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Anyone using a 25" Wells Gardner 25k7193 monitor for MAME?
johnnya:
No problem :applaud:
--- Quote from: tophatne1 on February 28, 2008, 04:09:38 pm ---
--- Quote from: johnnya on February 28, 2008, 11:29:05 am ---You could have just checked out my selling thread on here, haha. I'm "the guy."
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Nice! I suspected that you were on one of these message boards somewhere once I saw your last email with your list. I missed the listing on the sellers page.
I haven't had much time today to check into everything. I looked at it for a minute but it was to much for me to process while I was at work.
I'll get back to you soon.
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Zebidee:
--- Quote from: tophatne1 on February 28, 2008, 04:18:15 pm ---This is pretty cool!
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Yeah! Believe it or not, I have a WG K7000 monitor chassis of my own that needs a little TLC, but I just never got around to it because I was too busy using some of Joey's new "Sharp Image" chassis on some 29" Philips screens I ripped out of old TVs.
Actually, I swapped the K7000's tube onto a good Neotec 2515C chassis I happenned to have, and have since sold that cabinet.
If you are interested in pursuing this, the 29" Philips tubes work EXCEPTIONALLY WELL, especially once Joey and I worked out the right capacitance values for the screen width capacitors.
BTW, Philips TV tubes are really quite good, very clear & sharp. For many of their TVs, Philips made the CRTs in France, where they spent many millions to make a facility which is magnetically neutral for making CRTs. That is, they eliminate much of the interference caused by the Earth's magnetic field, so that convergence and colour purity are as good as possible. Because of this, Philips tubes made from this facility don't have, and don't need, purity and convergence adjustment rings on the CRT neck. It's all sealed up, as it is perfect already.
Finally, believe it or not, the Philips 29" tubes are easier to fit into most cabinets than a typical 26" WG K7000 tube, because the neck does not go back as far. Trust me! I measured my K7000's 26" tube (model A63 ......something) from the middle of the plane of the mounting pegs to the back of the neck, and it was nearly 50cm!! By comparison, the Philips 29" tube only goes back about 40cm.
I recently sold a cab with a great 29" monitor that I made up out of a Jomac chassis and a Philips TV got from the local recycling centre for $5.
Some Telefunken TVs also use Philips tubes, although they put a Telefunken label on them. Many TV manufacturers buy each other's tubes, which makes sense.
pincky:
--- Quote from: urbecrisch on February 28, 2008, 12:12:12 pm ---
--- Quote from: pincky on February 26, 2008, 11:34:21 pm ---Did you do that yourself i need to do the same for mine
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The scariest thing I had to do so far was discharge my monitor, but both times I did it everything was fine. Just had some buckling of the kneecaps for a few seconds :)
http://www.arcadecup.com/
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YEAH I FEEL THE SAME WAY!!
thanks for the link i am going to check out his web site
Check out my cab so far (wating on new CP and Buttons to come in) [i've got pictures of the joystick and buttons i am gonna use i bought them from ultimarc]
http://pincky.gotdns.com/Pictures/My%20Arcade%20Pictures/
urbecrisch:
Actually the monitor's not bad to discharge cause the models we have are equipped with an auto-discharge which discharges the monitor when powered off (probably not 100%, but way less than other monitors). If you're a little timid to discharge, call chad and he'll walk you through it. I can help out too but I'd rather leave the actual discharging instructions to the "pro". If needed, I can show you what my discharge tool looks like. Just a long flathead screwdriver and some wiring connected to 2 alligator clips. Maybe 10 in parts. The website below is just a pic tutorial on discharging a monitor. My tool looks like the one pictured. Good luck!
http://www.arcadegames.net/sightsound/discharge.ppt#1
Zebidee:
One time, I was about to work on a recently used Philips TV, and discharged the anode cap twice.
I was then trying to remove the anode cap, with some difficulty, and was about to get my bare hands in there and push the clips together, to free them from the hole. At the last fraction of a second I paused, and decided to use my grounded screwdriver instead.
Good thing too - because I managed to get a couple more powerful and noisy sparks out of it. If I'd used my fingers, I'd have been very sorry.