Advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes (topic closed please use latest) Regards Alan

[ami-man]

Alan

Thanks for your reply.  There is an index led on the mech and this does not pulsate.  It works fine on the R87 though and the home led flashes at 99 on this too.  Where will I find the opto switch?  I suppose it's possible that it's missing?

Hi Andy,

Look to the right of the right hand index solenoid you should see a bracket  and a screw hole where the opto switch is mounted, this counts the teeth from the home position. The cable from the opto switch goes into the top right hand socket on the Mechanism Control Unit (P203).
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ami-man]

Hi Alan,

Glad to hear that you have sorted out the two issues with your R-93 jukebox.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[syminborn2001]

Hi,

I have managed to get my hands on a Rowe-Ami CTI-1 Crestwood juke. Now call me stupid, but I know VERY LITTLE about electronics, and the honest reason I have got the juke is purely nostalgic. I like the noises that it makes and the music it plays…

I picked it up yesterday and got it home safely. The gentlemen I have bought it off has not had sound from her since just before Christmas. He said when he got it 15 years ago it had the same problem, then one day it just went BOOM and worked ever since – until he put it in storage 18 months ago. He tried to fire her up around 6 months later and got no sound – although all the mechanisms worked fine. Then just before Christmas, he got her working again. It stood dormant in the garage since until I registered my interest, and sure enough, the sounds gone again.

The gent believes the problem could just be because it’s a bit damp and cold in the garage, and once it’s warmed up in my house so to speak, it will kick in again. Failing that, he suspects the amp might well be damaged (I would need to get someone in to do this as I haven’t got a clue).

I have ordered a replacement amp which luckily I found on eBay so hopefully that does it but if you can offer any advice that'd be great.

Simon.

[ami-man]

Hello Simon,

What country do you live in?

If you are in the UK or Europe you could send your amplifier to me for testing/repair, if in the USA I would say Bruce Wentworth is your man.

You could make sure that the cartridge connections are good also where the tone arm cables fit into the back of the small valve base type socket, these are known to come adrift. The plug that goes into this socket should have its pin connections cleaned (use one of the fibre glass pencils for this) it may be as well to splay the pins slightly to give a better connection.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[syminborn2001]

Hi Alan,

Thanks for your reply.

I am in the UK. However, I was playing around with it this weekend and gradually some noise started to creak through. After an hour or so of wobbling this and that, it was coming through very clearly, although the louder the better as low volume comes through with a slight crackle.

I ordered a new amp which arrived this morning (I paid £20 inc postage for it) so I am going to swap it over and see if that fixes it, but if not then I think you could be right with the pins that slot into the arm. There's a little bit too much movement in it so could well be that.

Fingers crossed! I will certainly give you a shout if I don't get anywhere but at least things have progressed a little bit.

All the best,

Simon.

[syminborn2001]

Just FYI, the replacement amp has fixed it completely.

However, a new problem has appeared which you might be able to help with. There's a problem with the selection and in particular, which side of the vinyl it plays. If i press C1 or D1, it plays the same side of the LP.

Any clues?

[ami-man]

Hello Simon,

What you need to find out is if the problem is keyboard or search unit related.
If you remiove the three larger bolts on the search unit you can remove it from the mechanism/carousel, now replace the large molex plug on the side and check that all the contacts are in line (there can be some up and down movement in he plug so check it out)

Now when you select you can see what pins are pushed out the outer row is the A sides and the inner row is the B sides, when we test these out we always test them by goin up a letter and number both for the A side and then the B's.

So test A1, C2, E3 etc then B1, D2, F3 etc. if you do not get the B sides to fire out the pins then you will need to clean the open contacts of S1 & S2 on the search unit and the two open relays on the button bank.
The best way to clean these open/closed relay contacts is to pull a paper taper through them to buff up the contacts.
DO NOT USE WD40  or any switch cleaner it will only cause more problems.
Also do not use sand paper or any other abraisive material.

Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[syminborn2001]

Thanks for the prompt reply Alan. I'll give it a go and let you know.

Simon.

[Andy C]

Hi,

If you require advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes with regards to faults, where to get parts etc by all means leave a post.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man

Hi ive got a problem with a 1965 rowe ami diplomat,is that something you could help with?
Thanks
Andy

[Andy C]

Hi,thanks for the reply
My problem is with a 1965 rowe ami diplomat.
The problem is when the selection is made with the buttons  the selector mechanism turns but the solenoids do not operate and push the selector pins therefore the search just goes on and on.
This problem has just started to happen.
If the selector pins are pushed manually the selection is played as normal.
Any ideas would be great
Thanks

[ami-man]

Hi Andy,

I have posted a reply to this issue a number of times in the past for other people.

You need to clean the open relay contacts on the Search Unit S1 & S2 by pulling a paper taper between the contacts and then make sure that the contacts are making and breaking correctly, do this also to the two relays on the button bank/keyboard assembly they are usually under a plastic cover.

DO NOT CLEAN the contacts with WD40, switch cleaner or any abrasive product such as sandpaper etc.

Please let us know how you get on.

Regards
Alan


Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[Andy C]

Hi,
Thanks for the reply.
I have done as you said but the problem persists,all the contacts look clean and when operated manualy everything works as it should.
Could there be another cause? or is it time to call an adult to come and look.
Again thanks for the suggestion's
Andy

[ami-man]

Hi Andy,

If you have cleaned the S1 and S2 open relay contacts and the other open relay contacts on the button bank then you need to call in your local adult or you could try replacing the search unit in the UK if you can find one with a good board it will cost you £50 plus (infact it would cost you that for a good used circuit board).

What country do you live in I may be able to suggest somebody?

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[Andy C]

Hi Alan,
Again thanks for the reply.
I am in Manchester in the UK and any further help would be appreciated.
Andy

[ami-man]

Hello Andy,

I suggest you contact me off of list so you can make arrangements to get over to see me in Sheffield. I am on holiday for a week from tomorrow afternoon.

If you need a home visit I can suggest that you contact Len Beddow whoes details I will let you know.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
0114 247 0242

[poolman]

Hi,
I have a Laserstar wallphono and it has stopped paging the pages, I have checked all the faulst reference in the Mainenance manual. There is no volts coming out of the keyboard interface when either of the page forward or back keys are pressed both, the 28v and 9v leds are "on" on the interface. The three micro switches are working correctly on the page diplay unit do you think I might to re boot the computer to default as there is no errors showing.
Is there anything else I can check.
Regards
Poolman.

[Andy C]

Hi,
Thanks for the reply i have done as you suggested and contacted Len Beddow.
Ill let you know how i go on.
Thanks again
Andy

[DangerousDave]

Hi,
I’ve just bought my first jukebox, an RI-3, and I’m looking for some advice.
Now I may have been a bit naïve, so I hope you’ll be gentle with me? (but you seem to be a friendly lot.....)

I must admit, the ad heading said: “COMPLETE FOR SPARES OR REPAIRS”
But it went on to say: “WORKED FINE UNTIL LAST YEAR BUT THEN STOPPED WORKING. COMPLETE AND IN PRETTY GOOD CONDITION.
HAS NOT BEEN MESSED AROUND WITH. SPACE NOW NEEDED”.

As I have a career in telecoms spanning 40 years, including maintenance of electro-mechanical and electronic equipment, I thought I should be up to the challenge.
If it WAS working, then I should be able to get it going again, right?
Alarm bells started ringing when I looked inside and saw a number of “choc-block” and crimp type connectors in the loom, which you would not expect in something that had “not been messed around with”!

I understand that this model is 160 selections (ie It should hold 80 discs and that’s how many strips there are in the title panel). My suspicions were further aroused when I saw that the carousel has space for 100 discs!

I have obtained a field service manual for an RI-3 and notice a number of other discrepancies. For example, the amplifier does not look like the one in the pictures.
According to the manual, the amplifier should be part number 6-09166-01.
However, mine is labelled R-3760B

The label on the cabinet says: Model RI-3   Serial No 838156
So at least the cabinet looks appropriate for an RI-3

According to the manual, the Central Control Computer should be part number 6-08870-04.
However, mine is labelled 6-08870-06

According to the manual, the Mechanism Control should be part number 4-07221-02.
However, mine is labelled 4-07221-03

My mechanism is labelled 6-08700-01  Serial No 071056 but I can’t find a part number for the mechanism listed in the manual.

So my question is: What have I got and is it worth spending time and effort on?
Or should I sell it on for spares and look for another project??

Looking forward to your replies.
Cheers
Dave.

[ami-man]

Hello Dave,

Welcome to the joys of jukebox ownership.
What Country you you live in? I am from the UK.

The Rowe Ami RI-3 Jewel was produced in 1980 it uses a standard 200 selection mechanism but the selections were limited to 160 selection because there was not sufficient title space. A diode was placed in the Pricing Board to disallow 8 & 9 being selected as a third digit. With the diode removed it will play all 200 selections.

The amplifier that is in the jukebox currently dates from around the early to mid 70's.
The wiring may have been altered to accommodate the amplifier, the original amplifier would have had a standard phono input into two phono sockets, the volume control would have been via a black (round) 7 pin molex plug, the mute was a brown 7 pin molex plug type and the phono output was via a white 7 pin molex plug type. The standard amp was a 50 watt stereo amp with onboard output package.

I would suggest to you that you send in your boards for testing/repair to me if you live in the UK.

The boards required would be as follows:-

CCC (Central Control Computer)
Mechanism Control Unit
Pricing Board (the board just under the CCC)


The boards you have in the jukebox are correct the differences are just the rivision numbers.

You mention the wiring and the crimp type connections would be the normal way for the loom being produced but and with screw down terminal strips indicate something has been altered.

Other than the boards the main issue with the jukebox can be rotted speaker cone surrounds (normally foam) these can be renewed by buying foam surround kits and is the best course of action assuming the paper cone is intact and the voice coil is not binding. I also provide a repair service on the speakers with regards to the foam surrounds.

I give free advice on all Rowe Ami jukeboxes and can provide spare parts, repairs ( including all the electronic boards and amplifiers) and servicing on this and most other Rowe Ami jukeboxes.

A number of people have been using this type of jukebox to make the Continental Copy rebuild, a vendor on Ebay offers an instruction CD for for sale.

Yes the jukebox is worth it you have not paid too much.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk 

[DangerousDave]

Hi Alan,
Thanks very much for your reply – it’s good to know that I seem to have all the correct components (other than the amp, which I don’t see as too much of a problem at the moment). And yes, I’m in the UK – Westgate on Sea, Kent.
I am so impressed with everyone’s generosity in sharing their expertise on this forum, particularly as some seem to be “in the trade”.

I’ll happily send the boards off for testing/repair but I’d just like to understand a few things myself first.
So, a load more questions I’m afraid………..

Although sold as “not working” the jukebox does in fact partly work in a temperamental manner.
Sometimes when it is switched on, nothing happens (other than the fluorescent tube lights).
Other times, it will grab whatever record is there, play it, put it back in the carousel and then the carousel just keeps rotating.
Other times the carousel just keeps rotating and no record is selected.

I understand that while the carousel is rotating, the “Opt Sw Index” LED should be flashing and the “Opt Sw Home” LED should flash as it passes position 99. Neither of these is happening.

I also noticed that the 28 VAC LED was not lit. Wiggling the “phono harness” plug will make it come on but it doesn’t seem to make any difference to the machine’s operation. What is the 28 VAC used to power?

Thanks for your patience.
Cheers
Dave

[ami-man]

Hello Dave,

As you must be aware I am in the trade and do most of the Rowe Ami board repairs for both Roving engineers and end users alike.

With all jukeboxes that come to us unknown, you start checking from the power supply upwards if there is a fault on the 28 volt AC line then the transfer and mechanism motor will not opperate. Usually the main problems on power supply boards is the 28 volts DC and 8 volts DC.

Give me a call and we can talk about your problems.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood (ami-man)
Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH

0114 247 0242
alan-hood@datex.co.uk

[pinballvideojuke]

Hello, I've been asked to repair a Rowe/AMI LaserstarCD Eagle that is "throwing" CDs. When I arrived there were 6 sitting on the platter. When I removed them and tried to play something it didn't seem to read the CD, so I (very carefully - grounded myself to the player first!) cleaned the laser lens with alcohol and a q-tip and then cleaned all the CDs which were somewhat covered with grime. I followed the instructions in the manual for a couple of adjustments but they really didn't seem off much. The height between platter and magnetic grabber (forgive my terminology mistakes) was within specs. I also adjusted the optical sensor for the carriage and it seemed fine. I was wondering if there was supposed to be some lubrication on the gears and piston of the grabber - they were all quite dry. I couldn't find anything in the manuals about that. I initialized all the discs and played 30-40 tracks (skipping/rejecting most of them) and it seemed fine, so I headed on my way. I assumed (yeah, I know, bad idea) it wasn't reading some of the dirty CDs and that I had solved the problem. A few hours later they called and said it was doing it again. I just don't know where to go from here. I was never able to actually see it "throw" a CD or place two on top of each other. It worked flawlessly with me watching (imagine that) many, many times. Maybe the grabber isn't grabbing (occasionally), so it just keeps piling them up? TIA guys.

[Ken Layton]

Does it have the CDPRO player kit installed?

[pinballvideojuke]

Yes Ken, it's a CDPro player. Thank you.

[pinballvideojuke]

Are you thinking I should replace it?

[pinballvideojuke]

Tech support at Rowe/AMI recommended an adjustment of the grabber mechanism. He said it was in the book, but I don't remember seeing it or I would have done that for sure. The manual is with the juke, 40 miles away. I hope I can figure it out when I get there.

[ami-man]

My advice would be to trip down the gripper bow assembly on site and clean off any lubrication that maybe present, the best way to do this once you have the assembly in pieces is towash all the parts down in luke warm soapy water.

Check that the nylon gears are not worn and reassemble put high melting point grease in the trunion casting sockets.

I would also check the magnetic hub and replace if needs be.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Ken Layton]

Sometimes the cork piece attached to the magnetic hub either falls off or gets too worn down or caked with gunk.

[pinballvideojuke]

Thanks guys. Looks like I'm going to battle with this gripper arm assembly. I'll have to figure out what a trunion casting socket is when I get in there! The cork piece did look caked with gunk, so I'll try to carefully clean it, I suppose. I don't have any parts. This is the only jukebox with CDs that I service now, and most of my experience is with NSM which has a completely different way of handling CDs, as you know. Have a good one!

[Ken Layton]

I use either lighter fluid or alcohol on a cotton swab to clean the gunk from the cork piece.

[pinballvideojuke]

Excellent. I carry alcohol and q-tips. Thanks a million.

[pinballvideojuke]

Get ready to laugh your rear ends off. I got the gripper taken apart and I don't know how to put it back together! I don't know how to line up the gears! When you're done laughing, maybe someone could give me some insight into how to put this back together right? I brought the whole mechanism home. Oh, man. I need to just retire. LOL

[ami-man]

Hello pinballvideojuke,

The two gears are called the Trunnion Gear & the Cam Gear, the trunnion gear is the outer one on the casting and is keyed, the one you will have to get right is the cam gear. In the rest position (not playing) the cam lays almosy horizontal. On the cam on one side you will see a hole in it, this hole on the long edge should be at the bottom or away from you so it can not be seen in the rest position.

It could be however that you have got the trunion casting upside down, this is easy to do on the earlier mechanism that had the wire separators rather than the open basket.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[pinballvideojuke]

Thank you Alan. I did have the trunion casting upside down, but I figured that out.  I knew that hole on the cam gear could help, but I didn't see any other indicators to line the hole up with. With your advice, I think I can get it now.

[pinballvideojuke]

I got it back together and perfectly in time, thanks to Ami-man.

[pinballvideojuke]

I'd like to enlighten everyone to my adventures with this Rowe Laserstar CD Eagle (wall box). To recap what has happened :

The original problem was the jukebox was "throwing" CDs. I'd make an adjustment, think I had it fixed and the problem would return, as soon as I left!
With help from Ami-man and Ken Layton, I was able to get the mechanism of this jukebox working very smoothly, after removing it from the juke. I took the gripper mechanism apart and cleaned and lubed everything (didn't lube the plastic gears). I adjusted the magazine (slop and center position), platter height, and optical switch. I cleaned all the CDs and very carefully cleaned the laser lens. I used compressed air and cleaned everything spotless. I think I performed almost every adjustment! The thing is, that didn't fix it. Read on.

Check this out guys: I went back to the location and reinstalled the mechanism in the jukebox. I played a song or two and observed the operation. Beautiful. I cued up a few more, closed the door and played the Megatouch. I went back to take a last peek inside and found TWO CDs ON THE PLATTER! At this point, I'm more than a little confused, but determined. I had thought all along that the CD Pro player may be getting a little weak in the laser, but I didn't think that could cause this particular problem. On a hunch, I almost closed the door and peeped in through the crack to find the fluorescent lamp fixture leaning over the gripper arm. Talk about a light coming on. I had found the problem, finally. The plastic bracket that holds the F8T5 bulb was broken, so I used zip ties to tie it back close to its original position. I haven't heard back from them, so I think that did it. It's possible that this was the problem all along, so remember guys, KISS. In troubleshooting, observing the problem is key. I was never able to actually see it duplicate the problem because when I had the door open to watch the mechanism, the fluorescent fixture (attached to the door) was well out of the way! No wonder it would work flawlessly when I was there and as soon as I would leave, the problem would return! Duh! Alright, wrapping this one up. Until the next head scratcher, you guys have a good one and remember to Keep It Simple Stupid!

[ami-man]

Glad to hear that you have sorted it and as you say it is the usually the simple answer.
One of the main problems with letting a site have keys is that if there is problems they will dable, when we operated one of the usual problems was with broken gripper bows.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[cobraglf]

I recently acquired a 1953 model e-120 AMI , and was wondering if anyone could tell me how to set it to free play.  This is my first box, and am having all sorts of fun getting this thing going again, but can't seem to find much info. on setting the free play.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[TxBigBull]

Greetings all.  I'm a newby so please be gentle!  I recently purchased an r-87 and when it is powered on it grabs a record and places it on the turntable, the tone arm moves over and then back to rest, then the record is placed back in the rack only to repeat all the preceeding.  Is this likely an adjustment?  The previous owners said it had been working perfectly and it has not been powered up in a couple of years and now this.  Thanks for your time and assistance. 

[ami-man]

Hello,

Sorry you did not leave a name.

The problem could be down to dry joints (called cold joints USA) on the connections pins in the boards, but more than likely it will be a board fault. If you are in the USA I would say send your board to Bruce Wentworth for testing/repair, if you are in Europe you could send in the boards to me.

I normally ask for the following boards and test them as a set of boards:-

CCC (central Control Computer)
Mechanism Contol Unit (mounted onto the front of the mechanism/carousel)
Pricing Board (mounted under the CCC it has a clear plastic cover)

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK