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Putting Together the MDF
atomaka:
--- Quote from: shmokes on May 23, 2003, 01:28:43 am ---My 1x1's are actually 3/4"x3/4". Is that a problem or is it kind of like 2"x4" not being accurate? When you'all refer to 1x1's are you talking about what I have? I haven't used them yet and I don't want to if it's not adequate.
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I believe as long as you have the correct length screws (you'd need something like 1.25" for 3/4" blocks), then you should be set. The point is not the amount of wood, but the fact that you are going through somethign other than the MDF for added support and that all the screws are internal.
And regarding my question: So no one has done this a different way. I'm just scouting around for ideas still. It seems as if the block "frame" method is the way to go judging by the response here ;)
Oh, and skirge66, Redwings rock!!
shmokes:
Well...there's the L brackets idea. Some people have made a frame out of 2x4's and attached all the panels to that.
SirPoonga:
What others said. You can look at the contrstuction of my cabinet, you see I used 1x1s.
Bill_S:
I pre-drilled and counter-sunk the particle board and attached it to itself with no internal frame.
For the pre-drilling, I drilled holes slightly bigger than the major screw diameter for the pieces with the screw head (the hole I counter sunk) and drilled holes slightly smaller than the minor diameter for the mating part.
I used coarse drywall scrwes to attach the 2 pieces and glued them as well.
I suppose people use the above mentioned methods to avoid seeing the screws, but drywall screws are black, and since I countersunk them and painted over them with my black paint no-one even notices them.
Since I built the cab this way, I did something else most people don't seem to do. I made the cab bottom large enough so everything sits on it and it supports the vertical load. My casters are then mounted below.
The monitor shelf (27" TV in my case) I built gives the cab stiffness at the top.
It's holding up just fine this way. It made it through a move last summer just fine with only a couple paint chips.
You'll never take it apart though, so make sure it fits through a 28" doorway.
bionicbadger:
I used 2x4s (cut in half for the upper part near the marquee), pre-drilled a pilot hole (slightly narrower than the screw) through the 2x4 and into the mdf on the side and front panels. Secured the 2x4's to the base with L brackets, and cross braced by adding a couple more short 2x4 to support the monitor. All the screws are inside on the side panels and front, so there are no visible screws, and the 2x4 frame is really strong (downside is its a bit heavy, but who cares, its strong). My cabinet will fit easily through doorways so I don't have to take it apart to move it. If you have to/or plan to take it apart, I would advise against screwing into the MDF, and instead use bolts.