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Paint feels tacky - What am I missing?
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WunderCade:

--- Quote from: Lakersfan on August 20, 2007, 10:51:34 pm ---Thanks. Well I work a ton of hours this week so I expect to get a lot of dry time in.  ;)

Another question: the paint isn't really appearing how I thought it should. You can see roller paths (if that makes sense) from using the roller, even though we are trying our best to roll smoothly and evenly. It's a high quality foam roller that we're using. I know we're painting everything because after sanding you can see a slight haze that makes it easy to see where you need to paint. Is it just because it's a tad thicker in some places and once it completely dries, it'll go away?

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Funny you should mention the "tracks" as I had that very same problem and that was part of the big hassle that turned me away from enamel paint. I mostly noticed that effect when I loaded the roller with too much paint (sort of like when painting a wall)....but it mostly went away after I began barely loading a light amount of paint onto the roller, rolling once across cardboard to even it out and then painting a lot of very light coats. But it was definitely a slow pain in the --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- paint job. Thinning it a little also helped.

My advice, if you aren't happy with the finish, just sand it back down with an orbital and switch to water-based satin or semi-gloss (Glidden is good) . Dries much faster. Then finish it off with a satin or semi-gloss cleacoat (I use Rustoleum).

Whatever you end up doing....I wish you much success and never give up. You'll get there. Just make sure to share some pics. We're a curious bunch.
f4phantomii:
Another technique you can try to get rid of the roller marks/tracks is called "tipping".

Basically you roll on the paint as usual, and then go back over it very lightly with a good, fine paintbrush.  Having a properly thinned paint is critical here.

What you want is for the paint to be "wet" enough so that after you do the "tipping", the paint runs back together and flashes so that you don't end up with brush strokes.  It's tricky getting the mixture right...but it works.

Same technique for painting with a spray gun......you want it just thin enough so that the sprayed-on dots all run together and then flash so they don't run, drip, or sag.

And yes, turning the cabinet so that the surface you are painting is horizontal will help.  You can put the paint on thicker, and you are less likely to get runs or drips.

Like I said before....I hate brushes and rollers now....I spray everything.  Anything that is rolled or brushed just looks crummy by comparison.
MrMojoZ:

--- Quote from: t8erbug on August 19, 2007, 01:10:48 pm ---WunderCade hit it on the head. If the first coat is not completely dry the second coat will lock in the remaining moisture and increase the final cure time. I started taking my cabinets to a local body shop and get them painted for $50 a piece. He shoots them in what ever color I want. I just have to select from the car colors that are in the shop at that time, or just wait. The acrylic paint dries fast and hard. I have six kids and the cabinets in acrylic hold up better than the ones in enamel.

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What type of prep do you do for auto paint on your cabinets? I am looking at having this done to mine.
t8erbug:
I sand them with 150 grit and then skim coat with thinned out body putty. Resand with 220 grit and let him shoot. One coat of primer and then paint. After two coat of paint, I wet sand it with 1500 grit and then one more coat. My body guy shoot two coats of clear on his multi-game and it's nice.

The real cool thing is you can sometimes get candy, pearls, and even metallic paint if your lucky.
MrMojoZ:
Okay thanks, my cousin works for an autobody shop and knows painters that are always looking for side work. He is also a pro at bondo work and fabricating brackets and what not.  :cheers:
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