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Ideas on a homemade 4 way restictor
Cryofax:
Bob : I like that lever idea! A disk that raises up and locks into place around the bottom of the shaft would be quick. Perhaps to keep the panel looking "clean" just something you actually push up from the bottom of the panel right under the stick (wouldn't work for a desktop panel obviously).
BetaCrash : I was thinking just two pieces of wood for the insert in the CP opening with the same finish as the panel so when they're in they blend in. I would think you could make a little mini pry-bar to reach into the opening around the shaft and pull them out quickly.
- Cryo
betacrash:
totally unnecessary. but who cares. and its only about 28kb -betacrash
http://home.fuse.net/betacrash/resrtictor.swf
mw:
Been working on this for the past couple days.
Oscar's Point #1 - "I found that being as little as 1/16" off can make the difference..."
I found that it was more like 1/32". I had everything layed out and working, using double-sided sticky tape. Drilled holes and now my plate doesn't work anymore.
My "Plate" (based on Oscar's) is made from 1/16" laminated plastic and cut on a computerized engraving machine. The 1/32" comes from the play in the plate with my pins installed, if I bolt/tape it down it works again. This brings in Oscar's Point #2 of the mounting plate and the only way I see it working for general distribution (my hat's off to Oscar here). My hesitation with Oscar's plate is ruining my smooth look and something that is UNFOUND & UNPROVEN. I was noticing my plastic was wearing from the joystick shaft, if using metal, which is harder the joystick shaft or the metal on the plate? Not that either would wear out over 10 years, just a passing thought I had.
I like Mike's idea and betacrash's graphic, I'll try it out on the engraving machine to see how the drop in idea works. Once the outside frame is mounted it would be easy to drop in different plates for 4-way, horiz. or vert. The only problem with this would be mounting it properly(See above paragraph). Anyone have a ACAD drawing already done ?
Oscar is the way to go if you want a quick fix, he has done his homework, to make it as easy as possiable to mount (and who doesn't like an easy mount).
1UP:
I can see it now... the first problem you're going to have with 'drop ins' is that they most likely will 'pop out' very easily. You'd have to have something like pins or screws to hold them in place, and that takes us right back to Oscar's design. Worse, if you're just dropping inserts down the joystick shaft, it'd be hard to get them straight in the first place, and then you'd be lucky if they hadn't rotated out of line w/in a few minutes.
On the other hand, I've been working on an idea for a smaller restrictor that would fit into the round indent around the Happ super joystick shaft. It would have a large flat lip all the way around that would be the same depth as the empty square area on top of the super's plastic mounting plate. This way, it would be held down by the control panel itself. From that, there would be a thin metal post with a lever on the end that would reach 3/4" up to the control panel, where you could lift up the black plastic washer beneath the joystick grip[, and flip the restrictor 45 degrees, so it works diagonally or horiz/vertically. Somewhere on the lip, there would be a spring-loaded ball bearing like you have on a ratchet wrench, to lock the restrictor in place (at 45 or 90 degrees.)
Don't know if it all would really work, but I'm going to try a prototype anyway...
Mike:
--- Quote ---totally unnecessary. but who cares. and its only about 28kb
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