Author Topic: FINALLY! Star Wars Cockpit Measurements (Read 44538 times)

rovingmind · « **Reply #40 on:** May 15, 2007, 09:42:38 am »

Quote from: HoopstarsGarage on May 15, 2007, 09:18:52 am

Quote from: rovingmind on May 15, 2007, 09:15:16 am
where do you live???
Australia...

Can you imagine how much it's cost to get this crap down here???

Hoops

not quite, i'm still in shock over the last piece i had shipped here.

rovingmind · « **Reply #41 on:** May 15, 2007, 11:53:06 am »

dimension request please, triangulation to be used for calculating all the various angles of the large flat pieces.

Can you please measure these points? (turquoise lines)

modessitt · « **Reply #42 on:** May 16, 2007, 03:28:51 am »

Okay, I'll try to get to it tomorrow if I have time. If not, then thurs for sure. I can definately get the setbacks on Thursday. Tomorrow is supposed to be a full day so not sure how much time I'll have....

rovingmind · « **Reply #43 on:** May 16, 2007, 08:35:07 am »

thats fine. I know real work has to take precedent. Thats why my wife has paint on her new walls and i dont have my main computer together yet.

HoopstarsGarage · « **Reply #44 on:** May 16, 2007, 08:45:49 am »

There is a MASSIVE difference between "real work" and work requested by our wives

One we do to earn a living, the other we do to stay out of trouble

Hoops

patrickl · « **Reply #45 on:** May 16, 2007, 11:01:53 am »

How can you be sure the triangulation measurements are correct when there are only rounded corners (ie points to measue between don't actually exist)

ChadTower · « **Reply #46 on:** May 16, 2007, 11:13:41 am »

That could be a matter of closest possible result. It probably doesn't really matter if the plans are a half inch off in side shape.

Too bad he won't have the cab longer, he could take a template from the side for full accuracy.

rovingmind · « **Reply #47 on:** May 16, 2007, 12:36:27 pm »

Quote from: patrickl on May 16, 2007, 11:01:53 am

How can you be sure the triangulation measurements are correct when there are only rounded corners (ie points to measue between don't actually exist)

He says he extended the lines to where they would be if they crossed instead of an arc. Easily done with a pair of 12" school rulers. This gives us between 1/16" to 1/4" accuracy. Since we do not have a cabinet to take full outlines off of, (even though the request has been sent out to people with cabs in states of dissassembly) this is the next best thing. If the initlial outline looks good, i'm going to do a fullsize layout. If not i'll print a poster sized side image and scale it up to verify. For the rounded corners i'm going to use a french curve to pick a radius that most closely matches.

I have the artwork files coming at some point along with high-res piece scans of the corners, i can figure the angles from those if it comes down to it. They were taken by arcadeguy, he set the scanner right on the cabinet to take the scans. I would rather not work straight off his scans since he does not have complete coverage posted that i could get.

This may not be the closest set of plans available but its going to be as close as possible without actually tearing one completely apart and using the sides to make patterns from.

I'm extremely confident in Modessitts ability to get accurate dimensions based on seeing some of the other cabinet projects he's helped gather them for and posted.

ChadTower · « **Reply #48 on:** May 16, 2007, 01:12:39 pm »

You wouldn't have to tear it apart to get a side template. You could just turn it onto its side.

rovingmind · « **Reply #49 on:** May 16, 2007, 01:23:30 pm »

you would for the canopy beam and seat panels.

heck for the sides i'm thinking go all out and lay a sheet of luan on there, clamp in place and route a template.

i'd pay for the luan.

Although a sheet off a roll of painters paper would work well for tracing out the sides. double side tape to hold it in place and outline the machine using an exacto knife. third set of hands holding the paper so it doesnt slip. that way the cutter only has to guide the knife and can worry about not slicing up the t-molding.

ChadTower · « **Reply #50 on:** May 16, 2007, 01:42:22 pm »

The canopy beam and seat panels could easily be calculated from measurements. The side panels are fairly complex, though, so I'd say using a router template would be the most accurate way to go. Those raised panels would be a problem, though.

rovingmind · « **Reply #51 on:** May 16, 2007, 01:59:41 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on May 16, 2007, 01:42:22 pm

The canopy beam and seat panels could easily be calculated from measurements. The side panels are fairly complex, though, so I'd say using a router template would be the most accurate way to go. Those raised panels would be a problem, though.

not really he said at the beginning its a built up 3 piece. the outside panel is cut through, the middle panel holds the artwork and the inside panel provides support for the plexi and the ends are the contact surface. would have to use a straight edge measure the offset to get the angle.

If a router template was made for the outside panel complete with cutouts 4 of the 6 panels could be cut with it.

which reminds me, were the cutout dimensions to the outside or the inside of the cutout?

ChadTower · « **Reply #52 on:** May 16, 2007, 02:05:59 pm »

Quote from: rovingmind on May 16, 2007, 01:59:41 pm

not really he said at the beginning its a built up 3 piece. the outside panel is cut through, the middle panel holds the artwork and the inside panel provides support for the plexi and the ends are the contact surface. would have to use a straight edge measure the offset to get the angle.

Right, but what I'm saying, is that it would make it hard to just flush trim a template with a router, seeing as how the side isn't completely flat. It would be more work, that's all.

rovingmind · « **Reply #53 on:** May 16, 2007, 02:35:00 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on May 16, 2007, 02:05:59 pm

Quote from: rovingmind on May 16, 2007, 01:59:41 pm
not really he said at the beginning its a built up 3 piece. the outside panel is cut through, the middle panel holds the artwork and the inside panel provides support for the plexi and the ends are the contact surface. would have to use a straight edge measure the offset to get the angle.

Right, but what I'm saying, is that it would make it hard to just flush trim a template with a router, seeing as how the side isn't completely flat. It would be more work, that's all.

very true

That will perhaps have to be up to whoever is actually doing the building of their cabinets. for me when it gets to that point it will be beveled. It just wouldn't look right for it not to be. Sadly quite a few people probably wouldn't even notice.

modessitt · « **Reply #54 on:** May 16, 2007, 06:32:37 pm »

Quote

which reminds me, were the cutout dimensions to the outside or the inside of the cutout?

The dimensions were of the actual art inside the hole, or as you put it, the inside edge of the cut-outs. Probably the best way to do it would be to produce the art to the exact size it's supposed to be. Lay (don't stick) it on the outer piece of the canopy (with it clamped to the middle piece to make sure the alignment and placing are accurate, and trace the shape of the art onto the outer piece. Then unclamp and cut the shapes out of the outer piece. Verify the size is a very close fit (perhaps a tiny bit small and trim the art to fit). Then just route a beveled edge - angled out - around the holes. Paint all three side pieces black. Route t-molding grooves in them and install t-molding. Clamp them together in perfect alignment and drill holes for mounting screws from the inside (probably 2" screws) all around to make sure they stay together nice and tight. Figure out how to mount it to the rest of the cab.

Since it was almost impossible to remove the canopy without damaging the rest of the cab (due to stresses from internal nailing), it would probably be a good idea to take some design liberties and figure out a way to atttach the canopy so that it can be removed easily, while maintaining the illusion that it is just as solidly attached as the original. It might also be beneficial for moving if the same was done to make the seat assembly detachable as well, especially since it appears that way from outside. Actually have to look at the bottom to see that it is all one piece...

As for lying the cab on it's side for exact measurements, it's easier said than done, especially with a game worth a couple grand that doesn't belong to me. And some minor (and major in one spot) corner damage would still throw off an "exact" tracing, even if my hand was steady enough when cutting to get good results anyway. (I can just see trying to get underneath the feet area to trace the side covered up by it.)

rovingmind · « **Reply #55 on:** May 16, 2007, 06:51:15 pm »

the bottom is a one piece box. I can email you photos of the bottom dissassembled

ChadTower · « **Reply #56 on:** May 16, 2007, 07:44:05 pm »

If it's for home use, you could do something as simple as use velcro for the canopy. No one is going to vandalize it in your basement.

rovingmind · « **Reply #57 on:** May 16, 2007, 08:13:16 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on May 16, 2007, 07:44:05 pm

If it's for home use, you could do something as simple as use velcro for the canopy. No one is going to vandalize it in your basement.

i wouldn't use velcro, but with a little planning a modification to the box would be possible to split the front and back sections. the canopy beams could be made moderately removable using t-nuts and hex headed bolts instead of nails and internal attachments. the only visible additions would be the rounded bolt heads. A change to the canopy edges would involve a series of retaining screws (black anodized) to make the canopy one piece. It already has a cross brace for strength and that would make the entire cabinet able to be taken apart for moving in approximately 15 minutes including ciggarette break. A molex connector would be used at the bottom cabinet joint for the speaker and marquee light connection. ideally a waterproof automotive style connector would be better for that.

How much interested would there be in this modification to the bottom box? The visible modifications would be 2 - 4 bolts (black headed) at the cabinet base, series of small screws on the sides of the plexi canopy, 4 bolts per side of the canopy (also black allen headed bolts). the bolts would go in and tighten to T-nuts. There would also be an extra castor in the middles of the two bottom bases. This might actually increase the usuable lifespan of the cockpit by adding support to the middle.

Hmm might just do this for myself anyway.

edit:
linkto andysarcade photos of a dissassembled cabinet showing the base

modessitt · « **Reply #58 on:** May 16, 2007, 11:59:57 pm »

You wouldn't have to make the bolts visible with some different planning...

You could make it "fit" together like the seat assembly on sitdown racers do, with a "male" end that fits into a "female" end. Have it bolt INSIDE the cab with access under the feet panel. Make the feet panel removable by attaching with an internal (hidden) hinge on one end and countersunk bolts that are set beneath the metal strips already on the sides of the feet panel.

Worth thinking about.....maybe......

Zeppo · « **Reply #59 on:** May 17, 2007, 08:07:34 am »

Ok, so who is going to make out a parts list and building instructions complete with diagrams and measurements now?

My wife actually thinks this would be a cool project, and if she thinks so, then that is saying something.

Havok · « **Reply #60 on:** May 17, 2007, 08:14:39 am »

Quote from: Zeppo on May 17, 2007, 08:07:34 am

Ok, so who is going to make out a parts list and building instructions complete with diagrams and measurements now?

My wife actually thinks this would be a cool project, and if she thinks so, then that is saying something.

If you wait long enough, Ram Controls will be working on this. He will even be offering kits eventually. However, considering how long it is taking for his repro Star Wars yoke, that may be some time indeed...

rovingmind · « **Reply #61 on:** May 17, 2007, 08:34:36 am »

Um....... dude. Thats what this current project is about. making building plans. Its a multi part project.
The dimensions are being procured and posted here for all, thankfully, by modesitt.

My post is covering a plans file.

Cad layouts of the side panels will be made available as dxf files. We have the thickness of the panel material and outside dimensions of the access panels so with setbacks an accurate 3d model can be made to calculate their edge angles.

For this part of the project the end result is going to be a cad package and possibly an eps or pdf file to print patterns out on a plotter for the complex side panels. Take to the local kinkos and print full scale for the sides. (for that part i will probably have to pull a favor from my brother-inlaw)

unclet · « **Reply #62 on:** May 17, 2007, 08:44:03 am »

Possibly "eps" and "pdf" files both could be produced ......

rovingmind · « **Reply #63 on:** May 17, 2007, 08:57:30 am »

Quote from: modessitt on May 16, 2007, 11:59:57 pm

You wouldn't have to make the bolts visible with some different planning...

You could make it "fit" together like the seat assembly on sitdown racers do, with a "male" end that fits into a "female" end. Have it bolt INSIDE the cab with access under the feet panel. Make the feet panel removable by attaching with an internal (hidden) hinge on one end and countersunk bolts that are set beneath the metal strips already on the sides of the feet panel.

Worth thinking about.....maybe......

I havn't had the luxury of taking one of them apart. Does anybody have a picture of it?
That would actually work rather well.

I just looked at andy's pictures of the base.
The foot panel would have to have relief angles on the front and back edges and be a two peice to take into account the slanting of the seat base. A thin piece to bring the edge of the removable one directly under the outer most edge of the seat so it would be able to arc out. Their would be a seam there but it would work well. It could easily be hidden under a rubber floor mat and retain with pop-in locks. (like speaker grill pegs or dzus fasteners) The rubber mat could then just overlay over the thinner section making it completely smooth. For a non-commercial installation rubber cement or velcro. I would probably break down and just leave a thin seam there. In the long run the rubber flap would tear loose. I would rather have a thin seam then change the angles of the seat base.

A much neater option. Good call. the part with the monitor and hardware section would be the only part that actually needed an extra caster i think. the seat section should be light enough to just slip in place if a pair of guide pins were used to locate it for reattaching.

rovingmind · « **Reply #64 on:** May 17, 2007, 08:58:56 am »

Quote from: unclet on May 17, 2007, 08:44:03 am

Possibly "eps" and "pdf" files both could be produced ......

That would depend on how much i could talk him into doing. Illustrator files could also be a possibility.

ChadTower · « **Reply #65 on:** May 17, 2007, 09:05:47 am »

Quote from: rovingmind on May 16, 2007, 08:13:16 pm

i wouldn't use velcro, but with a little planning a modification to the box would be possible to split the front and back sections.

I was thinking canopy meant the plexiglass only.

Zeppo · « **Reply #66 on:** May 17, 2007, 09:50:51 am »

Quote from: rovingmind on May 17, 2007, 08:34:36 am

Um....... dude. Thats what this current project is about. making building plans. Its a multi part project.
The dimensions are being procured and posted here for all, thankfully, by modesitt.

My post is covering a plans file.

Cad layouts of the side panels will be made available as dxf files. We have the thickness of the panel material and outside dimensions of the access panels so with setbacks an accurate 3d model can be made to calculate their edge angles.

For this part of the project the end result is going to be a cad package and possibly an eps or pdf file to print patterns out on a plotter for the complex side panels. Take to the local kinkos and print full scale for the sides. (for that part i will probably have to pull a favor from my brother-inlaw)

That's great.
That's what I was hoping for, but sometimes people will just take the information and not share with those of us who don't know anything about reverse-engineering something.

Now given some plans and measurements I could build it, but no way I could ever make the plans from a built model.

Great job, and thanks for all the hard work.

rovingmind · « **Reply #67 on:** May 17, 2007, 11:53:36 am »

Quote from: ChadTower on May 17, 2007, 09:05:47 am

Quote from: rovingmind on May 16, 2007, 08:13:16 pm
i wouldn't use velcro, but with a little planning a modification to the box would be possible to split the front and back sections.

I was thinking canopy meant the plexiglass only.

I'm considering the canopy as the entire piece including the plexi and the beams. Thats just me though.

rovingmind · « **Reply #68 on:** May 17, 2007, 01:55:03 pm »

link

handles on ebay 7 hours to go

HoopstarsGarage · « **Reply #69 on:** May 17, 2007, 11:05:11 pm »

Quote from: rovingmind on May 17, 2007, 01:55:03 pm

link

handles on ebay 7 hours to go

Went for $53..!!

The same buyer bought the Yoke cover for $77.00 - the guy has rocks in his head.

Hoops

rovingmind · « **Reply #70 on:** May 18, 2007, 09:19:20 am »

Quote from: HoopstarsGarage on May 17, 2007, 11:05:11 pm

Quote from: rovingmind on May 17, 2007, 01:55:03 pm
link

handles on ebay 7 hours to go
Went for $53..!!

The same buyer bought the Yoke cover for $77.00 - the guy has rocks in his head.

yeah, i think i'll just keep tabs on ram controls....

Hoops

modessitt · « **Reply #71 on:** May 21, 2007, 10:29:08 pm »

Just a quick note to let everyone know I haven't forgotten. Have done a few more measurements, but still need to get the setbacks done. I'll try to get them done this week.

In the meantime, ran across this SW cockpit art. Don't know if anyone has seen it before. Price is $300 for 10 pieces (both sides of front, back, and canopy):

http://www.mamemarquees.com/starwars-cockpit-sideart-p-402.html

rovingmind · « **Reply #72 on:** May 22, 2007, 08:42:10 am »

Quote from: modessitt on May 21, 2007, 10:29:08 pm

In the meantime, ran across this SW cockpit art. Don't know if anyone has seen it before. Price is $300 for 10 pieces (both sides of front, back, and canopy):

http://www.mamemarquees.com/starwars-cockpit-sideart-p-402.html

Thank you for the update.

I've seen that artwork post before but havn't the funds to consider it at this time. Ram controls - yoke comes first, apres cabinet construction.

rovingmind · « **Reply #73 on:** May 29, 2007, 05:02:04 pm »

tiny bump, project is still alive

Level42 · « **Reply #74 on:** July 03, 2007, 06:27:37 am »

Modessitt, what did you have to work on on this cab ? Did you have to repair it and if so what ?

I bought a SW cockpit very recently and so I'm interesed in you experiences.

Is think this is a 25" am I right ?

I also wonder what that big green PCB is where the connectors are put on the side. On my cab, the connectors are straight on the PCB !

BrentRadio · « **Reply #75 on:** July 03, 2007, 06:07:40 pm »

That green board is an EMI shield, mandated by the government. It has no effect on the game so it's not needed. Might as well keep it to keep the game complete, but if you don't have it you won't even notice.

See page 67 here:

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Star_Wars_Cockpit/Star_Wars_Cockpit_TM-245_1st_Printing.pdf

Brent

rovingmind · « **Reply #76 on:** December 09, 2014, 04:05:11 am »

Can somebody measure the setback where i've put the red A?

ark_ader · « **Reply #77 on:** December 09, 2014, 05:00:11 am »

Is there room for a 737 flight simulator in there?

rovingmind · « **Reply #78 on:** December 10, 2014, 02:15:59 am »

Theres not even enough room for me in there.

For that setback (the red A in the picture below) (after playing with the 2002 side scans of the cabinet to get angle measurements) I came out to 10 1/2" for that setback. However, my overall height ended up being 54 1/3" and length of the bottom section where he shows 31, i get 31 1/3. The cad plan thats floating around shows an overall cabinet length of 56 1/2" where as Modessit measured it at 56" across the base. I seem to be ending up just over halfway between the 2 measurements.

Can anybody verify overall length and or that setback length so i can see how far off I am?

rovingmind · « **Reply #79 on:** December 10, 2014, 05:05:22 am »

After going through and laying it up by hand with a protractor and ruler at 1/8 scale, i plugged dimensions into sketchup to see what lengths i'm coming up with and how far i'm off.

as close as i can get making sure i've got the angles as close as i can get them for the bezel, control panel area i end up with a main body panel height of only 53 25/64" with a bottom length of 30 25/64.

Here is the sketchup file if anybody would chime in.

I'm measuring the inside top cab corner where the canopy attaches as an angle of 87 degrees. is that correct or should it be a 90 there?


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