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Truck won't start
shardian:
It could still be the ignition switch. They are notoriously bad in my Volvo 850. Get your car started, then start wiggling around the key in the ignition in every way. If you can get the car to die without actually turning the key off, then it is most likely your ignition switch.
I also had a Corolla once that had a stuck starter solenoid. I am confused by the folks saying the solenoid is mounted in all these strange places. Is this REALLY true in your cars. I've always known the start solenoid to be physically mounted to the starter. Its purpose is to engage/disengage the starter from the flywheel. What purpose would it serve mounted elsewhere?? :dunno
Anyways, I had a Corolla in which the solenoid could get stuck. When it was stuck, when I hit the ignition the whole electrical system would bog down, thus simulating a dead battery. The problem was fixed by putting the car in gear and rocking it a bit.
lanman31337:
Ford (and AMC) had the solenoid mounted on a separate place. For my CJ5's and CJ7 it was on the fender. GM has it mounted on the starter, and most 350's it's going to be underneath, driver's side. 2 bolts up in and maybe a bolt to hold the rear of it and the starter drops. GM trucks had a problem with the soleniods getting stupid when the vehicle was warm.
Kevin Mullins:
Just to clarify....
The fender mounted style units on Fords and such are actually relays.
A relay just connects or dis-connects main battery power from the starter motor.
There is still a solenoid mounted on the starter to engage the bendix drive and pinion gear to the flywheel in order to turn the motor. (mounted to the starter itself)
A solenoid is simply an electromagnetic plunger to push or pull a mechanical device.
Other vehicles incorporate both the relay and the solenoid into the same unit. Those will always be mounted directly to the starter. When the solenoid is engaged, contacts on the rear of the solenoid make contact and act as the relay portion all at the same time.
And then there's the more complicated relay to activate a solenoid which activates a relay type cars. But lets not go there........
Besides all that, I still don't think any of this has anything to do with the problem in question for the simple fact that nothing that would normally come on with the ignition switch worked. (i.e radio, instruments, turn signals, blower motors, etc, etc)
DrewKaree:
You're leaning towards bad muffler bearings too, aren't you? ;D
danny_galaga:
--- Quote from: Kevin Mullins on January 14, 2008, 11:11:06 pm ---Just to clarify....
The fender mounted style units on Fords and such are actually relays.
A relay just connects or dis-connects main battery power from the starter motor.
There is still a solenoid mounted on the starter to engage the bendix drive and pinion gear to the flywheel in order to turn the motor. (mounted to the starter itself)
A solenoid is simply an electromagnetic plunger to push or pull a mechanical device.
Other vehicles incorporate both the relay and the solenoid into the same unit. Those will always be mounted directly to the starter. When the solenoid is engaged, contacts on the rear of the solenoid make contact and act as the relay portion all at the same time.
--- End quote ---
you are correct, but the ford style are often referred to as 'solenoids' simply because they are nearly as big as one, and it helps differentiate them from 'normal' relays. this has no bearing on paiges car, but the fords with the seperate relay/solenoid use a 'clapper' starter, which doesnt have a solenoid as such. it cleverly uses one of the pole shoes of the starter to engage the pinion. basically part of the starter is also the solenoid! its all very clever but the drawback is that if the battery isnt well charged, there isnt enough energy to engage the pinion...
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