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| Leaf buttons tire my hands |
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| ChadTower:
Used to be some guys couldn't lift their rocks... then they couldn't lift their logs... then they couldn't lift their batteries... now they can't press buttons! |
| BrentRadio:
Well, back in the day, I could play Asteriods all day long, now my wrists get tired quick. My new buttons were kind of tight so I cut the springs down a little, that helped alot. Brent |
| Xiaou2:
Leaf buttons have a very long 'travel'. Meaning, that they can be pushed much further down than really needed, to activate the switch. I remember as a kid not liking them because I also pushed them down too far, and thus got tired very quickly. Now, I see that they can be more more responsive than Micros. But, you must learn to control the depth of each press. It just takes some practice to get used to. An option could be to install a restrictive frame under the bottom of the button, so that its max travel was shortened. It need to be fairly strong so that it will not bend under pressure. But also, you should pad it with a rubber surface, as otherwise, if you press to hard you could crack the buttons buttom. An alternative could be to insert a small ring of material into the button. In between the button plunger and the button shell. Then, the button could only be pressed so far... however, if the metal leafs bend too far, then you wont be able to trigger them. |
| Crowquill:
I don't know if I've ever gotten more exhausted playing with leafs than microswitched buttons. The secret is that you DON"T have to push them in all the way. You can tap them and not have to slam them all the way in. If you're inclined to push them in all the way every time, I think Knievel's idea should work well to reduce the travel of the button. You might have to adjusts the leafs a bit if you do it, though. You could try modifying the spring, but the spring in a standard Wico button is very weak. You might check to see what yours looks like. |
| xmenxmen:
Take some motrin and call me tomorrow... |
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