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Rotating monitor construction *Project finished*

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csa3d:

--- Quote from: XyloSesame on November 05, 2007, 09:52:06 am ---
--- Quote from: koz319 on November 04, 2007, 04:05:31 pm ---
--- Quote from: XyloSesame on November 04, 2007, 11:08:08 am ---When are one of you going to start building these for the rest of us transistor-impaired folks?

--- End quote ---

A few months back I put out a feeler to see if anyone was interested in having a few of these made, and there wasnt really any interest. 
See this post:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=63216.msg632075#msg632075

If there is any interest now, this could still be done.  A few bucks could be shaved off by not including terminal strips, db25 sockets or parallel cables, just let me know.

--- End quote ---

I am very interested; however everything I'm reading warns to not attempt anything without an understanding... and I'm still trying to absorb and understand the workings and application of these devices and motors and their relationships to monitors and arcade cabs. It's a bit overwhelming to a complete novice...

--- End quote ---

Not to mention, there are portions of this stuff which require you to alter the design based on the specifics of your motor.  These are the parts which are most confusing to me, and make me wish there was an "all in one" solution for this.  Building and soldering, sure.. i'd give that a go.  But know what I'm doing, not so sure. 

With all that, you guys are still providing way more useful info than any I've seen on the board about this topic, please continue with notes even if us slowpokes aren't keeping up ;)

-csa

DaOld Man:
Well, my original relay circuit would pretty much cover all motors.
If you used 15 amp relays, the motor could draw up to 15 amps.
My advice to the novice:
Get your motor first.
Go to the junkyard, check ebay, whatever it takes. A window motor would probably work, as would a windshield wiper motor, and I am pretty sure a headlight motor off a 88 firebird will work. (Least I hope so).
A motor with a gearbox on it will turn slower, but have more strength. (Might be two pluses.)
After you get your motor, you will need a power supply.
Or you can hook the motor to your car battery.
Use a multimeter that can measure at least 10 amps.
Put it in line with the motor and see how many amps it draws.
Remember that this is no load on the motor, it will draw more when loaded down.
The H drive I built should be good for 4 or five amps.
If your motor draws more than that you will need a different drive. (Or a different motor.)
Also while you are testing the motor, reverse the leads, see if it reverses.
If you use a windshield wiper motor, it may have to be specially handled.
So,
(1) get your motor
(2) get a power supply capable of putting out the amps the motor will draw.
(3) choose your drive.
If anyone wants to try building my relay drive, tell me what relays you are looking at (part # etc) and I will see if I can put together a point to point wiring diagram

DaOld Man:
Update:
I found another motor in my junk box. I thought this one was a windshield wiper motor, but Im not sure. It has a knob on the motor shaft, so it may have been one I tried to rig for the firebird.
I bought a few motors trying to make one work.
Anyway, my old AT power supply was only putting out 10 Volts, so I dug out another one that puts out the 12 I need.
My "new" motor works good. Its a bit smaller than the first, and it draws about 1.14 amps in one direction, and a little under one amp in the other direction.
The batteries on my camera are dead, so I will try to post a pic later.

DaOld Man:
Yet another update:
I have a temp probe on my multi-meter.
I measured the temp on the big transistors.
After the motor runs for about 10 mins, temp on Q2 gets to 122 F.
It's mate, Q3, is just a couple degrees cooler.
I know the motor should never run that long at a time in the cabinet, but just in case, I'm wondering if I should install heat sinks?
On my H drive, I have Q1 and Q3 side by side and Q2 and Q4 side by side.
I did this on purpose, because the tab on the transistor is electrically connected to its collector.
If you look on the schematic, the collectors of Q1 and Q3 wire together, as do Q2 and Q4,
so I figured I could bolt a heat sink across the pairs, maybe making it a little easier to install.
If I had placed the transistors any differently, I would have had to use separate heat sinks on each one.
Since I wanted to keep the board as small as possible, I did it this way.
Any comments/suggestions on the heat sinks?

HaRuMaN:
HS would be overkill.

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