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Joystick Installation
wee beastie:
Yes, the hotrod does have some wood cut out to make the joy the right height as I have one. On my newer control panels, though, I didn't bother doing countersinking the joys in the 3/4 MDF. Yes, the joystics are shorter, but IMO I don't think it makes too much of a differene anyway. I loved arcade games back in the day, but I don't remember them THAT well as to recall how tall the joystick was. So making them perfectly "arcade authentic" was near impossible for me anyway. Even if you don't "countersink" your joystick, you'll still be able to play whatever you want. However, You may want to make your joystick hole slightly larger than your button hole so the joystick isn't restricted by the wood.
wee beastie
rampy:
FWIW, I didn't route out on mine and i'm OK with my "shaft length" ( ha!)
*shrug* it's really a personal preference... If you were going to have lexan on top of the 3/4" wood... I'd think you'd get into definite routing territory...
Go to an arcade and play around and see how high up you like your stick mounted...
rampy
RandyT:
--- Quote from: BobA on April 25, 2003, 11:19:25 am ---A straight bit works fine. I don't think countersink is the right term when you are removing wood but I cannot think of the proper woodworking term.
--- End quote ---
I believe it would be called a "pocket". If there was a higher area within a pocket, it would be an "island".
A "recess" would probably also describe it pretty well.
If anyone cares :).
RandyT
Cue-Ball:
I also did not recess the CP for my joysticks. I'm using 3/4" MDF with 1/8" Lucite on top and the stick height doesn't bother me at all. I was going to route out a recess for the joysticks but my other half said that she prefered the sticks the way they were so i left 'em. Unless you're using restrictor plates, it's pretty much personal preference.
OnigumO:
If I were to make a recess, what type of router bit would you use?