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Can we connect happ P360 with regular 4/8 joystick???
superbigjay:
All right MonMotha,
I'll use that schematic when will come the time to wire my CP for the uroMAMEstyx.
Thanks for the info
Jay
destructor:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=3811
I don;t know if this connect P360 with LS30, but if yes then I don't see any diodes.
MonMotha:
Like I said, it'll almost certainly work without them, but it's not exactly a good idea. If you decide to save yourself the 10 cents in diodes and not install them, that's your choice, but do not complain when (and this may never happen, but then again it also may) things break.
When the P360 is at "idle" (stick in the middle), it has all 4 lines driven "high". Effectively, this means that it either has a BJT or FET (probably a FET) driven into the non-linear region connecting the 5V rail to the signal line in question. If you then close a microswitch to ground, you are effectively connecting the 5V rail to ground through a FET. Depending on the "on" resistance of the FET, various things will happen ranging from things getting toasty, to the FET getting so hot it fails permanently, overcurrent protection kicking in, etc.
Now, all that assumes that the P360 has push-pull outputs. From what others have told me, this is in fact the case. If the P360 has open-drain/open-collector outputs, you don't have to worry about any of this since there is no high-side driver, only low. That is, it only pulls the line low (like a microswitch contacting ground). Again, from what I've been told, this is not how the P360s are set up.
In a nutshell, it's likely to work fine, at least for a while, without any special considerations, especially if you don't use the microswitch based stick much. However, due to various reasons, things could go wrong either over time or immediately. 10 cents worth of diodes and 1-10 minutes worth of your time (depending on how good you are with a soldering iron, crimper, whatever you're using) will prevent those problems. You pick the route.
Havok:
With today's encoder options, do you really need to double up the inputs?
superbigjay:
--- Quote from: MonMotha on April 25, 2007, 09:29:56 am ---When the P360 is at "idle" (stick in the middle), it has all 4 lines driven "high".
--- End quote ---
I agree with you MonMotha. Even if it's a "low power" 5V (like a pull up or HiZ), trying to ground it by connecting it directly to a microswitch, it may eventually burn the P360's driver.
Since the diodes are widely available and cheap, I'll add them to the P360 outputs.
Also, I have a LEDWIZ in my project, so adding 4 diodes will not be a big overhead on the soldering time (1 resistor per LED)...
--- Quote from: Havok on April 25, 2007, 04:57:38 pm ---With today's encoder options, do you really need to double up the inputs?
--- End quote ---
Havok,
for my project, I have a 2 player CP.
4: P1 joystick
6: P1 action buttons
1: P1 start
1: P1 coin
4: P2 joystick
6: P2 action buttons
1: P2 start
1: P2 coin
4: pinball
4: admin
-----------------------------
for a total of 32 direct connections
I see 2 potential problems of using separate entries on the encode. They're not a show stopper but...
1. no more direct entry
I'm using a Keywiz (32 direct + 24 shifted)
If I want to use separate entries for the dedicated 4-way,
I would have to move all admin function to shift keys.
This is not so bad, except maybe for the pause button?
(Or, I can use the diode fix or groovy adaptor to activate the shifted function with a single button)
2. need to configure mame for 4-way games??
I guess there's a way to configure the control for each game in mame.
This again, is not so bad. You just have to configure the 4-way games
to use the second set of entries for P1 joystick.
But it's probably longer than just add the diode...
Anyways, thanks Havok and Monmotha for the feedback, you've been really helpful :cheers:
Jay