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Gorf Joysticks.
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SavannahLion:
Here it is.

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/GORF_joystick

I cut out about half of the information I have. I decided it wasn't a good idea to give a lot of technical information without actually confirming them myself. I won't be able to put in any technical updates until after I order a control interface board from Ultimarc or GGG.  :dunno
RandyT:

If you can, put some power to the stick, and measure with an ohm-meter the voltage between GROUND and one of the direction outputs with the stick at center position.  Then do it again with the output you are measuring activated.  If you see 5v DC at center positions and close to 0v DC when it's activated, then it works just like a standard P360 and can be used withe a KeyWiz, GP-Wiz, whathaveyou...

I'm not sure what is happening with the trigger switch, but you can test it the same way with your ohm meter.

RandyT
MinerAl:
Wow!

Good job.

Thanks
SavannahLion:

--- Quote from: RandyT on August 12, 2007, 12:43:56 pm ---
If you can, put some power to the stick, and measure with an ohm-meter the voltage between GROUND and one of the direction outputs with the stick at center position.  Then do it again with the output you are measuring activated.  If you see 5v DC at center positions and close to 0v DC when it's activated, then it works just like a standard P360 and can be used withe a KeyWiz, GP-Wiz, whathaveyou...

--- End quote ---

Got my notes. The pins are held almost at 0v when active and at +5v when inactive.  I need to refer to my notes. But I do recall that when a direction is activated, that pin is held to ground. I think I was having issues determining what the voltage was in neutral. I don't think it was +5v, I think it was more like +.5v. I could sink an LED, but I couldn't drive one.

Some people I asked insist on using diodes between the controller and *Wiz. I don't think I would need it since all I really care about is pulling to ground, not whether it's +5v. Except, I think one might need either a diode or small resistor to supress spikes if one wanted to use the joystick in a hotswap setup. Is that correct?


--- Quote ---I'm not sure what is happening with the trigger switch, but you can test it the same way with your ohm meter.

--- End quote ---

The trigger is a momentary NO switch. I think I inadvertantly edited the note out when I removed the technical portions. The joystick trigger and lights connect to J1. J1 pins 3, 4 & 5 is a direct pass-thru to pins 1,2, & 3 on J2. J1 pin 1 is connected to Ground at pin 7 on J2. Makes sense to me.
RandyT:

--- Quote from: SavannahLion on August 13, 2007, 06:59:19 pm ---Got my notes. The pins are held almost at 0v when active and at +5v when inactive.

--- End quote ---

Sounds like a good thing.


--- Quote ---Some people I asked insist on using diodes between the controller and *Wiz. I don't think I would need it since all I really care about is pulling to ground, not whether it's +5v. Except, I think one might need either a diode or small resistor to supress spikes if one wanted to use the joystick in a hotswap setup. Is that correct?

--- End quote ---

If you are planning to hot-swap to the interface, it might be a good idea.  Probably more to protect the circuit on the Gorf stick than anything else.  Some of the older discrete circuitry is kind of sensitive.  I've never popped  a GP-Wiz49 input, but I have killed at least one 49-way board by popping the connector going to the joystick with power connected.


--- Quote ---The trigger is a momentary NO switch. I think I inadvertantly edited the note out when I removed the technical portions. The joystick trigger and lights connect to J1. J1 pins 3, 4 & 5 is a direct pass-thru to pins 1,2, & 3 on J2. J1 pin 1 is connected to Ground at pin 7 on J2. Makes sense to me.

--- End quote ---

Sounds like the ground is common between the light and the trigger switch.  Essentially it just needs to be the same as the way the directionals function and it should be ok.  Just make sure that the Gorf stick gets its power from the same place as the interface to be safe (i.e. not a wall wart)

RandyT
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