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Yet another Tempest - Done!
ChadTower:
Tempest definitely needs a smoked glass. Be careful how dark you go, though, as vector monitors show up much better through smoked glass than a raster showing an emulated vector image. Keep it fairly light.
rockin_rick:
That's looking good. I checked out your pics on your webpage, too. Thanks for taking the time to post this info!
To move the monitor forward (from your original location), did you just mount the new monitor mounting board to the front of the original mounting board rather than the rear?
Could you post some more pics of how the monitor mounted to the board (either here or to your webpage)?
Could you post pics of your homemade chassis-to-tube brackets?
Do you think that you could reposition the chassis relative to the tube to get it to fit in the cab more? Does the neck board stick out?
How close is the front of the monitor glass to the back of the bezel glass (that you don't have yet)? Could you bring it forward more? What if you had the monitor glass touching the bezel glass?
How deep is your monitor? You probably can't measure it now, but...
from the front of the glass to the back of the neckboard?
front of glass to back of chassis?
If not measureable, how bout from the back of the new mounting board to those...
What is the model and make of your monitor? (curious to what the advertised depth is...)
--- Quote from: Paladin on April 15, 2007, 08:33:58 pm ---Top of the mounting board to back is 12", bottom to back is 17". That's measuring from the back of the board, not including the board. The board is 3/4" thick.
--- End quote ---
Are these dimensions from the original monitor mounting board? Are they measurements horizontally back (aka perpendicular to the back panel) or are they perpendicular from the monitor mounting board?
--- Quote from: ChadTower on April 19, 2007, 09:24:37 am ---Tempest definitely needs a smoked glass. Be careful how dark you go, though, as vector monitors show up much better through smoked glass than a raster showing an emulated vector image. Keep it fairly light.
--- End quote ---
I'm curious now... I got a couple pieces of midway (galaga type) smoked plexi in storage that I'll dig out and try out in front of my monitor and see how much it 'dims' the 'vectors'. I'll try to get to that tonight and post pics if you'd like.
Thanks,
Rick
Paladin:
Wow, a lot of questions there. I'll try to answer them, let me know if I miss something.
The monitor is a 19" Viewsonic PF790 manufactured in 2000. I removed the monitor from the case and the gray metal that's holding the chassis was already there. I only had to make 2 small brackets to attach the chassis assembly to two of the mounting brackets on the tube.
My first attempt was mounting the monitor board behind the original Tempest mounting board, then I moved it to the front. All this did was move the monitor 3/4" closer to the glass - and make it a lot easier to get in/out of the cab.
I could move the monitor 2 more inches forward, then it would be just about touching the glass. This would get the monitor real close to fitting with the back door on. What sticks out the most is the chassis, not the neckboard. If I wanted to take the time to extend all the chassis wires I could mount the chassis so the back door would fit, but I'm not comfortable messing with monitors any more than necessary.
The plywood mounting panel I'm using is only 1/2 inch thick. If I used thicker wood it would have the effect of bringing the monitor closer to the glass. I could also make some spacers to put between the Tempest and the monitor board if I wanted to make it move forward. I'll have to think about whether to try that once I run it again, although it would mean adjusting the bezel I just made.
The decased monitor is 16 and 1/2 inches from front of the monitor glass to the end of the neckboard, 17 and 1/2 from front of monitor glass to back of chassis.
I've got a piece of tinted plexi from a Midway cocktail cabinet, I think I'll put it in front of the monitor next time I test it to see how it looks.
To mount the monitor onto the wood, I removed the monitor from the plastic case then laid it on a piece of cardboard that was larger than the monitor. I drew an outline around the tube on the cardboard, then cut it out. I then transfered that to the wood, then cut it out. It took several small adjustments to get the monitor to fit correctly.
Most all monitors have small tabs at the corners that are used to attach them to the plastic case, just like arcade monitors use corner tabs to mount the tube to the metal frame. You have to make your tube opening just large enough for the tube to fit through, as well as leave enough material to drill holes alligned with the mounting tabs.
The first picture shows one of the bottom mounting tabs that has a bolt running through it and the wood. The second picture shows the small metal bracket I made that lines up with another mounting tab, and holds the chassis in its original position.
rockin_rick:
Thanks for all your info, it helps a lot. Sorry for the long list, I thought I'd just get it all out at once, rather than a bunch of back and forth postings...
[guiltily asking]Since you said to let you know if you missed one, I would be interested in knowing....[/guiltily asking]
--- Quote from: rockin_rick on April 19, 2007, 06:11:07 pm ---
--- Quote from: Paladin on April 15, 2007, 08:33:58 pm ---Top of the mounting board to back is 12", bottom to back is 17". That's measuring from the back of the board, not including the board. The board is 3/4" thick.
--- End quote ---
Are these dimensions from the original monitor mounting board? Are they measurements horizontally back (aka perpendicular to the back panel) or are they perpendicular from the monitor mounting board?
Thanks,
Rick
--- End quote ---
Thanks for taking the time to post your progress with this project!
Rick
rockin_rick:
Any progress on this?
Rick
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