Building 2x bartop cabinets (Second cabinet complete!!!)

[leapinlew]

If I go with a 19" screen, remember that I don't HAVE to rotate to vertical to play a vertical game... no more than they HAVE to remove the 8-way/6-button joystick and install the 4-way/3-button panel.  I'd reserve changing it around for when you want to have a 'serious' game of pacman/frogger/1942 etc, and leave the 'kids' with whatever setup its on at the time.

I know your trying to make an analogy, but I think that a 4-way is much different situation than an 8-way.

How would you accomplish this software wise? Meaning - how would the computer know if the LCD was oriented vertically or horizontally? Heres the situation: your playing a game of Joust and the monitor is horizontal, now you want to play a game of Joust 2 which is vertical. Lets say you didn't want to rotate the monitor, and played a vertical game on a horizontal monitor. Now, lets imagine you wanted to get "serious" with Joust 2 and play in the proper orientation. You flip the monitor (either manually or electronically) - how would you then tell the system to change it's resolution?

Personally, I like 17" or smaller displays for bartops. I even made the LCD portion of my bartop smaller because I liked how it looked. It's all relative to the machine I guess. I've used 15's, 17's and 9" screens and they all look fine because the machines are proportioned properly.

[dmworking247]

I'm pretty sure this can be sorted in the software. I can't recall if MAME has an 'in-flight' orientation switch (I think it doesn't), but MAME has the option to rotate accordingly with the game, and I'm sure I could hack something to use different Mame.ini files based on a flag in the front end (ie, if mala is in horizontal mode then dont rotate, if it is in vertical mode then do rotate MAME).

I intended on rotating the front end based on on a 'sliding motion sensing' switch (I forget the proper term but basically its a little bearing that rolls inside a tube and thus would push the button if it was rotated vertically).

I'm leaning towards the 17" now based on peoples comments and for affordability reasons.

[leapinlew]

Good luck. I'm pretty interested in this build and your wood working has been most impressive so far.

[inaka]

Any updated news on this project?

This is exactly the type of bartop cab I wanted to build. I'm using a 19" LCD (since I have it lying around anyway) powered by a cheap laptop. I'm using Pivot Pro to rotate the menus of MAME32 for for for either vertical or Horizontal orientation, but I too can't decide if I want to have a rotating LCD (round bezel, etc.) or one that can be manually repositioned with a little effort.

Your woodworking skills are top notch, and I'm looking forward to reading more on this.

[dmworking247]

I'm glad people out there are still interested in this project... helps to keep motivated. This project has been moving slow for the last month or so (due primarily to Christmas and the "Asteroid" mini project, but never fear... I've been making small steps.

In actual fact, I've worked several days on these cabinets... its unbelievable how much time I've spent filling every tiny dent/scratch/join and sanding it down to 240 grit paper just to paint the undercoat.

The undercoat is a 3-in-1 (sealer primer undercoat) mixed with PVA, then diluted to be sprayed on with a paint gun. This is my first time using paint guns so I've been taking it very slowly. Add to that the 5 control panels I'm building for just the initial build and I've had a LOT of fine-tuning.

I've actually come up with a color scheme for the 'smaller' bartop that I reckon is going to look awesome, but its going to have to remain a secret for now   The larger bartop is still going to be a more traditional gloss black with green T-molding, but I'm still intending on getting some adhesive vinyl printed for the side art.

Here's some progress shots of all the control panels and the two cabinets ready for their colour coats (next week)

How the control panels are put together:


The routed hole on the underside of the 'trackball' panels (I will be using a stripped down Macally I-ball (A USB trackball for the Mac), which will work well for trackball games on these bartops, but isn't suited for 'high momentum' trackball games like Golden Tee (thats for my upright cabinet )


Using the electric plane to shave off the overhang of the top panel so there's no overhang and it sits flush when mounted in the cabinet (I then rounded the edge)


The cabinets and the control panels.

[dmworking247]

Any updated news on this project?

This is exactly the type of bartop cab I wanted to build. I'm using a 19" LCD (since I have it lying around anyway) powered by a cheap laptop. I'm using Pivot Pro to rotate the menus of MAME32 for for for either vertical or Horizontal orientation, but I too can't decide if I want to have a rotating LCD (round bezel, etc.) or one that can be manually repositioned with a little effort.

Your woodworking skills are top notch, and I'm looking forward to reading more on this.

I'm still trying to source a 17" or 19" LCD for a good price, which is why the larger bartop (in the post above) still doesn't have a bezel (I cant even cut it out till I know the dimensions of the screen).

I've definately opted out of building the motorised rotating LCD, which is probably obvious since I used the parts for the 'asteroid' project... It wasn't going to be that difficult I just thought I was wasting too much space/using such a small screen only for that 'bling' factor of pushing a button to rotate it.

I think the methodology I'm using is pretty new (mounting the glass BEHIND the bezel wood panel and only the size of the LCD), which is why not many (any?) people do a manually rotating bezel/display. I intend to mount the LCD in the same way you can see in the 'smaller' bartop in this thread... but put thumb holes above and below the screen, which magnetic catches holding the bezel in place. This will allow you to simply pull it out, rotate it, and put it back in (as the bezel is completely square, not rectangular).

I'm also going to put a motion-sensing switch on the back so that it automatically rotates the front-end/mame (only caveat is that you'll need to rotate it on the front end, not IN-GAME as MAME (AFAIK) doesn't have an in-flight rotate option.

[dmworking247]

I think I've had a win today with a little 12V fluro light I found in supercheap auto for $23.

Not the cheapest, but perfect I think for the application.

Its a 12v 8w fluro light, and its 288mm (29cm) long which is perfect for these bartops which are 38cm and 42cm wide internally. It also has its own on/off switch.

Question though, as my 'old' brain isn't very good with electronics anymore: Is this 12V, 8w light ok to hook up directly to a molex connector?

I will be using a slimline PC's power supply (so fairly 'low' wattage) and want to power the PC (with hdd), this light, an EL cable, and a 12v case fan (too cool down the cab).

Does that all sound ok? What about amperage etc?

I'm happy to install a 12V transformer if I *have* to but I'm trying to keep weight/cables to a minimum.


Regarding the rest of the project, its currently at the spray-painting stage, and our drought-ridden country is having 9 days of rain at the moment so I shouldn't complain. 

Edit: Recently something bizzare is happening with my posts. Any time I link to an image on my domain (www.got2getalife.com) it is not showing up in firefox on this forum or www.AussieArcade.com.au , whereas other peoples images show ok, and they work if I copy/paste the image URL directly into the firefox address bar. Everything works perfectly in explorer.   Someone else also said in this thread that it happened to them (temporarily)... anybody have any ideas wtf is going on?

[Anubis_au]

Hey dm,

Was just reviewing this thread, and noticed the Dairy Farmer's bottle for reference way back in the first post.

Where in Oz are you located?

[dmworking247]

That's very perceptive of you...

I'm in the Illawarra (Wollongong) region of NSW.

Regarding the project, its been several weeks of heavy rain, which resulted in some (fixable) water damage to the projects, but also some major damage to the roof/house, a flooding of my workshop, and ruined the bedroom carpet which when taken up triggered an asthma attack in my 2 year old daughter.

That, and several other distractions (such as the implications of my username) have kept me busy.

Fear not, perhaps this weekend the sun will shine and these bartops will get back on track... although I'm deliberately hiding the theme of the first bartop due to be completed for 'surprise factor'. The other bartop is still waiting a 17" LCD which I haven't been able to afford yet.

Stay tuned!

[dmworking247]

Watch this space guys,  there's one heck of an update due any day now.

(tease)

[dmworking247]

I've realized that this thread is going to get confusing now that one of the two bartops is complete and another is still to come, so I'm going to branch out each 'finished product' into its own thread for its own feedback & questions and additional information.

New Thread for completed Bartop #1 - The Taxi Cab

[ark_ader]

...I've yet to attempt hacking the power button which is integrated into the keyboard).

Trying to hack the power button on my Partybox project, the solution ended up going in from the backside.  I demolished the switch from the front, but could not get at the leads until I took a dremel tool and hacked away the plastic beneath the switch.  With a power supply connected, I started shorting the leads together until it came to life.

Good luck with your project.

Good image coder. On the thinkpads, it uses a slider type switch to make the connection. It has a switch on the side, at least I think it does).

So - I would decase it and find the points where it touches to make it's connection and solder some leads onto there. It could be some sensitive soldering. On mine - it was pretty easy with big contact points.

On my sub mini bartops I use Thinkpads and Leap is right the switch is on the side - I just drill out a pencil and insert it into the switch mechanism so it gives you a push button effect in the top or back of your cab.  Its dumb but it works. 

[dmworking247]

I don't know what model thinkpad you're using but I've been working with Thinkpads for years and the entire T and R series have always had a soft button that is part of the keyboard.

The last IBM laptop (Thinkpad) I remember with a side sliding switch was the 380 series 8 years ago?

[dmworking247]

With the "ALIEN BARTOP" (black with green t-molding) I'm considering using 4 NovaGem lights for the start & credit buttons.

Should I go with clear with green LED, or 'green' (presumably with white LED)

Has anybody seen the difference? Which would better match 'alien green' T-molding, on and off?

[dmworking247]

Holy crap, I'm glad you guys are patient.

I started this thread nearly a year ago. One of the bartops (per post #50) was finished in March, but the other one has lingered on....

... until now.

I'm waiting on the delivery of 6 new buttons (I wasn't happy with the ones I had). With any luck they'll be here Monday or Tuesday. Then, bartop #2 will be revealed!

*drumroll*

[punxrus]

I can't wait! Your thread really inspired me to get my project started! Early congrats on #2!

[dmworking247]

At last, The Alien Bartop is Revealed!

[dmworking247]

If I go with a 19" screen, remember that I don't HAVE to rotate to vertical to play a vertical game... no more than they HAVE to remove the 8-way/6-button joystick and install the 4-way/3-button panel.  I'd reserve changing it around for when you want to have a 'serious' game of pacman/frogger/1942 etc, and leave the 'kids' with whatever setup its on at the time.

How would you accomplish this software wise? Meaning - how would the computer know if the LCD was oriented vertically or horizontally? Heres the situation: your playing a game of Joust and the monitor is horizontal, now you want to play a game of Joust 2 which is vertical. Lets say you didn't want to rotate the monitor, and played a vertical game on a horizontal monitor. Now, lets imagine you wanted to get "serious" with Joust 2 and play in the proper orientation. You flip the monitor (either manually or electronically) - how would you then tell the system to change it's resolution?

Personally, I like 17" or smaller displays for bartops. I even made the LCD portion of my bartop smaller because I liked how it looked. It's all relative to the machine I guess. I've used 15's, 17's and 9" screens and they all look fine because the machines are proportioned properly.

leapinlew,

Hopefully the finished product ca now answer your question.



Towards the end of this video you can see a horizontal AND a vertical game being played with the monitor mounted horizontally, then vertically (ie there are 4 ways you can play it). MAME starts the game in whatever the orientation was of the monitor at the time, rather than the orientation of the game itself.

To achieve this I use a setting within Mala (the front end). Originally I had a setting in MAME.INI to automatically rotate the game to suit its original orientation, but that would mean you'd have to rotate the LCD to play it (too bad if you're lazy). Thus, the button that acts as P1-Credit in MAME acts as 'switch orientation in Mala', and I've enabled the option within Mala to launch MAME in the orientation matching the Mala layout (it edits the MAME.ini just before launching the game).

This way, I can play a horizontal game OR a vertical game on a vertical OR horizontal rotation of the screen (best of both worlds) which makes it great for me, whilst letting my little kids play without saying "Dad, can you rotate it for me".

I'm glad I didn't use a fixed orentiation, as that would have defeated the purpose of what I set out to achieve with this particular bartop.

By the way, I ended up using a decased 17" BenQ LCD. I could have possibly squeezed in a 19" but I totally agree with the comments that it'd be too big for a bartop.

[leapinlew]

It turned out very nice. Good work!