Main > Main Forum

Control Panel advice - NOT Layout related!!!

Pages: (1/3) > >>

pboreham:

Hi,

Anyone following my blog will have seen I have built the control panel box and am currently awaiting a BIG order from GGG!

Whilst I wait for it to be delivered, I would like some general advice about the CP please...

1) For the top, shall I router the edge and put t-molding on, or is this personal choice? Or just use the router to make a rounded edge? Whats better?

2) Do I get a CPO + Plexiglass, or just CPO - with Plexi, is there a problem mounting the controls (using Happ Supers, ICE Trackball, TT2 Spinner, ICE Buttons)...

3) Any mounting advice for the box and/or top - or just follow the Project Arcade book?

4) Any other mounting advice for the controls? Have not got a mounting plate for the trackball - Randy said I could use a Happ one, though people install without. Will this effect whether I can have plexi on top of the CP or not?

Thanks for any help - REALLY looking forward to this stage of the project and cannot wait for my order to arrive!!!  :applaud:

Cheers, Paul

Pops:

T-Moulding or just to route a rounded edge?
I like the look of t-moulding but a slot cutter bit is an extra expense, can you borrow one?

Plexi adds to the overall thickness of the panel, it can be tricky to get the button nuts on if you exceed the thread depth. Routing a recess underneath is the answer to this. More work.

Not this far yet myself so looking forward to the replies here.

No TB mounting plate is my biggest regret, fabricating one yourself is a :censored:. I know, I've done it. It worked but wasn't worth the aggravation. No difference to the plexi on top if you rout the plate into the panel.

For all that, building the cp is the best part of a build enjoy it.

Hope this helps.


Green Giant:

1.  t-molding

2.  plexi or not, the controls should be fine.  do the plexi cause if you want to later, it will be a pain in the  :censored:

3.  For the top of the control panel, stick on some hinges on the front and some sort of locking mechanism.  On mine I put an extra coin door lock on the right side that digs into the wood of the box so I can easily access the controls but no one else can.  As for the box itself, make sure it is extremely secure.  Avoid velcro as it isn't permanent enough.  I don't remember what the book said, but all I did was permanently attach two 3/8" bolts sticking up through a 2x4 going under my control panel.  I have two holes lined up on my control panel box.  I drop it on there and tighten them on with some hand nuts.

4.  Mounting plate came in handy, just make sure whatever you do, you countersink it with the control panel.  Hidden nuts and mounting plates  really make a control panel look nice.

pboreham:

Thanks GG... in reply:-

2) The Happ Supers look pretty stumpy with a short throw - dont know how plexi will affect this?

3) In the book it advises to velcro the top part (with the controls) to the actual box - then the box to the cab with a locking mech. Like your idea though, will have a think!

4) I need to investigate mounting plates more - what router bit do you use to make the countersink for the plate or trackball? I've used the router to make the t-molding grove, but not for anything else!

Thanks again, paul

javeryh:

You can route out the footprint of the joystick underneath the CP top - I'd go 3/8" deep in a 3/4" top.  This will give you a 3/8" longer shaft on the joystick if you think it is too short.

Pages: (1/3) > >>

Go to full version