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Global Arcade Replica MAME (new & updated pics!)
valiant:
Firstly, thanks to all for their postings on BYOAC - I've been lurking around since Xmas but I thought it was time to give something back for what I've learned from using this site over the last three months. Also, I hope to put a bit of a UK slant on this if possible for those UK builders thinking of starting a project.
Well, it's taken a few months to get all the necessary parts together (constrained by finances!), but in the last few weeks I acquired the timber and made a start on the frame - 15x 2.4m lengths of 2"x4" and 3x WPBB 3/4" ply 8'x4' from Howarth Timber merchants.
I wanted to design a machine along the following lines:
1. Original Cabinet - from Global Arcade Classics
2. Initial sketch - side image, from Taito's Space Invader 20th Anniversary
Initial idea for a frame came from Scott's Unicade (thanks Scott ;D) - I decided to base my arcade machine on a Sony Trinitron 29" Flat Screen 4:3 CRT TV (Model KV29F1U), and I was concerned about the weight of the TV - nearly 35kg. A frame seemed like a sensible idea.
Progress pictures (at bottom of post):
3. Frame pieces in 4x2
4. Frame pieces with half lap joints, cut using band saw
5. Side Frame assembled, glued and screwed together, using a template to maintain consistent pattern
6. Assembled TV shelf
7. Two side frame pieces, cross members & TV shelf ready for assembly
8. Completed frame with Sony TV installed
I tried to do the half lap joints by hand, with a router, mitre saw, table saw to no avail. I ended up buying a band saw (Metabo), which made perfect joints. Most of the frame lined up within tolerance, but I did need to use a ratchet strap to pull it into line by 5mm when I bolted & screwed it all together and put the base on.
This setup took approximately two days (mainly over the Easter bank holiday weekend).
Basic components acquired so far include Andy's Ultimarc ArcadeVGA card (Ultimarc), in a Shuttle 2.4Ghz PC with 2GB RAM plus a Star Wars yoke, 1x 270 steering wheel, 2x 360 steering wheel, Hi-Lo shifter, Operation Wolf gun and 2x HAPP Gas & Brake Pedals from eBay US, 2x LCD TopGun (from Play Asia) plus a suite of buttons, joysticks, trackballs, illuminated coin door (10p model) etc. from Gremlin Solutions.
As things progress, I'll keep my thread updated with pics where possible. Any comments or learning points gratefully received ;)
Next job - cut and fix side panels, plus route edge for T-Moulding.
valiant:
Well, the first of the side panels was cut successfully this evening. In order to generate accurate and smooth curves, I mocked up a simple pivot with a short piece of wood with a notch at one end for the pencil and a hole with a screw at the other. This way I ensured the curve, which in my plans, were the same diameter for front monitor and rear over.
1. Marking out the circle
I cut the straight edges of my design with a circular saw, using a spirit level to provide the straight edge. I marked out my line and then offset the level by the depth of my circular saw blade from the edge of the plate. I then clamped it to the board and then off I went. This gave me perfect straight lines:
2. Cutting a straight line with a circular saw
I repeated this for the upright, 45 degree CP angle support and top of angle:
3. Starting to look like a side panel...
I then used my jigsaw with a fine toothed wood blade to cut my arcs - I had to fully support the panel to prevent jumping and then on a medium speed took it VERY VERY slowly. I am not usually a big fan of jigsaws, as I think cuts can be a bit 'wavy', but by taking my time I have got a near perfect cut. Patience has won out - it took nearly half an hour to cut the arcs out:
4. Rear arc on panel
5. Finished panel
I am very pleased so far with the cuts - very smooth and little splitting or chipping on the ply.
The board against the frame:
6. From the front..
7. From the side..
Seeing it like this makes it look more and more like a true arcade machine! It's given me the incentive to keep going!
A quick run over with a sand block to smooth the edges and I have overlayed the cut piece on the next board to act as a template:
8. Marking out second side piece
Hopefully by the end of this weekend I will have the front kickplate (with pedals & coin mech), plus side panels fitted.
_) (V) (-):
Interesting design, panel on frames, like an old car.
Dual racing controls make it look ready for excitement.
Will be watching this one.
valiant:
Sent the two 360 wheel bases, the disassembled star wars yoke (instructions from the Wiki - here) to be shot blasted yesterday to remove all rust etc., prime and repaint in the original Matt black.
My Star Wars yoke had a faulty microswitch in one of the triggers, so I obtained a replacement part from here, plus a few spares to cover any other faults in the future. Interestingly, my yoke did not have the spring pins mentioned in the Wiki, so my handles came off very easily.
Will post pictures of the returned pieces and re-assembled yoke once complete.
toff74:
Hello there..
I'm very interested in this build as i've just started out myself and using the same screen (the large sony).
Here's how i'm getting on:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=78553.0
On your initial sketch you have a depth of 23". How did you get that? I've been trying to get my cab as shallow as possible and it still looks HUGE! Also, looks like you got a good angle on the screen there. Did you measure it? Sorry for all the questions, i'm new to this and trying to absorb as much info as possible..
Good luck with the build :) Looks great
Toff74
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