Author Topic: Advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes (topic closed please use latest) Regards Alan (Read 150870 times)

ami-man · « **Reply #40 on:** April 06, 2009, 10:28:13 am »

Hi Dave (speck7),

No problem, it is usually the simply things that are the trouble.
You will now know that it is best to test the outputs of both channels with a extension speaker if in doubt.
The bass speakers go across both channels and the mid/top range go across each channel and ground.
I would check out the cross over unit to make sure that none of the cables can short out (this may have happened before and blown the two speakers)

Glad to hear your jukebox is now up and running.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

MrD · « **Reply #41 on:** May 05, 2009, 08:18:22 pm »

I have a Rowe CD100A Jukebox. I just picked up an IR control kit. It has the control board, an IR receiver and the remote. It doesn't include any directions.

I'm guessing it can't be too hard to hook up. I think it's only got a couple of wires (I don't have it in hand, it's on it's way).

Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the instructions for this?

Thanks!
David

Ken Layton · « **Reply #42 on:** May 06, 2009, 05:00:12 pm »

If I remember correctly, there are two different infrared remote volume accessories out there. There's one for the conventional 250 watt amplifier and a different one for the 1000 watt Sound Studio models.

There's also a software setup to enable in the jukebox programming (mode 91).

I don't know what has to be done for installing it since I have never installed one. In the vast majority of jukebox installations I have done over the past 30 years, it's usually a hard wired remote volume control that I install. The other times the location was happy with just the built-in volume control on the back of the jukebox.

ami-man · « **Reply #43 on:** May 07, 2009, 09:03:29 am »

Hi David,

Like Ken I have never used the infra red kit, the one you need is the Rowe Ami 21957501.
I assume that the board that comes with the kit must be connected into the volume control socket and into the CCC because the remote also allows selections to be made from it etc.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

MrD · « **Reply #44 on:** May 07, 2009, 09:52:53 pm »

Hopefully I'll know more tomorrow if it's delivered. I've only seen a picture of it. It looks like, it has a connection to the IR receiver, a set of white/orange wires that most connect to the RoweLink on the CCC. Then two wires that probably go to the volume in place of the regular pot. The other most be power? I'll try and figure it out

MrD · « **Reply #45 on:** May 11, 2009, 10:20:06 am »

I contacted Rowe and they were kind enough to FAX me a copy of the installation / operation instructions. They didn't have a PDF available, so I made one and I'll post it here for anyone else that might ever need it. It's 16 pages but the size was too large to post here all as one file so I split it into 2 parts.

I was able to get it hooked up to my jukebox and it seems to work very well. Remote selections, volume, credit, cancel. I think the biggest problem with one of these is the initial price. I got mine (circuit board and remote) for $120. Before this, I had contacted a dsitributor and they wanted to sell me a new cirtcuit board only for $350.

So if you can find a decent one used, here are the instructions.

ami-man · « **Reply #46 on:** May 11, 2009, 10:55:06 am »

Hi David,

The pdf's that you posted are not opening from here.
Can you please send them to alan-hood@datex.co.uk

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

MrD · « **Reply #47 on:** May 11, 2009, 11:33:09 am »

Are those links working for anyone else? I can get them by clicking on them. I just wondered if it's working for anyone else.

David

ceetyleemits · « **Reply #48 on:** May 11, 2009, 09:54:35 pm »

Hey ami man.
Thanks for the help with my heritage rowe ami.
Heres where im at.
All working fine on all letters but only on numbers 8,9,and 0
numbers 1 to 7 the search unit continues to spin.
any help would be great
cheers
dean

Ken Layton · « **Reply #49 on:** May 12, 2009, 12:59:44 am »

The links do NOT work for me either.

Here is what I get for each one:

Internet Explorer cannot display the webpage

Most likely causes:
You are not connected to the Internet.
The website is encountering problems.
There might be a typing error in the address.

What you can try:
Diagnose Connection Problems

More information

This problem can be caused by a variety of issues, including:

Internet connectivity has been lost.
The website is temporarily unavailable.
The Domain Name Server (DNS) is not reachable.
The Domain Name Server (DNS) does not have a listing for the website's domain.
If this is an HTTPS (secure) address, click Tools, click Internet Options, click Advanced, and check to be sure the SSL and TLS protocols are enabled under the security section.

ami-man · « **Reply #50 on:** May 12, 2009, 06:49:53 am »

Hi David

I would like to thank you for sending me the pdf by email.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

ami-man · « **Reply #51 on:** May 12, 2009, 06:58:01 am »

Hi Dean,

With regards to your selection problems on your Heritage.

I would check out the keyboard with a meter that the sitches are making and that the wiring is good to the Search Unit edge connector (check for alignment on this plug it is possible to be almost a pin out)

Clean the keyboard open relay contacts and the S1 & S2 contact on the search unit (use the taper of paper method for cleaning the contacts, not switch cleaner)

Please let us know how you get on.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

MrD · « **Reply #52 on:** May 12, 2009, 09:59:58 pm »

CD100 IR Remote Installation Instructions should now be available here:

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Jukebox/Rowe_AMI/Rowe_CD100_IR_Remote_Control.pdf

jukejunkie · « **Reply #53 on:** June 08, 2009, 01:56:56 pm »

hi ami man
new guy on the block

i want to hook up small external speakers to my new rowe cd 100 project
i have been working on,
jukebox has a 250 watt amp
do the external speakers have to be at least 125 watts each or can i go lower?
i dont' have any manuals for the jukebox
i converted the box to play mp3 that i will start a new tread about it

MrD · « **Reply #54 on:** June 08, 2009, 02:00:12 pm »

I'm not a Rowe Expert by any means. Did you do a conversion yourself or did you use one of the adapters that replace the CD mechanism?

I did one of those and it connects to my iPod. I have the manuals at home, and I'm pretty sure there is a diagram and table where you put in all the speakers you have and then you have to have the wiring on the transformer correct for the load you have from your speakers.

I'll see what I can find to help you out.

jukejunkie · « **Reply #55 on:** June 08, 2009, 02:21:22 pm »

thank you
i just started a new topic on what i did to my jukebox
(my rowe cd 100 jukebox project)

ami-man · « **Reply #56 on:** June 09, 2009, 06:54:18 am »

Hi jukejunkie,

With regards to the speakers to use on the amplifier the important thing is the impeadence of the extention speakers they must not be below 4 ohms.
You can use several on each channel series/parallel connected but overall the impeadence must be 4 ohms or higher to prevent damage to the amplifier.

Use the lower tapping on the output package to balance out the load.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

jukejunkie · « **Reply #57 on:** June 09, 2009, 09:31:40 am »

hi ami-man
i want to hook up my pair of old JBLs
they are 8 ohms and about 50 watts
my concern is is that i don't want my speakers blown
thanks

ami-man · « **Reply #58 on:** June 10, 2009, 05:47:00 am »

Hi jukejunkie,

I would only use up to the E4 tappings. Here are the voltages on the output package for each tapping.

E1 0volts
E2 2volts
E3 4volts
E4 8volts
E5 10.65volts
E6 16volts
E7 21.3volts

Please let me know how you get on.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

ssharp · « **Reply #59 on:** June 14, 2009, 06:56:00 pm »

I have an AMI Rowe R-87 jukebox and have no experience with servicing it, although I'm willing to try. It's worked flawlessly for the past 20+ years except for replacement of the power supply years ago. Recently it's had problems with the "0" button. All the other numbers work fine. You can push the "0" but it doesn't appear on the display and doesn't seem to register. I've tried to clean around the keypad with canned air, with no success. Sometimes the "0" WILL work. It could be coincidental, but it seems like it never works when you first power up the machine, but may work hours later if you leave it on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

ami-man · « **Reply #60 on:** June 15, 2009, 09:26:32 am »

Hello ssharp,

The problem will be more than likely be down to dry joints (cold joints in the USA) on the
button bank or on the pricing board (this is the board on the back of the jukebox with the clear plastic cover).
Remove the keyboard and pricing board and look for any cracking around the soldered connections and in the case of the button bank around the 0 switch. On the pricing board just check the top and botton connections.

As with all connectors when removing them from the board pull on the connector not on the cables.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

ssharp · « **Reply #61 on:** June 16, 2009, 02:26:06 pm »

Thanks ami-man. I'll check this out and let you know what I find.

ami-man · « **Reply #62 on:** June 17, 2009, 04:57:13 am »

Hi ssharp,

I look forward to your news.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

jukejunkie · « **Reply #63 on:** June 19, 2009, 01:51:27 pm »

i did a pc conversion to my cd100 jukebox
and wondering if the cd mech parts worth anything
it didn't work before i took it out but is in mint condition
i think the board needs repair
it still has the original old style cd player in it
it shows 260000 plays
i really don't want to put the the whole unit on ebay and ship it
should i sell just the parts off of it?

ami-man · « **Reply #64 on:** June 22, 2009, 05:29:06 am »

Hi jukejunkie,

People on Ebay sell the complete mechanism and the boards or split them into the parts.
In the UK the mechanisms sell for around £50.00 plus and the CCC's from £20.00.

On the mechanism the main parts are:-
Mechanism Control
Decoder Board
Laser Head
Opto Switch
Transfer motor
Spag assembly including drive motor
Gripper bow assembly

So it may be better to split the parts.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Cliffy · « **Reply #65 on:** June 29, 2009, 01:11:15 am »

How nice to find this on arcade controls! I see Ken Layton here, howdy Ken

Ok, I've got a Rowe R-3812A 50 watt stereo amp that's been acting a little off. The left channel seems to be just barely amplifying. If I turn the balance control all the way left I can hear music, but very faintly. All the way right, loud. Unplugged the phono cartridge jacks and swapped them, same thing happens so that eliminates the needle/cartridge from being the problem. So I pull the amp and pull out the driver boards. Not much to them and all solder joints look good. A quick check of the transistors on these driver boards shows good. There are 2 diodes on each board too and they check good. So I swap channels, since they seem identical and lo and behold the right channel now is the faint one. I expected that but since compnents seem fine on the drivers why am I getting no or little sound on one channel?

So I guess my question is where is the fault, if not the driver boards? Could it be the bottle cap transistors mounted on the big heatsink?
I can't even tell what they are as the seem to simply have a part number on them.
Help?

Cliffy

Ken Layton · « **Reply #66 on:** June 29, 2009, 10:57:36 am »

Recap the electrolytics on the driver boards and on the preamp board.

All of the boards are old enough to need new electrolytics.

ami-man · « **Reply #67 on:** June 30, 2009, 06:13:52 am »

Hi Cliffy,

Have you swopped over the driver locations to test if the problem is on the driver boards or the pre-amplifier?
If not do so.

If we were testing the amplifier we would put a signal into the driver boards to check them.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man

Cliffy · « **Reply #68 on:** June 30, 2009, 10:03:19 pm »

Quote from: ami-man on June 30, 2009, 06:13:52 am

Hi Cliffy,

Have you swapped over the driver locations to test if the problem is on the driver boards or the pre-amplifier?
If not do so.

If we were testing the amplifier we would put a signal into the driver boards to check them.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man

Alan I did indeed swap driver locations and thye problem moved. I'm going to try Ken's advice and recap the drivers and the pre-amp with new elctrolytics. I'll definetly report back with findings. Thanks to both of you for the advice.
Cliffy

ami-man · « **Reply #69 on:** July 01, 2009, 06:52:11 am »

Hi Cliffy,

IF the fault moved then the problem is more than likely down to just one of the driver boards.
It is doubtfull that recapping will sort out your problems. Usually I would replace the caps on the main chassis if they were leaking or if there was a backgroup hum. These caps supply the DC to pre-amp and the driver boards.
I think you have dry joints on the driver board or problems with the bios resistors or some of the transistors.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

rufusrabbit · « **Reply #70 on:** July 11, 2009, 01:33:52 pm »

Hi
I have just posted this before seeing your kind offers of help, but here goes. I have a rowe ami r91 golden that has been showing fault 19 for a while, it now does not play the record, merely picks it out of the magazine and puts it back again, and after 3-5 attempts shows error 39, any help would be appreciated
Mark

ami-man · « **Reply #71 on:** July 12, 2009, 02:16:25 am »

Hi Mark,

I will look at the error codes when I get back to work on Monday.
Some codes stop the operation of the jukebox untill they are reset.

Do you have a manual? if so check out the section that describes the errors and the section on resetting errors.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

ami-man · « **Reply #72 on:** July 13, 2009, 05:06:38 am »

Hi Mark,

Error code 19 :- Keyboard switch 6 always closed.

The computor thinks that this switch is always closed this could be down to:-

A. A defective computor
B. A defective Digitai Display
C. A defective Keyboard
D. A short in the Computor-to-Display harness
E. A short in the Display-to-Keyboard harness.

Error code 39:-

Transfercycle started, cam moved off inner cam switch, and Outer Cam Switch record placed on turntable;however, the signal stayed high (quiescent) for longer than 30 seconds. This error will cause phonograph to shut down until power is turned off and turned back on. Turn power on and refer to " Transfer starts and runs continuously" in Trouble colume of MODULAR TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS.

The Chart states possible causes:-

A. Wiring to Outer Cam Switch
B. Outer Cam Switch
C. Central Control Computer
D. Wiring from CCC to Mech Control
E. Mech Control Board
F. InnerCam Sw. N.O Contact shorted to common
Open Circuit-Outer Cam Sw. Common

I find these switches spade connections can short out.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

MrD · « **Reply #73 on:** July 21, 2009, 07:27:22 pm »

I've got a CD100 and I just picked up a Wallbox for it CD-WB. The wiring strip in the wallbox has the following connections:

1) AC Power
2) AC Com
3) L Ch
4) R Ch
5) Audio Com
6) Rowelink A
7) Rowelink A

Rowelink B
9) Rowelink B

3-5 seem easy.
I think I can use 6, 8 to connect to the Rowelink (orange / white wiring)

My question is on the AC. The wallbox, I believe runs on 28vac. However, there is a transformer in the wallbox, which appears to have to wire inputs, then it outputs a common, and 2 others, that can be combined to have 28vac or 6vac. So I would then assume it isn't 28vac on the input side.

So do I wire this up for 1-2 as 110vac? Or do I need to step it down to 28vac for 1-2? Or am I complete wrong? I don't see any 28vac in the CD100 itself. Maybe it needs an additional transformer?

Anyone have a wiring diagram for this setup? I can't find it in any of my CD100 manuals.

MrD · « **Reply #74 on:** July 21, 2009, 08:42:59 pm »

Well I found my own answer. It's 28vac to the wallbox from the CD100. There is 28vac in the CD100. I'm not sure if I found the best place to tap it, but it must have been used to operate the CD player. My CD mech has been replaced by a an ipod conversion (cdadapter.com) so the wires were free.

Hooked them up to the wallbox and it works great!

Ken Layton · « **Reply #75 on:** July 21, 2009, 10:29:52 pm »

Rowe issued seperate manuals for each model of wallbox. They can be purchased from your local authorized Rowe distributor.

ami-man · « **Reply #76 on:** July 22, 2009, 04:38:33 am »

Hi MrD,

Glad to see that you worked it out.
You can get the 28 volts from a number of places in the jukebox.
On the power supply the 28 volt ac connections are pins 5 & 6 with common connections 7, 8 & 9. The 28 volt ac is protected by a 5 amp breaker.

I would put an inline fuse in the wiring to the wallbox (3 or 4 amp should be ok) this would keep the jukebox going if you had a problem on the wallboxes. The interfaces on the earlier jukeboxes had a fuse in the data line of 500ma to protect the CCC incase the cable was cut to the wallbox (wallboxes).

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

ami-man · « **Reply #77 on:** July 24, 2009, 08:40:30 am »

Hi,

Sorry but I am on holiday from this evening until the 3rd of August.
If you post a message I will reply on my return.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

ami-man · « **Reply #78 on:** August 14, 2009, 11:34:28 am »

Hi,

I have been back from holiday a week, it feels as if I was never away.
It must have been the wettest July/August in the Lake District we have had.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

ami-man · « **Reply #79 on:** October 09, 2009, 11:29:06 am »

Hi,

Sorry I am away on holiday from today untill 19th October.
If you post a message or email me at alan-hood@datex.co.uk I will reply on my return.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK


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