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Author Topic: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** GIFT: Sketchup plans and... ARTWORK!  (Read 71107 times)

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BLah247

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That looks really nice so far man.  Good luck with the rest of your build.

ARTIFACT

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thanks

I have another thread about the coin mechs getting stuck

WD40 is *NOT* ok based on the comments I read there... it's confusing!!! :)

ARTIFACT

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ok i spent some time last night learning how mechs are put together, and essentially they are full of dirt / solid dust - not the kind you can wipe clean or blow (i aleady did that) and they need to be WASHED to remove the dirt... i  am not sure what product / solution to use.


ARTIFACT

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i returned the 2 mag stick plus and am ordering 2 U360 instead.

i love the way the U360 switches modes automatically in Mala... and the throw seems more suitable with fighters than the mag stick's very short throw. I should have done more research before ordering controls.

i am keeping the IPAC2, this way I am not limited to the 8 connectors per U360... i may add pinball buttons, more admin buttons,etc.. you never know.

i started to play around with some side art concepts... i may attempt to paint them myself (big blocks/stripes of colors) using masking tape.. not sure yet (those custom vinyl prints are expensive!). if i am happy with some concepts i'll post images here.

thanks for all the encouragements ;)

stay tuned

ARTIFACT

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**** UPDATE ****

. modified the profile of the cab:
---- removed the "fin" (cut straight up from base)
---- made the back steeper
---- reduce depth by 3.5 inches!!

. all 6 casters are mounted!! (bolts)


Pics!

Casters mounted:


(I did not "cut" the caster to get it lower to the ground... It is fine like this, I can transfer all the weight instantly between the bottom casters and the ones behind... in fact it is on 4 wheels when I tip it back because of this... very cool and comfortable... the cab feels LIGHT now!)


With casters behind and at the bottom, it is easy to lay the cab down now! PHEW! it was impossible before without damaging the plywood  :applaud:



Improved (and shorter) profile (compare with pics in original post)!



... last but not least ... the money shot  ;D ;D ;D
« Last Edit: August 05, 2007, 01:52:10 am by ARTIFACT »

Zero_Hour

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THat is looking very nice indeed. Love the 6 casters idea.  :cheers:
"Paradise, is exactly like where you are right now - only much, MUCH better." -Laurie Anderson

mcfreak

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Very impressive.  Love the attention to detail and the wheels on the back... Great Idea!

ARTIFACT

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I made some progress today in the back of the cab:

. added a board to sandwich the screen plexiglass (velcro wasn't cutting it) ... this also fills in the gap at the top between the plexiglass and the flat bezel

. added supports to mount the big back roof panel


Will post pics later
« Last Edit: August 05, 2007, 03:41:07 pm by ARTIFACT »

The Chugnut

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Been watching this project since the first post.

Incredible amount of detail has gone into the planning!  :notworthy:
You're pretty slick with the old Sketch Up.

Can't wait to see the end result!

ARTIFACT

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Thank you thank you! This project would not have been possible without all the great information here on BYOAC. I am very thankful to be a part of this wonderful community.

****************   UPDATE ********************

. The roof back is mounted!
. Plexiglass back support mounted!

I still need to sand everything like crazy to tame those remaining curve details, but the project is coming together very well :)


PICS!

Screen plexiglass "sandwich" board mounted:



Roof Back Panel mounted:


Front view w/ details of the above progress:



... I think I'm done cutting large pieces of wood! :)
To summarize this is what's left to do:

. coin door mounting
. route slot cut for T-Molding
. Control Panel planning (finalize where buttons are, test on a scrap piece, etc)
. artwork design & planning
. wood fill :) ... lots of it! (lots of tiny 1/16 ~ 1/32 gaps here and there ... that's what wood fill is for)
. sand / prime / paint / etc
. Put t-molding on cabinet
. Put marquee retainers and marquee on
. Wire computer / TV / Power back up
. final CP holes for sticks + buttons + wiring
« Last Edit: August 05, 2007, 11:45:06 pm by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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********** UPDATE *************

. Coin door hole is cut
. Coin door is mounted and fits!

(You can see my wood frame is in the way of the coin "box" though - oups - so I'll build a smaller plywood box that fits)

(took it back out after I took the pics - lots of sanding/fill/prime is what's next)


PICS:







« Last Edit: August 07, 2007, 12:22:24 am by ARTIFACT »

Green Giant

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Looks great so far. 

How is the weight using that plywood?  I didn't notice alot of inside bracing which would cut down the weight, is there a frame inside?

I was wondering how you are planning on doing that control panel.  It looks like it is already mounted in there.  Does the top piece come out of the box easily?  Looks like the bottom and front are pretty permanent.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

ARTIFACT

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check out my first post in this thread, there is a wood frame inside (VERY sturdy) and I have posted the plans

The cab is HEAVY  :) ... but ever since my "6 casters system" is installed, the cab feels very light... I just didn't feel comfortable using materials such as MDF  (perhaps next time - this is my first cab and I went for birch)

I can lay it on its back side instantly, and push it around the workshop to work on it.

You can see that it's open under the CP at the moment (panel there is mounted using velcro, for now, and will preserve the screw locations in case I need to take it out in the future).
I can do all my connections from there, and access is even easier when tilting the cab on its back.

I am planning to do some tests (cardboards, then another plywood CP like the one that's mounted) before I am 100% sure of where the control holes go, etc.
« Last Edit: August 07, 2007, 06:40:49 am by ARTIFACT »

KenToad

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All I can say is, Wow.  Thank you for taking the time to make this thread into a field of dreams for the rest of us. 

Keep the pics and helpful info coming. 

 :cheers:
KenToad
Just Say No to Partially Hydrogenated Oil  www.bantransfats.com

ARTIFACT

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You're welcome and THANK YOU for the kind words!!

You know... I am new to woodworking altogether... I am learning as I go.
This is not only my first arcade cabinet project (still figuring out the difference between joysticks, etc), it is also one of my first construction projects altogether.

***** UPDATE *****

Speaker Grilles Cut!
I cut them bigger than my speakers are, as I am pretty sure I'll put in better / bigger speakers at one point.



T-Molding Slot CUT!
This was a NIGHTMARE - you know why? As I said I am learning: I had mounted the blade UPSIDE DOWN (!) and messed things up a bit half way thru the 1st side.
After flipping it correctly, it cut thru the second side like butter :) ... it should be OK.
Another thing is that it is hard to slot cut dead center! it is always either a bit toward one side or the other... no matter how much measurement I set on the router. Oh well. Hopefully it won't stick out too much.



No overview picture yet - I need to put it back together... Stay tuned :)

ARTIFACT

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Planning my CP layout

I posted a thread about it here with lots of questions :) ... thanks for your help!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=69847.msg713713#msg713713


Overview (hidden lines):

CLICK HERE FOR LARGE VERSION

Overview (x-ray):

CLICK HERE FOR LARGE VERSION
« Last Edit: August 08, 2007, 07:31:44 pm by ARTIFACT »

KenToad

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You can mount the joysticks so that their bases are vertically oriented and give yourself a little more room to squeeze the buttons in closer to the joystick, or to put in a "Neo Geo" button.  Also, I didn't check out the link, but didn't anyone mention that it's really not cool to put the exit button anywhere close to the top of the CP?   Guests and children tend to haphazardly whack any button that is visible.  :o

As for the T-molding.  What I do is save a spare piece of the material to be routed and a few small pieces of the T-molding.  Then, you can rout several times and test fit the T-molding until it's "perfect" before actually slotting up your project.

And, yup, it's still looking good.   :cheers:
Just Say No to Partially Hydrogenated Oil  www.bantransfats.com

ARTIFACT

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you are the best! great info
thank you

i dont think i understand what you described about routing piece by piece. if you can please explain again :) thx!

ill update when i get a chance

KenToad

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Well, my advice about routing is meant for next time, since you already did the routing.  And, it looks good, I might add.  With my project, I just kept a scrap of MDF aside and I would eyeball adjust the depth of the router bit, rout a small section, then pound an inch or so of T-molding in there to test fit.  I did that probably about 5 times before I was satisfied that it was as good as I was going to get it and that the T-molding wouldn't hang over the edge.  After that, I routed the two sides of my box with the router bit already set.  The problem with just measuring for the center is that the T-molding itself may not have the tongue part of the molding in the exact center, not to mention that it's a pain to have to account for the size of the slot itself when measuring for the center and setting the depth of the bit.  Also, make sure you use a rubber mallet or something similar when you gently pound in the T-molding.  The slot makes the wood relatively crushable.

As for the other advice, that's pretty standard advice around here, usually one of the first constructive comments made about a particular CP layout.

Keep it up. 

 :cheers:
Just Say No to Partially Hydrogenated Oil  www.bantransfats.com

ARTIFACT

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thanks i got it this tme :)

ok yes as they say practice makes perfect...next time will be better :)

what a fun project...

ARTIFACT

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**** UPDATE ****

. Fixed some screws that needed some counter-sink treatment

. Started to fill all the gaps and counter-sink screws with wood fill

. Did some work on the marquee + CPO artwork ... preview of marquee below (background is all custom drawn from scratch :) ... NOT a screenshot)
CPO will be VERY SIMPLE with the landscape orange/yellow "bands" (stripes) ala Space Harrier - bleeding on the front panel of the CP box as well
(still tweaking things of course, but getting close to my liking)

CLICK HERE FOR LARGER VERSION

. Updated CP layout, incorporating feedback - see exit/menu button away in the left corner, and rotated joysticks to save space - keeping the 2x2 mounts, I don't need to be THAT close from the edge

Hidden Lines:

CLICK HERE FOR LARGE VERSION

X-Ray:

CLICK HERE FOR LARGE VERSION

Perspective view (ignore the innacurate stick tops :) )

CLICK HERE FOR LARGE VERSION


I *really* need the dimensions for the Tornado Spinner ... I am worried that the guts of it under the CP are too large to fit where I want it.
Any owner of htat spinner around? Mind measuring it or attaching a PDF spec of it? THANKS
« Last Edit: August 09, 2007, 02:57:47 am by ARTIFACT »

Austin.Wolff

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Lookin' good man.

Zero_Hour

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That Marquee is outstanding, the cab is looking sweet, and you Sketchup skills seem to be without limit. Hope I do half as good when I start pulling out the power tools.  :notworthy:
"Paradise, is exactly like where you are right now - only much, MUCH better." -Laurie Anderson

ARTIFACT

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THANK YOU so much Zero_Hour!!! :)

You guys are the best, and I am really impressed by the BYOAC community... the best online community I've ever seen.

Havok

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Why not go with the GroovyGameGear TT2 spinner? It fits in a standard button hole...

ARTIFACT

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i am ordering from divemaster127 and he said the ggg tt2 'feels cheap'

i was followng his advice to go with the tornado spinner ... doesnt the tornado spinner seem much more 'substantial' i its mecanism though?

i havent touched or seen eitherone so i don't mind ordering one over the other.

thanks for you input

ARTIFACT

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quick design change:

. made the CP top removable (mount it with bolts, accessible thru the back of the cab

. mounted the CP box bottom (under) permanently (it was removable before)


this new design makes more sense:

. i can now independetly finish the cabinet without having to get the CP 'right away'

. i can actually use the router to mount my trackball (etc.) - i realized that it wouldn't fit acessing from below :)

. i wn't have to work 'upside down' when wiring or troubleshooting my controls :)

no photos yet - posting this from my phone - wil do later today.


.. now back to sanding + 2nd wood fill pass + seal CP bottom w/ wood fill

this is the life :)
thanks again everyone here

ARTIFACT

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done ... waiting for wood fill to dry now ... COME ON FASTER!!! :)


How would man survive without wood fill BTW? ... I love this stuff ;D

xmenxmen

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A tip on centering t-molding for your future project.  On a piece of identical scrap wood, eye-ball the center, run it thru a small area, turn it over, run it thru the same area.  Now repeat with small adjustment until cutting on both side end up at the same location.

Learn that from someone else here....

ARTIFACT

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thanks for the tips!

Knievel

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Whoa, lots of progress. Love the coin door and the speaker slots..nice work.

Getting a sweet Atari 2600 Chopper Command vibe from that marquee. :D

I'll measure the underside of my Tornado spinner if you can't find the info. It's really not that big..maybe 3"x2"

mcfreak

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Man I love my GGG TurboTwist.  Its the only one I have heard of that has a high enough resolution to work with Arkanoid and Ark ROD.  Its also great that it fits in a standard button size hole.  Compact design and multiple options for the knob.

I would read a few reviews before you take someone's word on it that it is "cheap".

I know there is a thread talking about Arkanoid and the Tornado and the TT2...  If this is one of the reasons you are getting it, I would suggest getting a second opinion.

BTW,  The control panel designs look great.  I also can't find anything I don't like about your Marquee.

ARTIFACT

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you guys are awesome :)

wait til i post all the latest pics w/ the cp mockup done!

ARTIFACT

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**** UPDATE! ****

PICS!

Close-up of speaker grills + screen plexiglass support slot:


Gotta love wood fill:


Top CP Panel is now removable (see my post with details about that above):


Bottom CP panel is now permanently mounted (was removable before) and wood-filled around (will dry overnight):


Frame in the way of box metal coin box (BEFORE):


Frame not in the way any more! Big box fits now (AFTER):


Sketchup on one side to measure, saw horses on the other side to draw and cut (MOCKUP CP):


BOOM!


and RE-BOOM!

CLICK HERE FOR A LARGE VERSION

Comfortable! Exactly where my fingers fall ...
(Button #4 will be my neo geo #1 instead of adding a 7th)


Flip it around ... CHERRIES! :)


Tidy!

CLICK HERE FOR A LARGE VERSION


(I am waiting to get the measurements of the Tornado Spinner before cutting any hole for it on my mockup CP - stay tuned)
« Last Edit: August 09, 2007, 11:28:07 pm by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/9
« Reply #114 on: August 10, 2007, 01:38:40 am »
Threw together a low-res visualization of how it may all come together (black will look BETTER than all flat like this of course :) )

Regarding the lack of side-art + visual design decisions:

My family is going to look at this all day everyday for years ... I don't want to go tooooo crazy on the colors, prints, etc...
I want the cab to "blend" with the den / TV room, with its existing all-black furniture and red walls.




CPO details coming up next  (button labels, etc)

javeryh

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/9
« Reply #115 on: August 10, 2007, 12:16:29 pm »
Regarding the lack of side-art + visual design decisions:

My family is going to look at this all day everyday for years ... I don't want to go tooooo crazy on the colors, prints, etc...
I want the cab to "blend" with the den / TV room, with its existing all-black furniture and red walls.

Woah - nice job so far.  I love the art too.  I agree with you about not making it too crazy looking.  I ordered side art for my arcade and I taped it in place for a few weeks and every single person who saw it said they liked the plain (pink!) sides better even though they really liked how the side art looked as a piece of art.  Sometimes simple is the way to go I guess.

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/9
« Reply #116 on: August 10, 2007, 12:39:46 pm »
:)

Thanks javeryh

I may get a simple sticker of the logo printed by itself and use it for the sides
small (10 inches wide or so)
maybe dark gray / blend with black side even ... I'll play with the idea a bit :)

BobA

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/9
« Reply #117 on: August 10, 2007, 02:02:11 pm »
Went thru the project from beginning to end.  Great job and your planning is excellent.  I like the lines of your cab and your use of plywood.  Looking forward to your finishing and detailing.

 :applaud:

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/9
« Reply #118 on: August 12, 2007, 02:18:08 am »
**** UPDATE ****

. Got a paint sprayer from a friend, will start applying prime coats + sanding fine each time SOON

. POWER BUTTON! ... Wired a Happ Pushbutton directly to the PC motherboard by disconnecting the existing power switch and extending the wires.
(a SMART STRIP will power the TV and marquee light when the PC is on - this Happ button will be placed behind the cab in a convenient place)


. Started to test the IPAC2 encoder + Happ Pushbuttons (this is my first time wiring, so I wanted to get comfortable with it) - IT ALL WORKS!

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/11
« Reply #119 on: August 13, 2007, 01:22:56 am »
Coat of prime is on!

(no pics sorry... looks all white :) )

  
 

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