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| ChadTower:
Yes. Move the switches closer or farther from the center = longer or shorter throw. |
| Xiaou2:
Ok, another thing to note... If you try to restrict a long joystick such as this with only Micro-switches... you will quickly find out that the switches will be destroyed in a few moments time. Micros are not housed in heavy duty steel boxes. Instead, they are a simple thin plastic shell that has 2 half's that fit together. While they seem fairly strong in your hands... they do not hold up to such crushing forces as a leveraged shaft that has some Ummph on it. Again, this is also something I speak on from experience. To properly restrict such a device, you will need a thick and durable material. Maybe almost a cm in thickness... or if done in pairs (one on top, and one on bottom...) half cm each might work. The material must be strong, yet not too brittle that it will crack. Many large sticks use a hard rubber mounted in a heavy duty metal framework. Nylon might be something that would work good actually (rollerblade wheels). The hard rubber material will absorb heavy forces, yet isnt too soft. As if was too soft, wouldnt restrict well enough. Its material is flexible enough that it wont crack either... nor will it destroy the shaft as they collide with each other repeatedly. Many such joys also used Leaf switches. These are much more forgiving if the restrict device fails... as the leafs can over-bend without damages that would occur to microswitches. If you still wish to use micros and fear that the restrict device may not be accurate enough,, (or may fail over time, or pushed too hard..) you might be able to make a spring loaded mounting for the micros... so that they rest in the proper place... yet if pushed too far, will slide backwards to keep from breaking apart. --- Ohh, I forgot to add.... that even of you have a very strong restriction device... you still have to worry about the joystick's enclosure too. If there is too much force on it, it will bend and or crack. Mounting the restrict device may weaken the structure more.. or may put additional forces in areas that are not strong enough, and not meant (wont) to support them. A solid heavy duty frame might have to be built to keep the thing frame tearing itself apart. Maybe you can mount the restrictor device to the actual joystick mounting holes. With longer bolts, you should be able to lock them down securely enough. |
| ark_ader:
--- Quote from: shorthair on June 20, 2007, 07:26:16 pm ---I got this stick recently: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=67719.msg687298#msg687298 For the time-being, I just mounted it to the upper right corner of my panel. However, the suction cups are that kind of shiny, finished-looking rubber, and they only stick to super smooth surfaces, like glass or plexi, so I used some Elmer's glue underneath them and some pressure for a few moments. After drying, the stick is now very secure to the panel. First off, I think this stick is a great potential candidate. The problem arises with the amount of play and the sensitivity. It doesn't take much for it to move Tron, and I'm constantly trying to keep myself from falling off the disc, particularly backward. Another point against it is it works in Windows, and will manipulate any other screens you have maximized but underneath, causing some issues. I'm not sure how to change this, cos the drivers cd appears to be blank, so I'm stuck with the generic Win driver. A point for it is you can use the hat switch for up and down firing, though I've found it works better to reverse the directions relative to button press. This might just be a personal thing, but I find if I'm moving forward and trying to aim down, I press the hat switch up, kind of like a plane flies - stick forward, you fly down, etc. And then you have the three buttons on the stick to pick from for deflect - which you could also put as a direction of the hat switch. So, I'm still messing with it. I have to find a way to restrict it. For those of you interested in removing the guts and putting it in a panel, you could probably if you have a metal one. Not with wood, cos the stick shaft is too short. --- End quote --- Guess you didn't find the PC Line I used for Tron and DOT. Shame, its so MUCH better than a normal flight stick. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=67274.msg682174#msg682174 |
| Xiaou2:
DOT PEDAL While some people have the Push/Pull spinner.. they are pretty expensive. Also, they really dont control too well, as Recently, I played a DOT environmental, and found that it was a real pain to try to aim the disc, and aim the height of the shot with the same controller... So, to solve this... its very simple... A Pedal control. You can made a pedal that is springs back to a center position instead of the typical gas pedal which is sprung to only one side. By mapping the up/down in mame to use this, and adding a big enough 'dead-zone', one should be able to really control the up/down aiming much more easily and accurately. (or you could buy a flight pedal set.. as they are not sprung to either axis) Furthermore, if you didnt have a flightstick... you could also use the pedal to activate button presses. This could work well for games that used limited fire functionality. (Of course, not on DOT, because then you could not use the aim up/down) |
| shorthair:
ark_ader: I looked but didn't find it. I don't recall you giving a brand name so I didn't come up with anything. I think the problem with any of these is the play in them, and if they aren't centred then they will move some direction and in this kind of setting you're always having to compensate for this. I think afterburner and maybe some others (games I don't play often but the stick was cheap so worth putting them to) used analog sticks so I'll use it for that. Easier to just get an original type digital flight stick. Which I did. Xiaou2: actually, Mame is supposed to be able to use the trackball in DOT, hence the vertical axis for up and down shooting. I swear it worked a long time ago, but it isn't now, regardless of Mame version. Kinda a bummer. But, you'd want the pedal to do the normal graduation so you could actually aim specifically vs letting up in either direction relative to where you're wanting to aim. The trackball function facilitates (or faciliated) this. |
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