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| which glue should i use to hold the tmolding in place? |
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| danny_galaga:
i used two part epoxy on the tight areas. works well. the glue doesnt actually stick to the t-molding, but once it sets it 'locks' the the t-molding spine in place. i used 5 minute araldite, holding the t-molding in place (a tedious job for some but im an aeromodeller from way back-plenty of 'holding it in place unitl it dries' experience :D) |
| CheffoJeffo:
I'm 100% with somunny on this. This issue comes up all the time when restoring old cabs and most people I know use hot glue -- it's clean, it's easy and you can pull the t-molding out if/when you need to. If you ding a corner or something and need to do some body work, having t-molding that won't come out without a hammer or crowbar isn't a benefit -- it's a total disaster. My $.02 EDIT: For grammar |
| somunny:
--- Quote from: psychotech on April 08, 2008, 10:44:40 pm --- I'm using (high quality ?) contact glue on my cabs. Works like a charm :) --- End quote --- Why are you using this method on all your cabinets? I would think that the t-molding should fit securely without using any adhesive at all. I had to use a little hot glue once to get some t-mold to stick in an area that I had bunged up with the slot cutter. It's for f-ups not general assembly. Normally, I just pound it in with a rubber mallet. |
| Stub:
Or I used maple veneer. Not as authentic, but I love the clean look. |
| ideft:
I used "no more nails", applied it with a caulking gun, which was great for getting in those slots. Plus clean-up was easy, just a wet rag and that was it. The t-moulding also comes off clean once you get a piece started(if you desire to rip it off again). The only drawback it that you have to keep pressure on it when it is drying, but I was doing it while it was cold out so my drying times were a little longer. But I would use it again.....hopefully I will never have too. |
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