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best way to restore coin door (paint)?
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Neilyboy:
My restore.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=69930.0

Neil
Green Giant:

--- Quote from: pinballjim on August 16, 2007, 01:29:12 pm ---With hammer finish, there's no need to sand or prime.  Just spray over the old paint and it'll look fine.



--- End quote ---

That all depends on the condition of his coindoor.  when I got mine some of the paint had chipped off so I smoothed the edges around those parts getting off any paint that was already flaking.  Without sanding it will have raised areas and lower areas where the paint flaked off.

However, if your coin door is in good shape just scratched, then painting it is all you need.  Primer is not very necessary for a coin door if you are using spray paint designed for metal.  The bond will be strong and multiple layers are a cinch.
jcoleman:
The absolute, bar none, 100% best way to restore that coin door is to 1) have it sandblasted (it appears that Darth Nuno did that as well) and 2) have it powder coated.  I paid a guy $12 to sandblast mine and then took it to a commercial powder coater who did it for around $20.  There are a WIDE variety of options when powder coating, so you can get it in just about any finish you can think of.  Obviously it was not as cheap as painting it myself (and not nearly as fast) but it came out perfect.  I know I am not that good at painting, so I went with that option and have absolutely no regrets.

Your mileage may vary.

Coleman
Pac-Fan:
With all paints you should sand. However for hammered to work properly it should NOT be sprayed over freshly primed or painted material.

It's fine to go over the original powder coat, because remember, that isn't so much paint but rather plastic, so the solvents in the hammered won't start eating as much into the powder coat layer as compared to real paint.

Hammered paint does not bubble anywhere near as much and can cause problems being sprayed over a primed/pre-spray painted surface. you end up having to use so much of it to make it 'work' that you then end up with puddles and runs.

So, either prime+normal black satin/semi gloss, or don't prime and use hammered.

As others have said, black hammered has a distinctive grey appearance to it--in fact is is the closest match I've found to the blue-grey-peuter color of old Midway coin doors, like the original ones on Galaxian and their mid-70's EM games.  (Pre 70's they used brown, 80's they used black)

So if you want it hammered but true black, just overcoat it 2 days after you initially hammer it. Use a black satin or semi gloss and it will hide some of the hammering and make it black but leave enough of the texture to come close enough to the original Bally/Midway "splatter" pattern or CoinCo "orange peel" pattern their power coats originally had.
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