Another Sanyo EZ20 - I hate monitors!!!

[shilmover]

Hi all,

Just linking this to another thread (hope that is allowed) to get more visibility...

Having issues getting the picture on my newly re-capped EZ20 monitor fixed:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=72864.msg768943#msg768943

[grantspain]

what was the monitor problem before the cap kit?

[shilmover]

what was the monitor problem before the cap kit?

No, just a video inversion (which i guess is normal)

[shilmover]

To add.

I had a couple of cap kits...  1 had about 10 caps, the other had about 20 caps, 3 resistors, 2 pots and a Transistor (big silver one).

I installed the smaller kit.

[grantspain]

so after you put some caps in you got this width problem,if so you need to note every single cap you changed and cross reference to the schematic to check the correct values-in brief whatever you did caused this problem,yes?

[shilmover]

Okay.  I will do that...

Should I change the resistors and Transistor too?

[grantspain]

my personal feeling is to get this chassis back to original by double checking those caps and their polarity and look for any solder blobs or dry solder joints or any broken wires/traces first otherwise you will have too much to deal with at one time

[Kevin Mullins]

what was the monitor problem before the cap kit?

No, just a video inversion (which i guess is normal)

Don't confuse the term "inversion" when working with a Sanyo20EZ..........

The inversion board and the mod that was done at the factory only deals with COLOR inversion.
It has nothing to do with anything being upside down or backwards.

[shilmover]

my personal feeling is to get this chassis back to original by double checking those caps and their polarity and look for any solder blobs or dry solder joints or any broken wires/traces first otherwise you will have too much to deal with at one time

Thanks...  I will try that first.

[shilmover]

what was the monitor problem before the cap kit?

No, just a video inversion (which i guess is normal)

Don't confuse the term "inversion" when working with a Sanyo20EZ..........

The inversion board and the mod that was done at the factory only deals with COLOR inversion.
It has nothing to do with anything being upside down or backwards.

Okay.  I guess I need to understand how they came from the factory since I have never seen the inside of an "original" DK?  I have the main monitor PCB, a small board that has the cables going for sound to the main game pcb and the speaker, a small board that has the 5 pots on it and a small transformer.  There are four connections from the monitor to the rest of the game; power, sound in, speaker out and video out.

[Kevin Mullins]

After reading through the other thread.... you are ultimately wanting to run the 48in1 JAMMA board right? (NOT an original Nintendo board)

[shilmover]

After reading through the other thread.... you are ultimately wanting to run the 48in1 JAMMA board right? (NOT an original Nintendo board)

Yes and no.   

Ultimately, I would like to be able to swap.  I will have the 48-in-1 there most of the time, but would like to be able to switch some cables around to go from 48-in-1 to original to 48-in-1. For example, both a switching and original Power Supply are in the cab.  Just one cable switches them.

Not sure if that makes sense...

[WunderCade]

That's going to be tricky since the monitor has an on-board inverter. For the jamma, you'll have to run a separate inverter board. For the original Nintendo PCB, you'll have to go directly into the monitor.

Not quite sure how tricky feeding dual sources into the monitor via different routes might be.

[shilmover]

That's going to be tricky since the monitor has an on-board inverter. For the jamma, you'll have to run a separate inverter board. For the original Nintendo PCB, you'll have to go directly into the monitor.

Not quite sure how tricky feeding dual sources into the monitor via different routes might be.

Okay.  I fully expect to disconnect all connections when switching from one to another...

Do you have a picture of how its connected to the monitor?

[shilmover]

Pulled the PCB tonight and checked all the capacitors.  On one of them, one of the solder joints was bad and it was obvious that the cap suffered from it.  Its flat top was no longer flat...     I will post a picture of it soon. 

After replacing, but video was still garbled, but I realized that it was my DKJr board as the 48-in-1 is working (although upsidedown).  That should be a relatively easy fix, I think...

I do seem to have some color issues on the monitor, like when you put a magnet to a TV.  How do I de-gauss the monitor (remember that it was set in horizontal for a while and now its vertical again.

grantspain, Kevin, WunderCade thank you!.  grantspain now that I have fixed the Amplifone and the Sanyo, I have no excuse not to fix the Hantarex...     Although it looks like I will be picking up a Millipede soon   

[shilmover]

Now that the monitor is fixed, I need to tune the colors...

Is there a tutorial somewhere?  The picture is way too blue and red, do I just change the pots on the neckboard?

[grantspain]

locate the cut off pots and the gain pots(should be on the neck),turn the cut off's down so you can just see each colour then use the gains to give richness to each colour.you may have to fiddle with contrast and brightness here and there.
just make sure you have a well placed mirror to assist you
it really is a case of messing until you find your optimum result

[shilmover]

locate the cut off pots and the gain pots(should be on the neck),turn the cut off's down so you can just see each colour then use the gains to give richness to each colour.you may have to fiddle with contrast and brightness here and there.
just make sure you have a well placed mirror to assist you
it really is a case of messing until you find your optimum result

Cool...  I will try that...  Just need to get a test pattern on the screen.

BTW, there are five pots on the neck board.  R-Drive, B-Drive, G-Bias, R-Bias, B-Bias.  Are the x-Drive pots the cut off or gain?

Sorry for the newbie questions... just want to make sure I learn this for the next monitor.

[grantspain]

bias=cut off
drive=gain
may take some time to get perfect,just be patient

[shilmover]

Will do.

Thanks again.

[shilmover]

One more question... 

Did not get a chance to do the tuning tonight, but i can see that the screen needs to be degaussed.  Is there a way to do that without an external degausser?  I believe it has the coil around the monitor.

[grantspain]

your auto degauss should do that unless you have a manual degauss switch or the ptc component in the degauss circuit is knackered
always handy to get a degauss wand,have a butchers on ebay

[shilmover]

your auto degauss should do that unless you have a manual degauss switch or the ptc component in the degauss circuit is knackered
always handy to get a degauss wand,have a butchers on ebay

Butchers?

[grantspain]

your auto degauss should do that unless you have a manual degauss switch or the ptc component in the degauss circuit is knackered
always handy to get a degauss wand,have a butchers on ebay

Butchers?

yeah,sorry i am on london cockney speaking mode at the mo.
butchers=butchers hook=look
i use that expression a lot i'm afraid(its a london,english thing)

[shilmover]

LOL...  glad it was not me...   

[qrz]

a manual  external deguassing coil usually generates a stronger (gauss ) field than the internal coil and its current
 (which affects field strength) is not regulated by a thermistor....

the stronger field will remove magnetic impurity issues more reliably than the internal coil.


qrz

[shilmover]

Thanks.  I will pick up a degausser.  Looks like around $15 on ebay.

[FrizzleFried]

One of my Nintendo cabs works perfectly facing South and West...if I turn it facing East or North the colors mess up and the internal degauss doesn't fix it.  If I manually degauss I get it about 90% there,  but there is still a color issue in the top left and bottom right corners (albeit slight).  Funny thing is that once I turn the cab back to South or West it still clears back up...only to turn it back North or East and the color is back to being jacked requiring a manual degauss.

This only happens on ONE of my cabs...the other,  right next to it,  has no issues?!

Also...I am guessing you figured it out, but just in case,  there is a DIP on the 48-in-1 to turn the image 180 degrees....

[shilmover]

One of my Nintendo cabs works perfectly facing South and West...if I turn it facing East or North the colors mess up and the internal degauss doesn't fix it.  If I manually degauss I get it about 90% there,  but there is still a color issue in the top left and bottom right corners (albeit slight).  Funny thing is that once I turn the cab back to South or West it still clears back up...only to turn it back North or East and the color is back to being jacked requiring a manual degauss.

This only happens on ONE of my cabs...the other,  right next to it,  has no issues?!

Also...I am guessing you figured it out, but just in case,  there is a DIP on the 48-in-1 to turn the image 180 degrees....

Thanks.  I will try moving it...

I did figure out the DIP on the 48-in-1 and felt like a DIP! 

[hsstie]

Thanks.  I will pick up a degausser.  Looks like around $15 on ebay.

I looked at the ones available there and was wondering, which are better ? The straight stick ones or coil type?
Anyone know if the cheap ones there are just as good as the 40 dollar ones? I wanted to pick one up also but did'nt know which one to pick to make the right choice.

[lanman31337]

I have the coil type, I like it very much so.

[qrz]

the round "magic donut" is a toroid which produces a uniform electromagnetic field.

never seen a "straight stick" degausser for tv work   

note to FrizzleFried,  when color TV first arrived in the early '60's (usa). it was common to need a service call
to adjust the purity and even convergence whenever the position of the tv was changed.  (turn a small operating color tv on its side to see a modern equivilent of the problem)
eventually , mfgrs developed better shielding and construction techniques that greatly reduced the problem. only to resurface again in the 32"+ crt sizes .  of course, they now have user adjustments to compensate .....

qrz

[shilmover]

All,

I picked up another Sanyo monitor (it came cheap with other stuff).

When I first plugged it in, I got a bright red/blue line in the middle of the screen and I could see things changing (by the red/blue line changing).

Anyway, I took it apart to re-cap the board and I noticed a big crack in the main board.  I patched across the break (is there a special wire I should use?) and the monitor came back, but the pic was not great so I re-capped the board.

Now I get jail bars (I think they were there before I re-capped.  Ideas?

[polaris]

your auto degauss should do that unless you have a manual degauss switch or the ptc component in the degauss circuit is knackered
always handy to get a degauss wand,have a butchers on ebay

Butchers?

yeah,sorry i am on london cockney speaking mode at the mo.
butchers=butchers hook=look
i use that expression a lot i'm afraid(its a london,english thing)

actually its a cockney thing isnit fella.

[shilmover]

I hate monitors!!!!!!!!!!!   

I just cannot get the colors right on the Sanyo monitors...  colors are washed out...  I am sure its convergence, but how do I fix it?!?

 

I plugged the 48-in-1 into my LCD and it look amazing... into the Sanyo...  pure crap!!

[Level42]

I hate to admit it but I'm tending to the same feeling Shil....

I've tried my luck on the WG4500 in my Galaxian. Total waste of time and money.
Now that G07 in my Centipede is giving me headaches...

In fact, the only monitor I've successfully got back running is the Amplifone in my SW !!!
(Does that prove that vector monitors are simpler beasts than raster monitors ? )

[Kevin Mullins]

Did you get the inverter board functioning?

[shilmover]

Did you get the inverter board functioning?

Not yet.  trying to get the monitor picture to where I am happy with it.  One of the Sanyos inverts the picture, the other does not.

[grantspain]

monitors are not the easiest things to repair,the key is not to give up.
washed out colours can be down to poor adjustments,bad caps or dying guns in the tube.
convergence would give you colours out of line.
and you must remember some of the monitors mentioned here are older than yourselves

[shilmover]

monitors are not the easiest things to repair,the key is not to give up.
washed out colours can be down to poor adjustments,bad caps or dying guns in the tube.
convergence would give you colours out of line.
and you must remember some of the monitors mentioned here are older than yourselves

Thanks for the compliment, but I am not that young...   

adjustments and convergence scares the crap out of me, but I know that this is where the problem is...

B