check schems and get like for like-same watts,same ohms,same type

[Arm123]

Well...  I tried to fire up my Pentranic after make my mods and it didn’t work     Still, same chirping.

I put my ear to the chassis and the chirping seems to be coming from the top right of the board.  Where the FET and sub power board are located.

Since i still have not replaced the FET transistor, i think ill do that and check on a few other components in that area.

[gokun]

[UPDATE 2]
Well, after getting a new resistor which is much more manly, as well as a couple other parts I was waiting for, I figured I would give it another shot...so I put everything back together and cut it on and...
No Chirping!
but now I'm blowing the main fuse!  it does have a pretty greenish flash though 
anyways, I think I'm gonna replace the FET for this one....does that seem like the obvious choice to anyone else?
could it be my new "manly" resistor? it's a metal 50w and I believe the other was 1/2W or so(both are 270k)...
too big? I'm thinking it's fine probably but always like knowledgable opinions from the experts since I'm still learning and all...
So, yeah, I'm thinking the FET like Arm...opinions?
Oh, and btw Arm, I think I have an extra IC2 if you need one let me know and I'll double check for ya.

 

[grantspain]

if you have a metal backed transistor at q401 make sure it has an insulation sheet

[gokun]

if you have a metal backed transistor at q401 make sure it has an insulation sheet

Checked it at lunch today and the original did not have a metal back on it, so not one on the replacement either...but I did put heat compound between it and the heatsink though.

My new FET is on order, so just have to wait until next week to try that...in the meantime go the the chasis back out so I can keep playing with it...gonna check to see if my "hadoken" short blew anything else, since I neglected to do so initially...
Will let everyone know how it turns out. Thanks!

Also, forgot to mention, I am going to replace the FET with a 2sk1358...any objections?

[EDIT]
Well, my "newbie underoos" are apparently showing again....sigh....
got my new sub power board from Rick today(again, cannot thank you enough Rick!) and noticed immediately that in
my hurry to put the old one back together I had put the ic in backwards...
Yes, I know, I suck...but in my defense after the "hadoken" incident the board was completely blackened right there so there is no way I would have ever been able to read the numbers to see which pin went where...still no excuse as I simply didn't pay attention while removing the old one, but a justification will do I suppose...
At any rate, after I've had a chance to settle down a bit, I'm gonna flip it around(assuming it ain't totally fried already) and if that don't work, I'm gonna go ahead and put in the new sub power board....still going to replace the FET when the new one arrives just for good measure....figure I've basically rebuilt the thing anyway at this point, so might as well....anyways, just wanted to let everyone know my mistake...hopefully that will be a good lesson to other noobs (and me) to PAY ATTENTION when you do this work.

[Edit 2]
Ok, managed to fix most of the damage I did, so now I'm just back to waiting for the FET.

[Edit 3]
Well, maybe my luck is changing for the better...my sister iscoming to visit from another state this weekend and is going to stop by a good parts store for me on her way...so should have my new FETs tonight, as well as a new ba159 to replace d502 with...(that's a leftover from the "hadoken" incident). So should know something more tomorrow...
this go around I replaced/am replacing:
the fuse (obviously)
IC2(again)
the entire sub power board
FET
d502
possibly the HOT again if it needs it(haven't checked yet)
So, with these, and of course double checking the remaining parts, I'm hoping I get some signs of life...update to follow...

[Edit 4]
Went ahead and tried it since I had a little time...
so it comes on with what I would call the normal sound...
the fuse does not blow...
it does not chirp...
it does not spark or make unusual noises...
but I get no picture at all...and no glow in the neck...
hrmmm....I've read that r510 and r516 can cause this...but other than that I have no idea...
so I'm open to suggestions!
in the mean time I guess I will test those 2 when I get time...will let ya all know...

[gokun]

OMFG!!!!! I forgot to plug in the HV plug from the monitor to the chassis(I knew it sounded like it was turning on ok)!!! plugged it in turned up the screen on flyback and IT CAME ON!!!!!!!!!!
OMFG!!!!! I CAN'T BELIEVE I FIXED IT!!!!!!
WWWWWWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
THANK YOU TO EVERYONE FOR ALL THE CONSTANT HELP AND ADVICE!!!!!!!!

[BASS!]

Awesome! Good to hear you got it sorted out. Now we need pics of it playing games:-)

[grantspain]

congrats

[Arm123]

OMFG!!!!! I forgot to plug in the HV plug from the monitor to the chassis(I knew it sounded like it was turning on ok)!!! plugged it in turned up the screen on flyback and IT CAME ON!!!!!!!!!!
OMFG!!!!! I CAN'T BELIEVE I FIXED IT!!!!!!
WWWWWWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
THANK YOU TO EVERYONE FOR ALL THE CONSTANT HELP AND ADVICE!!!!!!!!

YOUR A MAN !

[gokun]

Awesome! Good to hear you got it sorted out. Now we need pics of it playing games:-)

[UPDATE-06/19/08]
Still working great I'm very happy to report!

[UPDATE-06/27/08]
No problems whatsoever...weeeeeeeee!
For those keeping score at home it was the hot, that diode and the resistor on the sub power board which were causing my chirping...the rest I blew up myself mucking around and learning.

[UPDATE-07/07/08]
Yep still working, and this will probably be the final update...just wanted everyone to know that it's still fine after almost a month and I forsee no problems with it in the near future.

[HCR33]

Which resister on the daughter board did you replace?  I'm having same issue and would like to fix it as well.  Thanks for any help. 

[canadiangamer]

I know this is a really old thread but just wanted to say thanks for detailing your repair adventure and reporting your conclusion, it was all very helpful to me. Cheers!