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Looking for modular CP feedback (UPDATE: Construction started, pics added)
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Neverending Project:
crummy: The reason I have 3 slots is so I can put a joystick in the center slot, which is where I will be doing the majority of my playing - one player.

telengard: Yes, the wood frame was to minimize movement and to negate the need for screws. But I am now thinking about ditching the posts and base for each module, and just using dowels in the corners of the module plate. This would cut assembly time in half (no bottom plate to manufacture), and the dowels in the corners would hold the module in place.
For the connectors, I was thinking a DB9 or DB15 connector and a USB connector for each module. The DB9 would give me 8 leads plus a ground, or the DB15 would be 14 leads and a ground. The USB would be for things like trackballs or analog steering wheels.

I think I am going to bring the sides in by an inch per side so it doesn't feel so massive, if I can still make everything fit. I will try to get new pics posted soon.
Paul Olson:
Make sure the joystick and button module is not too cramped for you. On my modular panel, I made the joystick and button panels 7" each. This way, there is a bit more space between the stick and buttons - much more comfortable for me.

My panel is 37" wide, and I find it to be very comfortable for two full sized (some oversized) adults to play next to each other. I personally would not want to make it any smaller.

As someone who has a fully modular panel, I would suggest that you at least consider going that way. There is no need to ever build more than the three panels you are planning, but it is nice to be able to if you want to later on. At some point, you may decide that you want to add wheels, yokes, or whatever to your cab; and those might be hard to add with your setup.

Whatever you decide, I think you will be happy going modular. Good luck!


Well, I'm off to try and figure out how to mount a couple of Joust joysticks in wood panels.  :D

Paul

jlfreund:
One suggestion is to change the L/R modules so the only modular part is the joystick, not the buttons.

I can see possibly wanting to switch out 4/8/49/analog/rotary/top fire joysticks, etc, but I don't think it's necessary to take out the 6 buttons at the same time.

I like the idea, but I'm worried how you will handle the connectors?  Ideally the thing just drops in and connects, but in reality you will probably have to go in from the back, reach in, and play with wires to hookup each module (and possibly reboot if the interface doesn't cooperate).

But being able to swap out the center module for a star wars yoke would make it all worth it :)

Jason
Kajoq:
To make the connectors you could just have each module wired to a DB-25 connector so it would be a quick swap.  That control panel has pretty easy to flip latches and swapping a DB25 would not take long at all

Neverending, Do you know if thats originally a Mercs cab?  I bought a Street Fighter 3 cabinet a few months back and its identical to yours, even had the super angled control panel converted to six buttons.  I had been wondering what it could have been originally.

Heres a shot of the cab right after I brought it home


Sorry for the detour!
DaveMMR:
I like it!  I wanted to go modular originally but went the other way for various reasons. 

You're set-up is simple yet versatile and that's the most important thing.  There's little, if anything, I would change on that.


--- Quote from: jlfreund on January 19, 2008, 11:37:18 pm ---One suggestion is to change the L/R modules so the only modular part is the joystick, not the buttons.

--- End quote ---

Just a note on that: if you leave the buttons behind, you won't be able to have dual-joystick modules (for Smash TV, etc.)

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