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Reproduction DK 4-way joystick
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blkdog7:

--- Quote from: WunderCade on March 22, 2008, 02:19:06 pm ---Mike, I forgot to ask if your repro joystick was improved upon the original? The biggest problem I'm having with the original is it wobbliness at center position, largely due to the spacing between the sticks shaft and the metal leafs. Some have been looking for a nylon washer to wrap around that shaft to "snug" it up more on center.

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Isn't that how it's supposed to be, though? I thought the point of this was to capture the original feel too, no?
WunderCade:
Well, I don't know. The DK I have has an original leaf switch Wico on it from Nintendo and it is snug and great to play. It's my DK Jr. that has the regular version like this reproduction, but it almost seems broken it's so loose on center. That can't be the intent they had IMO. But perhaps it's just mine that's doing it.
MaximRecoil:

--- Quote from: WunderCade on March 22, 2008, 02:34:26 pm ---Well, I don't know. The DK I have has an original leaf switch Wico on it from Nintendo and it is snug and great to play. It's my DK Jr. that has the regular version like this reproduction, but it almost seems broken it's so loose on center. That can't be the intent they had IMO. But perhaps it's just mine that's doing it.

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That's they way they all are. It is a matter of personal preference whether it bothers you or not. It doesn't bother me for example.

If you put in a heavy enough spring it would keep it more firmly centered and give it more of a "breaking off center" feel when you move it to any of the directions.

And your Wico was not from Nintendo, it was from Wico (they made a version that was a direct replacement for a Nintendo DK stick, but Nintendo had nothing to do with it).
MaximRecoil:

--- Quote from: pcb on March 22, 2008, 11:18:03 am ---I don't' have a final price yet.  Still have to add up the costs.

The shaft in the picture is chrome, but the finals will be in Stainless Steel.

Yes, the parts will be available.

Two ball tops will be available, 1 1/4" (31.5mm) and 1" (25.4mm), both have M8 x 1.25 threads like the original.

The 'yellow' plastic ring was originally clear, I'm looking for suitable material for these.

The springs are custom wound just for this project.

The microswtiches are Omron's closest available micro to the original, the bend was custom done specifically for Nintendo, however the straight actuator seems to work just fine on the stick.

The screws are all Stainless self-tapping screws, they work well and form a nice solid thread.

The 4-way restrictor on the bottom can be replaced with an 8-way or an 4 way if desired.

I may run some of the different shafts, I recently acquired some with the extra threads on bottom, but need a 'brass bell' to see if these can be repro'd also.

 - Mike -

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Excellent. I can't wait to try one out. BTW, how long would you need to have access to a brass "bell" from an SPO joystick for in order to make a reproduction? I'm planning to take the relevant SPO stick parts to a local machinist and see what they think, as soon as I get my truck back from the garage. What if I could get the parts documented? Would that be something you could work with? Or potentially, what about you working directly with my local machinist? I'm just thinking out loud here though; I don't even know if it is something they can/would do or how big of an order they would require, what it would cost, etc.
pcb:

--- Quote from: MaximRecoil on March 22, 2008, 02:56:15 pm ---BTW, how long would you need to have access to a brass "bell" from an SPO joystick for in order to make a reproduction?

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I'd need it long enough to measure it up and draw it.  Same with the extra switch pieces on the bottom.
FYI, the only difference is between it and a DK stick is the treads on the bottom, and the part under the ball is 17.5mm instead of 22mm.  It's close enough that I could change the shaft design to just add the threads for the bell at the bottom.

As for the slop, yes it still has the same slop!  I'm looking at different things to try and minimize it.  I could offer a fatter actuator that would make contact quicker.  But it probably wouldn't work well as a 4-way in that case, I'll play with that idea after the repros are done.
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