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| Got the SF2 Cab home - starting the build... |
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| shardian:
A 25" tv will probably stick out the back more than a bit. Keep that in mind. Those cabinets are really neat. Mine is TINY compared to the Xevious it always sits beside. It can look really good if you clean it up real good. Take a look at Knievels Taito MAME for inspiration: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=65678.msg661644#msg661644 |
| rhuel:
--- Quote from: shardian on December 12, 2007, 10:50:39 am ---A 25" tv will probably stick out the back more than a bit. Keep that in mind. Those cabinets are really neat. Mine is TINY compared to the Xevious it always sits beside. It can look really good if you clean it up real good. Take a look at Knievels Taito MAME for inspiration: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=65678.msg661644#msg661644 --- End quote --- That cab is extremely nice looking!! The 25" TV tube I think will be a close fit on the back side due to the angle of the display in this cab. I need to get a definitive guide to discharging the tube before unbolting it from its housing and mocking it up in the cab. The cab size is ~23x23 and my tube measures ~21x17 on the backside with the plastic off. The circuit board on the end of the tube (sorry, I don't know terminology yet) is about 20" deep. It's gonna be very close to hitting the door on the back. That issue can be worked with a small protruding "bumpout" on the back door if needed. I could use some advice on the harness. Ultimarc offers a complete JAMMA harness, but is out of stock. Do these harnesses have wires cut by default or should all wires go somewhere from each connector? Next, since I'm only using the CP from this cab, would it be best to get a JPAC and a new harness (if they become available) or an IPAC and wire it manually in case this harness is shot. I may have to trace CP wiring through the harness and see if continuity exists all the way to the JAMMA connector. I think I figured out what my cabinet started life as...I pulled the Cp up and saw a Taito 1987 marking. After digging around, I noticed the markings on the sides of the coin door are a perfect match for Arkanoid. |
| shardian:
Yours is green, so it was probably a Jungle Hunt. Anyways, if you are careful you don't have to discharge the monitor. You just have to be careful where you touch it. Since you are using a TV, you have no need for a Jpac. Get an Ipac and run new wiring to the controls. Another thing you can do to buy space for the monitor is follow Kneivels route and make a plywood monitor mount and drop the monitor into it. Taito was so nice to supply you with 2x4's on which you can just slide your monitor shelf right on to. ;)This will have the monitor sitting a bit closer to the glass and may buy you the inch or so you need. It will be interesting to see a 25" monitor in a Taito cabinet. |
| rhuel:
Where can the tv tube be touched and not touched...I really don't want to find out by trial and error. I had intended on making a frame fro the TV to fit into then attach the frame to the existing rails. I just need to have the tube out of it's plastic to fit something up. I'm kinda concerned about getting dead. The TV hasn't been plugged in for about 4 or 5 weeks, but I've read they can hold a "lethal" charge for months. Also, ever hear of anyone using an S-Video converter? What other methods are available to get signal from a PC into a coax only TV? |
| ahofle:
You should try hooking that TV up to a PC with an RF converter before you do anything else. You may not even find the picture to be acceptable -- RF is pretty much the worst possible video connection you could have. The arcade monitor may look better even with the screen burn. EDIT: nevermind I see now that the chassis was removed. |
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