Author Topic: New Addition to my Arcade (a video this time) (Read 5580 times)

USSEnterprise · « **on:** July 16, 2007, 08:51:45 pm »

Super Mario Bros.

Found it next to the dumpster behind my first aid squad's building.Asked the president of the organization if I could take it, and it was no problem. Said they hadn't used it in a few years.

Got it home, it powers up. Cabinet is painted over in black and the B button on player one is broken. Monitor is screwy. Has several vertical black lines. I have pictures posted below. I want to restore it to like new. I got some of the black paint off to reveal the old paint. It does play, and the sound is there. I may post this in Project Announcements when I get going on the restoration. I should probably post this in monitors as well, but can anyone tell me what might be wrong with my screen?

Thanks

SirPeale · « **Reply #1 on:** July 16, 2007, 09:07:06 pm »

Cap kit.

USSEnterprise · « **Reply #2 on:** July 16, 2007, 09:35:10 pm »

I'll give it a shot with the cap kit. Its only $10. Now just got to work up the courage to discharge the monitor.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #3 on:** July 16, 2007, 09:37:34 pm »

What color is under the black paint ?

USSEnterprise · « **Reply #4 on:** July 16, 2007, 10:05:14 pm »

orange on the sides. I've started to strip one of the sides, to reveal the orange paint and a generic-looking nintendo sideart

Crowquill · « **Reply #5 on:** July 17, 2007, 05:25:03 am »

Quote from: USSEnterprise on July 16, 2007, 10:05:14 pm

orange on the sides. I've started to strip one of the sides, to reveal the orange paint and a generic-looking nintendo sideart

So probably it was a DK Junior converted to Vs Unisystem. Most have the multicolored sideart like the listing on KLOV. There was also grey unisystem sideart used. Can you read the info on the serial number plate? It would tell you for sure what the original game was.

Very nice find. The cap kit might fix the monitor completely and at worst it'll give you a good place to start troubleshooting other minor problems. For a freebie it's awesome that the monitor works at all. A button is an easy fix. Lucky for you Nintendo joysticks never break.

USSEnterprise · « **Reply #6 on:** July 17, 2007, 09:17:37 am »

The model plate on the machine reads MGS-UP-US
I just found a model plate inside the machine, inside a baggy with an FBI sticker reading TMA1-UP-US

The sideart that I can barely read seems to say Nintento VS System.

The fact that there are two plates confirms for me that this game was converted, right?

USSEnterprise · « **Reply #7 on:** July 17, 2007, 09:31:38 am »

The monitor is either model 510WEB22 or (Y) 211. From what I understand, the original monitor in most early Nintendo games is made by Sanyo, but I saw no Sanyo markings. However, it is very dusty in there, and I do not have access to an air compressor or vacuum right now, From those numbers I provided, is this likely the sanyo monitor that I am seeing a cap kit readily available for.

Crowquill · « **Reply #8 on:** July 17, 2007, 10:28:12 am »

MGS serials denote a Vs Unisystem (like yours has). TMA serials would be Mario Bros. The question is whether Mario Bros was a conversion kit or the original cabinet. Although details are sketchy, I've always understood that the only dedicated Mario Bros was the widebody cabinet. Other sites mention that SOME Mario Bros were made as a widebody. What still seems fishy to me is that the widebody cab and all that Nintendo made after that use a different type of coin door.

There's a pretty well-documented restoration/conversion HERE. It seems to have fairly detailed info about the Nintendo cabs.

Whole lotta Nintendo cabinet info discussed at length on BYOAC

Listing of Nintendo ID/serial numbers.

USSEnterprise · « **Reply #9 on:** July 17, 2007, 11:25:39 pm »

My father is trying to convince me to MAME this thing. It would cost about $200 for functionality and another $100 for cosmetic, whereas now, its maybe $30 functionality and $150 cosmetic. I'd like to finally have a MAME cab, but I also don't like the thought of destroying a semi-classic, and I'd kind of like to have a few dedicated machines eventually, in addition to MAME. I can always pick up a totally trashed cab sometime and MAME that, Or I could use my custom built one, but too much money would be involved. I'm more conflicted than usual. Opinions?

Kaytrim · « **Reply #10 on:** July 17, 2007, 11:55:36 pm »

Super Mario Bros. is not a classic. It was a port from NES. Go ahead and MAME the machine.

USSEnterprise · « **Reply #11 on:** July 18, 2007, 12:27:32 am »

I'm not planing on using mame for fighters, mainly classics. The only trouble would be fitting a trackball and spinner to this panel. I could expand the CP, but it probably wouldn't look too good. Another option is to convert to another Nintendo game, such as a Donkey Kong, which is a classic I would like to own. If I went this route, would I have to do anything other than rotating the monitor and swapping out the boards to get it running?

Thanks

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #12 on:** July 18, 2007, 12:29:17 am »

Clean it up and pretty it up as a Super Mario Bros.....

That cab has too small of a control panel for a good MAME project.

I'm almost positive that's a Sanyo 20EZ monitor. Look around the metal framing for the any stamped lettering, you should find something like "EZV".

USSEnterprise · « **Reply #13 on:** July 18, 2007, 01:20:12 am »

Does anyone know where to get an approximation of the nintendo orange paint, either in a can for use with a roller or in a spray can? cleaning it up and painting it will be the first step. Could I get a close match at Lowes or HomeDepot?

NightGod · « **Reply #14 on:** July 18, 2007, 03:44:56 am »

Quote from: USSEnterprise on July 18, 2007, 01:20:12 am

Does anyone know where to get an approximation of the nintendo orange paint, either in a can for use with a roller or in a spray can? cleaning it up and painting it will be the first step. Could I get a close match at Lowes or HomeDepot?

Take a paint chip into just about any store that sells paint and they can scan and match the color. I've even seen it in hardware stores located in towns of about 1,500 people-it's very common technology these days.

Crowquill · « **Reply #15 on:** July 18, 2007, 07:45:06 am »

From the restoration project I linked to:

Quote

I was lucky to find that one of the Behr colors was a very close match: Behr Kumquat 230B-7

Are you planning on stripping off the black?

There are definitely better cabs to MAME for general-purpose use. At this point I'd definitely say it's worth it to get the cap kit done and get it to a working state as Super Mario Bros. IIRC, you'll have to hunt down at least a new wiring harness to convert it back to DK/Jr.

If you want to go the MAME route, You could make a new control panel so that it could always be converted back. For only classics, you could fit things into a Nintendo panel if you want:

Joy Button-button-button Trackball

2-player setups on a classic Nintendo cab are a tight squeeze. That's why they made the widebody cab for Mario Bros.

You might want to see what's invloved in converting it back to DK.You can download the conversion kit manual for Mario Bros here. Do it in reverse to convert back to DK

I'm not sure if Vs Unisystem uses different wiring harness or power supply.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #16 on:** July 18, 2007, 09:38:07 am »

Quote from: Kaytrim on July 17, 2007, 11:55:36 pm

Super Mario Bros. is not a classic. It was a port from NES. Go ahead and MAME the machine.

While I personally despise SMB and those horrible little broken joysticks, I have one (it was my first restoration and a good choice for a first restoration) and lots of people love it. Also, since it is a VS cabinet, it is not limited to running SMB and there are a few decent VS games out there.

There ain't a ton of real estate on the CP for more than a simple classics configuration. Also will need to accommodate the inverted video if you want to MAME it using the original monitor.

My advice would be to get it back up and running as an SMB, which is your easiest route and will provide a good learning experience to build on. Also gives you options going down the road in case you want to make it a DK, DKJr or DDK.

If it is a Sanyo EZ-V, be sure to cap the audio board at the same time you do the rest of the monitor.

As far as paint codes go .... wait for it ....

wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki wiki

pr0k's page (link in the wiki) has the DK Jr. Orange codes for Lowes Enterprise (coincidence or providence?) brand.

EDIT: Forgot to mention ... a good cab for USSE ... light and small footprint ... might actually fit in the basement.

ChadTower · « **Reply #17 on:** July 18, 2007, 09:50:09 am »

But will the engine block start losing compression a month after he buys it?

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #18 on:** July 18, 2007, 09:51:27 am »

Quote from: ChadTower on July 18, 2007, 09:50:09 am

But will the engine block start losing compression a month after he buys it?

Hey, shipping was free and no exhaust leaks so far ...

USSEnterprise · « **Reply #19 on:** July 18, 2007, 09:56:37 am »

Quote

might actually fit in the basement.

Haven't tried yet, but according to my calculations, it should.

Thanks for the links, Cheffo. I rarely think to check the wiki.

As for the sound, it is suprisingly good for a 22 year old machine. Lots of (relatively) deep bass for this game. I do have another question. The game came with a device inside, not attached to anything. Looks like a potentiometer mounted to a heatsink, with a black box mounted behind it. I thought it might be a spinner, but it only has 2 wires coming from it. I'll get a pic of it up soon. Any ideas?

And Chad, for the past 3 months, my car has been perfectly fine.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #20 on:** July 18, 2007, 10:10:47 am »

In my original post I neglected to explicitly support Peale's assertion about a cap kit ... I know that I have read about EZ-20 jail bars being related to caps, because I had a vertical foldover in mine and that was cited as a particular cap in the same documentation (do a full kit, though, don't limit it to the caps cited for your particular problem).

Cap it ... and do the audio board at the same time (while I haven't taken the chassis out of my EZ20 in a while, I do recall it being a PITA).

That is a sensible first step, is cheap and will give you confidence to proceed along whatever route you choose.

Ah ... found the link to the monitor symptoms list (was in the wiki the whole time).

http://www.ionpool.net/arcade/capkits/_BadCaps.txt

USSEnterprise · « **Reply #21 on:** July 18, 2007, 11:23:31 am »

I already saw that document on the quarterarcade site, but thanks. Quarterarcade sells a cap kit for this monitor for $10, but it seems that I can get all the needed parts from Mouser for $5.00 shipped. Is there any disadvantage to not buying the cap kit, as opposed to buying individual caps? I would replace all of them, not just the "jail bars" ones, as well as those on the audio board.

Thanks

shardian · « **Reply #22 on:** July 18, 2007, 11:27:49 am »

Quote from: USSEnterprise on July 18, 2007, 11:23:31 am

I already saw that document on the quarterarcade site, but thanks. Quarterarcade sells a cap kit for this monitor for $10, but it seems that I can get all the needed parts from Mouser for $5.00 shipped. Is there any disadvantage to not buying the cap kit, as opposed to buying individual caps? I would replace all of them, not just the "jail bars" ones, as well as those on the audio board.

Thanks

You get a diagram of the chassis showing where each part goes.

ChadTower · « **Reply #23 on:** July 18, 2007, 11:33:55 am »

Really? I've bought two cap kits from them and didn't get one with either.

shardian · « **Reply #24 on:** July 18, 2007, 11:37:19 am »

Quote from: ChadTower on July 18, 2007, 11:33:55 am

Really? I've bought two cap kits from them and didn't get one with either.

http://www.quarterarcade.com/Game.aspx/6829

Quote

Wells Gardner 4900 series 19" monitor cap kit. Includes all of the caps that typically fail with a Wells Gardner 4900 19" monitor as well as one-page instruction sheet with the cap kit values and location.

ChadTower · « **Reply #25 on:** July 18, 2007, 11:52:33 am »

Oh, I believe you... but the two cap kits I got didn't have them.

SirPeale · « **Reply #26 on:** July 18, 2007, 12:14:47 pm »

Heck, if you can get all those caps for less than $5.00 shipped, I'd do just that. Then I'd line up the caps by value and just go to town replacing them. Since you're going to replace them all anyway, it would save you a few bucks.

As you replace them, take a black sharpie (or equivalent) and mark the top of each cap you replace. That way you don't lose your place.

It would be obvious anyway, I'm sure, since the old caps won't look anything like the new ones. But it's still a good practice.

ChadTower · « **Reply #27 on:** July 18, 2007, 12:27:00 pm »

Yep... but be aware they won't match up exactly in terms of voltage and/or capacitance. The actual replacement cap values will be slightly higher in many cases.

SirPeale · « **Reply #28 on:** July 18, 2007, 03:26:36 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on July 18, 2007, 12:27:00 pm

Yep... but be aware they won't match up exactly in terms of voltage and/or capacitance. The actual replacement cap values will be slightly higher in many cases.

I must have missed something. If he writes down the values of each cap, and orders those caps, how will the values differ?

ChadTower · « **Reply #29 on:** July 18, 2007, 03:37:47 pm »

Exact values from 20 years ago for every single cap may not be both available and in stock. It's not uncommon, from what I've seen, to have to use substitute values for at least a couple.

vainbatchelor42 · « **Reply #30 on:** June 23, 2015, 12:55:49 am »

Mine looks just like that but blue. Boards the same. My serial numbers is29194 pak and model number is mgs-up-us. I bought a 60 in one o hope it will work. Any help would b greatly appreciated if it will work

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yotsuya · « **Reply #31 on:** June 23, 2015, 01:20:48 am »

Considering that Super Mario Bros is a horizontal game, and the 60-1 is all verticals, it's not going to be plug and play.

vainbatchelor42 · « **Reply #32 on:** June 23, 2015, 01:29:59 am »

Can I turn the monitor?

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vainbatchelor42 · « **Reply #33 on:** June 23, 2015, 01:30:55 am »

And any links on the hook up of the board

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yotsuya · « **Reply #34 on:** June 23, 2015, 10:25:56 am »

Quote from: vainbatchelor42 on June 23, 2015, 01:29:59 am

Can I turn the monitor?

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Sure, it can be turned. The question is do you have the skillset to do it?

You're also going to need to swap out the wiring harness, because Super Mario Bros isn't wired for JAMMA.

vainbatchelor42 · « **Reply #35 on:** June 23, 2015, 03:48:36 pm »

From my understanding it's jamma + ? Still learning what that is.

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yotsuya · « **Reply #36 on:** June 23, 2015, 03:50:13 pm »

Good luck with your project.

vainbatchelor42 · « **Reply #37 on:** June 24, 2015, 06:06:39 pm »

I also have the same cab. It's a mario vs serial number 29194pak

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