Author Topic: Burgertime-from Rare to Well Done (Read 44404 times)

rikitiki · « **on:** May 07, 2007, 10:32:18 am »

This crappy

conversion I picked up looked familar
the price was right and needed a new project.

Jeff AMN · « **Reply #1 on:** May 07, 2007, 10:45:25 am »

Wow, it's going to take a lot of elbow grease...but this is one of those cabs that is DEFINITELY worth the effort. Burgertime is a very attractive cabinet. Just make sure that the sideart is easily visible when you're done. Don't sandwich it between two cabs.

theCoder · « **Reply #2 on:** May 07, 2007, 10:56:51 am »

Are you going to restore it, or Mame it?

horseboy · « **Reply #3 on:** May 07, 2007, 12:48:32 pm »

He will be restoring it I am sure. He is the guy behind thisoldgame.com. He will be selling the Burgertime stencils that he uses to fix this badboy up. If it comes out nice, which I think it will, he definitely has a customer in me.

rikitiki · « **Reply #4 on:** May 07, 2007, 01:08:51 pm »

Yes full on Arcade restoration. This wont be your typical restore /build blog
most of the reproductions I'll produce for this restartion will be avalibal at
www.ThisOldGame.com
I needed something with a challenge. and this was just the meal to fill the bill.
was such a nice piece orginally-Lets paint it Black and convert it!

I'll be showing alot of screenprinting process in the restoration
as well as all the stenciling work from the cut to the applications.
Hoping to shed a little more light on the mysterys that is Screenprinting

Gutted the cabinet completly
now for the stripping...

rikitiki · « **Reply #5 on:** May 07, 2007, 01:11:20 pm »

No saving this as-is so the artwork has been redrawn, sized, and vectorized.
Then film positives are made for each color to be printed. the first color in this case will be white. Pic showing the film postive aligment on where it will be placed and screened
on a vinyl overlay

rikitiki · « **Reply #6 on:** May 07, 2007, 01:16:49 pm »

The image is set the screen is place and the white is ready for printing.

rikitiki · « **Reply #7 on:** May 07, 2007, 01:22:03 pm »

each indiviaual color is alignd and printed one at a time after the previous color has been dryed, new screens made for the next color, red
and the same is done for the orange.

rikitiki · « **Reply #8 on:** May 07, 2007, 01:26:13 pm »

Each color printed is also slightly enlarged or outlined to provide "Trap"
the final color usally Black that holds all the detail
should hide all the points where the colors overlap

FYI: If youve ever noticed original or even NOS parts sometimes have colors slightly off in alignment from the black this is from restration betweeen color prints and or not allowing enough of "trap" to be hidden behind.

rikitiki · « **Reply #9 on:** May 07, 2007, 01:28:07 pm »

and finally the moment of truth
months of work boil down to this critical moment
the final color. checking the wind resistance...
planet aligment...take a deep breath...

Level42 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 07, 2007, 01:45:51 pm »

Quote from: horseboy on May 07, 2007, 12:48:32 pm

He will be restoring it I am sure. He is the guy behind thisoldgame.com. He will be selling the Burgertime stencils that he uses to fix this badboy up. If it comes out nice, which I think it will, he definitely has a customer in me.

Yep, and I can tell you now that the quality will be excellent. Check out how his Galaxian CPO turned out at:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=62784.120

Aurich · « **Reply #11 on:** May 07, 2007, 02:48:04 pm »

Sweet. Great game, great cab, and great breakdown of the screen-printing process. Can't wait to see the final beast.

rikitiki · « **Reply #12 on:** May 08, 2007, 09:49:54 am »

Quote from: theCoder on May 07, 2007, 10:56:51 am

Are you going to restore it, or Mame it?

This poor thing has been through enough abuse.

rikitiki · « **Reply #13 on:** May 08, 2007, 09:53:48 am »

Finished product
Next up...The Install!

theCoder · « **Reply #14 on:** May 08, 2007, 10:04:14 am »

Quote from: rikitiki on May 08, 2007, 09:53:48 am

Finished product
Next up...The Install!

That looks awesome. That is a very nice skill to have. I take it it is easier to print to vinyl then apply, than to register/print straight to the cab? I'm coming up on installing some side art on my driving cab, and am looking forward to learning from your description / tricks of the trade when it comes to the installation.

javeryh · « **Reply #15 on:** May 08, 2007, 10:47:17 am »

Quote from: rikitiki on May 08, 2007, 09:53:48 am

Finished product
Next up...The Install!

Amazing work.

rikitiki · « **Reply #16 on:** May 08, 2007, 01:39:18 pm »

Yes I couldve screened it directly to the cabinet
but felt there would be others in need of the vinyl
overlays which Ive got for sale www.ThisOldGame.com
the same will be for the stencils and CPOs as well
Next I will be showing some tips and tricks of the trade on the installtion
So you dont end up with something like this guy did

melarky · « **Reply #17 on:** May 08, 2007, 01:54:27 pm »

Quote from: rikitiki on May 08, 2007, 01:39:18 pm

Yes I couldve screened it directly to the cabinet
but felt there would be others in need of the vinyl
overlays which Ive got for sale www.ThisOldGame.com
the same will be for the stencils and CPOs as well
Next I will be showing some tips and tricks of the trade on the installtion
So you dont end up with something like this guy did

Ha, that cab looks "noice".

melarky · « **Reply #18 on:** May 08, 2007, 01:56:21 pm »

I'm interested in this process, if you were to do it right on the cab, would the process be different? Would you use different paint/ink (not sure what you use now). Does the surface you are screen printing have to be prepped in some way? Does it matter if it's super smooth, or can it be slightly textured (like a finish that is rolled on with a foam roller, it's not really really bad, but it's not sprayed on smooth either).

rikitiki · « **Reply #19 on:** May 08, 2007, 03:53:32 pm »

not a whole lot of differerance. the screen lays and secures to the cabinet surface
inks would be diferent
if its a painted wood surface-Enamel screen ink (a smooth painted surface is best)
otherwise the ink when screened will tend to leak out and the edges wont be as sharp.
some cabinets had vinyl overlays. Ataris, Galaxian, etc. those would take
a vinyl solvent ink to screen on top of that

My next project- Pacman will have this process of screening directly to the Cabinet.
which Ill post those steps as well when I get that project rolling

Level42 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 08, 2007, 04:38:46 pm »

Hey Rich,

I love Burgertime and will follow this thread closely !

IMHO silk screening will beat inkjet printing anytime on this kind of work. The only time when I'd use (buy) inkjet is for a "one off" marquee.

Rich, small "reminder".....(we already mailed about this):
Since you are also making the metal CPO's for Space Invaders etc. would it also be possible to make the midway metal Coin door plates ?
And while we're at it: My dear Galaxian is also missing the manufacturer's plate on the back (Namco/Bally). It's very simple "B/W" and also on metal

I mean this one:

SodaPopinksi · « **Reply #21 on:** May 08, 2007, 05:59:35 pm »

I honestly try to stay away from this game. It actually makes me hungry for a burger and french fries every time I play it. Not that that's a bad thing I guess, I usually make my own instead of getting fast food. But nice cabinet!!

melarky · « **Reply #22 on:** May 08, 2007, 06:17:28 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on May 08, 2007, 04:38:46 pm

Hey Rich,

I love Burgertime and will follow this thread closely !

IMHO silk screening will beat inkjet printing anytime on this kind of work. The only time when I'd use (buy) inkjet is for a "one off" marquee.

Rich, small "reminder".....(we already mailed about this):
Since you are also making the metal CPO's for Space Invaders etc. would it also be possible to make the midway metal Coin door plates ?
And while we're at it: My dear Galaxian is also missing the manufacturer's plate on the back (Namco/Bally). It's very simple "B/W" and also on metal

I mean this one:

I saw this tutorial on copper plating and etching altoid tins:

http://steampunkworkshop.com/altoid-etch.shtml

Could be used to make a cool little plate (ditch the copper plating part). I'm sure it applies to more than just altoid tins too...

Level42 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 09, 2007, 03:27:35 am »

Interesting, but I'm pretty sure the original was simply silk-screen printed just like the Space Invaders CPO's on the metal. Since it's tiny and only requires one color (black), it should be "a breeze" to make (for guys that can do silk-screen printing, like Rich).

SirPeale · « **Reply #24 on:** May 09, 2007, 09:36:14 am »

Quote from: Level42 on May 09, 2007, 03:27:35 am

Interesting, but I'm pretty sure the original was simply silk-screen printed just like the Space Invaders CPO's on the metal. Since it's tiny and only requires one color (black), it should be "a breeze" to make (for guys that can do silk-screen printing, like Rich).

I think it's anodized aluminum. My reason for this belief is that it doesn't come off with paint remover. If it were just paint it would slough right off.

rikitiki · « **Reply #25 on:** May 09, 2007, 10:41:55 am »

Im on it!
I use anodized aluminum and enamel baked inks for the Space Invaders and Gorf Cpos and have lots of smaller drop pieces that would be perfect for these plates
easy 1 color print will probably need a similar one for this BT project as it was missing and my Pacman was painted over

Level42 · « **Reply #26 on:** May 10, 2007, 05:31:13 pm »

Great to hear Rich !!!

rikitiki · « **Reply #27 on:** May 14, 2007, 03:46:50 pm »

ok the cabiet front is sanded, filled and ready for install.

rikitiki · « **Reply #28 on:** May 14, 2007, 03:55:31 pm »

These steps work for just about any and all front or side vinyl art applications
LIst of things Needed
1-Patience
2-Naptha (great multi-purpose cleaner removes oils, old adhesives, goo, etc.dosnt leave a residue and evaporates fast))
3-A 50/50 mix of water and Alcohol (the rubbing kind not the drinking kind) with a squit of hand soap
DONT USE WINDEX!-windex or other cleaners that contain amonia are bad.

4-squeegee (I provide these with all my art @ thisoldgame.com)
Now lets get started...

rikitiki · « **Reply #29 on:** May 15, 2007, 11:22:06 am »

when ever possible lay the cabinet down gravity works wonders
This kickplate art is overzed about a 1/4" all the way around which will make for a better fit when finsihed.
-lay the art face down and remove the backing.
-spray the adhesive side with e 50/50 mix
-Flip decal over and move it into posistion

rikitiki · « **Reply #30 on:** May 15, 2007, 11:33:53 am »

-using the squueggee press and push excess water and air out
-trim out coindor with an exacto (dosnt have to be perfect coin door fram will cover it up
-trim sides use a NEW blade here you want a nice clean cut the blade tip will fall right into the corner and act as a cutting guide.
-again using the squeeege press decal on the edge sides just trimmed
pushing any remaing excess water out.
-next the hardest step of all-WAITING... untill dry

melarky · « **Reply #31 on:** May 15, 2007, 01:30:58 pm »

I'm loving your details installation guide, keep it coming! Nice to hear an experts take on it.

rikitiki · « **Reply #32 on:** May 25, 2007, 09:56:55 am »

Thanks, Once the decal is dry, you can peel off the premask it can be srayed with your 50/50 mix to make it a little easier you dont want to lift the decal creating air bubbles and other problems. and if all goes well you end up with something like this.
Will add the coin door back once its been reworked

rikitiki · « **Reply #33 on:** May 25, 2007, 10:00:27 am »

Chapter 2: SIDE ART STENCILING 101
Unforntunaly the side art was unsaveable.

rikitiki · « **Reply #34 on:** May 25, 2007, 11:09:24 am »

Sanded down and ready fro prime and paint
Match color to a spot behind the MFG plate on Back of the cab underneath was the orginal Orange "mustard" color that didnt get painted over

Matched to an enamel Satin Finsh-Behr "Yam" 290B-7 (D)

leapinlew · « **Reply #35 on:** May 28, 2007, 01:04:32 pm »

Quote from: rikitiki on May 25, 2007, 11:09:24 am

Sanded down

The way you say it - it sounds easy...

This was one of the more demanding/patience required jobs that I did with any of my cabs. Good work!

bfauska · « **Reply #36 on:** May 28, 2007, 03:07:15 pm »

I hope for the sake of your arms that the sander you used wears a belt. I've had to remove the finish from a panel about that size before and while it took a gentle touch with the belt sander, I couldn't imagine doing it with just a random orbit or other palm sander. The kick panel art looks great, I can't wait to see the sides. I probably don't have any use for the screening info, but I admire anybody who can so clearly share a process with others so that they may sometime be able to do it themselves. Thank you, and keep up the great work.

audiomidiman · « **Reply #37 on:** May 29, 2007, 11:01:11 am »

Quote from: Level42 on May 08, 2007, 04:38:46 pm

Hey Rich,

I love Burgertime and will follow this thread closely !

IMHO silk screening will beat inkjet printing anytime on this kind of work. The only time when I'd use (buy) inkjet is for a "one off" marquee.

Rich, small "reminder".....(we already mailed about this):
Since you are also making the metal CPO's for Space Invaders etc. would it also be possible to make the midway metal Coin door plates ?
And while we're at it: My dear Galaxian is also missing the manufacturer's plate on the back (Namco/Bally). It's very simple "B/W" and also on metal

I mean this one:

I believe you looking for the coin door plates? If so, arcadeshop carries about 2-3 different Midway coin door plates.

http://arcadeshop.com/pics/midway-logo-plate1.jpg
http://arcadeshop.com/pics/midway-logo-plate.jpg
http://arcadeshop.com/pics/midway-logo-plate3.jpg

The quality is very nice. Rich can make them I'm sure, but they are already available.

Bill

horseboy · « **Reply #38 on:** May 30, 2007, 08:04:49 am »

Quote from: audiomidiman on May 29, 2007, 11:01:11 am

Quote from: Level42 on May 08, 2007, 04:38:46 pm
Hey Rich,

I love Burgertime and will follow this thread closely !

IMHO silk screening will beat inkjet printing anytime on this kind of work. The only time when I'd use (buy) inkjet is for a "one off" marquee.

Rich, small "reminder".....(we already mailed about this):
Since you are also making the metal CPO's for Space Invaders etc. would it also be possible to make the midway metal Coin door plates ?
And while we're at it: My dear Galaxian is also missing the manufacturer's plate on the back (Namco/Bally). It's very simple "B/W" and also on metal

I mean this one:

I believe you looking for the coin door plates? If so, arcadeshop carries about 2-3 different Midway coin door plates.

http://arcadeshop.com/pics/midway-logo-plate1.jpg
http://arcadeshop.com/pics/midway-logo-plate.jpg
http://arcadeshop.com/pics/midway-logo-plate3.jpg

The quality is very nice. Rich can make them I'm sure, but they are already available.

Bill

Nope. The plate he is looking for is the Manufacturer ID plate that goes on the back of the cab.

rikitiki · « **Reply #39 on:** May 30, 2007, 01:23:35 pm »

Quote from: bfauska on May 28, 2007, 03:07:15 pm

I hope for the sake of your arms that the sander you used wears a belt. I've had to remove the finish from a panel about that size before and while it took a gentle touch with the belt sander, I couldn't imagine doing it with just a random orbit or other palm sander. The kick panel art looks great, I can't wait to see the sides. I probably don't have any use for the screening info, but I admire anybody who can so clearly share a process with others so that they may sometime be able to do it themselves. Thank you, and keep up the great work.

Thanks much hard work is true and after the bulk of hard sanding its all in the hand.
I thought I mainly put the screening up there just to show how much differet it really is over inkjets, you be suprized how many people, just dont get it. and Hope some will learned a littitle somethin along da way.


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