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| rhuel:
Maybe I wasn't clear on the neckboard. I didn't mean to move the neckboard to another location, it seems it HAS to be mounted directly to the rear of the tube. My idea was to lengthen the anode wire and the other wires that attach from the input board (not sure of it's proper name, but it's where power comes in and rgb/vga connector hooks up) to the neckboard. Seems as if there shouldn't be a big concern if a wire is 8" long or 18" long if it is properly insulated, even if there are thousands of volts running through it. I'll post over in the monitor section and see what experts say about it. I surely am no expert. That's why I'm asking. Thanks again. |
| rhuel:
I just looked over a few options with the neck board attached. I moved the board to the inside wall of the cabinet and if mounted 2 or 3 inches away from the wall, the high voltage wires do not look like they would need tampered with. There were a couple ground wires that would need lengthened, but none of the major wires that attach to the neck board or anode cap. Also some lighter gauge wires that attach to that board would need lengthened. Only 2 or 4 I think. I may see if I can come up with a scrap 2x4 and see if 2" is enough or if I can flip it and use the 4" side of the 2x4. That may be the solution. Another option would be to lay a board between the two side walls underneath the tube to support the board. Either way, I think I have enough options to not need to mess with the high voltage wires. |
| Jdurg:
Just keep in mind that if you decide to solder together two wires in order to lengthen it you are inherently weakening the wire and you may find some problems later on down the line. If you absolutely must extend those wires, I would HIGHLY suggest that you remove the entire wire and completely replace it with a longer one instead of splicing together two wires. With that much voltage going through the wire, you don't want to introduce any weak spots. I'm no electrical expert, but this is just my personal opinion. Besides, you're going to have to solder anyway so you might as well replace the entire wire and not splice two of them together. |
| rhuel:
Some progress on getting the monitor mounted. It's in, it isn't a perfect fit with the contour of the plastic bezel, but I think it will do fine. It looks like the neck board will just barely clear the back door. I'll figure out where to mount the power board another day. Here are some pics... |
| rhuel:
Got the monitor hooked back up and plugged in for testing it after I had it all apart. I plugged everything back in, made a bracket to mount the power circuit board to (thanks guys for advising me to NOT cut wires and relocate it) and hooked the PC up to test. My 10 year old daughter was the 2nd to try it out in the cabinet. She was pretty excited when she got past level one on Crazy Kong. |
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