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NEED HELP - Nintendo Vs Unisystem (SMB & RBI) to MAME

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2600:
The pics are great in letting us help you.

First, you do not have the inverter board for the monitor.  You would need this if you want to hook up to a PC.  Or you can buy a replacement one from Mikesarcade.com.

Second, the hum isn't coming from the speaker itself, but the electronics so I would throw them out yet.

Stobe:
Well, you've got your work cut out for you (as you know).

As 2600 alluded to, your monitor looks to be a Sanyo (20EV?) that was used in most Nintendo cabinets.  It uses inverted video, so you'll have to invert the video coming from the AVGA, if you go that route.  Another option (and I know this goes against your original convictions)... take out the working Sanyo monitor and sell it (they fetch good money if working) and mount in a cheap 19-20" computer CRT.  You'll profit from the sale of the Sanyo, and you wont need an AVGA (saves ~$100).

Controls:  Easy enough.  Keep your existing CP wiring harness, and cut the harness on the far side of the connectors.  This way, uoi can easily wire your CP to an encoder, and still be able to remove the CP easily if needed.  If you decide to ditch your nintendo joysticks (many don't like them), I've replaced mine with a J-stick with a black balltop from LizardLick Amusments (or buy the whole joystick from them with the black ball).  They also sell a nintendo replacement joy, but I like the jstick for its easy 4-8 way change, and true 4 way restriction.  The mounting plate will fit in the CP if you shave just a little bit off the metal, or off the routed wood area.

Sound:  simply amplify the mono speaker built in. 

Power:  I would buy a cheap power strip (or a smart strip if you want that extra functionaility) and cut off the 3-prnng plug.  Inside your nintendo cab, you should have a 2 plug connector coming from the power switch (white and black), you should also have a green ground running around the cabinet.  Be sure to double check all this, but for me, the white and black wires coming from the switch matched up with the white and black wires on my power strip, and of course the green goes to green.  Please double check all this, and if you need a procedure for checking, let me know.  With the power strip wired right to the switch, you can run your computer and speakers, and whatever else you needed from the outside switch.

Power (part 2):  to somewhat complicate things.  The nintendo cabinet uses 100VAC for the marquee light and monitor.  If you replace the monitor with PC CRT, no prob.  Then just replace the marquee light with a standard floro, and hook everything up to your new power strip.  One-switch operation then.

If you keep your monitor, you'll need to keep the 100V transformer hooked up to the incoming AC, and continue to use the little 2 plug AC plate you see in between your PCB cage and DC power supply.  Then you would be using the 100VAC for monitor and marquee, and 120VAC for computer, speakers, etc.

I'm more than familiar with all this, because I just finished a similar project.  So please ask any questions you may have.

-Stobe

Stobe:
On a side note:

Where are you located?  I'd be more than happy to give you a more mame-friendly cabinet in trade for the nintendo cabinet :)  Make your life a lot easier :)

-Stobe

rolandcs:
Thanks for the info Stobe & 2600. Very helpful. The more I think about it, I may in fact ditch the original monitor and put in a PC. Any good recommendations? Any good places to post the monitor for sale?

2600, you mentioned the hum was likely electronics. The sound is definitely coming through the speaker, but I wouldn't doubt if there's some interference from something...any ideas as to what specifically would do that?

I live in the Chicago 'burbs. As much as swapping the arcade would make my life easier, I'm actually looking forward to this project. I will, however, likely be selling many components including the PCBs, marquees and any other components I don't need.

I went ahead and ordered the I-PAC VE yesterday. I'm going to first see if I can properly wire the controls to the PC and if I can get that far, my next step will be the monitor & audio. I'm going to gut it, hopefully in the next weekend or two in hopes of the I-PAC arrival. My last step, before mounting in the cabinet, is to bondo, re-paint & re-do artwork. I'm likely going to keep the same blue paint with white T-mold. I plan on making this Atari plus NES, so I will add those as artwork.

Thanks again for all the advice. Please feel free to forward any and all ideas on to me! I love to hear them!

2600:
The "Nintendo Hum" is pretty wide known.   Some people have been successful in minimizing the hum by recapping the audio amplifier board that is right next to the monitor chassis.  It can be eliminated by using a separate amplifier which you will have to use anyways.

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