** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** GIFT: Sketchup plans and... ARTWORK!

[ARTIFACT]

ALL pictures displayed in these posts are updated!

They used to appear "jaggy" due to some code problems - Saint fixed the problems after I reported them in the "Forum Discussion" section.

 

Now my cuts look smooth

[ARTIFACT]

Got my controls from Divemaster (I recommend doing business with him) 


Unfortunately I just realized how short of a throw the MAG STICK PLUS joysticks have... I posted a new thread about it in the main forum to ask for input.

Pushbuttons feel really nice! This is my first arcade project, so I am learning and discovering as I go.


Next I will be doing cardboard tests/templates of my CP.

stay tuned

[theCoder]

Got my controls from Divemaster...

After you do your cardboard CP layout, you will want to avoid the temptation to layout and cut your control panel.  Your next step should be with your artwork.  Some people (er, uh, not me of course) have found out the hard way that it is hard to get your printed artwork to line up exactly with existing holes in wood.  Things line up MUCH better when you make small centering marks in your final artwork, punch center holes through the artwork to the wood, then cut your holes.  You are more likely to get the artwork matched up with your controls that way.  I'm not sure if you found that in your research, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to mention it at this point.

Great progress.

[bfauska]

That is also a great way to make sure you end up getting artwork.  I have assembled several CPs for my cabinet and I don't mind the idea of replacing the one I have with a new one cut to fit the artwork, my problem is that the cabinet is now playable w/o art.  I think cabinets that are playable before they are "finished" tend to stay that way sometimes, I know mine seems to.

[ARTIFACT]

theCoder:

hey thank you a ton for your great advice - as I said I'm totally new to all of this and although I think my design and planning went very well (no bad cut or measurement to report!), as well as my cabinet construction, I have plenty left to do and many newbie mistakes could happen (see my thread about my order of Mag Stick PLUS sticks...).


bfauska:

Totally! In fact, beside the fact that I don't have yet all the pieces / tools I need (slot cutting bit is on its way), I play my cabinet a lot already, just with an X-Arcade 2 Player unit sitting on top of my CP board (!) ... it would be very easy for me to think it's "done"

[ARTIFACT]

Just a quick pic of my cab with an X-Arcade stick sitting on future CP top, "testing" my cab
I am thinking to just put it in the closet (the X-Arcade) to FORCE myself to move forward with my construction ... as bfauska said, it's hard to make progress when the menu is there asking you to play "just one last SF2 game..." LOL




So far my son and I are enjoying these A LOT:

Ms Pac Man
Dig Dug
Donkey Kong
Baluba-louk no Densetsu - go try that one!


I personally love to play

SF2
Super SF2
Final Fight ... what other similar games do you like?
DoDonPatchi
Bomb Jack


The more I see pics of beautifully painted and colorful Ms PacMan, and others, the more I want to paint mine like that instead of staining the wood

[theCoder]

Ripoff is a great 2 player game.  You have to work as a team.  Very old, but very entertaining.

[ARTIFACT]

i'll make sure to check it out thanks!

[MrQuan]

Your cab is looking very nice!  I don't usually like woodgrain cabs with a few exceptions, yours being one of them (lowboys are another ).  Nice documentation.  You're motivating me to finish my own upright mame cab

[ARTIFACT]

You know, I am not 100% sure I'll keep the wood grain... I know that "covering" that nice Birch wood is heresy to some, but now I am almost certain I'll prime that baby and give it the paint look with several colors

Either a nintendo-themed decoration, or a mix of various arcade favorites of mine ... Something with stripes and stuff

I am not touching any paint/prime/brushes/stickers until I am SURE of what I want to do with it look-wise

SO right now I am planning things on the computer... I will post concepts as I get something decent together. I don't want to rush this...


Oh BTW quick update:

on the whole casters/feet thing ... I got 4 casters (2 fixed + 2 swivels w/ locks). They are 3" in height. That'll make my CP the perfect height (35" + 3" = 38" ) and will make it easy to move around. The 2 locked casters should stop the cab from moving, and the plywood will be protected.

There is going to be 6 casters on my cab (!) ... those 4 I described above + 2 BEHIND

the casters behind are fixed (also 3") and will be perfect to drag the cab around by tilting it backward gently. I really want to make my cab ready for moving around the house / rooms if necessary. Each of these casters are rated to sustain 175 pounds. Price-wise it was around $5 each.

On my way to model all this in 3D (it helped a TON with the cutting / measurements... again no bad cut / error to report so far and this is my 1st cab).

Stay tuned!

[ARTIFACT]

ahah ... modeled the FIXED CASTER

that was a fun shape to model.






... and the swivel caster

also fun to model - not as "accurate" as the fixed caster (some funky metal curves on this one!), but measurements are still all exact




Why am I modeling these things like that? ... because I love to plan in advance... see how it will look at certain angles (rotating around the CAD scene), how all the elements will connect. To me this was VITAL in the way the base cabinet was built.

Next I placed these casters on the cabinet in the CAD scene and find the best placements..

(overview)


Below: simulating "human vision" (angle / height of average person walking by + using the cabinet):



(below: I placed the casters to avoid any contact with the floor when tilting the cabinet back ... see the flat angle between under & back casters is away from the plywood)



... Next? ... Put the casters on the cabinet "for real"

[ARTIFACT]

one more model for the road...

CHERRY PUSHBUTTON MICROSWITCH!

This one is going to be handy when I plan my CP in details.

[AcidArmitage]

you've got some serious "planning ahead" skills

[MaMeNnO]

Now that's planning! Looks pretty good.

I think you forgot to model the screws...

[MrQuan]

I put castors on the back like you, makes moving it a bit easier but it's still heavy as all hell.  On the base I have these teflon carpet saver disc thingies

Anyways, nice planning.  Looks like an Ikea ad

[ARTIFACT]

hahaha :-)

yes i love doing this stuff...

i designed the cab so the TV (and computer + back panel) can be removed before moving it - makes it quite light because of t

[ARTIFACT]

Next model I made:

Happ Pushbutton
(+ my cherry microswitch)

This will be great to have when planning my CP in details... I can see EXACTLY where the buttons will sit inside the box... where the connectors stick out, etc.



6 buttons configuration ... rotated to allow cherries to have space:

[mcfreak]

Man, those models would be great examples for the wiki...  What the hell is a "Cherry Microswitch"??  Well, here is a model. 

[theCoder]

For the casters on the back side, I'd recommend cutting off the metal on the bottom side.  You can then mount the wheel closer to the ground.  This will get the weight on the wheels earlier, and allow you to position it so ALL of the weight is on the wheels instead of your forearms when you move it.  In the picture below, the casters are not yet mounted, but you see the metal removed on one side. 

[ARTIFACT]

Man, those models would be great examples for the wiki...  What the hell is a "Cherry Microswitch"??  Well, here is a model. 

Good idea


theCoder: Interesting! How do you mount the casters behind if the metal plate is cut, where the screw holes are located? I see that 2 of the 4 screw holes are still present, but I wounldn't trust the original weight rating of the casters with only half the screws present. Are you going to drill 2 additional holes by removing the wheel to give you acess under it?  Thanks!

[Loki]

Looks awesome
I also love your sketchup models... wish I was that good

[ARTIFACT]

Update!

I got a complete coin door for from a friend!

The details about it:

. It is a Canadian coin door ($1 and $2 coins)
. It comes with a set of spare pieces for a US coin door (door plate + coin mechs + buttons)


... I am going to have to figure out how to "combine" these - see if the screws line up (my friend mentioned that the Canadian door may not be standard, not 100% sure) in order to get a fully working US coin door.

Otherwise I'll get a bunch of canadian coins ... and just use those with my cab...


I'll model THAT next I guess

[mountain]

Nice cabinet Artifact! I really like the design.

You should upload the models of the buttons and switches to the Sketchup 3D Warehouse. I imagine a lot of us here could put them to good use. 

[theCoder]

How do you mount the casters behind if the metal plate is cut, where the screw holes are located? I see that 2 of the 4 screw holes are still present, but I wounldn't trust the original weight rating of the casters with only half the screws present. Are you going to drill 2 additional holes by removing the wheel to give you acess under it?  Thanks!

I drilled one additional hole in the center on the side that was cut off.  I used the largest diameter lag bolts I could get through the holes.  I think they were 3/8" diameter if memory serves me.  The wood behind it was thick, around 2".  They could handle a drop from the back of a truck.  No worries about the strength.

[ARTIFACT]

I drilled one additional hole in the center on the side that was cut off.  I used the largest diameter lag bolts I could get through the holes.  I think they were 3/8" diameter if memory serves me.  The wood behind it was thick, around 2".  They could handle a drop from the back of a truck.  No worries about the strength.

Great, thanks for the info. I'll keep this in mind. I am not sure how to cut the side of the caster though - that's some tough metal!! Just a hand metal hack-saw?

UPDATE - Good news about the coin door + parts my friend gave me
I removed the canadian coin door out of the frame/box
I mounted the US coin door (spare part my friend gave me) to the canadian frame/box - it fit fine!
I assembled the 2 coin mechs my friend gave me into the US coin door

The coin mechs "kind of work" - your input / advice is welcome here:
. one of the mechs always get the coin stuck in the beginning of the loop
. one of the mechs gets the coin stuch half of the time (and drops the coin successfully otherwise)
DO I NEED TO TAKE APART THE MECHS AND "CLEAN" THEM? OIL THEM? ANY ADVICE? I DONT WANT TO LOOSE A PIECE/SPRING IN THE PROCESS

Issue with space + the coin box:
I didn't realize how tall the coin door assembly is... and how deep the coin box is... my wood frame (2x4 studs) is in the way horizontally toward the bottom of my cab. In order to make it work, I will have to make a new box that is not as tall... Probably out of plywood (easy).

And of course, some pictures

US Coin Mechs (need some cleaning to improve?) ... one of them has a date "inspected March 17th 1989"


Canadian Door Frame/Box + US Coin Door + US Coin mechs 



Since I am taking apart my cabinet to get ready for painting / slot cutting / etc ... here is a picture of my make-shift Bezel (foam core sheets) I owe you guys.
It's not "perfect" but looks fine especially with the gray smoked plexi-glass.

[superbigjay]

Since I am taking apart my cabinet to get ready for painting / slot cutting / etc ... here is a picture of my make-shift Bezel (foam core sheets) I owe you guys.
It's not "perfect" but looks fine especially with the gray smoked plexi-glass.

I love that foam idea!!!
I'm gonne use it in my cab!!! 

Jay:cheers:

[ARTIFACT]

let me warn you about a few things I found out:

. The only problem is that the TV is *huge* (27" Sony Trinitron)
. so I needed 2 foam core sheets to cover it (well most of it got covered with 1, but 3 inches at the top required a strip from a second sheet)
. foam core sheets do NOT "bend" ... older Sony Trinitron TVs are "curved" horizontally
. to mount the foam core sheets on the TV front, I used velcro strips
. velcro strips are "OKAY" ... the adhesive is not that strong, and the bezel pulls away from the TV
. I plan to use thin, long strips of plywood on the sides, perhaps velcro THOSE to the inside of the cab (not sure yet) instead of using velcro on the bezel <> TV itself

If I were to redo the bezel (and I may), I would use PLASTIC SHEETS ... Not sure the name, but I saw them for $4 at the plastic store where I got my plexiglass from... It was a couple of days AFTER I had done the foam-core bezel... Advantages: they bend fine (won't "snap" away from the TV), and they are BIG (1 sheet would cover the TV), they look like corners could be "shaped" by forcing (like cardboard/paper)

[Knievel]

Don't know what I like more, that cabinet or the cool renderings. Love the shape!

Wish I could whip up sketches like that. Tried that program once and it wasn't coming to me as quickly as I'd hoped.

[ARTIFACT]

Knievel, just so you know you are the hero of a whole generation (or two)! Your projects are very inspiring and I love how you finish your cabinet looks.

Thank you for dropping by my project thread and checking out my design + progress.

Some sketchup tips:
. USE GROUPS! Without grouping, you'll always destroy your shapes by mistake. Even 1 shape should be grouped to "solidify" it
. USE COMPONENTS! Built something you want to reuse (button, etc)? Right click > Make component
. TYPE MEASUREMENTS IN EVERY TIME YOU DO SOMETHING ... drew a plywood base square? Type "8', 4'" (ENTER) and it will resize to that measurement... Extruded the width of the plywood base? Type "3/4" (ENTER) and it will be exactly 3/4" extruded

I hope this helps

[Gatsu]

Wow man. That cabinet looks amazing.

Since 3rd Strike is compatible with Mame now...I think I may convert my arcade console into a full cabinet again. muharharhar!

Do you think I could maybe snag a copy of your building plans from you? If not thats cool. I just really like the layout and the size of it is just right. Not too big. Not too small.

[ARTIFACT]

Hi there,

Feel free to use the images I posted in the original post (not super complete, but you can see the inside frame and overall structure). I am still tweaking the model and plans (will shave off 3" in the back - will make it flat, etc) so I'd like to wait a bit before posting more details about the plans.

I'm glad you like it! I hope to make it look great artwork-wise... I am 99% sure I'll cover that wood with paint (I know, I know...)

[Gatsu]

cool thanky. I'll make sure once I get it started you get credit for the plans and design. 

[Knievel]

Hey thanks, and thanks for the Sketchup tips.

Just taking a better look at your pictures and it looks like you secured your sides by driving screws though them. In this case I think you would be better off going with your new plan of painting the cabinet. Getting wood filler to stain the same color as your wood is tricky business.

If you were to stain it I would go with an opaque stain which hides most of the grain and imperfections. 

[ARTIFACT]

I was planning to be "ok" with having visible screw locations - small circles of "filler" - even with a different shade (to me it's ok)
but yes I think I'll paint instead. It seems more and more "authentic" to go this way visually anyway.

Please read my questions above and let me know if you have input for me (coin mechs)

[Knievel]

Sorry, I don't know much about coin mechs. Only used a coin door a few times and they were already functional.

I can set you up with some Canadian coins if you want.

[ARTIFACT]

nonono I got that figured out... The spare parts my friend gave me with the canadian door were US-based and I combined them all to have a 100% US quarters coin door.

My coin mech issue is that coins sometime get stuck, and one of them either get coins stuck or drops it in the coin return.
I believe it is because these are old mechs and they need some cleaning - that's the part I need input on

Beside its ok if you don't know ... I am asking everyone on BYOAC

[Jimbo]

Just taking a better look at your pictures and it looks like you secured your sides by driving screws though them. In this case I think you would be better off going with your new plan of painting the cabinet. Getting wood filler to stain the same color as your wood is tricky business.

If you were to stain it I would go with an opaque stain which hides most of the grain and imperfections. 

You can get a special Filler Gel that you mix with very fine wood/sawdust, which keeps the colour close to that of the wood, and is stainable... I have the URL of somewhere in the UK that sells this product (they can probably ship abroad).  Let me know if you want it

Jimbo

[Green Giant]

nonono I got that figured out... The spare parts my friend gave me with the canadian door were US-based and I combined them all to have a 100% US quarters coin door.

My coin mech issue is that coins sometime get stuck, and one of them either get coins stuck or drops it in the coin return.
I believe it is because these are old mechs and they need some cleaning - that's the part I need input on

Beside its ok if you don't know ... I am asking everyone on BYOAC

Have you tried giving them a WD40 bath.  When I got my coin door, the mechs looked much worse than yours and the didn't really work.  Looked at it a little bit and realized some metal was getting in the way.  Grabbed some pliers and bent it out of the way.  I don't really know what it was there for cause they work great now.

Basically you will just have to follow the coins with your eyes looking for the obstructions.  WD40 should help loosening up any dirt in there.

[Green Giant]

Don't know what I like more, that cabinet or the cool renderings. Love the shape!

Wish I could whip up sketches like that. Tried that program once and it wasn't coming to me as quickly as I'd hoped.

Knievel, just keep away from the sketchup program.  You already make the rest of us look like 4 year olds trying to build cabs.  If you made yours better it would just make the rest of us even more depressed.

[ARTIFACT]

thx for all the great input guys

wd40 it is then!