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Rotating monitor - Yet another take
csa3d:
--- Quote from: weisshaupt on February 21, 2008, 02:31:12 pm ---Of course, that would mean I would need to purchase u360 sticks....
--- End quote ---
Be warned: There is currently no solution to light the balltop on those ;) Feel free to figure that out as well :laugh2:
-csa
javeryh:
--- Quote from: weisshaupt on February 21, 2008, 10:31:19 am ---CSA asked for a shopping list, and the thought occured that he might not be the only one who would like one..Of course this it not an endorsement of any particular vendor and I am not affiliated in any way with solarbotics.. they just happen to have the parts I used :>)
From Solarbotics:
GM3 motor (easier to mount than the GM2)
http://www.solarbotics.com/products/gm3/
The Regular Motor 2 upgrade
http://www.solarbotics.com/products/rm2/
The mounting Bracket
http://www.solarbotics.com/products/gmb39/
A wheel
http://www.solarbotics.com/products/gmpw/
A Extra Grip Tread (it is a friction drive after all- the more tire that meets the road)
http://www.solarbotics.com/products/gmtt/
And then for the Electronics you need:
A Chip socket:
http://www.solarbotics.com/products/dc-16_pin/
The secret Motor Driver Kit
http://www.solarbotics.com/products/k_smd/
And of course a soldering iron and some solder. The Chip holder isn't required, but if you are a novice at soldering its a good idea. Too much heat on that IC and you could bust it. Solder the socket to the PBC and that can't happen. Plus if you wire something wrong and blow out he chip, you can just put another one it, rather than trying to desolder it or buy another kit.
For wiring I used a CAT 5 (ethernet) cable. I have my own crimping tools, but you can cut one in half and just solder the open ends to the board.
Then you need a DB25 to RJ45 converter..
Similar to this one..
http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/SearchDetail.asp?productID=805
--- End quote ---
I placed the order for parts! Everything came out to about $50 (including the $20 in shipping - ouch!). Delivery is scheduled for March 6th too so it will be a little while before I can test everything. In the mean time I'm going to try and mount the monitor...
csa3d:
--- Quote from: javeryh on February 21, 2008, 03:54:34 pm ---I placed the order for parts! Everything came out to about $50 (including the $20 in shipping - ouch!). Delivery is scheduled for March 6th too so it will be a little while before I can test everything. In the mean time I'm going to try and mount the monitor...
--- End quote ---
NiiicE! I did that a few hours ago! Go team rotate LCD!
DaOld Man:
weisshaupt:
That program I wrote does not control the motor. I was working on one that will control the motor, but the program Koz319 wrote will work for me, except it can not change input polling from positive to negative.
He said he was going to make it so you can set it up. he was also going to experiment with PWM to control motor speed.
I tried using PWM on my project, but I burned up my H Drive and had to build another.
The motor I have has a right angle gearbox, and the output is only about 50 RPM, so I dont think I really need PWM anyway, so I gave up on it.
I am looking at writing an app to turn the monitor with Glaunch (my first love).
Have you thought about braking your motor? Shorting out the motor leads after the drive shuts off will stop the motor pretty quick.
Here are some links that might help you:
My adventures thus far with rotating monitor. You can read about my PWM attempt too, Lots of folks have made contributions to this thread.
Koz319's thread about how he did his setup. (also a link to his website, check it out).
For those of you who dont want to build your own drive. Heres one already put together. (got link form Koz319's website)
I wanted to go with a more powerful motor than you are using, just because I originally planned on turning a CRT, and looks like I am still going to. The motor I used is from a firebird headlight, the ones where the headlights pop up when you turn them on. Got in from a junk yard. They are on ebay too. But all thats in my thread.
So Im just going to let you guys read it, I feel like Ive already hijacked this thread, and I dont want to do that.
Just a few reminders about using the printer port:
Its current capability is very small. So unless your motor is very tiny, it will need some sort of drive. (Check out the relay drive in my thread. Its simple, but speed control is impossible.)
All the outputs will come on when the machine first boots. This can turn your monitor crooked on boot-up. (I think you overcame that with an and gate? I used a pnp transistor to "kill" my optos. see thread.))
On my machine, output #4 is set on by Windows, so i stayed away from it.
I would look into using isolation, opto isolators are cheap and simple. If you mis-wire something and send 12 volts into your printer port, you could fry your computer. (Thats if you use an external power supply for the motor).
Good luck everyone, and I expect comments on my thread when I get back to that project.
weisshaupt:
--- Quote from: DaOld Man on February 21, 2008, 05:06:11 pm ---That program I wrote does not control the motor. I was working on one that will control the motor, but the program Koz319 wrote will work for me, except it can not change input polling from positive to negative.
--- End quote ---
Hey DaOldMan,
Sorry to hear you aren't writting a motor control program.. that means I might have to try..
I looke at the MALA SDK, and while my programming skills are very rusty, if I am reading it right, it shouldn't be too hard to write one -- except I am not smart enough to build fancy menus to set the motor speed etc, and I would read those values from a config file.. (new fangled windows popups with radio buttons-- too complex for me.. )
Okay, I see what KOZ 319 did.. interesting routing the logic through the limit switches. I suppose it saves a pair of resistors, since you are only sending the Ports own logic signal back to it rather than pullling the input to the power supply.. another enhancement to the cause.. I am using positive logic to drive the H-Bridge at the moment, but there is no reason I can't decide 0, 1 means go CCW instead of 1,0... and it simplifies the circuit, which I think is where most people are hoping we head with this, the benefits of Opto isolators notwithstanding..
My program does brake the motor--(either both leads high or both low brakes the motor on the Secret motor driver kit-- its just a small motor so the stop isn't instantaneous with enough rotational momentum..)
--- Quote from: DaOld Man on February 21, 2008, 05:06:11 pm ---All the outputs will come on when the machine first boots. This can turn your monitor crooked on boot-up. (I think you overcame that with an and gate? I used a pnp transistor to "kill" my optos. see thread.))
--- End quote ---
I am curious about this.. If they all come on, then you are sending 1,1 to the H-Bridge, which SHOULD brake the motor. At least it does on mine..
--- Quote from: DaOld Man on February 21, 2008, 05:06:11 pm ---Its current capability is very small. So unless your motor is very tiny, it will need some sort of drive.
--- End quote ---
I wouldn't even try that! Under no circumstance what-so-ever try to power ANY motor with the +5v feed from the printer port! Even these little hobby motors are going to kill it.
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