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720 revisited
kspiff:
I don't know if I can speak for the rest of this board, but I would buy a repro for sure.. I know where I can get a real 'stick' right now (no eBaying necessary, even), but they're too expensive for something which is A.) used; B.) heavy (as one would expect includes the control panel); and C.) just karmically wrong to use in a MAME machine (wasted control panel and joystick meant for a vanishing classic).
Plus there is the bonus that -- if designed similarly enough -- you may find yourself selling a lot of these for 720 refurbs.. are people doing this with your DOT spinners? Or is the design too different?
u_rebelscum:
--- Quote from: SirPoonga on May 06, 2003, 02:26:20 pm ---My first idea is to have two optical inputs (two mice axis). This would be closest to a real controller I could get. I;ve explained that idea a couple of times here.
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If you feel like it, could you try this idea using analog+, and report back?
Cover all but one or two gaps on the second axis. Calibrate the first axis as close as possible (before the second axis is used as calibration wheel). Assign the second axis to Dial V 4 and set this to 100% sensitivity. (You need -switchaxes enabled in analog+ to re-assign the second mouse axis, and this is not limited to USB nor to winME/98.)
Covering the gaps and leaving two would be best if the gap spacing caused the cursor to wiggle back and forth instead of moving up and down, but will work even if it walks insteads of wiggles.
--- Quote from: jerryjanis on May 07, 2003, 12:06:42 am ---
--- Quote from: u_rebelscum on May 06, 2003, 03:46:32 am --- I guess you could use a normal spinner, adjust analog sensitivity as close as possible, and set a button to the (8way) joystick - up. Haven't tried that though.
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That doesn't work... If you look at the source code you'll notice that as soon as you so much as touch the mouse, the 8way mode ceases to function.
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D'oh. I forgot.
--- Quote ---What you could do is to map one of the "Dial V 4" controls to the calibration brush's button (you would also have to alter the analog settings for Dial V 4: something like "Key/Joy Speed=1", "Sensitivity=255" or whatever works for you). That's a cool way to do it because then it would work more like the real arcade joystick did.
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Good suggestion.
SirPoonga:
--- Quote from: u_rebelscum on May 07, 2003, 03:56:23 am ---If you feel like it, could you try this idea using analog+, and report back?
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Yeah, I would, But I need the parts to do this. I need a mouse hack with both IR pairs (as the oscar spinner only somes with one) and a way to mount the second set of IRs at due north. Remember, I plan on using one disc, just making two grooves deeper and setting the second IRs to just register those.
u_rebelscum:
--- Quote from: SirPoonga on May 07, 2003, 10:55:26 am ---... Remember, I plan on using one disc, just making two grooves deeper and setting the second IRs to just register those.
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Ah, right. Now I remember. :-[
Have you tried an analog joystick with analog+? One possibility is take the spring(s) out of an analog stick to keep it at a slant. Won't have the "feel", though.
--- Quote from: OSCAR on May 07, 2003, 01:01:41 am ---...I'm not trying to give the impression that I will be manufacturing these controllers in the near future, but once I have the drawings complete it's only a matter of $$, interest, and time. :)
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I'm interested. If/when a replica is made, I'm very much there. Unless I get a working real controller first. ;)
Quick question, how does the original encoder wheel compare to the DOT encoder wheel?
shmokes:
I thought they were practically identical. They both have 72 teeth don't they? I've never actually seen a 720 wheel, though, so I have no idea if it's as big as Oscar's monster encoder wheel.