Start cabinet with single power button, idea help needed (Schematic included)

[kelroy]

Hey I think I may have solved the power switch problem or am very close to solving it.  I need people to look at the provided schematic and provide feedback.

*one problem that may arise the relays need to be damn near instantaneous else power will drop.

if you cant read the Schematic  download it the resolution is high enough to read.

The SPST Momentary Rocker/Lever would be the switch mounted on the back of the cabinet.

I feel that the first schematic is flawed and this next one is closer to the solution



I think the key is the momentary dpst momentary switch which I think makes relay #4 and #1 unnecessary

Input please!

[TheShanMan]

Could you explain what the power switch problem is? I have no power switch problem that would require something like this. I have a power strip that controls power to all secondary outlets based on current flow in the primary outlet (which powers the computer), so I power on the PC and the whole cab comes to life. And then I just use a regular arcade button as the PC's power button (rather than the button on the front of the PC) to power up and power down.

Is your problem different???

[kelroy]

with this you would be able to flip one rocker switch in the back of the machine and the whole thing would power up.  flip the switch again and the computer shuts down gracefully and the power is cut. 

[TheShanMan]

OK. I just don't understand why you'd go to all that trouble when a power strip like I have and a momentary pushbutton will do the same thing.

[kelroy]

essentially the same thing but this way no one would know the wiser that the heart of the beast was a computer.

[TheShanMan]

You're saying that a momentary pushbutton is too much of a giveaway? That's the only exposed part of my solution. My power strip is inside the cabinet.

[kelroy]

are you using a smartstrip? the power is not completely cut which is some cases could be bad. with this the main power is completely cut.  explane how your setup works if you dont mind.

[kelroy]

sorry dont mean to criticize im just curious is all i have not looked much into a smartstrip

[TheShanMan]

Didn't take it as criticism at all.

Not sure the brand. I bought it about 9 years ago so I would guess it's not the same brand that people typically get nowadays. What do you mean "the power is not completely cut"? One outlet in the strip controls power to all other outlets. If there is no (or miniscule) current draw by the control outlet, all other outlets are essentially shut off. I have seen no signs of this ever NOT working perfectly, and I've had it in my cab for 9 years.

Again, I'm not sure I have the same brand people typically get these days, but I'm sure if you searched on "power strip" you could get plenty of info on brand and how well it works.

[kelroy]

wow could you look at the brand on the strip or find a comparable link?

[kelroy]

thanks i found one im glad you told me this i would have had a headach otherwise.

[TheShanMan]

Cool! Glad to help, and it's a good thing you posted your question rather than proceeding on your own!

[Ginsu Victim]

My setup:
PC set to power on after failure.
Everything runs to a standard power strip.
Power strip runs out via 8' orange extension cord.
Cord plugs into an on/off switch at the outlet.

Flip the switch to turn everything on.
Shut down via software (in MameWAH) with pushbutton at top of cab ( Player 1 button 8 ).
Flip the switch to off after PC shuts down to turn everything else off.

[golfboyusa]

Kelroy,
Get a SmartStrip, all your problems will be solved!

[telengard]

I guess I'm confused too.  I power everything on by one switch on top of the cabinet (PC, monitor, woofer, marquee light, etc).  I did have to make a modification to the power strip but I think it was just soldering one wire (it's been years and I forget what I did).   In reading my web page it seems I soldered the switch inline.  Maybe this isn't safe?  Haven't had issues in the many years I've had the cab.

http://home.comcast.net/~bsturk/mame/misc.html

Maybe the OP is trying to do something more than I'm thinking.     

~telengard

[milhouse]

+

No one would ever know its a computer

[Jakobud]

This is another cheap solution that I have used in my old cabinet.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Minder-Mini/dp/B000BSN1CA

You run a USB cable from your PC to this power adapter.  Everything else in your cabinet is plugged (via powerstrip) into the switched outlet.  Power on your PC, triggers the power on of everything else.  Just keep your PC in your cabinet and rig nice looking exterior switch.  It works very very well.  Better than trying to hack the smartstrip imo.

[psychotech]

Better than trying to hack the smartstrip imo.

Come again?

Should be absolutely nothing to hack in a smartstrip (or the equivalents)? One master + several slave outlets etc. etc. No hacks involved, for less than 7€ / 10$ at best.. Push the power button and everything powers on -> shut down the machine (through the power switch, your preferred FE or whatever) and everything shuts down..

?

[pincky]

My setup:
PC set to power on after failure.
Everything runs to a standard power strip.
Power strip runs out via 8' orange extension cord.
Cord plugs into an on/off switch at the outlet.

Flip the switch to turn everything on.
Shut down via software (in MameWAH) with pushbutton at top of cab ( Player 1 button 8 ).
Flip the switch to off after PC shuts down to turn everything else off.

That is how wired my setup

[Ginsu Victim]

^I know, because I broke into your house and I'm living in your cabinet. Thanks for putting internet access on this....most don't bother....

[Dustin Mustangs]

I guess I am the only one having issues with my smartstrip then.  It is very unreliable with my setup and requires me to constantly tweak the adjustment screw.  It seems to depend on how long the cabinet is running.  I can get it to work perfect over and over again if I turn it on and immediately turn it off (like you would to set the sensitivity).  But then when I fire up the machine and leave it on for a few hours it won't shut everything off.  This requires me to re-adjust the screw to get it to turn off and the new adjustment makes it so it won't power on correctly next time I use it.  Pretty annoying if you ask me.  This thing is pointless if it's not reliable and actually becomes more of a pain to use then if I'd just have a normal power strip.  I imagine it is because my control (computer) doesn't draw enough amps when it is on.  I may add a case light or fan (not that I want either) to see if it makes this more reliable but if not I am going to have to figure something else out.

[Ginsu Victim]

That's the first complaint I've read about the smartstrip.

[DeLuSioNal29]

^I know, because I broke into your house and I'm living in your cabinet. Thanks for putting internet access on this....most don't bother....

Defective unit.  Exchange it.

[Jakobud]

Better than trying to hack the smartstrip imo.

Come again?

Should be absolutely nothing to hack in a smartstrip (or the equivalents)? One master + several slave outlets etc. etc. No hacks involved, for less than 7€ / 10$ at best.. Push the power button and everything powers on -> shut down the machine (through the power switch, your preferred FE or whatever) and everything shuts down..

?

Do you reach inside your cabinet to flick the switch on your smartstrip to turn your cabinet on?

The 'hack' i'm refering to is replacing the smartstrip power switch with wires that lead to an externally mounted switch on your outside of the cabinet.

[Ginsu Victim]

^My power strip (not a smart strip) runs out via an orange ext cord, which plugs into an on/off switch at the outlet. I just flip the switch.

[psychotech]

 

No need to touch the smartstrip at all ..and there's no switch anyway ... I just push the power button on the cabinet The one that's just so conveniently located ...

Come on, just extend the (two) motherboard power wires, connect them to a microswitch and it's all done. No (real) hacks, no problems. And takes all of about a minute to do?

The PC power button never connects to the smartstrip, just acts as a normal PC power button ...the PC is the master on the smartstrip etc..

Can't be that difficult to do?

PS. Jakobud, I've seen and know your solution works ..but so do the smartstrips I'm using on my builds...

PPS. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=67842.msg706604#msg706604 / http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=61679.msg614554#msg614554

[lanman31337]

^My power strip (not a smart strip) runs out via an orange ext cord, which plugs into an on/off switch at the outlet. I just flip the switch.

That's exactly how I have my setup.  When I flip the switch, everything powers on.  The top part of the outlet is switched, the bottom isn't, so I can have something that needs constant power plugged into there.

[QuarterJunkie]

Where do you guys get the said "smart strips" from? Can you get them from a retail chain, or are they online only?

[Zobeid]

Where do you guys get the said "smart strips" from? Can you get them from a retail chain, or are they online only?

I live way out in the middle of nowhere, so I don't know about "brick and mortar" retail.  However, just a couple days ago I put an order into Amazon.com for one.

http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-Autoswitching-Technology-SCG3/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=pd_bbs_sr_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1206549597&sr=8-3

Info about the various models at the manufacturer's website:

http://bitsltd.net/ConsumerProducts/index.htm

Now, here's my problem. . .   I'm trying to figure out how to relocate the power button from the front panel of my computer (Dell OptiPlex GX270 tower), and I'm not having much luck.  There appears to be a ribbon cable that runs from the front panel to the mainboard, which carries USB, audio and the power switch signals, but hacking into the ribbon cable doesn't seem practical -- it would be scary even if I knew which leads carried the switch signal, which I don't.

The power button itself is buried into the single most inaccessible spot of the whole computer, between the plastic front panel and the metal frame.  I can't even see how it's wired or anything, it's all concealed in plastic and metal.  It doesn't look like I can get at it without either disassembling half the computer (which I would like to avoid) or cutting up the front panel with a dremel tool (which I would even more like to avoid).

So, I'm weighing my options.  Any suggestions?

[ids]

Where do you guys get the said "smart strips" from? Can you get them from a retail chain, or are they online only?

I found an equivalent in Home Despot, around the power tools area.  It was being sold as a good way to have the shop vac and lights go on when you start your power-tool.

[csa3d]

Where do you guys get the said "smart strips" from? Can you get them from a retail chain, or are they online only?

I found an equivalent in Home Despot, around the power tools area.  It was being sold as a good way to have the shop vac and lights go on when you start your power-tool.

Man, Home Depot is hit or miss depending on who you talk to.  I asked this several times and no one ever seems to have something like that there.  You got a manufacturer or part # or something on that one?

I've heard that Sears has them, and sounds like the same senario, where you need to know EXACTLY what to ask for in order to have the person helping you locate it.

-csa

[ids]

Where do you guys get the said "smart strips" from? Can you get them from a retail chain, or are they online only?

I found an equivalent in Home Despot, around the power tools area.  It was being sold as a good way to have the shop vac and lights go on when you start your power-tool.

Man, Home Depot is hit or miss depending on who you talk to.  I asked this several times and no one ever seems to have something like that there.  You got a manufacturer or part # or something on that one?

I've heard that Sears has them, and sounds like the same senario, where you need to know EXACTLY what to ask for in order to have the person helping you locate it.

-csa

I got lucky, was just browsing, when I spotted this thing.  I can easily imagine the average HD employee not knowing much about these.  I don't have any more details at the moment - I'll try to remember to dig up details when I get home  (if I dont get back to this soon, i've forgotten, so PM me)

I also recall seeing a link to Sears a while back, and another to Tiger Direct (i think).

[DeLuSioNal29]

I've noticed that different Home Depots carry different stuff.  I am fortunate that the one near me is stocked well.  My father in law actually makes a trip to my Home Depot every time he visits, since the one near him doesn't have anything (and the people are not very knowledgable)

~ D

[ids]

When I have the time, i do the tour: 2-3 HD's, 1-3 Rona's, and Lowes.  Selection and pricing vary enough, and they are all close enough.

I almost went the build-your-own route.  I found some relays, but they were quite expensive.  I'm no electrician, so maybe I was looking at the wrong stuff, but pretty sure it was the right thing.  The power-bar thingy I got at HD was cheaper than the relays I was looking at.

[psychotech]

I found an equivalent in Home Despot, around the power tools area. ...

Oh, that Home Despot stuff really scares me...   

 

[ids]

It's a "Vermont American" brand "Automatic Power Switch" - see pic

[severdhed]

the one at Sears is called the
 Craftsman Auto Switch
Sears item# 00924031000 Mfr. model# 24031

i got mine at sears for $20..they are located near the power saws.  they are used to turn on lights and vacuums when you power tool turns on.  it works great for a mame cabinet

[DaOld Man]

Not meaning to get off subject here, (well, it may be spot on for the original post.)
but I have been thinking about this method to power up/ power down your PC.
Of course your pc will have to have the ability to shutdown by momentarily pressing the power button while the PC is on (not all  pc's can do this).
Anyway, here's my idea.
Simply put, it is a DPDT switch and two electrolytic capacitors.
Flipping the switch up applies a pulse to the PC's on button, and discharges capacitor 2 (C2)
Flipping the switch down sends another pulse, and discharges capacitor 1 (C1)
See attached drawing. I havent figured out the values for C1 and C2 yet.