Is Mike's DK replacement joystick decent?

[blkdog7]

I have not been too happy with the stock joystick on my DK machine. It seems really hard to use and my kids struggle with it big time.

Today I ordered one of Mikearcades.com replacement joysticks with the Nintendo adapter. Has anyone else used this joystick? Is this a good choice?

I want the joystick to LOOK as stock as possible and this looks pretty good. What do you guys think of this joystick?



See it here:

http://mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=JOYBBMS4W8WS

[rrcade]

I don't know but I do know his so called Nintendo buttons aren't correct, you practically have to hammer them in.  Just a little TOO big.

[blkdog7]

I ordered the buttons from him and did not have this experience. They fit nicely in my cabinet and they look good!!!

Check them out:

http://www.zerocommit.com/dk

[Lutus]

Do you have the original Nintendo Joystick in the machine?

[pcb]

I don't know but I do know his so called Nintendo buttons aren't correct, you practically have to hammer them in.  Just a little TOO big.

You must have gotten the wrong ones sent out.  We have both the 1 1/16" and the 1 1/8" ones.  You can send 'em back for the correct ones if you'd like.   Or better still, PM me your order number and we'll get another set out to you, no charge.

Best,

 - Mike -

[blkdog7]

Do you have the original Nintendo Joystick in the machine?

Yes, I do have the original joystick. I guess I could have cleaned it up but figured I'd give that one Mike is selling a shot first.

And,"Hi Mike". I didn't realize you posted here. I am finding out that this arcade world is very very small!

[Ginsu Victim]

You must have gotten the wrong ones sent out.  We have both the 1 1/16" and the 1 1/8" ones.  You can send 'em back for the correct ones if you'd like.   Or better still, PM me your order number and we'll get another set out to you, no charge.

Best,

 - Mike -

It's this attitude that cements the fact that I will order from you again.

[CheffoJeffo]

It's this attitude that cements the fact that I will order from you again.

That attitude ... and the fact that he is posting here and being very helpful cemented the fact that I will order from him (small order placed yesterday) when I can.

 

[shardian]

I have not been too happy with the stock joystick on my DK machine. It seems really hard to use and my kids struggle with it big time.

Today I ordered one of Mikearcades.com replacement joysticks with the Nintendo adapter. Has anyone else used this joystick? Is this a good choice?

I want the joystick to LOOK as stock as possible and this looks pretty good. What do you guys think of this joystick?



See it here:

http://mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=JOYBBMS4W8WS

That appears to be a Happ reunion stick with a custom ball-top. That is about the best 4-way microswitch joy you can buy new. It won't feel like a Nintendo 4-way, but it appears that will be a plus for you.

[blkdog7]

It's this attitude that cements the fact that I will order from you again.

That attitude ... and the fact that he is posting here and being very helpful cemented the fact that I will order from him (small order placed yesterday) when I can.

 

I have ordered quite a bit from him over the past month or so. His service and quality is second to none. I highly recommend mike!

[Ginsu Victim]

He also had the second fastest shipping of the four orders I placed. (The fastest being Ultimarc -- UK to OK, USA in three days.)

[Lutus]

I am nearly finished restoring my Donkey Kong Machine and I ordered the complete replacement control panel from Mike.

I do like the joystick above that comes with it, but it is just not the same as the Nintendo joystick.  The Nintendo requires VERY little force to move from one direction to the next (left to right for example). 

This is no big deal until you have been playing for around 20 minutes straight, then you appreciate the ease of use of the Nintendo stick.

Clean your stick up and give it another shot.

I will be routing the replacement control panel to accept the Nintendo joystick.  I will let everyone know how that goes when I write up my Project Announcement tutorial for my DK machine.




Also, I did a board swap with Mike and he is super helpful, and quick shipping, all those things.  He is the man.

[pcb]

That appears to be a Happ reunion stick with a custom ball-top. That is about the best 4-way microswitch joy you can buy new. It won't feel like a Nintendo 4-way, but it appears that will be a plus for you.

Yes, its the same IL base as the reunion joystick, the actuator is the same actuator used on the IL super joystick.  We use IL exclusively now for our joystick bases and actuators, since Happ switched to manufacturing their own when they purchased ChinaTec.  The shafts we use are a little longer and the ball is .069" (1.75mm) larger.  The original ball is 1.181" (30mm) and the new ball is just a tad bigger at 1.250" (31.75mm).

Thanks for the kind words guys!

 - Mike -

[MaximRecoil]

I am nearly finished restoring my Donkey Kong Machine and I ordered the complete replacement control panel from Mike.

I do like the joystick above that comes with it, but it is just not the same as the Nintendo joystick.  The Nintendo requires VERY little force to move from one direction to the next (left to right for example). 

This is no big deal until you have been playing for around 20 minutes straight, then you appreciate the ease of use of the Nintendo stick.

Clean your stick up and give it another shot.

I will be routing the replacement control panel to accept the Nintendo joystick.  I will let everyone know how that goes when I write up my Project Announcement tutorial for my DK machine.




Also, I did a board swap with Mike and he is super helpful, and quick shipping, all those things.  He is the man.

Yeah, the Nintendo stick has a light spring and is pretty slick when cleaned and lubricated properly. Due to their mostly-enclosed steel pivot bearing design, they are more prone to getting gunked up and sticking than many other joysticks (e.g. a Happ Super type joystick with its open design and nylon pivot parts); especially after 25 years of neglect. But I've yet to see one that wouldn't clean up and work fine.

[rrcade]

I don't know but I do know his so called Nintendo buttons aren't correct, you practically have to hammer them in.  Just a little TOO big.

You must have gotten the wrong ones sent out.  We have both the 1 1/16" and the 1 1/8" ones.  You can send 'em back for the correct ones if you'd like.   Or better still, PM me your order number and we'll get another set out to you, no charge.

Best,

 - Mike -

I Apologize, I didn't realize there where two sizes, I just ordered 4 orange buttons for my Punch Out and Mario Bros and they were very tight in both, but they're in now and I'm not gonna try to get them out. Thank you for the offer though....Three cheers for Mike..Huuuraay Huuraay Hurraay. And a big BOOO for me for bashing him without knowing any better BOOOOOOO

[Ginsu Victim]

I'll second that:
BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

[pcb]

I Apologize, I didn't realize there where two sizes, I just ordered 4 orange buttons for my Punch Out and Mario Bros and they were very tight in both.

No apology needed!  I'm just sorry we didn't catch the mistake before shipping the buttons out to you.

 - Mike -

[ArcadEd]

I realize the mouting my be different, but have you considered a Sanwa JLF in 4 way mode?  Then are very loose sticks.

You might need to make a custom plate for it to line up in the same holes though.  Just a thought.

[MaximRecoil]

I realize the mouting my be different, but have you considered a Sanwa JLF in 4 way mode?  Then are very loose sticks.

You might need to make a custom plate for it to line up in the same holes though.  Just a thought.

That's probably what I would get if I wanted something other than the OEM joystick. BTW, you can get the JLF with the Nintendo-style mounting pattern:

Sanwa JLF-TP-8T Ball Handle Joystick, 4 & 8-Way Adjustable
 
This is an awesome Japanese joystick, using high-quality construction and micro-switches, it is adjustable for 4 and 8 way operation. Ideally suited for metal or wood control panels. Non-standard mounting holes for panels with tight spaces, and also a perfect fit for Nintendo control panels. Incorporates Sanwa's simple "screw-on" ball handle design, and a unique pcb-mounted switch design with wiring harness. No need to run a ground wire to all the switches! Includes installed mounting plate, wiring harness, shaft disk and ball top color of your choice from below.

$29.95 *SALE* $24.95

http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/joysticks.shtml

[blkdog7]

Well I took the joystick completely apart and cleaned the living heck out of it. Tons of grease and grime were removed and the thing was looking like new. I lubed up the little bearing thing with some silicone spray and put it all together.

Powered up the machine then took it for a test spin.... It was exactly the same as it was before. Just overall hard to use. It worked, but took too much effort.

Then I decided to remove this....


Voila! It's like a new joystick! It's FAST, it's responsive, it's everything I dreamed it could be. Turns out that little rubber piece on the joystick shaft and below the ball was just too tight against the guard and was creating a lot of friction.

So, now my next question...

Shouldn't the stick be just as smooth with that guard on? The way my machine was I had the clear guard above the CPO, a black one below the CPO, stick goes through, then on the bottom I had a washer/flange piece then the spring, then the barrel then the c-clip. Isn't that how it's supposed to be?

How do you guys roll? Guard above the CPO or no guard above the CPO? I really liked how it looked with the clear guard above the CPO. It made it look real clean and finished.

[MaximRecoil]

Voila! It's like a new joystick! It's FAST, it's responsive, it's everything I dreamed it could be. Turns out that little rubber piece on the joystick shaft and below the ball was just too tight against the guard and was creating a lot of friction.

Yeah, they are slick little joysticks. I don't really see why removing the clear dust washer that sits on top of the CP made a difference though. I would think the friction from that would be minimal. But I might be missing something, because I'm not sure what you mean when you say: "Turns out that little rubber piece on the joystick shaft and below the ball was just too tight against the guard and was creating a lot of friction." What "rubber piece"? You're not talking about the clear/amber collar that is directly below the balltop are you? If so, that shouldn't have been making any contact with the clear dust washer. If it was, your joystick is sitting too low for some reason.

Edit: You're not using the 1/8" thick black plastic base plate that is intended for use with metal control panels are you? That would cause the joystick to sit too low in a wooden CP, which could cause the amber collar to hit the clear dust washer.

[dgordon86]

I don't mean to jump in, but this is a better time than ever to ask mike's arcade...

I ordered this complete dk setup from you
-- http://mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=CPDKONG

Curious to know if you guys carry a 4 way restricting plate for the joystick you send out with that CP

[blkdog7]

Voila! It's like a new joystick! It's FAST, it's responsive, it's everything I dreamed it could be. Turns out that little rubber piece on the joystick shaft and below the ball was just too tight against the guard and was creating a lot of friction.

Yeah, they are slick little joysticks. I don't really see why removing the clear dust washer that sits on top of the CP made a difference though. I would think the friction from that would be minimal. But I might be missing something, because I'm not sure what you mean when you say: "Turns out that little rubber piece on the joystick shaft and below the ball was just too tight against the guard and was creating a lot of friction." What "rubber piece"? You're not talking about the clear/amber collar that is directly below the balltop are you? If so, that shouldn't have been making any contact with the clear dust washer. If it was, your joystick is sitting too low for some reason.

Edit: You're not using the 1/8" thick black plastic base plate that is intended for use with metal control panels are you? That would cause the joystick to sit too low in a wooden CP, which could cause the amber collar to hit the clear dust washer.

Underneath the CPO it's all metal. Mine looks like this:



Piece #23-29 sits and touches the dust washer that is above the CPO if I leave it on. 1-70 is above the CPO and 23-14 is below the CPO. 23-16 is all metal and bolts directly to the wooden CP underneath.

[blkdog7]

I also posted some detailed photos I just took of the underside of the CP. Please let me know if it looks like anything is not correct. It seems like the joystick could easily be raised by about 0.25". I can totally pull on it and bring it up.

The photos are here:

http://zerocommit.com/dk/DKCP/

Thanks for the help!

[MaximRecoil]

I also posted some detailed photos I just took of the underside of the CP. Please let me know if it looks like anything is not correct. It seems like the joystick could easily be raised by about 0.25". I can totally pull on it and bring it up.

The photos are here:

http://zerocommit.com/dk/DKCP/

Thanks for the help!

Everything looks fine to me, even though I can see from your pictures how the amber collar would hit the clear dust washer. I was thinking that maybe your CP wasn't original and someone might have made a replacement without routing a recess for the joystick, but that's not it (your pictures clearly show a recess on the underside of your CP for the joystick). The only thing I can think of is; on another forum I have heard mention that there was a long shaft and a short shaft version of the Nintendo joystick. I don't know if that's true or not (I've only ever seen one shaft length for the Nintendo joystick). But if there really is two shaft lengths, and you have the shorter one when you should have the longer one, then that could cause the problem.

Also, is the CPO original? If the plexi is thicker than it is supposed to be, then that could cause the problem as well.

About being able to "pull up" a quarter inch; all Nintendo joysticks do that (as well as pretty much any other spring-centered joystick). That doesn't help your problem, unless you want to keep the joystick pulled up constantly while you play; which would suck.

[blkdog7]

I also posted some detailed photos I just took of the underside of the CP. Please let me know if it looks like anything is not correct. It seems like the joystick could easily be raised by about 0.25". I can totally pull on it and bring it up.

The photos are here:

http://zerocommit.com/dk/DKCP/

Thanks for the help!

Everything looks fine to me, even though I can see from your pictures how the amber collar would hit the clear dust washer. I was thinking that maybe your CP wasn't original and someone might have made a replacement without routing a recess for the joystick, but that's not it (your pictures clearly show a recess on the underside of your CP for the joystick). The only thing I can think of is; on another forum I have heard mention that there was a long shaft and a short shaft version of the Nintendo joystick. I don't know if that's true or not (I've only ever seen one shaft length for the Nintendo joystick). But if there really is two shaft lengths, and you have the shorter one when you should have the longer one, then that could cause the problem.

Also, is the CPO original? If the plexi is thicker than it is supposed to be, then that could cause the problem as well.

About being able to "pull up" a quarter inch; all Nintendo joysticks do that (as well as pretty much any other spring-centered joystick). That doesn't help your problem, unless you want to keep the joystick pulled up constantly while you play; which would suck.

It's not the original plexi. The seller replaced it before I bought it. I wonder if that's the problem! I wonder if I could mic my joystick to find out if it's the correct length or not.

[pcb]

I ordered this complete dk setup from you
-- http://mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=CPDKONG

Curious to know if you guys carry a 4 way restricting plate for the joystick you send out with that CP

No we don't, but your actuator should have the narrow end up, which makes it a 4-way stick.

[MaximRecoil]

It's not the original plexi. The seller replaced it before I bought it. I wonder if that's the problem! I wonder if I could mic my joystick to find out if it's the correct length or not.

If it is not the original plexi, then that is most likely the problem. Thinner plexi would give you more joystick height/clearance. How thick is the replacement plexi that is on it? Someone who owns a DK with an original CPO could probably tell you how thick the plexi is supposed to be.

And I'm skeptical about there being two different shaft lengths for Nintendo joysticks. It is a possibility of course, but doubtful IMO (if anyone knows for sure then speak up). Your joystick is probably the original that came with the machine.

In the meantime, it isn't that big of a deal. Lots of DK machines don't have the top clear dust washer, plus you still have the lower black dust washer. You got it working smoothly, and that's the important thing.

[MaximRecoil]

I ordered this complete dk setup from you
-- http://mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=CPDKONG

Curious to know if you guys carry a 4 way restricting plate for the joystick you send out with that CP

No we don't, but your actuator should have the narrow end up, which makes it a 4-way stick.

That joystick is based on a Happ Super right? If so, RandyT sells a true 4-way restrictor for the Super:



Link

Would that work?

[pcb]

Yup, that should do it.

[Paul Olson]

I just ordered a long stick from a guy on the forum. It should be here Monday or Tuesday; I will take a pic of both sticks when it gets here. From what I have read here, the short version is from the VS. machines that had control panels. Donkey Kong and others that had a wooden CP, needed a longer stick.

I have the 8-ways from  (I'm assuming) a vs. cab. I bought the 4-way restrictor from the BST forum, now I just need the right stick. I was going to to make a mounting plate, but I would rather just have the longer stick, so I bought one.

If anyone sees this who has an original DK cab: Can you please measure the height of the stick above the panel? I want to make sure the feel is genuine to the original cab. Thanks

[blkdog7]

I just ordered a long stick from a guy on the forum. It should be here Monday or Tuesday; I will take a pic of both sticks when it gets here. From what I have read here, the short version is from the VS. machines that had control panels. Donkey Kong and others that had a wooden CP, needed a longer stick.

I have the 8-ways from  (I'm assuming) a vs. cab. I bought the 4-way restrictor from the BST forum, now I just need the right stick. I was going to to make a mounting plate, but I would rather just have the longer stick, so I bought one.

If anyone sees this who has an original DK cab: Can you please measure the height of the stick above the panel? I want to make sure the feel is genuine to the original cab. Thanks

Please measure your stick when you get it. I am very curious to see how our sticks stack up (that didn't sound right, did it?? )

[Paul Olson]

No, that did not sound right at all, and I even intentionally avoided the use of the word shaft to try to prevent this issue.

[Paul Olson]

Just a note about the difference between Mike's replacement stick and the original. As a disclaimer, the reunion base is widely regarded as the best 4-way microswitch on the market, and Mike's addition of a DK style ball top makes this joystick a good cosmetic substitute. I don't want anyone to think that I am bicking on this product or Mike, because I am not; this is probably the best NEW replacement you will find.

I have a regular reunion stick, and I will probably end up selling it someday, It just does not feel anything like the old sticks. Not just DK, but pacman and other old games as well. I did not think there would be much of a difference and I planned to only use Happs (I quess IL now that Happs is not using theirs) for all of the games. It just did not work on the classics for me. Now I understand why people love the wicos, they are a much better (IMHO) stick for the classics than the reunion stick. If you need one 4-way stick for the classics, this would be my choice. If you are like me, and you spent way too much of your teenage life playing DK, then you will never really be happy with anything but the original stick. With the wico stick I am now scoring in the 80,000s (after at least 15 years of not playing, I am pretty happy with that for now), so the stick is as capable as the original. It requires more force to use, and I do miss the easy and rapid movements of the old nintendo sticks. Once I remember how to get past the 3rd elevators, I will really appreciate the light spring in the nintendo stick, because games can get pretty long.

If you never played DK, you will probably be fine using Mike's reunion stick. My girlfriend is about 10 years younger than me, and she prefers the newer sticks, where I find them unusable. Choose whatever works for you. I just want everyone to understand that  this stick is a cosmetic replacement for the original, it will not replicate the feel.

[pcb]

I just ordered a long stick from a guy on the forum. It should be here Monday or Tuesday; I will take a pic of both sticks when it gets here. From what I have read here, the short version is from the VS. machines that had control panels. Donkey Kong and others that had a wooden CP, needed a longer stick.

I have the 8-ways from  (I'm assuming) a vs. cab. I bought the 4-way restrictor from the BST forum, now I just need the right stick. I was going to to make a mounting plate, but I would rather just have the longer stick, so I bought one.

If anyone sees this who has an original DK cab: Can you please measure the height of the stick above the panel? I want to make sure the feel is genuine to the original cab. Thanks

Notice all the parts from the VS Stick that start with a TKGU  or TMAU prefix, TKGU = Donkey Kong Upright, TMAU = Mario Bros.  The new part 10, makes the joystick sit lower on the metal VS control panel.  Part 13 says Knob with Shaft 80.5L. My DK manual and the DKJr manual lists the shaft as part TKGU-23-19 and DJR1-23-19, so it may well have a different shaft.  While the DK3 manual, Mario and the VS list it as part number TMAU-12-18.   Looks like I'll need to do some investigation this week and let everyone know.

 - Mike -

[MaximRecoil]

I just ordered a long stick from a guy on the forum. It should be here Monday or Tuesday; I will take a pic of both sticks when it gets here. From what I have read here, the short version is from the VS. machines that had control panels. Donkey Kong and others that had a wooden CP, needed a longer stick.

I have the 8-ways from  (I'm assuming) a vs. cab. I bought the 4-way restrictor from the BST forum, now I just need the right stick. I was going to to make a mounting plate, but I would rather just have the longer stick, so I bought one.

If anyone sees this who has an original DK cab: Can you please measure the height of the stick above the panel? I want to make sure the feel is genuine to the original cab. Thanks

Notice all the parts from the VS Stick that start with a TKGU  or TMAU prefix, TKGU = Donkey Kong Upright, TMAU = Mario Bros.  The new part 10, makes the joystick sit lower on the metal VS control panel.  Part 13 says Knob with Shaft 80.5L. My DK manual and the DKJr manual lists the shaft as part TKGU-23-19 and DJR1-23-19, so it may well have a different shaft.  While the DK3 manual, Mario and the VS list it as part number TMAU-12-18.   Looks like I'll need to do some investigation this week and let everyone know.

 - Mike -

I would like to get the straight of this too. The metal control panel joysticks (Punch-Out, VS., PC-10, etc.) all have that plastic plate that makes the stick mount lower, like I asked blkdog7 about earlier in this thread, and like you mentioned as being part #10 in your attached image. That's why I'm skeptical about the idea of there being different shaft lengths for Nintendo joysticks; because that black plastic spacer plate already accounts for the height difference between metal and wood CP mounting.

I know that there are different shaft/ball top combinations, in that, some Nintendo joysticks have a removable ball top secured with an allen-head set-screw, while others have a permanent ball top. As far as I know, they are the same height though. That difference may account for the different part numbers you mentioned.

[blkdog7]

I just ordered a long stick from a guy on the forum. It should be here Monday or Tuesday; I will take a pic of both sticks when it gets here. From what I have read here, the short version is from the VS. machines that had control panels. Donkey Kong and others that had a wooden CP, needed a longer stick.

I have the 8-ways from  (I'm assuming) a vs. cab. I bought the 4-way restrictor from the BST forum, now I just need the right stick. I was going to to make a mounting plate, but I would rather just have the longer stick, so I bought one.

If anyone sees this who has an original DK cab: Can you please measure the height of the stick above the panel? I want to make sure the feel is genuine to the original cab. Thanks

Notice all the parts from the VS Stick that start with a TKGU  or TMAU prefix, TKGU = Donkey Kong Upright, TMAU = Mario Bros.  The new part 10, makes the joystick sit lower on the metal VS control panel.  Part 13 says Knob with Shaft 80.5L. My DK manual and the DKJr manual lists the shaft as part TKGU-23-19 and DJR1-23-19, so it may well have a different shaft.  While the DK3 manual, Mario and the VS list it as part number TMAU-12-18.   Looks like I'll need to do some investigation this week and let everyone know.

 - Mike -

I am guessing that on the VS. stick the shaft with 80.5L is referring to its length which is 80.5mm or  3.16929134 inches. Couldn't we just simply measure the sticks and find out? Or would this be hard to do without removing the ball?

[Paul Olson]

The length of my vs. stick is about 3 1/4" . And yes, it actually is pretty hard to measure with the ball. I will measure the "long" stick when it arrives Monday or Tuesday. I will try to remember to take them to work so I can measure them with calipers so I can be more accurate.

[jimkirk]

blkdog7 has got a vs joystick which is shorter than DK stick. I have both sticks myself. I have the longer stick with the same dustwashers and no problems at all.

[Paul Olson]

Vid Jim,
Do you have a measurement for the long stick? If not I will measure mine when it gets here. We need to try to get this info into the wiki once we get it all sorted out.

Off topic, I scored 117,200 on DK last night.     First time I have been over the century mark since the 80s. Watch out Billy and Steve, I'm gonna getcha.