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Star Wars upright - restoration
shilmover:
I replaced VR1 and VR2 again... But I am confused... Which is the BU406D? According to the guide, its Q2 which is connected to the board via a plastic clip. Is that the one?
Also, I was checking all the cables that connect to the board and the cream/beige one that connects to the Focus/Brightness board (right below the white one) was loose... IE, it came off when I touched it... Could that have caused it? I resoldered it.
The cab is in pieces right now, but I am hoping to paint the inside tomorrow and put it back together in the next couple of days...
I still dont know which one the BU406D is and dont want to pull the wrong one (I removed the one with the plastic clip, Q2, but from your comments below, I think its the wrong one).
Level42:
As I mentioned, there's a fault in the Amplifone FAQ. Q2 and Q3 are mentioned in reverse in that one OR they were reversed on the BLUE version of the HV-PCB....
The BU406D is mounted on a metal cooling plate near the HVT.
Check this picture:
You see the new Cinelabs HVT on the right, right next to it, on the left is the metal that's holding the BU406D (it's on the inside so you don't see the part itself). If you check it you can see that the middle leg is cut-off, this is normal.
Checking the diodes: set your DVM to diode-test or something simular, it should beep when you connect the test-leads to eachother. Now put one lead to one side of the diode, the other to the other side. If you read "open" (OL or something) reverse the leads. Then you should see a value like 0,5. If you have a complete short, the diode is dead. Best thing is to de-solder one leg before measuring to be sure you're measuring the diode itself and not something that is in parallel to it...
Level42:
By the way, the solderings of the cooling plate look a bit dodgy on your PCB....check if they are still OK. This is important as the cooling plate acts as the middle pin of the BU406D.
shilmover:
--- Quote from: Level42 on November 04, 2007, 03:02:06 am ---As I mentioned, there's a fault in the Amplifone FAQ. Q2 and Q3 are mentioned in reverse in that one OR they were reversed on the BLUE version of the HV-PCB....
The BU406D is mounted on a metal cooling plate near the HVT.
You see the new Cinelabs HVT on the right, right next to it, on the left is the metal that's holding the BU406D (it's on the inside so you don't see the part itself). If you check it you can see that the middle leg is cut-off, this is normal.
--- End quote ---
Thanks... that clarifies it... I thought it was the other one.
--- Quote from: Level42 on November 04, 2007, 03:02:06 am ---Checking the diodes: set your DVM to diode-test or something simular, it should beep when you connect the test-leads to eachother. Now put one lead to one side of the diode, the other to the other side. If you read "open" (OL or something) reverse the leads. Then you should see a value like 0,5. If you have a complete short, the diode is dead. Best thing is to de-solder one leg before measuring to be sure you're measuring the diode itself and not something that is in parallel to it...
--- End quote ---
Cool. I will test them today... between coats of paint.
shilmover:
When putting the cab back to gether today, I noticed something...
On the neck of the CRT is that white ring. I noticed that on the "male" connector (the one that is attached to the tube), there is was a plastic cover that has broken off and the glass is showing. Would that have anything to do with it?
I will test the Diodes and resistors then test again... What should happen without the BU406D?
Also, how would I know if the flyback is bad?
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