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| Justin Z:
I was kind of thinking the same thing, just use a massive restrictor so the angle down there barely has to change to register a touch on the switch. |
| shorthair:
If using switches, it's not just a matter of shaft restriction but proximity of the switches. Ultimately, if the switches are close enough, one wouldn't need a restrictor. Hey, that's what's needed - a way to alter the switch proximity on sticks, in general. I'm still thinking about something for something like the Ultrastick...but that would require a mechanical complexity. Perhaps something like those metal vegetable steamers that have a perforated flat part, and then flanges surrounding that overlap one another and closing them toward the middle makes a smaller and smaller circle in the centre. |
| ChadTower:
Simpler... rather than a screw hole, put a slot that allows you to tighten the screw anywhere within a 1-1.5" range. Then you can manually tweak your switch distance any way you like. |
| MinerAl:
If it's a MacSense F-108 or 106 (I can't remember which), I hacked one onto a super a long time ago. let's see if I can find the posts... edit: here's the first post in the thread from 2003: --- Quote from: MinerAl on June 24, 2003, 11:45:37 pm ---Same general idea as the Raider hack, but this one is a Macsense FunStick Pro F-108 handle grafted to a Happs Super with a 3/8" (couldn't find 1cm) steel tube. (the blue part is about 6" long) I have yet to make the trigger and buttons functional. There are fewer wires coming out than I would expect for a hat and 4 buttons (3 thumb and one trigger). I would expect 4 from the hat, 4 from the buttons and 1 ground, but I've only got 6 wires total. Either the hat is sending code down 1 and the 5 others are 4 buttons and 1 ground, or the hat is 4, all the buttons share 1, and 1 ground. I'll figure that out tomorrow. If it's wired wacky, I may remove the opaque blue plastic card with the hat and the 2 round buttons on it, replacing it with a graphic similar to the Tron logo, then just wire up the thumb and trigger manually (oy! soldering!). I'll make a little how-to if anybody's interested. I'm VERY pleased with how solid the whole thing came out. No wiggle, and I used an original way to keep it from twisting (which I will reveal once I make sure it works). My only problem is that there's no room for this on my present cabinet. Dang, I'm gonna have to start another one! --- End quote --- Looks like you have a F-106, which has the same internal structure (I've half hacked one) and can be done as easily as the F-108. Megamacs.com has these regularly for <$10. Never have finished my TRON CP... Here's pics: |
| shorthair:
Yeah, I figured it would be something like that. I think there's a hack in the wiki and the solution for keeping the stick from turning was to cut a notch in the base and bore a hole in the shaft and insert a stud or something. On the wiring, I have a PC wheel I was going to hack and found out it was very strangely wired, so I'm curious what you find. Chad: I didn't give an idea for a switched stick. Maybe more than one hole? |
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