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Tron-like flight stick
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Justin Z:
I was kind of thinking the same thing, just use a massive restrictor so the angle down there barely has to change to register a touch on the switch.
shorthair:
If using switches, it's not just a matter of shaft restriction but proximity of the switches. Ultimately, if the switches are close enough, one wouldn't need a restrictor. Hey, that's what's needed - a way to alter the switch proximity on sticks, in general. I'm still thinking about something for something like the Ultrastick...but that would require a mechanical complexity. Perhaps something like those metal vegetable steamers that have a perforated flat part, and then flanges surrounding that overlap one another and closing them toward the middle makes a smaller and smaller circle in the centre.
ChadTower:

Simpler... rather than a screw hole, put a slot that allows you to tighten the screw anywhere within a 1-1.5" range.  Then you can manually tweak your switch distance any way you like.
MinerAl:
If it's a MacSense F-108 or 106 (I can't remember which), I hacked one onto a super a long time ago.

let's see if I can find the posts... 

edit: here's the first post in the thread from 2003: 


--- Quote from: MinerAl on June 24, 2003, 11:45:37 pm ---Same general idea as the Raider hack, but this one is a Macsense FunStick Pro F-108 handle grafted to a Happs Super with a 3/8" (couldn't find 1cm) steel tube. 

(the blue part is about 6" long)

I have yet to make the trigger and buttons functional.  There are fewer wires coming out than I would expect for a hat and 4 buttons (3 thumb and one trigger).  I would expect 4 from the hat, 4 from the buttons and 1 ground, but I've only got 6 wires total. 

Either the hat is sending code down 1 and the 5 others are 4 buttons and 1 ground, or the hat is 4, all the buttons share 1, and 1 ground.

I'll figure that out tomorrow.

If it's wired wacky, I may remove the opaque blue plastic card with the hat and the 2 round buttons on it, replacing it with a graphic similar to the Tron logo, then just wire up the thumb and trigger manually (oy! soldering!).

I'll make a little how-to if anybody's interested.

I'm VERY pleased with how solid the whole thing came out.  No wiggle, and I used an original way to keep it from twisting (which I will reveal once I make sure it works).

My only problem is that there's no room for this on my present cabinet.  Dang, I'm gonna have to start another one!


--- End quote ---

Looks like you have a F-106, which has the same internal structure (I've half hacked one) and can be done as easily as the F-108.  Megamacs.com has these regularly for <$10.

Never have finished my TRON CP...

Here's pics:







shorthair:
Yeah, I figured it would be something like that. I think there's a hack in the wiki and the solution for keeping the stick from turning was to cut a notch in the base and bore a hole in the shaft and insert a stud or something. On the wiring, I have a PC wheel I was going to hack and found out it was very strangely wired, so I'm curious what you find.

Chad: I didn't give an idea for a switched stick. Maybe more than one hole?
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