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Author Topic: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** GIFT: Sketchup plans and... ARTWORK!  (Read 69728 times)

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ARTIFACT

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*** TRIBUTE VIDEO (HD) ***
Artifact Game Museum: From Dream to Reality


Let me know what you think!
I hope you enjoy it.

-art


FULL SKETCHUP PLANS + COMPONENTS + HIGH RES ARTWORK!
FREE*!


* all rights reserves. You cannot sell this plan and artwork, as a whole or a part of
* If you use it on your project, please provide a credit link back to this page :)

Cabinet and control panel Sketchup plans
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=68794.0;attach=88279

Sketchup Components:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=68794.0;attach=88280

300 DPI Marquee:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1352/1305611199_5582772dda_o.png

300 DPI Control panel:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1016/1263807170_aa00d230e6_o.png

Small previews:




----------------------------------------------------------




*****************************************************

You can read the full progress from scratch below >>>>>>>>>>>>>
-------------------------------------------
I am new to all of this BYOAC stuff, loving it so far, started designing my plans a few weeks ago, redesigned a few times to make sure, and spent about 4 "full" days on building so far (a few hours here and there when I find the time). I will be posting new pics every time I make progress.. this is how it works it seems :) I am happy to be a part of this amazing community! THANK YOU for all the great wiki content, discussions, information, etc - a GOLD MINE when planning such a project especially the first time for me.

Note that I am also new to woodworking :) ... I am a product designer :) so the whole plans/modeling thing was not a problem. The cutting/building part is something I am learning as I go about. Thanks in advance for looking at the pictures and supporting me as I go  :cheers:

GOALS
. elegant and minimal
. small CP ... not the big box "MK Style", more like the old (to me) profiles with the CP embedded in the cabinet's sides - that's my preference anyway :)

A few specs:

TOTAL COST $950

. 27" NTSC Monitor w/ RGB & BNC Leads (picked it up for FREE from a local post-production studio who switched to LCDs)
. dedicated PC: Pentium 4 at 2.8 Ghz, 1GB RAM, 120 GB HD, GeForce 4 video (picked it up for $200, mint also, including XP license)
. MALA front-end + attract video previews + custom layout + ambience sound + fatfingers plug-in for U360 maps
. optimized XP, most services disabled, boots directly into Mala
. minimal CP: 2 U360 sticks, 6 buttons per player + 1P and 2P START + EXIT button + TurboTwist 2 spinner w/ heavy knob + 3" Trans. Blue Happ Trackball w/ LED KIT (total ~$400)
. ACT LABS Lightgun (red) + VGA/USB PC Box ($102 including shipping)
. Bluetooth (wireless) keyboard + mouse - like remote controls: no keyboard "shelf" required!
. Cabinet is all Birch 3/4" - heavy but nice! (3 x $35)
. Frame is all 2x4 (3 x $2)
. Casters ($5 x 6)
. BITS Limited Smart Strip ($42 shipped)
. Grey Smoked Plexiglass for monitor ... $20
. 1/16" x 2 marquee plexiglass sandwich ($7)
. 1/8" Control Panel plexi-glass (~6$)
. RED T-Molding (~$15)
. Semi-Gloss Black paint all over (~$30)
. marquee + control panel overlay artwork from mamemarquees.com (custom designs) (~$97 shipped)
. Coin door w/ 2 "semi working" coin mechs (FREE! from a friend)
. Coin door LEDs (red) x 2 ($10)

Now some pictures...

Early overview - Control panel was different (read all posts to follow evolution)


overview (bottom)


front (perspective, flat with measurements)


CP open (early control panel - designed changed)


Marquee area close-up + tube light


Side + frame details


Frame measurements


Frame side details + 27" Monitor (the monitor actually sits a bit lower, the 2 stacked boards are not like that when I built it)


Enough CAD! :) ... let's build the frame!


Putting the (heavy) Monitor on it, testing PC placement under... ROCK SOLID!


Tracing the first birch plywood side (3/4")


1st side cut


2nd side cut ... clamping both sides together ... sanding them to match


1 side + frame connected


All the support pieces ... labelled and organized :)


An arcade machine emerges! ... 2 sides up


Coming along...


Everything fits snug ... gotta love that router action on the CP edge :)


Almost there...


Bezel in place (velcro rocks!) + grey smoked plexiglass



One of the many photos of the Control Panel fabrication


*** READ THE FULL THREAD TO FOLLOW EVOLUTION OF THE DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION ***

THANK YOU ALL for the inspiration and support.

-art
« Last Edit: August 15, 2010, 09:19:41 pm by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ARTIFACT - Upright from scratch
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2007, 04:53:24 pm »
edit double post
« Last Edit: August 15, 2010, 12:24:32 pm by ARTIFACT »

8way

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Re: ARTIFACT - Upright from scratch
« Reply #2 on: July 12, 2007, 05:39:22 pm »
Very nice work so far. Just wondering why you didnít cut out the speaker holes before mounting that piece above the TV. Looking forward to seeing the progress on this.

ARTIFACT

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Re: ARTIFACT - Upright from scratch
« Reply #3 on: July 12, 2007, 06:15:58 pm »
Very nice work so far. Just wondering why you didnít cut out the speaker holes before mounting that piece above the TV. Looking forward to seeing the progress on this.

Good question :)

All of these pieces are mounted using screws, and are easily removable ... I plan to take it out and cut holes when I know more about my speaker setup.

I have not finished the wood yet, or used wood filler yet - so I can still do *some* removing/switching of parts

Screws make it all very convenient.

In fact the CP piece that's there is a "test" one - I made a few copies and will be mounting the final one when I am happy with button placements, etc.
« Last Edit: July 12, 2007, 07:07:51 pm by ARTIFACT »

Dmod

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Re: ARTIFACT - Upright from scratch
« Reply #4 on: July 12, 2007, 07:12:42 pm »
Smoked plexi looks nice.  ;D

Where'd you find it?

What CAD tool did you use to plan your design?  Is it all Sketchup?
My Projects:
Suspended Animation Scratch-built Cab
Driveshaft Arcade Seat Platform

ARTIFACT

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Re: ARTIFACT - Upright from scratch
« Reply #5 on: July 12, 2007, 07:53:18 pm »
Sketchup!

I think I should update the BYOAC wiki... It seems to have been written BEFORE google bought sketchup and released a fully functional and unlimited FREE version... the only limitation it has is export/import from/to CAD applications... NOT a limitation to cabinet building at all :)

I have been using Sketchup for years... since around V1.
Right now I am just using the free version google recently released.

I highly recommend it, and would not be able to do any of this if I didn't have Sketchup.

ARTIFACT

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Re: ARTIFACT - Upright from scratch
« Reply #6 on: July 12, 2007, 08:02:28 pm »

danny_galaga

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Re: ARTIFACT - Upright from scratch
« Reply #7 on: July 13, 2007, 01:36:51 am »


great pics! but enough with the pics already, we wanna see wood!


ROUGHING UP THE SUSPECT SINCE 1981

ARTIFACT

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Re: ARTIFACT - Upright from scratch
« Reply #8 on: July 13, 2007, 02:31:36 am »


great pics! but enough with the pics already, we wanna see wood!

I'm not sure I understand :) ... there's wood on the pics (it's not all CAD drawings) ... if that's what you meant.
Thanks!

ARTIFACT

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Custom MALA layout!

Features:


. image of the ARTIFACT cabinet
. instructions (switch list, system, exit and select game)
. marquee of selected game
. video of selected game (specially re-encoded format + bitrate to optimize performance in MALA)
. simple and to the point, easy to read and use

NOT final "look", but functionally it's what I want. I'll tweak colors/look later.


Green Giant

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On your control panel, are you planning on adding coin inputs or pause.  Some hidden coin buttons are really useful as well as a pause button.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

ARTIFACT

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On your control panel, are you planning on adding coin inputs or pause.  Some hidden coin buttons are really useful as well as a pause button.

There will be a coin door and I'll hook up the Coin Return buttons to credits 1 and 2... IF I can find a small / compact solution for this (I don't need a full coin door/bucket/mech... just the coin return buttons :) any idea of what product / kind of coin door I should look for?)

I am using a Bluetooth Keyboard + Mouse combo for this cabinet, so going to the mala menu / going to windows / etc is SUPER easy just by grabbing the wireless mouse and right-clicking. I really like this bluetooth thing ... no drawer, less cables, less to worry about. Used on occasions to tweak settings and such.

A hidden pause is a good idea though, thanks!

(im also considering 2 pinball buttons on the sides)
« Last Edit: July 15, 2007, 11:35:32 am by ARTIFACT »

Green Giant

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IF I can find a small / compact solution for this (I don't need a full coin door/bucket/mech... just the coin return buttons :) any idea of what product / kind of coin door I should look for?)

Randy has this one covered. 

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=295

Just add some kind of metal face to look like a door.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

ARTIFACT

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OHH this rocks! thank you so much for this information...

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I found a small simple coin door to use on my driving cabinet since there was not a lot of room for a bigger normal sized one.  The picture looks crappy, but you can see the size to get an idea.   My memory is failing me and I am not home at the moment, so I will say that the door is about 10 inch tall and 7 inch wide.  I could be wrong though, but it is small and nice (and looks much better than the picture shows)

ARTIFACT

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Starting to put together some marquee CONCEPTS


Open bigger image in new window: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1131/838449366_e925519a78_o.png


« Last Edit: July 17, 2007, 11:41:51 am by ARTIFACT »

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How about some egyptian theme where you have an arcade machine in the center instead of King Tuts image (see link). The machine in the center of the marquee might look cool using the color scheme in the image to give it that 'Artifact' look. Just an idea.

http://www.suziemanley.com/wallpaper/images/j_king_tut.jpg
This plan is so perfect, it's retarded. -- Peter Family Guy

ARTIFACT

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thanks for the input!

My definition of the word "artifact" specifically in this context is this:

"This is a time capsule, an artifact found by a future civilization - a relic from the end of the 20th century"

:)

... hence the 80's look on the "artifact" sign/marquee

I know it's a bit "different" - that's how I envision it.

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The first silver looking marquee is very hard to read for me.  I believe it would look alot better if the actual letters were tilted about 45degrees towards to person viewing it rather than have the letters facing almost completely upwards.  Just a comment, feel free to ignore  it of course. 

ARTIFACT

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The first silver looking marquee is very hard to read for me.  I believe it would look alot better if the actual letters were tilted about 45degrees towards to person viewing it rather than have the letters facing almost completely upwards.  Just a comment, feel free to ignore  it of course. 

Yep indeed you are correct it's not 100% obvious/communicative... it's an homage to that game... Can't remember the name... "Block Something" :) ... this font is after that marquee I believe (BTW I did not create the font).

To me it's part of the "cheesy" side of this project / 80's logos .................... :-)

I like the "feel" of this one, but I am definitely on the early stages here, and will create several iterations.

Thanks for all the input! I'll keep you all posted. GO BYOAC!

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Everything looks great so far!  Keep up the good work.

I really like the throw-back design, with staying away from the CP box design.  Its refreshing to see.

-Stobe

ARTIFACT

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BYOAC rules! You guys rule. Thank you for the support and input.
I have a couple of questions...

#1 - OK... regarding casters / feet ... what do you suggest I use?

I don't want the plywood to explode everytime I drag the cabinet a few inches here or there...
I am not planning to move it around often, but it seems natural to at least screw some (wide) rubber feet under it.


#1 - Speakers-wise

The 27" SONY Trinitron as very good sound already... it's all hooked up, and believe it or not sounds just fine thru the plexi-glass and bezel (!)... I am contemplating either:
. taking apart the TV to take out and extend the existing TV speakers and reposition "where they should be" under the marquee (jigsaw "lines" slots, etc)
. (or) plugging some cheap PC Speakers to the PC (and decase the volume knob, speakers, jigsaw speaker line openings, etc)
. (or) leaving it as it is and just use the TV remote to control the volume

The third solution is of course the easiest (no work at all) ... I am on the fence on this one!!! would this be a "proper" arcade cabinet with the TV speakers behind the plexi? (sounds weird... but it sounds OK!!)


thanks in advance for your input.

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I am new to all of this BYOAC stuff, loving it so far, started designing my plans a few weeks ago, redesigned a few times to make sure, and spent about 4 "full" days on building so far (a few hours here and there when I find the time).
... a LOT more coming up in the next few days! STAY TUNED! :)

Hey Artifact,
pretty good start for a newbie!!!
Well documented.

Can't wait to see the final cab!!!

Good luck...

Jay  :cheers:

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(please check my questions a couple of posts above!!! ... THANKS)


More pics!

TV "snug" on my frame; dedicated computer; bluetooth receptor (mouse/kb/anything bluetooth); power supply outlet
(I plan to wire up a switch to power up the cab + install a female computer power outlet to easily remove the power cable when transporting)


Profile detials of CP / screen / marquee area ... look at these curves :)
I got the T-Molding in the mail, but I need to buy a 1/16" slot cutting bit still... I imagine that I'll install the molding AFTER I stain and finish the cabinet


Marquee box close-up - I'll definitely add some screws on this tube light unit ... Velcro is great, but does NOT hold "flat".
Although I did make a wood surface all around the marquee opening, I am going to order "proper" marquee retainers, and won't really need the side surfaces.


Shot of CP top ... 28" x 8 1/2"


Under the CP ... this board is held using VELCRO strips for easy access. 2 pics of it (closed, opened).
Open, this gives me about 8 x 28 inches of space to troubleshoot CP connections



One more "overview" shot of the cab, with bezel, plexiglass in place. BTW I used velcro for the plexi-glass, but I plan to add a thin plywood strip behind the top, across, to support it even more snug/flat... this Velcro stuff doesn't hold evenly.

I am thinking of shortening the depth of the cab... it's a whopping 38" right now and I could take out ~3" by cutting the back "straight" (see the pointy part in the far back of the side) ... I'm a bit torn on this one, as I like the current dramatic retro look (again, to "me"). Since this is going in the family den, I don't want the cab to be too deep.



I saw a beautiful SNK MVS NEO GEO cab the other day ... it made me want to stain my cab all red :) (I used nice birch plywood though, so it wouldn't be 100% opaque ... show the wood grain as well as being close to this red, if that's possible) ... the room where the cab is going is already red-ish, so I need to make sure it looks okay there :)

(one like this ... i found this pic online)
« Last Edit: July 21, 2007, 10:00:39 pm by ARTIFACT »

Stobe

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#1 - OK... regarding casters / feet ... what do you suggest I use?

I don't want the plywood to explode everytime I drag the cabinet a few inches here or there...
I am not planning to move it around often, but it seems natural to at least screw some (wide) rubber feet under it.

I would at least put on some heavy duty leg levelers if you didn't want to use castors.  The you would at least have nice level points to use some easy-movers or something if you needed to (I imagine you cab is going to be heavy!).

-Stobe

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How about 2 casters in the back (to roll while tilting the cab)? I've seen that on some cabs... + 4 or 5 rubber "Feet" under.
I don't know about levelers (the metal ones that screw up and down) ... the cab will be in the family den, which is level/flat already and I just want to stabilize the cab and protect the bottom. I don't know if this makes sense or not. Seems like a good plan.

YES my cab is HEA-VY!!! this 3/4" birch plywood is something else weigh-wise! makes me wish I used MDF or even particle + laminate (not as nice looking though!)

... also what's up with SONY 27" Trinitron TVs? they are SO HEAVY even compared to other 27" tubes!!



At least I made the cab to allow for the TV to be removed easily (1 pushes it from the back, 1 picks it up from the front) so the cab wood itself is OK to transport by itself.


(thanks for the input!)
« Last Edit: July 19, 2007, 01:22:42 pm by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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(minor update)

I ordered my controls and marquee retainers (Divemaster!) + t-molding slot cutter bit (from t-molding.com) today!!!

2 x Mag Stick Plus
2 x Red Ball stick upgrade
Plenty of buttons + IPAC2 encoder

I had to tell someone  :cheers: ... I should get it in about a week ...
time to start finalizing my CP design (I have a few scrap tops to practice on)

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my cabinet has two "rollers" on the back and levelers on the front..you just tilt the cabinet back to roll it. it works pretty well like that, plus you dont have to worry about it moving around on it's own.

looking good so far..keep us posted
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#1 - OK... regarding casters / feet ... what do you suggest I use?
I'd also vote for the 2 casters on the back.  My first conversion cab had them.  I put them on the front end of my driving cab (although it is extremely heavy and a pain to lift), and they are on a carcuss I have in the garage.  It alleviates the need for a hand truck.  You can pick up a couple of wheels at your local hardware store for around $5 to $7 each.  They mount on the back surface, about 1/8" above ground level.  If you put them a few inches in from the edge, they are more concealed.


#1 - Speakers-wise
If it were me, I'd avoid the sound from the TV all together.  You can pick up a small set of amplified PC speakers from Goodwill for about $5.  If you want a little more punch, for around $30 you can get a decent 2.1 speaker set.  It is also VERY convenient to have the volume knob somewhere towards the front of the cab.  On my first cab, I put it behind the coin door.  This hid the knob, but required a bit more time to get to.  I eventually moved it to the top right corner of the CP.  Some people are really going for the original look, and hide the knob.  I was more concerned about functionality.  You're call.

What are you going to do about the front edge of the CP?  Wrap around sticker material, t-molding, or other?

Great progress so far.


ARTIFACT

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you guys all rock thank you ( I keep saying this I know, but I mean it)

SO

I am going to de-case some old PC speakers (decent sound though), and do this the "right way" :)
I will extend a volume knob and headphone jacks (!) to a convenient place on the cab.

For the front of the CP, I kind of like the rounded / routed wood edge as it is (although the one pictured is a scrap top to do tests on) ... I am not 100% sure on this one yet - input is welcome.

I will go for the 4 or 5 rubber feet + 2 back casters (thanks for the detailed measurements above!)

Stay tuned :)

ARTIFACT

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pictures of speaker de-casing :)




Just an idea of the location for the speakers (they are not mounted yet)


I will cut out thin strips in the plywood as speaker grill.

I am going to need a longer volume knob, to put it through the 3/4" panel and reach the circuit board.
« Last Edit: July 21, 2007, 01:25:15 am by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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I just bought some heavy duty casters (I believe they are rated for 175 lbs each) - as suggested above (thanks) I will mount them BEHIND the cab toward the floor - a few inches from the edge to hide them...

To transport the cab, just tilt it back a bit and ROLL! (... remove the TV first! OUCH that thing is HEAVY :))

I need heavy duty rubber blocks/feet to screw at the bottom (5 of them)- the guy at home depot told me about a store that carries a good choice of them... for another day.

I also got myself:

. a standard electrical switch
. a soldering iron to connect the speakers to the amplifier circuit board (+ potentially some of my power wires/switches)
. some more velcro... always need some velcro around

Voila... As usual I'll post pics as I make progress...  :cheers:




Stay tuned!

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Progress Report:

. re-soldered speakers and amplifier wires to circuit board ... I had to cut all the wires to de-case properly (see pics above)

. put speakers in cab to test them ... THEY STILL WORK (LOL)


. Updated the design of my Control Panel:
---- Button placement more "ergonomic"
---- Modeled my joysticks in 3D (Mag Stick PLUS) ... the previous CAD drawings showed J-Sticks

Some preview plans of my CP with Mag Stick PLUS joysticks (artwork not shown, cab colors not final )


« Last Edit: July 23, 2007, 02:01:07 pm by ARTIFACT »

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You should put some kind of enclosure on those speakers - they will sound even worse than before they were taken out...

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You should put some kind of enclosure on those speakers - they will sound even worse than before they were taken out...

To tell the truth, you don't even have to use the pc speakers. The main thing you need is the amp and controls. Use better speakers, and match ohms if possible...but not completely neccessary.

ARTIFACT

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good ideas guys, thanks

I'll play with my options and keep the thread updated :)

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Wow.. that's a very handsome cab....


Yet another cab to make me rethink my entire direction, lol...


Great work!

Progress Rate:  Moderate      ||      Threads:  Cabinet  |  Art  |  MaLa Layout
XBL: OrganicJerk  |  PSN: OrganicJerk

urbecrisch

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I recommend a coin door on your CAB cause it really gives you (well at least me) some nostalgia every so often when you drop in some quarters to play a game.  Also it would be super easy to install since you have a fresh CAB with no coin door cutout to try and match with a working mech.

I am going to need a longer volume knob, to put it through the 3/4" panel and reach the circuit board.

Also, if you haven't drilled your volume knob hole yet, you can hide your volume control behind the coin door like I did.  This way you won't have a "knob" sticking down from your speaker panel and you can get to it whenever needed via the coin door.  I installed mine and it works out great.  I rarely need to go inside to adjust the volume cause you can control some of the "loud" games in the in-game setup menu (Mame F3 key).  Here's some PICS to show my volume control.

ARTIFACT

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Very interesting! thanks for the info and pictures.

ARTIFACT

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Wow.. that's a very handsome cab....
Yet another cab to make me rethink my entire direction, lol...
Great work!

Oh! thank you so much for the kind words  :applaud:

ARTIFACT

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ALL pictures displayed in these posts are updated!

They used to appear "jaggy" due to some code problems - Saint fixed the problems after I reported them in the "Forum Discussion" section.

 :applaud:

Now my cuts look smooth :D

ARTIFACT

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Got my controls from Divemaster (I recommend doing business with him)  :applaud:


Unfortunately I just realized how short of a throw the MAG STICK PLUS joysticks have... I posted a new thread about it in the main forum to ask for input.

Pushbuttons feel really nice! This is my first arcade project, so I am learning and discovering as I go.


Next I will be doing cardboard tests/templates of my CP.

stay tuned

theCoder

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Got my controls from Divemaster...
After you do your cardboard CP layout, you will want to avoid the temptation to layout and cut your control panel.  Your next step should be with your artwork.  Some people (er, uh, not me of course) have found out the hard way that it is hard to get your printed artwork to line up exactly with existing holes in wood.  Things line up MUCH better when you make small centering marks in your final artwork, punch center holes through the artwork to the wood, then cut your holes.  You are more likely to get the artwork matched up with your controls that way.  I'm not sure if you found that in your research, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to mention it at this point.

Great progress.

bfauska

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That is also a great way to make sure you end up getting artwork.  I have assembled several CPs for my cabinet and I don't mind the idea of replacing the one I have with a new one cut to fit the artwork, my problem is that the cabinet is now playable w/o art.  I think cabinets that are playable before they are "finished" tend to stay that way sometimes, I know mine seems to.

ARTIFACT

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theCoder:

hey thank you a ton for your great advice - as I said I'm totally new to all of this and although I think my design and planning went very well (no bad cut or measurement to report!), as well as my cabinet construction, I have plenty left to do and many newbie mistakes could happen (see my thread about my order of Mag Stick PLUS sticks...).


bfauska:

Totally! In fact, beside the fact that I don't have yet all the pieces / tools I need (slot cutting bit is on its way), I play my cabinet a lot already, just with an X-Arcade 2 Player unit sitting on top of my CP board (!) ... it would be very easy for me to think it's "done"

ARTIFACT

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Just a quick pic of my cab with an X-Arcade stick sitting on future CP top, "testing" my cab :)
I am thinking to just put it in the closet (the X-Arcade) to FORCE myself to move forward with my construction :) ... as bfauska said, it's hard to make progress when the menu is there asking you to play "just one last SF2 game..." LOL




So far my son and I are enjoying these A LOT:

Ms Pac Man
Dig Dug
Donkey Kong
Baluba-louk no Densetsu - go try that one!


I personally love to play

SF2
Super SF2
Final Fight :) ... what other similar games do you like?
DoDonPatchi
Bomb Jack


The more I see pics of beautifully painted and colorful Ms PacMan, and others, the more I want to paint mine like that instead of staining the wood

theCoder

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Ripoff is a great 2 player game.  You have to work as a team.  Very old, but very entertaining.

ARTIFACT

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i'll make sure to check it out thanks!


MrQuan

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Your cab is looking very nice!  I don't usually like woodgrain cabs with a few exceptions, yours being one of them (lowboys are another ;D).  Nice documentation.  You're motivating me to finish my own upright mame cab :cheers:

ARTIFACT

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You know, I am not 100% sure I'll keep the wood grain... I know that "covering" that nice Birch wood is heresy to some, but now I am almost certain I'll prime that baby and give it the paint look with several colors

Either a nintendo-themed decoration, or a mix of various arcade favorites of mine ... Something with stripes and stuff :)

I am not touching any paint/prime/brushes/stickers until I am SURE of what I want to do with it look-wise

SO right now I am planning things on the computer... I will post concepts as I get something decent together. I don't want to rush this...


Oh BTW quick update:

on the whole casters/feet thing ... I got 4 casters (2 fixed + 2 swivels w/ locks). They are 3" in height. That'll make my CP the perfect height (35" + 3" = 38" :) ) and will make it easy to move around. The 2 locked casters should stop the cab from moving, and the plywood will be protected.

There is going to be 6 casters on my cab (!) ... those 4 I described above + 2 BEHIND

the casters behind are fixed (also 3") and will be perfect to drag the cab around by tilting it backward gently. I really want to make my cab ready for moving around the house / rooms if necessary. Each of these casters are rated to sustain 175 pounds. Price-wise it was around $5 each.

On my way to model all this in 3D :D (it helped a TON with the cutting / measurements... again no bad cut / error to report so far and this is my 1st cab).

Stay tuned!
« Last Edit: July 30, 2007, 02:31:13 am by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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ahah ... modeled the FIXED CASTER :)

that was a fun shape to model.






... and the swivel caster

also fun to model - not as "accurate" as the fixed caster (some funky metal curves on this one!), but measurements are still all exact




Why am I modeling these things like that? ... because I love to plan in advance... see how it will look at certain angles (rotating around the CAD scene), how all the elements will connect. To me this was VITAL in the way the base cabinet was built.

Next I placed these casters on the cabinet in the CAD scene and find the best placements..

(overview)


Below: simulating "human vision" (angle / height of average person walking by + using the cabinet):



(below: I placed the casters to avoid any contact with the floor when tilting the cabinet back ... see the flat angle between under & back casters is away from the plywood)



... Next? ... Put the casters on the cabinet "for real" :)
« Last Edit: July 30, 2007, 02:37:23 am by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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one more model for the road... :)

CHERRY PUSHBUTTON MICROSWITCH!

This one is going to be handy when I plan my CP in details.





AcidArmitage

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you've got some serious "planning ahead" skills

MaMeNnO

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Now that's planning! Looks pretty good.

I think you forgot to model the screws... :laugh2:

MrQuan

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I put castors on the back like you, makes moving it a bit easier but it's still heavy as all hell.  On the base I have these teflon carpet saver disc thingies :)

Anyways, nice planning.  Looks like an Ikea ad ;D

ARTIFACT

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hahaha :-)

yes i love doing this stuff...

i designed the cab so the TV (and computer + back panel) can be removed before moving it - makes it quite light because of t

ARTIFACT

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Next model I made:

Happ Pushbutton
(+ my cherry microswitch)

This will be great to have when planning my CP in details... I can see EXACTLY where the buttons will sit inside the box... where the connectors stick out, etc.



6 buttons configuration ... rotated to allow cherries to have space:
« Last Edit: July 31, 2007, 01:53:00 am by ARTIFACT »

mcfreak

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Man, those models would be great examples for the wiki...  What the hell is a "Cherry Microswitch"??  Well, here is a model.  ;) :notworthy:

theCoder

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For the casters on the back side, I'd recommend cutting off the metal on the bottom side.  You can then mount the wheel closer to the ground.  This will get the weight on the wheels earlier, and allow you to position it so ALL of the weight is on the wheels instead of your forearms when you move it.  In the picture below, the casters are not yet mounted, but you see the metal removed on one side. 

ARTIFACT

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Man, those models would be great examples for the wiki...  What the hell is a "Cherry Microswitch"??  Well, here is a model.  ;) :notworthy:

Good idea :)


theCoder: Interesting! How do you mount the casters behind if the metal plate is cut, where the screw holes are located? I see that 2 of the 4 screw holes are still present, but I wounldn't trust the original weight rating of the casters with only half the screws present. Are you going to drill 2 additional holes by removing the wheel to give you acess under it?  Thanks!
« Last Edit: July 31, 2007, 12:17:42 pm by ARTIFACT »

Loki

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Looks awesome :)
I also love your sketchup models... wish I was that good :(
Don't eat yellow snow.

ARTIFACT

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Update!

I got a complete coin door for from a friend!

The details about it:

. It is a Canadian coin door ($1 and $2 coins)
. It comes with a set of spare pieces for a US coin door (door plate + coin mechs + buttons)


... I am going to have to figure out how to "combine" these - see if the screws line up (my friend mentioned that the Canadian door may not be standard, not 100% sure) in order to get a fully working US coin door.

Otherwise I'll get a bunch of canadian coins :) ... and just use those with my cab...


I'll model THAT next I guess ;)
« Last Edit: July 31, 2007, 06:31:58 pm by ARTIFACT »

mountain

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Nice cabinet Artifact! I really like the design.

You should upload the models of the buttons and switches to the Sketchup 3D Warehouse. I imagine a lot of us here could put them to good use.  :cheers:

theCoder

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How do you mount the casters behind if the metal plate is cut, where the screw holes are located? I see that 2 of the 4 screw holes are still present, but I wounldn't trust the original weight rating of the casters with only half the screws present. Are you going to drill 2 additional holes by removing the wheel to give you acess under it?  Thanks!
I drilled one additional hole in the center on the side that was cut off.  I used the largest diameter lag bolts I could get through the holes.  I think they were 3/8" diameter if memory serves me.  The wood behind it was thick, around 2".  They could handle a drop from the back of a truck.  No worries about the strength.

ARTIFACT

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I drilled one additional hole in the center on the side that was cut off.  I used the largest diameter lag bolts I could get through the holes.  I think they were 3/8" diameter if memory serves me.  The wood behind it was thick, around 2".  They could handle a drop from the back of a truck.  No worries about the strength.

Great, thanks for the info. I'll keep this in mind. I am not sure how to cut the side of the caster though - that's some tough metal!! Just a hand metal hack-saw?

UPDATE - Good news about the coin door + parts my friend gave me :applaud:
I removed the canadian coin door out of the frame/box
I mounted the US coin door (spare part my friend gave me) to the canadian frame/box - it fit fine!
I assembled the 2 coin mechs my friend gave me into the US coin door

The coin mechs "kind of work" - your input / advice is welcome here:
. one of the mechs always get the coin stuck in the beginning of the loop
. one of the mechs gets the coin stuch half of the time (and drops the coin successfully otherwise)
DO I NEED TO TAKE APART THE MECHS AND "CLEAN" THEM? OIL THEM? ANY ADVICE? I DONT WANT TO LOOSE A PIECE/SPRING IN THE PROCESS

Issue with space + the coin box:
I didn't realize how tall the coin door assembly is... and how deep the coin box is... my wood frame (2x4 studs) is in the way horizontally toward the bottom of my cab. In order to make it work, I will have to make a new box that is not as tall... Probably out of plywood (easy).

And of course, some pictures :)

US Coin Mechs (need some cleaning to improve?) ... one of them has a date "inspected March 17th 1989" ;D


Canadian Door Frame/Box + US Coin Door + US Coin mechs 



Since I am taking apart my cabinet to get ready for painting / slot cutting / etc ... here is a picture of my make-shift Bezel (foam core sheets) I owe you guys.
It's not "perfect" but looks fine especially with the gray smoked plexi-glass.
« Last Edit: August 01, 2007, 02:32:55 am by ARTIFACT »

superbigjay

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Since I am taking apart my cabinet to get ready for painting / slot cutting / etc ... here is a picture of my make-shift Bezel (foam core sheets) I owe you guys.
It's not "perfect" but looks fine especially with the gray smoked plexi-glass.

I love that foam idea!!!
I'm gonne use it in my cab!!! 

Jay:cheers:

ARTIFACT

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:) let me warn you about a few things I found out:

. The only problem is that the TV is *huge* (27" Sony Trinitron)
. so I needed 2 foam core sheets to cover it (well most of it got covered with 1, but 3 inches at the top required a strip from a second sheet)
. foam core sheets do NOT "bend" ... older Sony Trinitron TVs are "curved" horizontally
. to mount the foam core sheets on the TV front, I used velcro strips
. velcro strips are "OKAY" ... the adhesive is not that strong, and the bezel pulls away from the TV :(
. I plan to use thin, long strips of plywood on the sides, perhaps velcro THOSE to the inside of the cab (not sure yet) instead of using velcro on the bezel <> TV itself

If I were to redo the bezel (and I may), I would use PLASTIC SHEETS ... Not sure the name, but I saw them for $4 at the plastic store where I got my plexiglass from... It was a couple of days AFTER I had done the foam-core bezel... Advantages: they bend fine (won't "snap" away from the TV), and they are BIG (1 sheet would cover the TV), they look like corners could be "shaped" by forcing (like cardboard/paper)

Knievel

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Don't know what I like more, that cabinet or the cool renderings. ;D Love the shape!

Wish I could whip up sketches like that. Tried that program once and it wasn't coming to me as quickly as I'd hoped.

ARTIFACT

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Knievel, just so you know you are the hero of a whole generation (or two)! Your projects are very inspiring and I love how you finish your cabinet looks.

Thank you for dropping by my project thread and checking out my design + progress.

Some sketchup tips:
. USE GROUPS! Without grouping, you'll always destroy your shapes by mistake. Even 1 shape should be grouped to "solidify" it
. USE COMPONENTS! Built something you want to reuse (button, etc)? Right click > Make component
. TYPE MEASUREMENTS IN EVERY TIME YOU DO SOMETHING ... drew a plywood base square? Type "8', 4'" (ENTER) and it will resize to that measurement... Extruded the width of the plywood base? Type "3/4" (ENTER) and it will be exactly 3/4" extruded

I hope this helps :)

Gatsu

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Wow man. That cabinet looks amazing.

Since 3rd Strike is compatible with Mame now...I think I may convert my arcade console into a full cabinet again. muharharhar!

Do you think I could maybe snag a copy of your building plans from you? If not thats cool. I just really like the layout and the size of it is just right. Not too big. Not too small.

ARTIFACT

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Hi there,

Feel free to use the images I posted in the original post (not super complete, but you can see the inside frame and overall structure). I am still tweaking the model and plans (will shave off 3" in the back - will make it flat, etc) so I'd like to wait a bit before posting more details about the plans.

I'm glad you like it! I hope to make it look great artwork-wise... I am 99% sure I'll cover that wood with paint (I know, I know...)
« Last Edit: August 01, 2007, 01:40:24 pm by ARTIFACT »

Gatsu

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cool thanky. I'll make sure once I get it started you get credit for the plans and design.  :cheers:

Knievel

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Hey thanks, and thanks for the Sketchup tips.

Just taking a better look at your pictures and it looks like you secured your sides by driving screws though them. In this case I think you would be better off going with your new plan of painting the cabinet. Getting wood filler to stain the same color as your wood is tricky business.

If you were to stain it I would go with an opaque stain which hides most of the grain and imperfections.  ;)

ARTIFACT

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I was planning to be "ok" with having visible screw locations - small circles of "filler" - even with a different shade (to me it's ok)
but yes I think I'll paint instead. It seems more and more "authentic" to go this way visually anyway.

Please read my questions above and let me know if you have input for me (coin mechs)
« Last Edit: August 01, 2007, 11:25:13 pm by ARTIFACT »

Knievel

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Sorry, I don't know much about coin mechs. Only used a coin door a few times and they were already functional.

I can set you up with some Canadian coins if you want. :)

ARTIFACT

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nonono I got that figured out... The spare parts my friend gave me with the canadian door were US-based and I combined them all to have a 100% US quarters coin door.

My coin mech issue is that coins sometime get stuck, and one of them either get coins stuck or drops it in the coin return.
I believe it is because these are old mechs and they need some cleaning - that's the part I need input on :)

Beside its ok if you don't know :) ... I am asking everyone on BYOAC

Jimbo

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Just taking a better look at your pictures and it looks like you secured your sides by driving screws though them. In this case I think you would be better off going with your new plan of painting the cabinet. Getting wood filler to stain the same color as your wood is tricky business.

If you were to stain it I would go with an opaque stain which hides most of the grain and imperfections.  ;)

You can get a special Filler Gel that you mix with very fine wood/sawdust, which keeps the colour close to that of the wood, and is stainable... I have the URL of somewhere in the UK that sells this product (they can probably ship abroad).  Let me know if you want it :)

Jimbo

Green Giant

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nonono I got that figured out... The spare parts my friend gave me with the canadian door were US-based and I combined them all to have a 100% US quarters coin door.

My coin mech issue is that coins sometime get stuck, and one of them either get coins stuck or drops it in the coin return.
I believe it is because these are old mechs and they need some cleaning - that's the part I need input on :)

Beside its ok if you don't know :) ... I am asking everyone on BYOAC

Have you tried giving them a WD40 bath.  When I got my coin door, the mechs looked much worse than yours and the didn't really work.  Looked at it a little bit and realized some metal was getting in the way.  Grabbed some pliers and bent it out of the way.  I don't really know what it was there for cause they work great now.

Basically you will just have to follow the coins with your eyes looking for the obstructions.  WD40 should help loosening up any dirt in there.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

Green Giant

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Don't know what I like more, that cabinet or the cool renderings. ;D Love the shape!

Wish I could whip up sketches like that. Tried that program once and it wasn't coming to me as quickly as I'd hoped.

Knievel, just keep away from the sketchup program.  You already make the rest of us look like 4 year olds trying to build cabs.  If you made yours better it would just make the rest of us even more depressed.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

ARTIFACT

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thx for all the great input guys

wd40 it is then!

BLah247

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That looks really nice so far man.  Good luck with the rest of your build.

ARTIFACT

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thanks

I have another thread about the coin mechs getting stuck

WD40 is *NOT* ok based on the comments I read there... it's confusing!!! :)

ARTIFACT

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ok i spent some time last night learning how mechs are put together, and essentially they are full of dirt / solid dust - not the kind you can wipe clean or blow (i aleady did that) and they need to be WASHED to remove the dirt... i  am not sure what product / solution to use.


ARTIFACT

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i returned the 2 mag stick plus and am ordering 2 U360 instead.

i love the way the U360 switches modes automatically in Mala... and the throw seems more suitable with fighters than the mag stick's very short throw. I should have done more research before ordering controls.

i am keeping the IPAC2, this way I am not limited to the 8 connectors per U360... i may add pinball buttons, more admin buttons,etc.. you never know.

i started to play around with some side art concepts... i may attempt to paint them myself (big blocks/stripes of colors) using masking tape.. not sure yet (those custom vinyl prints are expensive!). if i am happy with some concepts i'll post images here.

thanks for all the encouragements ;)

stay tuned

ARTIFACT

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**** UPDATE ****

. modified the profile of the cab:
---- removed the "fin" (cut straight up from base)
---- made the back steeper
---- reduce depth by 3.5 inches!!

. all 6 casters are mounted!! (bolts)


Pics!

Casters mounted:


(I did not "cut" the caster to get it lower to the ground... It is fine like this, I can transfer all the weight instantly between the bottom casters and the ones behind... in fact it is on 4 wheels when I tip it back because of this... very cool and comfortable... the cab feels LIGHT now!)


With casters behind and at the bottom, it is easy to lay the cab down now! PHEW! it was impossible before without damaging the plywood  :applaud:



Improved (and shorter) profile (compare with pics in original post)!



... last but not least ... the money shot  ;D ;D ;D
« Last Edit: August 05, 2007, 01:52:10 am by ARTIFACT »

Zero_Hour

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THat is looking very nice indeed. Love the 6 casters idea.  :cheers:
"Paradise, is exactly like where you are right now - only much, MUCH better." -Laurie Anderson

mcfreak

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Very impressive.  Love the attention to detail and the wheels on the back... Great Idea!

ARTIFACT

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I made some progress today in the back of the cab:

. added a board to sandwich the screen plexiglass (velcro wasn't cutting it) ... this also fills in the gap at the top between the plexiglass and the flat bezel

. added supports to mount the big back roof panel


Will post pics later
« Last Edit: August 05, 2007, 03:41:07 pm by ARTIFACT »

The Chugnut

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Been watching this project since the first post.

Incredible amount of detail has gone into the planning!  :notworthy:
You're pretty slick with the old Sketch Up.

Can't wait to see the end result!

ARTIFACT

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Thank you thank you! This project would not have been possible without all the great information here on BYOAC. I am very thankful to be a part of this wonderful community.

****************   UPDATE ********************

. The roof back is mounted!
. Plexiglass back support mounted!

I still need to sand everything like crazy to tame those remaining curve details, but the project is coming together very well :)


PICS!

Screen plexiglass "sandwich" board mounted:



Roof Back Panel mounted:


Front view w/ details of the above progress:



... I think I'm done cutting large pieces of wood! :)
To summarize this is what's left to do:

. coin door mounting
. route slot cut for T-Molding
. Control Panel planning (finalize where buttons are, test on a scrap piece, etc)
. artwork design & planning
. wood fill :) ... lots of it! (lots of tiny 1/16 ~ 1/32 gaps here and there ... that's what wood fill is for)
. sand / prime / paint / etc
. Put t-molding on cabinet
. Put marquee retainers and marquee on
. Wire computer / TV / Power back up
. final CP holes for sticks + buttons + wiring
« Last Edit: August 05, 2007, 11:45:06 pm by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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********** UPDATE *************

. Coin door hole is cut
. Coin door is mounted and fits!

(You can see my wood frame is in the way of the coin "box" though - oups - so I'll build a smaller plywood box that fits)

(took it back out after I took the pics - lots of sanding/fill/prime is what's next)


PICS:







« Last Edit: August 07, 2007, 12:22:24 am by ARTIFACT »

Green Giant

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Looks great so far. 

How is the weight using that plywood?  I didn't notice alot of inside bracing which would cut down the weight, is there a frame inside?

I was wondering how you are planning on doing that control panel.  It looks like it is already mounted in there.  Does the top piece come out of the box easily?  Looks like the bottom and front are pretty permanent.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

ARTIFACT

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check out my first post in this thread, there is a wood frame inside (VERY sturdy) and I have posted the plans

The cab is HEAVY  :) ... but ever since my "6 casters system" is installed, the cab feels very light... I just didn't feel comfortable using materials such as MDF  (perhaps next time - this is my first cab and I went for birch)

I can lay it on its back side instantly, and push it around the workshop to work on it.

You can see that it's open under the CP at the moment (panel there is mounted using velcro, for now, and will preserve the screw locations in case I need to take it out in the future).
I can do all my connections from there, and access is even easier when tilting the cab on its back.

I am planning to do some tests (cardboards, then another plywood CP like the one that's mounted) before I am 100% sure of where the control holes go, etc.
« Last Edit: August 07, 2007, 06:40:49 am by ARTIFACT »

KenToad

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All I can say is, Wow.  Thank you for taking the time to make this thread into a field of dreams for the rest of us. 

Keep the pics and helpful info coming. 

 :cheers:
KenToad
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ARTIFACT

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You're welcome and THANK YOU for the kind words!!

You know... I am new to woodworking altogether... I am learning as I go.
This is not only my first arcade cabinet project (still figuring out the difference between joysticks, etc), it is also one of my first construction projects altogether.

***** UPDATE *****

Speaker Grilles Cut!
I cut them bigger than my speakers are, as I am pretty sure I'll put in better / bigger speakers at one point.



T-Molding Slot CUT!
This was a NIGHTMARE - you know why? As I said I am learning: I had mounted the blade UPSIDE DOWN (!) and messed things up a bit half way thru the 1st side.
After flipping it correctly, it cut thru the second side like butter :) ... it should be OK.
Another thing is that it is hard to slot cut dead center! it is always either a bit toward one side or the other... no matter how much measurement I set on the router. Oh well. Hopefully it won't stick out too much.



No overview picture yet - I need to put it back together... Stay tuned :)

ARTIFACT

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Planning my CP layout

I posted a thread about it here with lots of questions :) ... thanks for your help!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=69847.msg713713#msg713713


Overview (hidden lines):

CLICK HERE FOR LARGE VERSION

Overview (x-ray):

CLICK HERE FOR LARGE VERSION
« Last Edit: August 08, 2007, 07:31:44 pm by ARTIFACT »

KenToad

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You can mount the joysticks so that their bases are vertically oriented and give yourself a little more room to squeeze the buttons in closer to the joystick, or to put in a "Neo Geo" button.  Also, I didn't check out the link, but didn't anyone mention that it's really not cool to put the exit button anywhere close to the top of the CP?   Guests and children tend to haphazardly whack any button that is visible.  :o

As for the T-molding.  What I do is save a spare piece of the material to be routed and a few small pieces of the T-molding.  Then, you can rout several times and test fit the T-molding until it's "perfect" before actually slotting up your project.

And, yup, it's still looking good.   :cheers:
Just Say No to Partially Hydrogenated Oil  www.bantransfats.com

ARTIFACT

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you are the best! great info
thank you

i dont think i understand what you described about routing piece by piece. if you can please explain again :) thx!

ill update when i get a chance

KenToad

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Well, my advice about routing is meant for next time, since you already did the routing.  And, it looks good, I might add.  With my project, I just kept a scrap of MDF aside and I would eyeball adjust the depth of the router bit, rout a small section, then pound an inch or so of T-molding in there to test fit.  I did that probably about 5 times before I was satisfied that it was as good as I was going to get it and that the T-molding wouldn't hang over the edge.  After that, I routed the two sides of my box with the router bit already set.  The problem with just measuring for the center is that the T-molding itself may not have the tongue part of the molding in the exact center, not to mention that it's a pain to have to account for the size of the slot itself when measuring for the center and setting the depth of the bit.  Also, make sure you use a rubber mallet or something similar when you gently pound in the T-molding.  The slot makes the wood relatively crushable.

As for the other advice, that's pretty standard advice around here, usually one of the first constructive comments made about a particular CP layout.

Keep it up. 

 :cheers:
Just Say No to Partially Hydrogenated Oil  www.bantransfats.com

ARTIFACT

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thanks i got it this tme :)

ok yes as they say practice makes perfect...next time will be better :)

what a fun project...

ARTIFACT

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**** UPDATE ****

. Fixed some screws that needed some counter-sink treatment

. Started to fill all the gaps and counter-sink screws with wood fill

. Did some work on the marquee + CPO artwork ... preview of marquee below (background is all custom drawn from scratch :) ... NOT a screenshot)
CPO will be VERY SIMPLE with the landscape orange/yellow "bands" (stripes) ala Space Harrier - bleeding on the front panel of the CP box as well
(still tweaking things of course, but getting close to my liking)

CLICK HERE FOR LARGER VERSION

. Updated CP layout, incorporating feedback - see exit/menu button away in the left corner, and rotated joysticks to save space - keeping the 2x2 mounts, I don't need to be THAT close from the edge

Hidden Lines:

CLICK HERE FOR LARGE VERSION

X-Ray:

CLICK HERE FOR LARGE VERSION

Perspective view (ignore the innacurate stick tops :) )

CLICK HERE FOR LARGE VERSION


I *really* need the dimensions for the Tornado Spinner ... I am worried that the guts of it under the CP are too large to fit where I want it.
Any owner of htat spinner around? Mind measuring it or attaching a PDF spec of it? THANKS
« Last Edit: August 09, 2007, 02:57:47 am by ARTIFACT »

Austin.Wolff

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Lookin' good man.

Zero_Hour

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That Marquee is outstanding, the cab is looking sweet, and you Sketchup skills seem to be without limit. Hope I do half as good when I start pulling out the power tools.  :notworthy:
"Paradise, is exactly like where you are right now - only much, MUCH better." -Laurie Anderson

ARTIFACT

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THANK YOU so much Zero_Hour!!! :)

You guys are the best, and I am really impressed by the BYOAC community... the best online community I've ever seen.

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Why not go with the GroovyGameGear TT2 spinner? It fits in a standard button hole...

ARTIFACT

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i am ordering from divemaster127 and he said the ggg tt2 'feels cheap'

i was followng his advice to go with the tornado spinner ... doesnt the tornado spinner seem much more 'substantial' i its mecanism though?

i havent touched or seen eitherone so i don't mind ordering one over the other.

thanks for you input

ARTIFACT

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quick design change:

. made the CP top removable (mount it with bolts, accessible thru the back of the cab

. mounted the CP box bottom (under) permanently (it was removable before)


this new design makes more sense:

. i can now independetly finish the cabinet without having to get the CP 'right away'

. i can actually use the router to mount my trackball (etc.) - i realized that it wouldn't fit acessing from below :)

. i wn't have to work 'upside down' when wiring or troubleshooting my controls :)

no photos yet - posting this from my phone - wil do later today.


.. now back to sanding + 2nd wood fill pass + seal CP bottom w/ wood fill

this is the life :)
thanks again everyone here

ARTIFACT

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done ... waiting for wood fill to dry now ... COME ON FASTER!!! :)


How would man survive without wood fill BTW? ... I love this stuff ;D

xmenxmen

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A tip on centering t-molding for your future project.  On a piece of identical scrap wood, eye-ball the center, run it thru a small area, turn it over, run it thru the same area.  Now repeat with small adjustment until cutting on both side end up at the same location.

Learn that from someone else here....

ARTIFACT

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thanks for the tips!

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Whoa, lots of progress. Love the coin door and the speaker slots..nice work.

Getting a sweet Atari 2600 Chopper Command vibe from that marquee. :D

I'll measure the underside of my Tornado spinner if you can't find the info. It's really not that big..maybe 3"x2"

mcfreak

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Man I love my GGG TurboTwist.  Its the only one I have heard of that has a high enough resolution to work with Arkanoid and Ark ROD.  Its also great that it fits in a standard button size hole.  Compact design and multiple options for the knob.

I would read a few reviews before you take someone's word on it that it is "cheap".

I know there is a thread talking about Arkanoid and the Tornado and the TT2...  If this is one of the reasons you are getting it, I would suggest getting a second opinion.

BTW,  The control panel designs look great.  I also can't find anything I don't like about your Marquee.

ARTIFACT

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you guys are awesome :)

wait til i post all the latest pics w/ the cp mockup done!

ARTIFACT

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**** UPDATE! ****

PICS!

Close-up of speaker grills + screen plexiglass support slot:


Gotta love wood fill:


Top CP Panel is now removable (see my post with details about that above):


Bottom CP panel is now permanently mounted (was removable before) and wood-filled around (will dry overnight):


Frame in the way of box metal coin box (BEFORE):


Frame not in the way any more! Big box fits now (AFTER):


Sketchup on one side to measure, saw horses on the other side to draw and cut (MOCKUP CP):


BOOM!


and RE-BOOM!

CLICK HERE FOR A LARGE VERSION

Comfortable! Exactly where my fingers fall ...
(Button #4 will be my neo geo #1 instead of adding a 7th)


Flip it around ... CHERRIES! :)


Tidy!

CLICK HERE FOR A LARGE VERSION


(I am waiting to get the measurements of the Tornado Spinner before cutting any hole for it on my mockup CP - stay tuned)
« Last Edit: August 09, 2007, 11:28:07 pm by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/9
« Reply #114 on: August 10, 2007, 01:38:40 am »
Threw together a low-res visualization of how it may all come together (black will look BETTER than all flat like this of course :) )

Regarding the lack of side-art + visual design decisions:

My family is going to look at this all day everyday for years ... I don't want to go tooooo crazy on the colors, prints, etc...
I want the cab to "blend" with the den / TV room, with its existing all-black furniture and red walls.




CPO details coming up next  (button labels, etc)

javeryh

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/9
« Reply #115 on: August 10, 2007, 12:16:29 pm »
Regarding the lack of side-art + visual design decisions:

My family is going to look at this all day everyday for years ... I don't want to go tooooo crazy on the colors, prints, etc...
I want the cab to "blend" with the den / TV room, with its existing all-black furniture and red walls.

Woah - nice job so far.  I love the art too.  I agree with you about not making it too crazy looking.  I ordered side art for my arcade and I taped it in place for a few weeks and every single person who saw it said they liked the plain (pink!) sides better even though they really liked how the side art looked as a piece of art.  Sometimes simple is the way to go I guess.

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/9
« Reply #116 on: August 10, 2007, 12:39:46 pm »
:)

Thanks javeryh

I may get a simple sticker of the logo printed by itself and use it for the sides
small (10 inches wide or so)
maybe dark gray / blend with black side even ... I'll play with the idea a bit :)

BobA

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/9
« Reply #117 on: August 10, 2007, 02:02:11 pm »
Went thru the project from beginning to end.  Great job and your planning is excellent.  I like the lines of your cab and your use of plywood.  Looking forward to your finishing and detailing.

 :applaud:

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/9
« Reply #118 on: August 12, 2007, 02:18:08 am »
**** UPDATE ****

. Got a paint sprayer from a friend, will start applying prime coats + sanding fine each time SOON

. POWER BUTTON! ... Wired a Happ Pushbutton directly to the PC motherboard by disconnecting the existing power switch and extending the wires.
(a SMART STRIP will power the TV and marquee light when the PC is on - this Happ button will be placed behind the cab in a convenient place)


. Started to test the IPAC2 encoder + Happ Pushbuttons (this is my first time wiring, so I wanted to get comfortable with it) - IT ALL WORKS!

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/11
« Reply #119 on: August 13, 2007, 01:22:56 am »
Coat of prime is on!

(no pics sorry... looks all white :) )

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/11
« Reply #120 on: August 15, 2007, 10:42:32 am »
... 2nd coat of primer was applied last night

:)

Will sand tonight and who knows... maybe start painting it!


(stay tuned)

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/11
« Reply #121 on: August 15, 2007, 04:22:09 pm »
Very    ...     Very     ...      nice cab!

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/11
« Reply #122 on: August 15, 2007, 08:49:42 pm »
Looking very nice and clean!

(And you have me convinced that I must learn Sketchup despite half-hearted past attempts.)

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/11
« Reply #123 on: August 16, 2007, 10:34:26 am »
Thank you guys!

I threw my back (carrying a 27" ntsc monitor with RGB I got for free!!!) yesterday so I'm taking some time off from the project for a little bit.
I am orderinbg my U360's, spinner, trackball, etc.

Stay tuned!

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/11
« Reply #124 on: August 17, 2007, 02:45:12 am »
A quick pic of the cab with wood fill, sanded, 2 coats of primer on, sanded, before painting it (black semi-gloss):

Overview:


Close-up ... Screws are invisible! :)
« Last Edit: August 18, 2007, 01:04:25 am by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum **** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/16
« Reply #125 on: August 18, 2007, 01:11:41 am »
Getting STARTED with the painting ... as you may know this is a long process to get to the finished state.

NOTE: do *not* sand the primer coats too smooth... Paint needs some ROUGH surface to stick to ... My primer coats were like MIRRORS on the sides of my cab, and the paint didn't stick to them (!) ... I had to "rough it up" with 100 grip paper and re-paint. One of the sides (right) is half-way peeled actually. I'll sand it completely tomorrow and make sure to "rough it up" before painting again. The pics below were taken before all of this.

Pictures of the cab as it looks in the middle of painting (after first coat):




CLICK HERE FOR A LARGE VERSION

..................
MONITOR UPDATE:
OH... while I was working on all of this, I also switched from the TV / S-Video to using a true RGB monitor (27" still!) that is multisync, etc... I picked it up FREE (!) from a local post-production studio which switched to all-digital (TIP: CALL YOUR LOCAL TV STATIONS TO GET ONE TOO!) .. I used a VGA > BNC cable and it is BEAUTIFUL ... scanlines and low-resolutions in their pure beauty:

One small caveat: I designed my cab to fit the Sony 27" TV *perfectly* ... not this other monitor... it is thinner (that's good) but also bulkier (not good) in the back... I MUST DECASE IT... You guys will follow the progress of that here as well :)

Back label / model details ("April 1993"):


Connectors:


How the screen graphics look (I looove it...)




CLICK FOR LARGE 8.6 MEGA PIXEL VERSION (!)

:)

Man... this project is SO MUCH FUN ... planning, building, ordering stuff (!), being here with you guys...
« Last Edit: August 18, 2007, 01:42:07 am by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/17
« Reply #126 on: August 18, 2007, 11:11:11 am »
HEY

I created a new Wiki Page: SketchUp Tips:
http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/SketchUp_Tips

:):):)

Note that it is just a few things right now... I will add to it whenever I get a chance. Watch the page changes over time.

Take care.

javeryh

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/17
« Reply #127 on: August 18, 2007, 11:40:08 am »
Wow - you got that monitor for free!?!?!?  Nice find!  I'm going to end up spending $500 on the billabs one...   :'(

You are making really great progress - have you started designing your second one yet?   ;)

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/17
« Reply #128 on: August 18, 2007, 12:26:17 pm »
Call your local TV stations!

Call your local video post-production studios!

Ask them if they have some video monitors they aren't using, if they have "switched to digital" (that's what the guy I got mine from said), and if you could pick one (or more) up instead of dumping them. The guy was even more willing when I said that it would be for my kid and I to play video games together.

Good luck. Seriously this may be the tip of the century for BYOAC members.

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/17
« Reply #129 on: August 19, 2007, 02:46:18 am »
OK here are a few pics of the 27" monitor I took tonight while waiting for my cabinet paint to dry :)

Click on them for larger versions.

After measuring everything, it appears that I can get away NOT decasing this beast completely.
Instead, I will CUT the monitor's case "here and there": remove some corners, remove the roof, etc...
This way, no need to design and figure out additional mounting hardware/brackets... I'll cut out parts of the monitor case and it will fit "snug" exactly where I want it.
The fact that the case is mainly cardboard + MDF makes this an easy thing to do really.

Stay tuned :)







The cab is drying ... :) one of the side gave me problems :( ... it was initially sanded too smooth after I primed, and the paint didn't stick ... I "roughed" the surface, painted again, and this time it sticks :) ... BUT I can see a lot of scratches. After talking with my father in-law (who knows his stuff), I'll sand again with 120 to get rid of the scratches, then paint another coat. His advice was to also wait a full 2 days between coats to let it dry thru.

As usual, expect frequent updates and lots of pics :)

Make sure to check out the SketchUp page I added to the Wiki ... it's a work in progress, but you may already find it useful.
« Last Edit: August 19, 2007, 01:02:37 pm by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/18
« Reply #130 on: August 19, 2007, 09:22:10 pm »
Woow!

(sorry no pics, but an update anyway)

... I got the troublesome cabinet side (scratches showing thru the paint) DONE and it looks great :)
My father in law's tips worked and helped a ton.

I promise new pics soon ... this thread is like a "project diary" to me, I want to make sure to document and keep track of all the progress.

SO ... the cab is painted (semi-gloss black).

What is to come:

. de-case / modify monitor and put it in cab (temporarily / removable to transport)
. when fully dry, lightly sand paint smooth (1500 grit)
. Get TT2 spinner + big knob + RED T-molding (and maybe that nifty LED marquee light!) from GroovyGameGear.com
. get U360 sticks + 3" trackball (w/mount, LED kit) + marquee retainers in the mail (ordered already)
. finalize CP layout
. build 1 or 2 on scrap 3/4" plywood to REALLY prepare myself for the real CP construction, wired and playable
. print CPO and marquee artwork (mamemarquees.com)
. install marquee w/ retainers
. build final CP unit and install in cab (removable)
. get smart power strip (Craftsman brand, from Sears)
...

... this is too much fun :)

Loki

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/19
« Reply #131 on: August 21, 2007, 05:13:32 pm »
The monitor looks very nice! Do you need to do anything special with it? ArcadeVGA or powerstrip? Or can you just hook it up to the PC and it works?

Also nice work on the SketchUp Wiki.. keep up the good work!
I think it was mentioned before, but it would be great to have some downloadable content for SketchUp like buttons, joysticks and other related items :)
Maybe I'll try it, but I don't think I'm that good with precise models like that :s
Don't eat yellow snow.

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/19
« Reply #132 on: August 21, 2007, 06:58:38 pm »
Hi there Loki

The monitor worked directly, but I had to install Soft-15Khz ... interestingly it only worked if I chose 1 of the 3 options, the "Install 31Khz Resolutions" ... the 2 others (15 and 25) caused the screen to not work any more

even then, it LOOKS like I have the full range of resolutions working and looking great

go figure :)


as far as the Wiki + sketchup models .... for SOME reason the Wiki on BYOAC only accepts uploading JPEG files, no ZIP or SKP (sketchup project files) ... Maybe I should contact Saint to help me add the format there

I even made a special project with the following models to scale:

. Happ Pushbutton
. Cherry Microswitch (hooked to button)
. 27" SONY Trinitron TV (pretty generic size/shape)
. Fixed caster (2 1/2")
. Swivel caster w/ break (2 1/2")

...

Again, I have the file ready to share it, but the Wiki prevents me from uploading... I'd really like to keep everything contained in the Wiki. If I can't, I'll just attach the file to the "not a project" thread (or to a reply here) and link to the attachment from the Wiki.

Stay tuned :)

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/19
« Reply #133 on: August 23, 2007, 12:41:36 am »
Quick update:

I dug up and dusted off a Logitech DRIVING FORCE PRO wheel (+ pedals) I had for my late PS2 and configured it to work with PC Games, MAME and Model2 (woow! Daytonaa!)

SO

I am going to design a mounting system for it - a set of "blades" that will slide into "slots" on the sides of my cabinet.
It will be easily removable.

I dont have details yet - will figure it out :)
« Last Edit: August 23, 2007, 02:09:22 am by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/19
« Reply #134 on: August 23, 2007, 07:07:26 pm »
OMG...

My controls showed up in the mail today, and my marquee retainers!
Still waiting for the TT2 spinner, but I HAVE EVERYTHING ELSE!!!

. RED U360 (+ long shaft, restrictor kit) x2
. 3" translucent blue USB Happ Trackball + Mounting plate (NEW v2 USB encoder! No lag!)
. LED kit for Trackball
. Happ marquee retainers (28" x2)

(I already had all the Happ pushbuttons, cherries, wiring, and I-PAC2 ... I know the U360s have an optional harness, but I already have the IPAC so using it)



...

It's CP time!!!!
« Last Edit: August 23, 2007, 07:37:25 pm by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/19
« Reply #135 on: August 23, 2007, 10:03:53 pm »
(edit - problem solved ... apparently small plastic sleeves for the long U360 shafts are missing from the shipment I got)
« Last Edit: August 24, 2007, 12:18:46 am by ARTIFACT »

theCoder

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/19
« Reply #136 on: August 23, 2007, 11:32:45 pm »
My controls showed up in the mail today, and my marquee retainers!
Christmas in August.  Gotta love it.

Lakersfan

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/19
« Reply #137 on: August 26, 2007, 01:54:39 am »
Lookin good, Art.
I love your documentation on your project. One question, I'm not a "BS'er" by nature, so how did you approach your local TV stations? Did you call ... stop by ... who did you ask for? What state so you live in? ;) Did you straight out ask if they had any old 27" monitors they were getting rid of? Any and all tips will help!

Thanks & glad you're having fun with the project!! Keep up the good work!

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATED 8/19
« Reply #138 on: August 26, 2007, 04:26:23 am »
*** UPDATE ALERT!! MAJOR UPDATE!!! ***

This has been one CRAZY NIGHT! woah... I got WAY more done than what I was expecting to achieve in one night.
The pictures speak for themselves ... :)

(NOTE: a missing piece to my longer shafts for the U360s will arrive in the mail soon ... the short ones are good enough for now :) )

I didn't have enough vertical space to center my spinner BUT I put it on the P1 side close to the middle, and it feels great there.
The spinner on the right (in my previous drawings) had the P2 joystick in the way. This is a good compromise.
I am waiting to be 100% sure I am happy with the CP before I "finalize" (wood fill on trackball mount, etc).
The CP will have CPO artwork (mamemarquees) + Lexan / Plexiglass on top... ;)





First router cut done


One more router cut to go...


FLUSH!



All controls installed! BLAM! Overview

CLICK HERE FOR LARGER VERSION

Front overview:


Money Shots ;)



Under-belly:



YAWWWWNNNN ... Time to go to sleep.... Good night everybody ... WHAT A BLAST!
Ohh... THANKS EVERYONE FOR ALL THE INFO POSTED ON BYOAC  :cheers: :applaud:

------------------------------------------------
Lakersfan: I actually ran MANY queries on Craigslist ... I found it as "free" BUT it was not listed in the free category ... also the spelling was something like "27 NTSC monitor" (no inch double quote, etc) ... I just remember throwing search queries non stop varying spelling and elements ("27", then "monitor", etc) until I found this beauty... I emailed and the guy (head of a post-production / editing company) told me I was the first one on the list SO it was mine. I had the feeling that MANY OTHER tv stations / post-production freelance editors were also currently "throwing away" those amazing monitors. DO CALL and what the heck... just tell them what you are looking for! Tell them "it's better than adding to the landfill!" and "playing some old video games with my kids, it looks better on the old monitors" ...etc. GOOD LUCK.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2007, 04:29:33 am by ARTIFACT »

javeryh

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Awesome work ARTIFACT!  It is really coming together.  How did you mount the trackball - I see you used the plate but what type of opening did you cut underneath?   :cheers:

ARTIFACT

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thanks!

just a big square (5.6 '' as described on the happ diagrams.

:)

ARTIFACT

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**** ANOTHER UPDATE ****

. T-Molding installed
. Marquee retainers + marquee lexan "sandwich" installed

(marquee is not printed yet)

WOOW





 :cheers: :applaud:

Austin.Wolff

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It's....stunning O_O

Knievel

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BAM..a little t-mold and that retro-funk shape jumps right out at cha! NICE :applaud:



Zero_Hour

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Looks sweet ARTIFACT.

Question: Did you free hand the routing for flush mounting the trackball plate?
"Paradise, is exactly like where you are right now - only much, MUCH better." -Laurie Anderson

Lakersfan

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Wow! The CP is coming along great! I'm so excited to start mine. You've given me confidence to try! Can't wait to get away from work some. :p I can't believe how smooth everything looks. Do you still plan on putting plexi or lexan on the top?

Thanks for the tips on the monitor. I'll keep an eye on craigslist and maybe make some phone calls.

javeryh

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Now that's what I'm talking about!!  T-molding makes everything POP.  You should be allowed to put it everywhere and on everything.   You are getting really close to finishing and at the pace you are moving I'd expect you to be done very soon.  Time to start thinking about #2.  :cheers:

The Chugnut

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Awesome work fella!

Coming along real nice. Love the fact that it's pretty much spot on with your original Sketch-Up design.

You must be very proud!  :applaud:  :notworthy:

ARTIFACT

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hi everyone!

how awesome to see your posts while waking up and drinking my cup of coffee :)

thank you SO MUCH for everything you contribute: you own awesome projects that inspire everyone else, all the information you post on BYOAC, the PMs you sent me out of the blue providing me even more info and 'checking' on my progress, and your encouragements. You are all so great, i can only make progress in this environment! you give me energy it is hard not to thank you guys in each post I make on byoac ... :)

anyways last night I started wiring (wires th exact lengths,etc) and realized i should watch out on not painting myself into a corner here (no CPO, lexan top, adjusted contour / sanded, or wood fill on trackball mount yet).

I think I'll take care of these things next.

also th monitor isn't 100 percent fixed yet (angle, decasing, reposition circuit boards etc). all thes wires inside are daunting and im scared im going to disconnect something and be stuck there). plus i have to be able to remove the screen a the end to move the cab to its final destination (upstairs den / family room).. THAT is  problem btw... im scared i wont be ale to hold the tube without the case around it (it has handles) and kill myself unplugging it from the circuit boards...

your input is welcome.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2007, 10:49:54 pm by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Question: Did you free hand the routing for flush mounting the trackball plate?

Yes. It's not the cleanest job, but since the gaps will have wood fill and that it is going to be covered (CPO printed + lexan) ...

:)

My first CP...

ARTIFACT

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**** UPDATE TIME ****

. CP Lexan Top! Cut all the holes (using hole saws, clamped plywood over sandwiching Lexan sheet to avoid glitches)
. Test CPO artwork printed (inkjet ... testing only!)
. Test CPO holes cut (x-acto knife thru Lexan holes and CP holes as guides/templates)

NEXT: ORDER *PROPER* CPO + Marquee from mamemarquees.com  :applaud:

Ohhh  and of course... MORE PICS!

Lexan holes cut:


CP + Lexan clamped, "test" CP Artwork sandwiched, cutting holes:


"test" CP Artwork ready, you can see the "lines" between the 3 sheets used to print the test - nice "shine" with the Lexan top:


Of course... this is a "test" and everything ... but I couldn't resist nesting the CP in the cab :) ... nothing is plugged/wired though ... looks NICE! :cheers:






Wait 'til I plug that super bright LED under the translucent blue trackball... OHHH  :cheers:
« Last Edit: August 28, 2007, 02:38:10 am by ARTIFACT »

bfauska

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #151 on: August 28, 2007, 10:42:03 am »
Looking good.  Nice job with the drilling of the holes, when I heard you describe the process before I scrolled to the pictures I was worried.  I usually suggest a router for holes in plex or lexan, but the final product looks great.  What are you going to do for the part of the CP that is currently exposed wood?  Paint, or oversized CPO?

javeryh

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #152 on: August 28, 2007, 12:00:18 pm »
Wow - looking great!  I really like your CPO.  Nice job! :cheers:

xmenxmen

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #153 on: August 28, 2007, 12:03:16 pm »
Amazing!!!

Can u take a few more picture of the trackball at an angle where I can see it connect to the lexan as I think u might need to smooth the lexan a bit.  Like usual, see pic.

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #154 on: August 28, 2007, 12:58:46 pm »
bfauska:

hey hey you can see inspiration from your template in my button layout :) not exactly the same but along the lines...

the CPO will be oversized and actually wrap around the front and bottom surface (see 3D mockup on page 2 or 3) it will look even better


xmenxmen

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #155 on: August 28, 2007, 01:06:35 pm »
I was referring to the trackball hole in the lexan.  Curving it a little would look very nice if it's not already done.

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #156 on: August 28, 2007, 01:15:37 pm »
I was referring to the trackball hole in the lexan.  Curving it a little would look very nice if it's not already done.

I was replying to a different question :) ... The lexan hole does need a little help/smoothing yep. It's not too bad because the lexan is only 1/16" thick, and I'm not 100% sure how to smooth/round that edge without messing it all up.

Any tips are welcome ;)

(thanks all for the encouragements!)

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #157 on: August 28, 2007, 01:47:49 pm »
Easiest way is take a file and file it down a bit at a 90 degree angle around the whole circle   then using ultra fine grit sand paper and sand it to smooth. 

The other method would be use a round (think that's right bit name) router bit and round it out a bit.

Most round it to either touch or go a little bit below the trackball lip.  I use a file and sand paper on mine as I didn't have the correct router bit to use. 

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #158 on: August 28, 2007, 02:08:00 pm »
the file technique sounds good (and your end product is perfect!) ... 1/16" is so thin, I think I'd destroy it with my huge router :) ... thanks again for all the tips!

Austin.Wolff

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #159 on: August 28, 2007, 07:49:21 pm »
I hate you so much... in the best way you could imagine.  You've got a talent man.

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #160 on: August 29, 2007, 01:26:26 am »
I just placed my oder for Marquee & CPO from www.MameMarquees.com woooooowww .......... :)

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #161 on: August 30, 2007, 08:42:32 pm »
... waiting for mamemarquee CPO + marquee ... :)
Apparently they are on holidays and will resume printing next week.. NEED ... PATIENCE!!!

OH I plugged the trackball's LED to my PC power supply (12V) and ** WOW ** this rocks. I will take some pics and post them here tonight if I can ... the translucent blue rocks.

I did a quick connection test with 2 buttons per player (for now) and fine-tuned the way I control MALA. Here's the best configuration so far:

. Use Mala "Tree" configuration

. Trackball = scroll list up/down (THIS ROCKS! you can THROW the ball and ZOOOOM thru the list)

. Player 1 Joystick up/down = scroll list A -> Z (letters)

. Player 1 Start = Select item

. Exit button (red on top left, 4 inches from start) = Exit current tree node (go to parent)


This is consistent to how it works inside the games too (P1 start = start; Exit = go back to menu)

psychotech

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #162 on: August 30, 2007, 09:14:19 pm »
Awesome!  :notworthy:

I'm sure Jack will be happy in that phunky cab :)

Great job  :cheers:

psychotech

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #163 on: August 30, 2007, 11:41:07 pm »
thank you!

What is JACK? :)

psychotech

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #164 on: August 31, 2007, 05:18:55 am »
Heh ;)

ę Reply #150 Ľ



Bomb Jack ...

psychotech

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #165 on: August 31, 2007, 10:39:37 am »
ahh yes!

i love bomb jack

im a liiiiittle disapointed by the list of trackball games though... :(
half of it is variants of bowling or golf, many of which im dont like that much. i went thru the list (mala reported about 80 masters) and did enjoy a few games of course, but i was expecting more from 30 years of trackball arcades... TELL ME I AM WRONG!

i already posted a thread asking for lists of the best TB games, ill  dig it up now that its playable :)

i found a ton of awesome spinner games though.

my coin mechs are more messed up than i thought, so i put a cherry microswitch behind the coin return 1 button and that adds credits. dropping a coin was working but the original switch registered a click only 50% of the time. ill see if i can find newer mechs and wire both return buttons (handy) and the coin drops (for fun)

i also need to find 2 led lights to illuminate the coin return buttons

Stobe

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #166 on: August 31, 2007, 02:27:39 pm »
my coin mechs are more messed up than i thought, so i put a cherry microswitch behind the coin return 1 button and that adds credits. dropping a coin was working but the original switch registered a click only 50% of the time. ill see if i can find newer mechs and wire both return buttons (handy) and the coin drops (for fun)


How much more "Arcade Authentic" could you ask for?

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #167 on: August 31, 2007, 07:11:48 pm »
You shouldnt need to do anything to your trackball hole since the lip from the trackball sticks up almost 1/8" and the lexan is almost 1/8" so they look flush.  Thats how mine is anyway. 


Your color coordination and your artwork are amazing.  I wish I had something like that.  The retro style looks great with a perfect control set up.


edit:/  I sorta went nuts on mine and its all big and tasteless.
« Last Edit: September 01, 2007, 01:03:22 am by Timoe »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #168 on: August 31, 2007, 08:03:19 pm »
Thank you Timoe!

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #169 on: September 01, 2007, 11:05:14 am »
...i already posted a thread asking for lists of the best TB games, ill  dig it up now that its playable :)
Leapinlew turned me on to a cool site that should help you out.  The folks at mameworld have a good ROM ranking system / advanced search feature that should give you the list you're looking for.  Check it out at: http://www.mameworld.net/maws

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #170 on: September 01, 2007, 03:12:57 pm »
thanks

im familiar with MAWS - though i still wanted to see if i missed dsme awesome trackball titles.

maws has a few titles that have bloated number of votes i think (dragon ball z is #1!) so i wasnt sure i could trust the ranking system.

i do lke it to list things by control type - although i get mala to do that too

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #171 on: September 02, 2007, 05:18:34 pm »
quick update: Illuminated trackball!

Sorry no night/dark shots ... it's still bright though!
I haven't put the bezel yet as I am still adjusting the screen angle etc.

More pics of illuminated trackball in the dark, later.

*** Still waiting for my artwork from mamemarquees.com!!! they are back from holidays this week AAAHH ***

My little guy and I are already playing a lot of Donkey Kong, original Mario Bros, Dig Dug, etc... He also loves Caveman Ninjas / Joe & Mac and New Zealand Story... OH and Cameltry RULES.




Oh.. This is my CPO which "wraps" all around my CP (top, front, bottom: 28" x 21"):


Marquee (already posted):
« Last Edit: September 03, 2007, 01:31:13 am by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2
« Reply #172 on: September 03, 2007, 01:20:30 am »
As promised.... :)

Pics pics pics!

** REMEMBER: ARTWORK NOT FINAL IN PICS, and LONGER JOYSTICK SHAFTS COMING SOON **












NEXT?

. receive the final CPO + Marquee
. wire up all the controls (right now it's temporary)
. finalize monitor position/angle, remove part of the case, move some PCBs
. add a bezel
. wire up LEDs behind the coin return buttons
. figure out a headphones solution... probably extend the existing headphone connector to below the CP
. move the cab upstairs in the family room :)

LATER

. add pinball buttons + figure out future-pinball install/wrapper/etc
. order an Act Labs lightgun (still really confused about LCD vs Act Labs... will keep researching)
. design and build a quick mounting solution for my Logitech Driving Force PRO wheel / pedals (Daytona!)
« Last Edit: September 03, 2007, 01:36:52 am by ARTIFACT »

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2 * NEW shiny pics
« Reply #173 on: September 04, 2007, 12:35:39 am »
Unbelievable! Looks really nice. Question on your trackball ... how thick is your plexi? That's a regular TB, right (as opposed to a "highlip")? My understanding was that if i was going to want to put 1/8" plexi on it, that I'd need the high lip. But yours looks smooth! Exactly the way I want it. Maybe you're using a thinner plexi?

Keep up the good work!

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2 * NEW shiny pics
« Reply #174 on: September 04, 2007, 01:03:35 am »
1/16"

You're correct! funny thing is.. I didn't measure... I went to the plastic store and first asked for 1/8", but then switched to 1/16"

I like the 1/16", but it's a bit flexible... On the front edge of the CP someone "could" pull it up and bend it - any idea to fix it down without ruining the CPO?

Thanks BTW! :) I have fun taking pics as I go... It's really cool to look back.
My artwork better arrive soon!!!

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2 * NEW shiny pics
« Reply #175 on: September 04, 2007, 01:16:16 am »
Once you see your artwork, you'll be sooooooo impressed. I just received my marquee (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=69079.0) right before Scott from mamemarquees went on vacation. It looks awesome! I can't wait to get it on the cab. I've been waiting though, as I consider it a "finale" sort of thing and I'm far from my finale.  ;)

Back to the plexi - how was the 1/16" to cut? Any cracks? My CP will have curved edges so I can't cut and snap it. I'm thinking I'll have to router it around my CP...

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2 * NEW shiny pics
« Reply #176 on: September 04, 2007, 01:28:56 am »
I think I was lucky... I just used HOLE SAWs (!) ... 1 1/8" for the buttons + sticks, 3" for the trackball...

important: I sandwiched the plexi between the CP top (with existing holes) and another piece of scrap 3/4" plywood using clamps. Then I used the hole saws and used the side with existing holes as guides... I went SLOWLY (don't push down too hard) ... Eventually the hole saw went through the plexi. The piece of scrap plywood was there to avoid any tearing or problems. BTW the plexi they sold me is the same stuff LEXAN is made of ("polycarbonate") ... I hear that regular plexiglass can be much more a nightmare to cut.

But the plastic shop cut my 28" x 8" piece ... I didn't have to make long cuts.

Good luck with yours!


I ordered the "ULTIMATE" marquee material from Scott, and the laminated vinyl CPO with adhesive backing :) ... I will probably use wood fill to fill the gaps of the trackball to avoid everything showing thru due to adhesive
« Last Edit: September 04, 2007, 01:38:21 am by ARTIFACT »

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #177 on: September 04, 2007, 05:53:34 am »
Oh.. This is my CPO which "wraps" all around my CP (top, front, bottom: 28" x 21"):


Marquee (already posted):


If I haven't said this all ready, I really dig your artwork.  Good job on this!  I can only imagine how satisfying it is to see your project rounding the corner to being done!  Can't wait to see the finish out.

-csa

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2 * NEW shiny pics
« Reply #178 on: September 05, 2007, 10:54:14 am »
Thank you csa3d!

The artwork is SIMPLE and I debated forever on whether or not adding "contours" around the button areas, text labels "select" "exit", etc... Since I am still tweaking the way the menu looks and menu interaction works, I went for a more generic CPO and plan to perhaps make some temporary sticker labels with my inkjet that can easily peel off the vinyl CPO from time to time if needed.

I love the "stripes". I think it is going to look pretty authentic/classic.

It feels wonderful to be almost there... There are still a few remaining things to do, as listed in my previous post, but I am getting there :)

I see that MAMEMARQUEES / Scott has updated my order status on September 1st to "processing" ...  this is 4 days later, so hopefully printing+shipping will happen this week! :cheers:

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 8/27
« Reply #179 on: September 05, 2007, 11:11:53 am »
My little guy and I are already playing a lot of Donkey Kong, original Mario Bros, Dig Dug, etc... He also loves Caveman Ninjas / Joe & Mac and New Zealand Story... OH and Cameltry RULES.
It's nice to see the next generation of video addicts in training.  Cameltry is entirely different when played with a trackball instead of a JS.  My daughter loves that game.  Great progress.

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2 * NEW shiny pi
« Reply #180 on: September 05, 2007, 11:19:48 am »

I like the 1/16", but it's a bit flexible... On the front edge of the CP someone "could" pull it up and bend it - any idea to fix it down without ruining the CPO?


You can put t-molding in front of it to cover it.  Or you will have to do what most arcade do, drill some screw into it to hold it down.  I am also afraid that even with the t-molding, you might have to put screws in there to hold it down due to how thin and flexible it is.

Not sure if it's too late, but another reason why people use thicker plexi is due to how solid it is, so it don't easily bend.  Mine is 1/8 or so and all that's holding it is the buttons and t-molding.

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2 * NEW shiny pics
« Reply #181 on: September 05, 2007, 01:19:42 pm »
thanks!

yep i may just get a 1/8 lexan top and replace it

no t-molding due to my nice wrap-around cpo (see latest post above)

instead i will ask the plasic shop to cut the long edge with a curved bevel. they can do that.

i may even go 1/4'

stephenp1983

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2 * NEW shiny pi
« Reply #182 on: September 05, 2007, 09:41:05 pm »
I really like the glow on the trackball.  It looks great.

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2 * NEW shiny pics
« Reply #183 on: September 06, 2007, 01:17:26 am »
OMG i am in the middle of soldering a headphones jack to my de-cased PC Speaker amplifier PCB...

(pic of the de-cased pc speaker amplifier PCB)


BUT ... it happened that a physical switch was placed on the amplifier PCB BEHIND the jack... opening a circuit which disabled the main speaker output when the plug "pushed" the switch. ARGHH

SO

I am no electronic wiz, but I figured out how to reuse one of the headphone sides on my panel jack to open that when the headphones are plugged... It's a Radio Shack jack which has 5 prongs instead of just 3 ... the extra 2 are activated when the jack is not plugged. I was able to use that to replace the physical switch.

The result?

It works BUT 1 of the sides in the headphones is not working... IT'S OK... THE main goal was to give the miss a break with the noise when I play :) ... I'll just make a mono merger adapter so both ears get audio (just the same side). I can leave without true stereo headphones, especially when most of the times it's Donkey Kong that's running! ;)

I am proud that it's working!! Again I am totally new to all this stuff...
I had a ton of fun doing it...

see more details here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=70898.0

bfauska

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2 * NEW shiny pi
« Reply #184 on: September 06, 2007, 01:52:59 am »
Congratulations on the semi (mono) success.  Your project is looking great, and like many others have said the artwork is totally classy and authentic/retro looking. 

I can't decide what I like more about your project, the project itself or picturing all the fun you seem to be having.  I enjoy my projects (both arcade and work) but seldom realize how much it can be like a puzzle or game. I suppose I have a good time doing the stuff, but you always sound like you are having as much fun as a kid at a carnival.  Congratulations on discovering the new great hobby and I hope it stays this much fun for you.  I also hope to try and apply some of that outlook on all my projects, everything is like a puzzle or game and figuring it out should be a blast.

 :cheers:  :applaud:

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/2 * NEW shiny pics
« Reply #185 on: September 06, 2007, 02:59:13 am »
bfauska: what can I say ... THANK YOU for the kind words. Yes I am super enthusiastic to be lucky enough to build something like this, get challenged by various things to solve, etc... Definitely like a puzzle/game.

Guess what: ---------------- PICS UPDATE!!!!!!

NEW: (beat up) COIN DOOR ILLUMINATED! (2 super bright red LEDs, 5V, connected to PC power supply)



...

My amp PCB after my carnage of soldering ... It wasn't as simple as planned :)


My new headphone jack ... Notice the 2 extra wires at the top, replacing the extra physical switch I mentioned (turns off speakers when plugged)


The radio shack headphones jack specs ... I used #3 and #2 as the new switch/circuit for the speakers trigger



WOOOOWW PROGRESS PROGRESS!
« Last Edit: September 06, 2007, 03:03:51 am by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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the wait for my package from scott (mamemarquees.com) is killing me! ............. my order has been saying 'processing' for more than a week... :( I ordered at the wrong time (right before they got back from vacation i think)... i know that they are usually very quick to ship, so it's a rare situation... keeping my fingers crossed.

in the meantime I am figuring out my monitor position/angle/decasing situation... I am scared to mess with all the pcbsinside the monitor, its very intricate with a dozen or so connectors between the pcbs.

thanks again for all the encouragements :)

ARTIFACT

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I *just* ordered Randy's LED MATRIX MARQUEE LIGHT ;)

I like the fact that it doesn't get hot, doesn't use as much power, etc.. I want to leave my cab on for long periods of time, and I think the old tube fixture I have could be a fire hazard eventually (it looks like it is from the 50's! ... it may be)


I also ordered a Bits LTD SMART STRIP ... gotta power that monitor in sync with the computer :)

In a week or so, I'll order *one* ACT LABS Light Gun (with PC USB VGA box) in RED :) ... YES these are expensive, but hey... I don't want to fight with drivers forever (what seems common with LCD topgun)... If I am not 100% happy with it, I can return it and get my money back within 30 days. That works for me.


OMG... Scott emailed me back and ... he did not have my files (!!!) ... Some glitch in the email system perhaps... I had emailed the files attached at the same time as ordering/paying... :(
I re-uploaded the files and will keep my fingers crossed to see the package show up at my door soon.......................................... :P
« Last Edit: September 10, 2007, 02:34:22 am by ARTIFACT »

csa3d

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** Upright cab (scratch) - UPDATE 9/5 Coin Door LEDs
« Reply #188 on: September 10, 2007, 11:36:31 am »
I also ordered a Bits LTD SMART STRIP ... gotta power that monitor in sync with the computer :)

Any reason you didn't go with the Sears Smartstrip?  Curious, as I'm about to pull the trigger on a power solution soon.

Thanks
-csa

ARTIFACT

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Well I dropped by Sears the other day and I thought I spoke Klingon when I described the smart strip (...?)

They said "never heard of it ... order from online if it's there"

Others have mentioned using the Bits LTD a lot, so I went to the site and pulled the trigger on one.

ARTIFACT

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**** UPDATE ****

. Smart Power Strip installed! (BITS LTD brand)

. LED Marquee light installed! (GroovyGameGear.com)


My arcade cabinet is truly a ONE BUTTON OPERATION now ... this smart strip is GREAT!

I love the LED marquee light, though I still have not received my proper marquee print from mamemarquees.com (same with CPO) due to some files being lost when I ordered, so I can't show you how it illuminated an actual marquee... I had it on for several hours tonight and it did not get hot or even warm. Very cool. Easy to install too (12V from Computer PSU)

Oh and ... New pics of course! ;)


My beloved LED MATRIX marquee light from GroovyGameGear.com


Smart Strip!!!




LED Matrix light installed in cab - no marquee artwork yet ... just the masking material on the Lexan sheets for now










... eagerly waiting for my package from mamemarquees.com now ;)

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #191 on: September 13, 2007, 11:10:33 am »
scott emailed me: my marquee and CPO are printed and will be shipped shortly! wooow ;)

oh, and I started to work on a new custom MaLa layout that follows the visual theme I went for... will post screenshots soon.

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #192 on: September 13, 2007, 01:05:02 pm »
Your project is turning out amazing!

What game is that on the latest screenshots, ive been looking for it for a while... I was too young back then to remember the name of it

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #193 on: September 13, 2007, 01:24:33 pm »
I will live vicariously through you this week, as I await my joysticks to show up in the mail.  Neat to see how you installed that LED marquee.  For watever reason I was thinking I was going to have to find some l-brackets, and wood never crossed my mind.

Hurry up and finish all ready! ;)
-csa

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #194 on: September 13, 2007, 07:49:07 pm »
Your project is turning out amazing!

What game is that on the latest screenshots, ive been looking for it for a while... I was too young back then to remember the name of it

Thank you!

It is S.T.U.N Runner (or "racer").

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #195 on: September 13, 2007, 07:50:29 pm »
Hurry up and finish all ready! ;)
-csa

HAHA ;) ... waiting for my MAMEMARQUEES.COM package!!!! ... it should be here in 2 days

... finishing also includes hauling the cab upstairs thru the steep stairs and around tight corners (!!!)

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #196 on: September 14, 2007, 12:32:37 am »
Did you ever get the longer handles for the joysticks?

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #197 on: September 14, 2007, 01:18:25 am »
Did you ever get the longer handles for the joysticks?

... I am still waiting for it ... Divemaster127 said he shipped them to me a while back, I am not sure why it hasn't arrived yet... :(

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #198 on: September 14, 2007, 02:04:58 am »
Patience, man, patience.

I like your power strip.  Where'd you get it from?  When I was looking the cheapest I could find was $50 delivered.  I can't wait for these things to come down in price.

Nice progress.


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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #199 on: September 14, 2007, 10:20:42 am »
an ebay shop... it was $28 + $12 shipping
« Last Edit: September 14, 2007, 10:46:35 am by ARTIFACT »

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #200 on: September 15, 2007, 12:20:55 am »
I PULLED THE TRIGGER (no pun intended) and ordered an ACT LABS Light Gun w/ USB-VGA box




wooow :) yummmmmmmmmmm ... it better calibrate and work correctly!!!
(I have 30 days to return it w/ refund)
... one more package to patiently wait for... ;)
« Last Edit: September 15, 2007, 12:24:14 am by ARTIFACT »

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #201 on: September 17, 2007, 08:06:00 am »
**** UPDATE ****

Finally decided *not* to put visible screws / bolts / etc on my Control Panel, and add a convenient way to troubleshoot / work on my wiring.
I used a long piano hinge ($6 from Home Depot) and added a 2x3 behind the Control Panel top, in front of the monitor.
I will also add magnets to hold the CP down. Because the CP top is already "snug" so much between the sides, gravity will do the rest of the holding.

I am not 100% done, but it already is hugely more convenient to access and work on now.
Because my CP top was so exactly fitted, I had to shave off ~1/16" in length using sand paper. I actually damaged the nice black paint trying to open the CP before I did that (ARG!).
I will mostly likely do retouching and finishing at the very end, after the whole cab is moved upstairs and ready to power back up.

Sorry for the phone pics :) ... that's all I had at hand

Testing placement of hinge + additional 2x3 beam ... the screen plexi will cover this:


After removing all the controls/wiring (to sand comfortably the length down a bit), and mounting the pieces, it works! :)




My MameMarquees.com package finally shipped Friday, so I will wait for it before re-assembling all the controls + do final wiring.
I may even apply the artwork when the cab is in its final location... I am paranoid about damaging it during transport (very steep stairs, very tight corners, etc :( )

OH, I almost forgot... My custom MALA LAYOUT is taking shape... I haven't put "tree snaps" in place yet (photos of various systems) or layout variants for different lists (gun, trackball, spinner, etc), but the basic foundation is in place and works very well. You can see SIMPLICITY is the goal here, and that 'retro feel' in sync with my marquee, CPO, and overall shape of the cab. Small accents of goodness such as subtle transparency are also thrown in where it makes sense :) ... A readable and usable layout.

Custom MALA Layout Overview:


Subtle transparency effects, where it makes sense, revealing the depth of the "retro landscape":


On-screen instructions! :) ... I plan to make a nice exhaustive instructions "label" also (add/remove game from list, audio volume, etc) and stick it on the cab somewhere.


... I also play Ahofle's amazing "Arcade Ambiance" audio files when MaLa is on the screen ... :)


What's left!

. wood-fill my trackball mount (so it won't show through the adhesive CPO)
. redo the plexi (lexan) CP top ... Get a thicker sheet this time so it won't bent/lift as easily (1/16" now ... Will go 1/8 or 1/4 this time)
. Add "felt pads" under the joystick dust washers!!! Without, they made circle scratches all over the plexi top! :( (I am open to put the washers "under", but I don't know how that'd work)

. de-assemble parts of the cab (monitor, electronics/guts) to make it as light as possible
. transport the cab "upstairs" to its final location in the family room / den
. wait patiently for my packages :) (marquee, CPO, act-labs lightgun, ... long joystick shafts!)
. re-assemble, apply artwork, wire everything final as clean as possible
. close the back + add a couple of fans (blow air in low, blow hot air above)
. retouch paint scratches (all over the place!) :)

. oh, IF I ever get Future Pinball to "get focus" when launched from MaLa (!!) ... I'll add pinball buttons to the sides.


I couldn't resist to post... My 5 year old son's hands playing the arcade... Come on... Isn't that the cutest thing you've ever seen?  :D :D :D
He can travel the MaLa tree and flip games by himself. He loves throwing the trackball racing thru the lists ;)

« Last Edit: September 17, 2007, 09:10:42 am by ARTIFACT »

javeryh

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout
« Reply #202 on: September 17, 2007, 09:51:20 am »
Just AWESOME.  I really love all the attention to detail.  You also seem to be able to find time to work on it which is something I'm insanely jealous of.

How hard was it to make the custom MaLa layout?  I'd like to do one for my cabinet but I don't have any real computer skills and I've never used photoshop or anything other than MS paint...

 :cheers:

Akuma

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout
« Reply #203 on: September 17, 2007, 10:27:42 am »
I can only continue the positive feedback. Great work so far. Personally, I really love the custom skin for the frontend and I really like the pixelart concept! (How do you say? I dig it (?) )

: )

Waiting for the final piece. I'll keep my fingers crossed for an unproblematic transport upstairs : )

Cheers

philby85

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout
« Reply #204 on: September 17, 2007, 06:22:03 pm »
This is one of the best threads I have read in my time at BYOAC. The fact that you designed the cab in sketchup and brought it to life is amazing. Your artwork is perfect for the time period and the cab. Can't wait to see it totally finished. Your attention to detail is a credit to you. The best thing is your enthusiasm it's infectious and will have inspired many :applaud: You are also gracious in your praise for others and their helpful tips. Well done mate!  :notworthy:

AWESOME JOB!

philby

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout
« Reply #205 on: September 18, 2007, 01:04:01 am »
Thank you everyone again for the cool posts!!! ;) It keeps me going!!!

philby: I don't know what to say!! :) thank you


I am going to post a mega update soon!!!
For now it will be text "bullets" ... PICS LATER

. Cab is moved upstairs (YAY! I was freaking out about that one) ... the 6 casters design proved VITAL there... It went vooom thru the front lawn like a dolly ;)

. My artwork arrived! Scott did a BEAUTIFUL JOB... GO SCOTT @ mamemarquees.com!!

. My marquee is installed, the light is NOT on yet (still re-wiring the PC inside) ... I will post pics as soon as it's lit!

. I took the plunge and invested time in properly modifying the 27" Monitor's case and PCB placements... What a NIGHTMARE this was!! Well it was FUN but very stressful (I have ZERO experience with monitors and I didn't want to break it) ... Modification is PERFECT... the monitor fits in the cab perfectly now :)

. Carried the monitor upstairs (not a trivial task! PHEW!)

Thanks again for all the positive posts. This is truly an amazing community.

Lakersfan

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout
« Reply #206 on: September 18, 2007, 01:17:42 am »
 :applaud:
Keep goin', Artifact!

Can't wait for the pics!

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout
« Reply #207 on: September 18, 2007, 02:52:02 am »
Here we go... Crappy cell phone pictures for now, sorry!






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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** (scratch!) UPDATE 9/12 Marquee LED + Smart Strip
« Reply #208 on: September 18, 2007, 10:29:25 am »
IF I ever get Future Pinball to "get focus" when launched from MaLa (!!) ... I'll add pinball buttons to the sides.
IF ?????    You love your son don't you?  You want all the best things for him don't you.  Don't deprive him of the life long memories of playing video pinball with his Dad.  Come on man.  Do it for the kid.

Even if you can't get Future Pinball to work, there are lots of other very good pinball games out there.  Pro-Pinball Series, Addiction Pinball, and Microsoft Pinball for example.  You can usually pick them up on eBay for less than $10 delivered.  "no-cd" versions of the Pro-Pinball executables are out there that allow you to launch from the HD without requiring the CD in the drive.  There is also a utility for the Microsoft Pinball game that allows you to bypass it's menu and launch directly to each table from your menu.

Looks great!

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout + marquee!
« Reply #209 on: September 19, 2007, 01:32:37 am »
That marquee is very, very, very cool.  It looks like it came straight from the golden era of arcade cabinets, great design.  Congratulations on the successful relocation.

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout + marquee!
« Reply #210 on: September 19, 2007, 10:38:23 am »
thank you all! :)

last night i started wood-filling the trackball mount plate and all the small imperfections on the CP board... letting it dry overnight. I need to sand and do a second pass to make it all perfect. I also need to cut the long opposite side of the CP "straight" ... it was handheld (jigsaw) and deserves to spend a minute on the table saw :)

... OH! I also finally received the U360 LONG SHAFTS (well the missing "sleeves" pieces)... One remaining package to be delivered: ACT LABS Lightgun + USB/VGA Box :)


Stay tuned! Thanks again for all the great comments.
« Last Edit: September 19, 2007, 04:21:49 pm by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout + marquee!
« Reply #211 on: September 19, 2007, 10:57:23 pm »
**** UPDATE ****

(again, crappy phone pics... I *promise* to dig for my SLR camera again soon)


Control Panel:
. wood filled the trackball mount plate & small holes/imperfections of plywood
. used table saw to cut the top edge STRAIGHT
. sanded everything smooth (220)
. applied a coat of primer (mamemarquees.com's manual says to *not* stick artwork directly on wood)




... IF the primer is dry tonight... I may apply the CPO and start wiring everything final! WOOO

OH, and I have received the ACT LABS Lightgun! It's still in the package :)

leapinlew

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout + marquee!
« Reply #212 on: September 19, 2007, 11:26:07 pm »
Looking good! Prepare to sweat - putting on the CPO always made me nervous.

Keep up the good work and good documentation. I've enjoyed your build.

Zero_Hour

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout + marquee!
« Reply #213 on: September 20, 2007, 01:36:36 am »
I just want to put a quarter in that thing.

Just a total package sort of project ARTIFACT. Kudos.
"Paradise, is exactly like where you are right now - only much, MUCH better." -Laurie Anderson

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout + marquee!
« Reply #214 on: September 20, 2007, 03:48:49 pm »
mamemarquees cpo is printed nice but sticking it down is a NIGHTMARE

not only that, but the adhesive backing is peeling off the vinyl front (!) ... i will email scott to see if it was a adefect in the material... :(


more details later...

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/17: CP mounting + MaLa Layout + marquee!
« Reply #215 on: September 21, 2007, 02:52:32 am »
**** UPDATE: ALMOST DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ****

. CPO installed (it was HARD... my CPO may have a defect - will contact Scott about it)
. CP wired up!
. Long shafts for the U360 joysticks installed
. Act Labs lightgun plugged ... It keeps calibrating with an "offset" (on both X and Y, shy by ~100 pixels) ... mmhhh...

OF COURSE NEW PICS! :)

Inside the cab - pretty clean - tucked all the wires on the sides w/ electrical tape


More inside, this time the decased multisync 27" monitor ... I am DEFINITELY putting a cover on the back of the cab SOON


Wiring controls (Details)


Wiring controls (Overview) - link to large image
click here

Overviews




CP!


I owe you a DECENT picture of the marquee in action :)


Act Labs Lightgun (RED) ... Hoping that it will calibrate without an offset when I figure out what's up...



Is there anything left to do? YES:

. a new screen bezel (will use a black plastic sheet)
. back of the cab (cover w/ plywood)
. fans to cool down the cab (esp. with back cover)
. get the old coin mechs to work OR make up coin drop ducts with cardboard (seen on BYOAC)
« Last Edit: September 21, 2007, 02:56:33 am by ARTIFACT »

Akuma

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #216 on: September 21, 2007, 03:34:15 am »
It's coming together great! And a very clean wiring job! (should make it like that, too ; )

Just curious - do you plan to add side art to the cab in the future?

I am curious to see the final result! : )

javeryh

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #217 on: September 21, 2007, 09:23:21 am »
Holy crap.   :notworthy:

This cab is a stunner - I defintiely think it is because you had an attractive overall design and concept in mind and you executed perfectly.  Nice job!

Knievel

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #218 on: September 21, 2007, 02:40:18 pm »

Beautiful! Love the pic taken from the side, great curves :)

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #219 on: September 21, 2007, 03:02:14 pm »
Stunning! Congrats mate.  :cheers:

Lakersfan

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #220 on: September 21, 2007, 05:50:00 pm »
Nice work! You should be proud!! This whole project has kept me captivated from some time now! And I appreciate your reviews of the items you've bought along the way.

 :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #221 on: September 21, 2007, 10:05:58 pm »
Thanks guys!! It's definitely awesome to finally play on it with all the buttons working, artwork on, in its final location with the family.

One thing: my sound just stopped working this morning for some reason... Troubleshooting now... Me being new to soldering altogether may be the source of my problem ;)
I may redo the amp unit again if I can't get this one to work again... It was fine last night until I turned it all off :(

... Also figuring out if the gun is compatible with my setup... on email with the act labs guys about an offset problem.

psychotech

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #222 on: September 21, 2007, 10:24:22 pm »
Yes!

Love the funky profile! A really unique and good looking cab  :cheers:

And, yes, good work on the wiring too ;)

Sorry to hear, NO pun intended, about your audio problems.

Good luck finishing that great cab!

psychotech

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #223 on: September 22, 2007, 10:27:07 am »
OK the lightgun is driving me crazy
It DOES calibrate "ok" (with only 10 pixels offset .. acceptable) BUT ONLY 2 INCHES FROM THE SCREEN
... it does not calibrate at any other distance  (!)

SO

I am going to keep testing for a few more days (without plexiglass, etc) and I may give up and send it back (they have a good return policy).
If I do that, I will go and order the LCD TOPGUN (the "other" choice)... I may wait for one to show up on Ebay for sale in the US... I do NOT feel like ordering one from Hong Kong.
I really liked the design of the actlabs, and the elegance of its installation (no LED bars) :(

THE SOUND IS WORKING AGAIN :)
It was not my wiring skills, it was the fact that first the WAVE LEVEL was all the way down (!) and then it was that I mistakenly chose to use the wrong sound-card somehow.

That's the latest :)

My son and I are playing "Bang Bang Ball" right now... That's an excellent game for kids (not easy though!), FYI

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #224 on: September 23, 2007, 12:13:18 am »
Update regarding the ACT LABS lightgun:

the act labs guys suggested that the lighting in the room (6 very bright recessed flood bulbs!) were the source of my problem. I tried in the dark and WOW IT WORKS!!!

I had a great time at House of the Dead (Model2 emu)

In MAME, BIG problem... it seems that it aims OK but the gun's button is NOT working.... The screen flashes, but it does not trigger the Button 1 in MAME ... Any idea?


There is still an offset, in 1 direction (vertically), but it is playable. I think I may fix this by playing with my monitor stretching pots... They also mentioned that having too high contrast on the monitor can do that. I will play with that too


We had friends over tonight, and the cab was a HUGE SUCCESS! :)

Again THANK YOU ALL for the amazing support, ideas, thoughts, searchable posts on BYOAC, and everything else throughout this project. You made it possible.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2007, 12:55:44 am by ARTIFACT »

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #225 on: September 23, 2007, 02:32:22 am »
Try to squash all the remaining bugs now, while your energy level / enthusiasm is still high.  The things you don't get to now, will probably nag you for months to come.

Looks great.  It feels good to see your friends and family enjoying the fruits of your labor, doesn't it.

stephenp1983

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #226 on: September 23, 2007, 08:55:59 am »
Looking really good, how are the u360s working out for you.  You just have the soft spring in yours right?

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #227 on: September 23, 2007, 11:52:16 am »
Reminds me, I should type a more formal list of "reviews" for the things I have gotten and people I have done business with throughout this project:

I love love looove the U360 sticks... AS-IS! Standard! Regular (soft I guess) springs, NO restrictors. So smooth. OK it's "different" from the SF2 sticks you may be used to, but the advantage of being able to play TRUE 2/4/8/49/analog/45-rotated games without EVER getting "stuck" is just WELL WORTH the getting over the smoothness/softness and longer throw.

One of our friends was a long time SF2 and Capcom vs Marvel player, and had NO problems throwing Tiger Punches (and the others) over and over when we played... THAT was the test for me, as I have gotten used to the sticks and may be biased ;)... his comment was "It just feels so natural and comfortable"

theCoder: DEFINITELY :) ... I have experienced the "playable too early" phenomenon in the beginning, and had to put the X-Arcade CP away in the box to FORCE myself to make progress on the REAL CP and the rest of the cab ... best advice ever.

I also LOVE THE TURBO TWIST 2 SPINNER. Randy @ GroovyGameGear.com is AWESOME and spent a ton of time typing PMs back and forth to answer all my questions :) ... Highly recommended. I also got the LED MATRIX marquee light from him and looove it too.

Same with the USB TRACKBALL (some people were worried about a "lag"). The NEWER batches have a "second generation encoder", as Divemaster127 told me... There are no issues whatsoever with it, and DM charged only ~$90 if I remember correctly.

VERY happy with Divemaster127 too BTW, do go order from him if you need anything. He was really cool with returns (I first got Mag Stick Plus's and didn't like them, and also have to return the restrictor and spring kits for the U360s).

THANKS! Gotta figure out how to get MAME to register the gun trigger as P1 Button 1 now... I'm sure it's easy... SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!!! ;)

WCBoudreaux

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #228 on: September 23, 2007, 02:06:06 pm »
WOW! That's a slick cabinet... Very impressive... You really know how to take a peice of wood, and turn it into a work of art... As soon as you're 100% complete, you can come over and help me with mine! hehehe

Great job! :cheers:

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - CPO (ALMOST DONE!)
« Reply #229 on: September 25, 2007, 12:44:11 am »
Thank you :)

A few more pics... for the road ;)










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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - 99% complete
« Reply #230 on: September 25, 2007, 04:35:19 pm »
Wow, the end result turns out great.   :applaud:

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - 99% complete
« Reply #231 on: September 26, 2007, 12:26:00 am »
If you haven't come up with an ideal for that lighting your awesome blue trackball I would highly recommend this product. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=51658.0

I couldn't believe the difference when I installed mine. I'm using the single adjustable blue led and it puts off such a nice even blue glow.

My old user name was marlborroman13, but I kicked the habit many years ago!

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - 99% complete
« Reply #232 on: September 26, 2007, 10:41:23 am »
ah very cool didn't know about that product!

I am pretty happy with the light the current Happ LED Kit puts out though. It DOES mount the LED sideways, which is not the ideal (no straight up like the product you linked to).

AMDman13

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - 99% complete
« Reply #233 on: September 27, 2007, 12:17:57 am »
Quote
I am pretty happy with the light the current Happ LED Kit puts out though.

Nice, I was unaware of Happ having any LED's for there trackball. Now I learned something too! Anyway, your Cab is SWEET!
My old user name was marlborroman13, but I kicked the habit many years ago!

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - 99% complete
« Reply #234 on: September 27, 2007, 12:57:17 am »
hey guys, I'm new to BYOC too.  Didn't have enough time to read all the posts so it might have been covered already, but are you going to add side art to your machine?  Killer job though, looks factory professional!!

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - 99% complete
« Reply #235 on: September 27, 2007, 10:20:26 am »
no side art on this one, no
:)

its in the family room, that would have been too much



WHAT IS LEFT TO DO:
---------------------------

. Screen bezel (will build one out of plastic sheets
. Back panels of cab
. add 2 or 3 fans in the back ... blow cool air in, blow hot air out
. replace broken coin mechs with custom coin chutes/sleeves (use cardboard, like I've seen done on BYOAC)
. (maybe) add pinball buttons
. Get 2 bar stools :)

Bugs to iron out:
. figure out this lightgun button issue... Model2 and PC games work great
. find a way to get focus on Future Pinball when launched from MaLa
« Last Edit: September 28, 2007, 12:34:58 am by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - 99% complete
« Reply #236 on: September 29, 2007, 02:16:19 pm »
**** LIGHTGUN ISSUE IN MAME FIXED! ****

My ACT LABS works in MAME 119 now!

I was moving the gun while trying to assign the trigger to Button 1
Simply keeping the gun from moving while pressing the trigger did the trick.

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** UPDATE 9/20 - 99% complete
« Reply #237 on: October 27, 2007, 11:20:15 pm »
****************** GIFTS FOR THE COMMUNITY *******************

. FULL plans of the project (Sketchup project file)
. ARCADE COMPONENTS (Sketchup models / components)


(SORRY: NO SUPPORT for these files... you are on your own... I am super busy... If you understand Sketchup, all you need is in the files)




Attaching the 2 files to this post!

Merry (early) Christmas everyone.
ENJOY

-ARTIFACT

PS: use the "tape measure" tool in Sketchup to take ANY measurement in my project file... This tool is your new best friend... Because of it, I did not make ANY bad cut (!) throughout.
« Last Edit: October 27, 2007, 11:25:43 pm by ARTIFACT »

Bender

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** 10/27 ** GIFTS: Sketchup PLANS + Components!!!
« Reply #238 on: October 28, 2007, 01:16:42 am »
Thanks so much!
It  is very generous of you to share your incredible work! :applaud:
I've made most of the components already but I'm really glad I can use your awesome cherry switch and casters, those files will be a big help to put the finishing touches on my sketch up layout.
as I said in my project thread I'll post all my sketch up components when the project is done (or at least close, are they ever really done?)

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68865.0
« Last Edit: October 28, 2007, 01:28:19 am by Bender »

dmworking247

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** 10/27 ** GIFTS: Sketchup PLANS + Components!!!
« Reply #239 on: October 28, 2007, 06:49:55 am »
This is the first time I've seen this thread, and let me just say its projects like these that make me want to hack apart my upright and do it from scratch.

Either you're a master photographer (even with your camera phone) or your wood crafting skills put most others to shame. Well done, an awesome cab that I'd even consider buying (and to me, its all about the build not the end result... so thats saying something)

Jimbo

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** 10/27 ** GIFTS: Sketchup PLANS + Components!!!
« Reply #240 on: October 28, 2007, 06:51:38 am »
Hey Artifact,

Thanks from me also.  I too have most of the components done already, but I'm sure I can use a few of yours! :)  I'll too be posting all my Sketchup plans for my project when its nearer to being complete!

Neverending Project

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** 10/27 ** GIFTS: Sketchup PLANS + Components!!!
« Reply #241 on: November 14, 2007, 03:33:56 pm »
I wanted to make sure I add another hat tip to Artifact. I have modeled my conversion cabinet in sketchup so I could build a new CP, and make other modifications as necessary. With your models, I will save a lot of time on the CP - thanks!

I will post my plans as well, once I have the new CP designed. Since there is no hat tipping smiley, have a  :applaud: and a  :cheers:.

Thanks!
NP

ARTIFACT

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Re: ** ARTIFACT Game Museum ** 10/27 ** GIFTS: Sketchup PLANS + Components!!!
« Reply #242 on: January 30, 2008, 04:20:28 pm »
A few months later, the ARTIFACT GAME MUSEUM standup arcade machine is performing flawlessly!!!

My 5 year old and a friend, enjoying it a ton - the MALA menu is totally awesome... ALL controlled from the joysticks and trackball... NO maintenance / troubleshooting... it really feels like a dedicated "appliance" now.




He rocks at Ms Pac Man, Donkey Kong, and many others...

One great game I recommend is TETRIS ATTACK on SNES...
Excellent 2 player game, great for kids AND adults.
Oh, and the JURASSIC PARK game (lightgun)... For kids, just enable the infinite lives cheat, and they just LOVE the ride thru all the dinosaurs... My kid just uses the trackball and shoots like crazy :)

Take care guys... Anyone using my SKETCHUP PLAN / COMPONENTS yet?
« Last Edit: January 30, 2008, 04:23:23 pm by ARTIFACT »

ARTIFACT

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